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Thank you! My cover is really rusty so I didn’t put it back on. It’s okay to drive the car without the cover. The canister might just get a little dirty quicker.

Correct, technically they're JIS.

In theory you could, but it'll be very difficult because you would have to adjust the valves in the lower intake manifold to be in a perfected fixed position. Just enough to where it doesn't cut off air flow or let too much into the engine. Even if it that was possible the light would be present still nonetheless. I'll have to dig into this idea. Thank you.

P0456 is a small evap leak. There's a technical service bulletin (TSB) for most INFINITIs. Google search "NHTSA MC-10152991-9999" it'll have a step by step on how to remedy the issue. Edit: Wording

Originally my issue was P0455, as shown in my other video. The replacement had a lower mileage so I just ended up replacing the whole thing.

I believe they're M6. Not sure of the thread pitch though, maybe 1.25.

Yes it should be the same. The entire lineup of the EX body uses the same subwoofer.

Thank you for the feedback and congrats on the car! For the 370GT/EX37/QX50 (not sure where you are in the world). - The copper crush washers (11026-JA00A) are the same on the engine and transmission drain plugs. - The front and rear differential uses the same aluminum washers (11026-4N200) for both the fill and drain plug. -The transfer case also uses the same aluminum washers (11026-1CA0A) for the fill and drain plug, HOWEVER, the transfer case washers do differ from the differential washers. - (Part numbers are from a USA market vehicle, so I'm unsure if its the same for international vehicles) Hope this answers some questions for you. Thank you!

Lamentablemente no existe una versión de posventa para esta pieza. El único lugar donde puede encontrarlos es en los depósitos de chatarra locales o esperar y ver si aparece en eBay.

Thank you! I'm glad this video was able to help!

Thank you! These are great vehicles, but are prone to rust especially when expedited by salt on the road, but these drivetrain are bulletproof with regular maintenance. I hope you guys enjoy your EX35 and also for better health for you also.

I guess it would be an optional step, but it was to give myself and the camera better view of the broken stud.

Great tip! Honestly I'm not sure why a 1/4" drive never crossed my mind. If I ever half to tackle the EVAP canister again I'll make sure to try that!

In theory it should be the same process. A lot of the rear suspension design is the same.

I totally understand. If I was to redo it, I'd probably paint it next time lol

Thank you!!!

Yup! Well technically the shock is a little longer than the G35/37, but the most of the rear suspension is the same setup.

Look up 2x4 wood jackstands. You could build a few levels and then set them under each wheel. Of course I would set actual jack underneath too for extra security. I would set it the long rails underneath the car that runs parallel to one another. I hope this help.

Are you referring to the long skinny brace or the W shaped brace?

@@AwkhuardVQ the w brace Bolts up to the stay brace which Bolts up to the Subframe.

@@goodnessgaming8633 Ah gotcha, it's the ones on the corner. It's on the to do list for me.. The part that isn't bolted to the subframe is bolted to the chassis of the car. You'll have to repair that part of the chassis unfortunately (or that's how it looks like it to be on my EX35 at least).

@AwkhuardVQ I thought it was part of the chassis. Well shit more welding. 😒 anyways thanks man. Awesome content keep up the work, vq love ✌️

@@goodnessgaming8633 Np! Appreciate the love and godspeed.

0:05 I’m using 75w80 in this video. I did end up switching to 75w90 later though.

The service manual states "Apply Genuine Silicone RTV or equivalent" for the drain plug.

I always recommend getting an OEM over aftermarket even if its used. This part shares with most Nissans and INFINITIs before 2010. If there is a local picknpull or salvage yard near you can I'd say check there first, if not, then online is your best case. You could get an aftermarket one, but YMMV on those.

The part number for the hose is 18791-CD010. Follow the other EVAP lines and until it brings you above the subframe and there's a little black spout sticking out of the body. That's where it'll plug into.

I believe the size of the fitting is 5/8"

Technically you could replace your entire lower intake manifold to fix the issue as long as it has the actuator too. In theory, if there is too much carbon build up around the lower intake butterfly valves it could cause the valves to not open or close properly, but usually it's just the actuator that needs replacing.

The only way to get these now and days is pretty much call around or check your local salvage yards for them or keep your eye on eBay to see if one gets listed.

Unfortunately you can't get these from the dealership anymore. The only way to get these to either find them in a junk yard or keep an eye out on eBay from time to time. I see them come up maybe once or so a month.

Nothing really to be honest, but it did fix my rough idling issues since the OEM hoses were torn.

@@AwkhuardVQ thanks for sharing. When you say your OEM one was torn, was there any part was ripped off?

It was a PITA me too. I just had to keep trimming the hose down on both the small PCV inlet and the intake box side and then eventually it ended up falling into place.

@@AwkhuardVQ thanks for the update. Is it easy to uninstall when you clean throttle body?

@@Qkfltpdls777 Yes. I can remove and reinstall the hose without any issues. Just a couple seconds of finessing to get it back into place.

@@AwkhuardVQ i see. Wouldn’t the edge of the silicone air hose be ripped off when you try to reinstall them?..

Was a huge PITA for me to with the CZP silicone ones and I couldn’t get them to fit so I took them off. Going to just try and find used OEM ones tbh cuz these things are horrible.