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I actually did that the first time I summitted Helens. In my experience, the splitboard always end up being a faster round trip time also on Mt Hood, Mt Adams etc.

I dont do perfect, but I try to look back from each point of transition along the way up. It can be hard to piece together from memory moving fast on the way down. You can get a feel for where you'll have a tendency to want to follow the grade down the snow and note to avoid going down to far where you'll need to side hill and cross over to another field. Easy looking down from top but harder once you hit the trees. There are a couple big mounds to make sure you aim at the right side of and then near the end I make sure I find an actual track or trail so I don't overshoot the small parking area. Sometimes I count how many ridges I have to cross before just following one. I still make mistakes but have gotten more efficient over the years. ✌️

Depends on if you're more interested in rock climbing the craggy peaks or navigating the big glacier mountains. Without using any roping, mountains like South Sister, St Helens, and Adams are good for beginners. Mt Hood is a bit more techincal and calls for a second axe. Baker is typically easier but also calls for crevasse rescue tech. For rock climbing, Broken Top is a good option beyond mid June or so. It is a bit easier than 3FingJack>Thielsen>Washington. Mountains like Jefferson and North Sister can be more snow technical in the early season and are easier to do in summer time. I like mixed peaks like Eldorado or Glacier Peak, but it gets to where the distance and vert take more effort than the technical climbing portions. I'd give a different list for combining with splitboard, where the conditions you need are in tighter windows seasonally. Hope that makes sense lol.

Yes. There is a strap looped around a rock at the top of the pitch. I can't remember if it was already there or if I placed it, or if I used a rappel ring that day. The rappel device has 2 slots so you can pass both sides of the rope through and slide down the double rope. The strap stays there when you pull the rope down. This is typical and the next person who comes along may use it as well or collect it if it is damaged.

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Much appreciated!!

You skinning up or are you planning on booting it out?

Oh, it appears you are correct 😬 lol. Funny how somebody like me doesn't even know where they are sometimes... 4 years and you're the fist to point this out. Cheers!

Hahaha I totally agree. At least it can be somewhat motivating when it does occur.

Its a 60m rope

Good question, Tyrone. In my defense, I was accompanied by a woman and had forgotten my squirrel suit. Cheers!

If the timing worked out I'd be iinterested in climbing with yoh

@@summitspecials Wow nice. Someone said they might be into end of July. June-July best window of conditions in your opinion?

Agreed. Probably more due to inexperience and less than ideal axe combo. Wore myself out pretty quickly there.

60m rope

@@summitspecials 5.7 route

Thanks man. I've watched a lot of your vids too lol. Like your style. -Cheers!

@@summitspecials Thank you. I often just go around RUclips fishing for compliments. But really I was looking into teaching people fixed line stuff at thielsen. The fixed line anchor seems to have limitless possiblities. I see you got some splitboarding videos too thats great and I want to get into that.

Not sure I have the best answer lol. In this case, the formations were easy to identify and avoid. That crevasse on Eldorado is more of a collapsed edge against the ridge, not a deep, complex glacial crack. Where I crossed over was not steep so risk of slipping in was low and it was wide enough to stay several feet away from all edges. Could have tumbled down a few meters or so if I fell in. Would be able to climb out if uninjured. But I just did my reasearch and studied the snow condition as I went, so there were no surprises. In general, I think it is critical to understand the difference between early and late season. Research can tell you what areas are more likely to be unstable/active, and experience can tell you exactly where crevasses were years prior, but there is no way I'm stumbling around a crevasse area by myself when there is fresh snow coverage. A good start for crevasses being revealed is two weeks of full sun with no new snow. I do research and scouting missions to determine best times of year for each route to reduce risk as a solo, and climb early before sun weakens the snow. I also prefer putting myself between climbing groups if there are any. A lot of times I only step where others have been stepping. Still can't apply all precautions and generally take on more risk than a roped team. I've gotten used to going up to my own risk tolerance and knowing when to stop and turn around as soon as I hit that limit. Cheers!

Nice lol. Im from Alabama and haven't gotten around to figuring out how to hunt in oregon. You go there for deer or something else?

@@summitspecials I live on mount hood in sandy Oregon so I hunt deer and elk here every year. I can’t wait to leave this crappy state lol. I say that politically. I love everything else about this state. I’m 3 hours from high desert, 2-1/2 hours from the beach, 1/2 hour from mount hood, 2 hours from a rain forest plus the Columbia gorge is only 45 min away with endless waterfalls and hundreds of miles of hiking trails. Geographically it’s an amazing place and one of a kind. Western Oregon deer and elk (PCT and west) are over the counter, but the forest is stupid thick and steep. Eastern Oregon (PCT and east) are on a point system. They take some archery hunts 1 year to get, and then some rifle hunts taking 28 years to draw one tag. Seems to be on parr with most heavily hunted states specially with the predator releases and drops in tags available.

Pct is Pacific Crest Trail

Yep. Rope has to be doubled in order to be able to pull it down. So with my 60m rope I can do a 30m rappel. It is just looped through a sling. This means both ends of the rope have to go through the belay device. This does require leaving behind a sling or some sort of anchor. It alsi may be best to use belay loops. You'll typically come across slings and other equipment left behind by other climbers. I have more often used what is already there without having to leave my own. It is generally the case if somebody comes along and the sling is worn, sun faded, tattered, or otherwise damaged and unfit for use, they'll go ahead and remove the equipment (now trash). It is up to you to inspect and make sure a setup is safe to use. Cant just assume somebody knew what they were doing. Cheers!

Congrats man! Jeffy may be a good next challenge. The long, indirect approach makes it a good bit harder overall, but the technical portion is compareable in danger to Hood. Definitelt requires more navigation skill. If you go at it alone, know you may not see many other people out there and if you get in trouble it is unlikely anybody will come along to find you. It took me multiple failed attempts to land on that route. If you're like me, being alone on the East side is eerie and there will be an extra mental load that builds the further you go. Its a good place to learn about yourself lol. Good luck and think clearly out there. Cheers!

28 July 2020

Indeed, this route has a steeper, shorter approach than most of the big loan standing peaks around the PNW. The canyon you start out in is narrow and deep. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the comment! Cheers!

My rope was 60m and I used every bit of it. Could get away with 50m if thqts all you had. Cheers!

It was 29 August 2020. That is awesome I cant imagine getting into this kind of stuff at such a young age. Cheers!

Thanks, this is legit info

Thanks for the comment!🙏

My man! Switching from booting or touring skiis?

You are right that we were not fully protecting. Mainly roped up to cross the known crevasse on lower reid glacier and after that point we just kept moving. I agree fully with your criticism and I dont like being stuck under rope teams on hood for the sake reason. They go down together. Lead climber can help support weaker downhill climber, small time to react as he feels rope get loaded, but if he gets cherry bombed or falls himself, it is 2 dead instead of 1. Fun stuff!

Lol well your mom was busy

@@summitspecials I freaking love your sense of humor! Keep killing it!

Thanks for the comment!

Thanks! Better with goo company ✌️

April is generally early enough such that the crevasses are still largely covered by snow. This makes the snowfields look easier but doesn't remove the risk of falling through unstable snow. It is safest on a clear day when there are a lot of people out and a solid boot track to stay in. You are less likely to randomly fall through once the snow has melted down in later months, but then you have to deal with more crevasse navigation and crossing snow bridges. In either case, it is recommended to be roped up in a team to reduce risk of touching the void. Cheers!

My best advice on #2 is get it over with before you start lol. One reason I love longer spring days where I can generally wait to start after daylight. I always bring plenty of TP, and on days where I head out before 4am or so I will surely end up on the side of the trail. My goal is usually to work things out before breaking the treeline. Being stuck somewhere like Mt Hood above Timberline with people all around half the night and all morning is the worst lol. Grin and bare it! ;)

The harness is a Black Diamond Couloir. I prefer the use of the harness for leashing my snow axe to change hands easily and be able to arrest myself comfortably. This way my hands can be more free and I'm also already prepared to join a rope team in a pinch, clip onto a line, or be rescued or assist in rescues more easily in a fall scenario. It is a minimalist harness that takes up little space and although I wasn't carrying a rope that day I had some additional crevasse rescue and anchoring gear. Thanks for the comment!

Nice! Definitely worth starting out early just in case of thunder storms if you have a long drive. We got lucky the wind never kicked up on us, but were a bit worried at the time. I can imagine chicken out ridge would take a lot longer with snow cover. Hope you make it next time!

Man, I remember being desperate to get out of the steep and make it over that hump to see the other side and rest. The final pitch from there is a nice rewarding walk by comparison, lol. Thanks for the info. Cheers!

Nice! I feel lucky because I was just starting to lose purchase and struggle as it got icy in the hour glass, but then was able to kick in again once on the snowfield above it. I decided that day I would never do Leuthold with normal snowboard boots again. Cheers!

I am starting to think it is more humbling than rewarding, but we like going outside and need exercise anyway, right?

Thanks for the comment!