Видео

I doubt it, I ended up having to get the timing chain replaced. I was at ~130k miles I think when this happened. I can't remember. If you have a lot of miles on it, might want to bring it in for a check.

@seandonovan8460 it's sitting at 69,000 miles, that's not too much. There's also an oil leak, pretty sure because the oil life drops fast

@@simpassmfk hmmm yeah that doesn't seem like a lot at all. And unfortunately I traded in my civic for an outback so now I can't even run tests for ya. Not sure about your oiling problems but if oil is low a lot, maybe that accelerated the wear on your chain or something. Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck!

check your spring that is attached to the pedal in the very front

But he pulled them out carefully lol

How do you torque spec?

Torque plugs: 22Nm (16ft -lbs; 192 in-lbs) Torque bolts: 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs; 108 in-lbs)

Happy to help! I had the same problem, figured somebody else would too.

@MegaHollywood1971 that was an excellent explanation! Thank you so much for helping us all out!

2016 honda civic. 270000 km on mileages showing the check emission system. After scanning with obd it is showing code P0344 ( cam shaft & crankshaft ) sensor issue already replaced both. But this check emissions system sign is on and off still. What should i do?

@@kingofkingskok6733 I ended up having to replace the timing chain. Whether that is something you want to check yourself or not is up to you, but I ended up just going to the dealer.

Unfortunately no, what ended up happening is that my timing chain 'stretched'. It was worn and needed replacement. That was not something I was willing to tackle on my daily driver so I took it to the shop unfortunately. It was a rather pricey bill.

Glad I could help! Good luck!

I haven't had this issue. Does the car shut completely off? I'm thinking it's probably some loose wiring, but it could be some sensor throwing a weird signal.

Wich code You have?​@@seandonovan8460

Oh for sure! I was in the same spot as you so I figured I may as well make the video for someone like me! All problems are opportunities. Glad I could help!

No problem! Dealers are crazy right?! Good luck!

@@seandonovan8460 beyond crazy! I changed the spark plugs on my Civic in less than 20 minutes last week. Super easy. Thanks again for the video!

Lol what can I say, I just use the magic words! Thanks dude!

Hi! I don't recall getting those errors. I actually forgot to do a follow up to this video! Thanks for the reminder! I checked a LOT of things but eventually gave up and brought it to the dealer. What ended up being the problem was that the timing chain was worn / loose and it was throwing off my timing. No amount of electrical measurement and timing can fix a mechanical gear and chain. If you haven't figured out your issue yet, I suspect you also might have a timing chain problem. That might explain the limp mode. Basically the car is trying to protect itself from possible damage if your timing is way off. In any case, when I took mine it, it ran me about $3k for the whole timing chain replacement. I took a look at some other videos on RUclips and decided I didnt want to attempt that job on my daily driver. Good luck!

This is my son's car. Myself, I've owned five Hondas, starting with a new 1985 Prelude Si, Honda's first fuel injected vehicle. Once retired, Civic inherited the Si badge. I had zero problems with any of them. This 10th gen is such a disappointment. I believe transition from naturally aspirated port injection to turbo direct injection is the culprit. This is the first I've heard of early timing chain wear problems. I think my son's issue is fuel injectors which is on nationwide back order. His are due to arrive next week so hopefully the problem will be fixed. Other issues to worry about, AC compressor/condenser leaking tsb due to new refrigerant, oil dilution due to weak piston rings, blown head gasket due to head lifting, fuel pump recall, cam shaft whirring tsb, the list goes on. Unlike honda to not get these things right the first time. Perhaps 11th gen will be better.

@@irvnegrin2211 wow it sounds like you have been through the wringer. good luck with all of those things! I hope the trouble ends for you! For reference, I'm not sure I mentioned it, but this is a 2017 model and I was at about 140k miles when the chain needed replacing. I'm not sure how that stacks up to normal timing chain replacement times, but 140k seems like a lot to me. Maybe I just got lucky with this one.

@@seandonovan8460been dealing with this problem for over a year on my wife’s 2016 ex-t. Just figured out it’s probably the timing chain. Then I find this video. I guess it’s just a confirmation

don't cheap out

Still going strong! Haven't changed them since this video. I dont know what mileage I was at when I did the video but I'm nearing 140k or 150k now

@@seandonovan8460 Thats good to hear. I saw a lot of mixed reviews about NGK vs Autolite in terms of performance. After looking at the reviews, comments, and videos. I became skeptical. I want to put autolites in my ride, but my mechanic is telling me to use NGK. But I am not sure if its just a money grab.

@@gmshonourthemosthigh2930 eh. I think it depends what you want to do. I know a lot of people like to push civics hard and put on performance parts. If that's the case I think NGK is worth it. But I just drive it to and from work and they work just fine.

Ok beautiful. Yeah your right people do like to push civics hard and thats what I am doing. Yeah so I will go with NGK. Thanks for the video it was helpful.@@seandonovan8460

Hey Sonny, thanks for watching! The biggest issue I had was positioning the manifold during install. I didn't have a lot of tools (and tried to do it all myself) so when I slid it into place the gasket maker I used kind of squished out the wrong way. Tips for an easy install: 1. Use a hoist/crane to lower it in vertically, or, get some friends to help you lift it and drop it straight down instead of sliding it in. This will help the gasket seal right. My second go around my dad and brother helped me. We put in some bolts to some of the threaded holes in the manifold and hooked some chain on them. We ran a 2x4 through the chain too, and my dad and brother lifted from the ends of the wood while I positioned the thing on the engine. WAY easier. 2. If you use gasket in a tube like I did, use more than you think you need. You can clean up extra goop after you install it. 3. Replace the old manifold (made of cast iron) with an aluminum one. The old one weighs 80 lbs or so and is difficult to maneuver, but the aluminum one weighs maybe 20 lbs and should be much easier to position. Good luck!!

@@seandonovan8460 That's great advice... much appreciated

NOPE! It's been running strong! Need to tune the carb a bit, but I've been able to drive it around! Need to finish a bit more of it so I can properly break in the new piston rings!

Yep, you'll have to bolt it down so it doesnt move while running the engine, though you'll have to keep it a bit loose so you can adjust timing later on. Once the engine has started and is running, you'll have to use your timing light to set the timing. Clip the light onto the spark plug wire running to cylinder 1. Down on the crankshaft there is a harmonic balancer that should have little markings on it (degrees advanced or retarded) and there should be some sort of pointer or other marker down there that is stationary. When the engine is running, each time the spark plug in cylinder 1 fires, the timing light will strobe. The strobing effect allows you to see the harmonic balancer numbers that line up with the pointer. From there, you should be able to twist the distributor a bit to set the timing, then, lock in your timing by bolting down the distributor correctly.

Nope. Just make sure the engine isn't running / the car is off. I am not EXACTLY sure on what goes on inside a coil pack, but the sparks are computer controlled so if the car is off, there shouldn't be electricity to the plug.

Quit spreading bs lol they have anti seize that say "safe on spark plugs" have always used a dab on my plugs and never an issue. Some ppl just like to over do it and go to town on the torque and that's when issues occur.

@@yammyking22 I was speaking solely about NGK plugs which should be used on this Civic. I’m sure the plugs you use in your particular car could be bought anywhere and the addition of anti seize wouldn’t hurt them or the car you drive. Incidentally, how does one ‘go to town’ with a torque wrench? If properly calibrated and used correctly it will click or sound when proper torque is achieved.

@Doctor Wu ngk plugs are compatible with like 99% of cars today. If someone uses too much anti seize instead of just a dab like I referred to then yes you can easily overtorque it if not careful with a torque wrench. With that excess amount of anti seize the torque wrench won't be able to tell when to stop with the extra lubrication.

@ Doctor Wu I think the torque spec is 16lb ft

Don’t need anti seize for NGK’s!

Instead of criticizing, I thank him for the time helping us feel great about doing this