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Hey there, mate. I'm really sorry I haven't been updating lately. I have had a lot of things going on lately with family and new job. Keep going on your project, mate.

Thank you. I really appreciate that a lot of time and effort and learning dose go into it, but anyone could do it with the right attitude.

That is very good information. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you for the comment most appreciated

Thank you most appreciated

Thank you mate it is pretty good machine

Hey mate, dimensions of usable Z-497mm X560mm Y410mm. 900mm long rail on x and 750mm on y and z.

@@gingerninjaneering thanks Buddy... 🤛

Yep I put a presision bt30 test bar in and tested with a 0.01mm dial guage and wasn't any noticeable movement

Hi there thanks for the comment yes, could use that, but I used the Teflon liner from my mig gun because I was running stainless steel I think that may be more durable with steel running through it that the stuff go the 3d printer. I coils be wrong though

Thanks, mate, appreciated. Yeah, my main reason was to mill steel. I have a lot of projects I want to do, and steel is what I like to build my projects from. The spindle is really good, I would say. Though, if the budget allows, get a proper spindle servo to run it. The AC motor I have on it is okay, but a spindle servo would have more power through the whole speed range and higher speed capabilities.

I put the largest Teknic AC servo on my full size manual milling machine and it seems to work well. Probably cheaper alternatives if you know what you are doing. I'll put the same servo on the CNC machine I have going.

@mikeyh6104 o right, I bet that is really good what speed is that

It has a flat torque curve up to 1500rpm and then starts falling pretty quickly. Wouldn't be good if you want to run at any high speeds.

@mikeyh6104 o right, I see could that be to do with the control or is it just the motor itself

Yes, I do I can send them to you flick me an email

Thanks, mate. I appreciate that. You don't learn unless you fail, lol. The probe is definitely a game-changer for me. With the offsets and setups, it makes things a lot easier. I will have to look into the probing routine and see how to do that. It sounds better than my eyeballing method, lol.

@gingerninjaneering It might take a little fiddling with the toolseter height because these type of machines might not be as fast reacting to contact. Another advise is when you want to have control the z height you can set the offset on the bottom of the part and probe the surface you are placing it on.

@lunchman84 I did wonder about the speed; would probing slower help? That is a really good idea about probing the surface I'm putting the part on; that would be much more accurate.

@@gingerninjaneering yes, on my machine going down to below 30mm/min for the second hit makes it much more repeatable.

@lunchman84 I will try that. Then, I think it is at 60, so half should make a difference.

You make a good point. I guess it is only a BT30. Just the flute chipped at the end broke on the end mill, not at the shank, but it probably could have if the part had not come loose in the vice. I like the idea of running the tool in the air first; it seems like a logical way to test the tool path. It is also a good idea to test in a softer material as well. I will try that in the future. Thanks for taking the time to comment; it is most appreciated.

Lol, don't worry, it does the same for me too. I have the steel to make the covers. It is coming, don't worry.

Awesome, thank you.

Thanks, mate. appreciated

Thanks, mate. Your mill will work if I can build one anyone can build. Don't be deterred from the fun of building.

Hi there, I haven't yet. I'm still weighing up my options for the filling. Thank you. Most appreciated. I'm just building with what I have and can get.

@@gingerninjaneering I was inspired by your project, I've been looking for information on everything for weeks and I came across your videos, actually different from everyone else! Much more DIY than other projects I was thinking of filling my z with a mix of metal grit for sandblasting, fine sand and an adhesive resin for floors

@angelotrezza9256 That's awesome, mate. I appreciate that. I was thinking the same thing about filling. I have been researching epoxy granite as well as an option for filling. The machine does ring a bit when pushing it. Scrap steel is my favorite; I like the price of free.

Thank you. I got it off aliexpress you can either buy the spindle by itself or In a kit with the mounting and a spindle servo. TwoWin CNCTOOL Store a.aliexpress.com/_ms6ciAW. This is who I got the spindle through

@@gingerninjaneering Big thanks for information!

@Unl0gic no worries, I'm happy to help.

Hey there, cheers for the comment. It's a 100mm cylinder with a 5mm stroke it works well to compress the spindle at about 90psi and above.

Thanks, mate. Most appreciated

Thanks, mate. just shows what you can do with scrap. I have now upgraded to a bt30 atc spindle.

Its recomend or no sir?? I want build wirh angular bearing for my cnc, how to make the steel not come for rusty??​@@gingerninjaneering

@danielmeneses724 Thanks, mate. It worked, but I would recommend angular contact bearings. I've upgraded to a BT30 ATC; it's much better now.

@@botak333 definitely angular contact bearings. And I would say paint it or lots of wd40 to not get rust.

@@gingerninjaneering oke using both up and down or one only??

Hi there, I have moved to orca slicer and rooting the machine. I got a bit sick of the ads and things in creality print. I control everything through orca now. Mostly just one click printing except on smaller parts and only really adjusting temp. I haven put the micro Swiss hotend yet haven had any problems with the original. I did have to replace the tool head pcb because the stepper driver stopped turning. I have a video coming out soon on that but my wife just had a baby that we found out about in the emergency department 40 mins before she was born. I am working on filming but finding time to edit has been my problem. Beer with I will have more content on this machine. And the mill.

First Congratulations! I also use Orca and have rooted my machine. The convenience and print consistency is awesome so far.

@rambokd Thank you. It was a big surprise lol but cool. Yeah, I have found that myself works really well much easier having everything in one place.

o good stuff . it works well, but time will tell if the drive motor will keep going as long turning the bigger roll and all. cheers for taking the time to comment.

wow, that's a shame to hear. I have had nothing but perfect prints every time. I haven't rooted it or anything, just used straight out the box, and I have been more than happy with no issues. No tuning has been done on mine. I must have got lucky. in saying that I don't print little random toy models off the internet ever. most of the stuff I'm printing is for a use or a job and straight lines and things. I haven't really tested more intricate modles. although the mask I printed I was pretty impressed with.

lol it is very well used. I'm still in the crashing stage of learning to fly lol. I love fpv another hobby of mine. do you fly also.

@gingerninjaneering I do, haven't had much time for it recently but got a whole crew in Atlanta I fly with, and have ripped with Steele a few times

@TrippyRiddimKid now that is awesome that is a cool story to tell. What do you fly. Mine is the mr steel apex frame. We don't really have much in new zealand there are a few guys but it's not as big as the usa. I have a 10acrs lifestyle block so I have heaps of room to fly.

Tip from K1 Max owner. Don't use the retract to change filament. When changing filaments remove ptfe tube, cut your filament a little above the PTFE fitting, pull the old filament out of the back as normal, replace the ptfe tube over the cut old filament and reinsert it fully, load new filament up to the old cut one, then extrude 2 times while pushing the old filament through with the new filament. It will prevent clogs in the extruder.

@@crazeokc yeah sounds awesome compared to bambu

@@smin8308 it is, you have full access to klipper. So nice being able to control firmware and mod to fit your personal needs.

yeah, I love mine too. and correct, do a couple of extrudes after putting filamentsin. but I do use the retract, and then I click the lever over and give it a quick pill and it's like a cold pull and seems to pull the old filament out. but to each there own I guess. cheers for the comment.

@@gingerninjaneering I started doing it that way because of that little piece of filament at the end when removed. I had one break off into the extruder once so now I just do it this way. Just as fast and no chance for the little blob to end up in there.

thanks for the support mate. even if they sent for free I would say my own opinions. but yes I payed in full

hey there, thanks for the comment. agree everything can have problems. but some of the time, with anything cnc if something doesn't work, it's a user error.

@@gingerninjaneering of course! No arguments there. 👍

it is it dose exactly what I need it to do. might not move move dirt very well though lol

thanks, I appreciate that. that printer was my fist toe dip into cnc. I think this printer should be breaking the internet. it is an awesome printer. The size is bigger than Bambu, which was the big selling point for me, 300x300x300, and just as fast and cheaper. I would like to get a Bambu to compare, though. cheers for the comment

thank you most appreciated. it's been some work.

Indeed, mate. just keep working on it.

yeah, I have been thinking about filling with Sand and epoxy. I do seem like a good idea. I would like to dampen the z and the head stock.

yes, agreed. still learning. cheers for the comment

they are 750mm y and z and 900mm on the x they are 25mm size. frame width is about 600

50mm thick boiler plate for both the bace plate and table

you shouldn't need to if you set the acceleration and set the motors up in mach 4 correctly. you can also bypass the drivers and put the encoader signal right into the controller board if your controller can use that. cheers for the comment

@@gingerninjaneering dude, you're very far back on this topic. I suggest you delve into it a bit deeper. Tuning is far from settting the "right accel decel settings". Lol

@chronokoks what more do you need? The motor speeds up and slows down with the weight of the machine perfectly they don't need any tuning that I have noticed they throw my table around at speed and don't loose any position. If they did the machine would stop. What is the tuning doing dose it test resonance or something

@@gingerninjaneering Dude why the fuck are you even arguing with me? Stop arguing with me and LOOK AT RUclips VIDEOS ON THE TOPIC OF TUNING SERVOS. To properly tune a servo that does not have a sophisticated auto-tuning procedure is a pain and takes long time to learn. For proper tuning of a servo you first have to know the weight of the moving components (of the axis) to set the proper intertia ratio. That's just the first parameter to consider. There are like 20-40 others. Forget what you think you know, you know nothing. AGAIN LOOK AT THE RUclips VIDEOS, DON'T ARGUE WITH ME, ARGUE WITH THE GARBAGE YOU THINK YOU KNOW.

Proportional Gain (P): This determines how aggressively the servo responds to an error (the difference between the desired position and the actual position). Too high a P gain can cause overshooting and instability, while too low can lead to slow response. Integral Gain (I): This addresses steady-state errors (when the servo isn't quite reaching the desired position). Adjusting I gain helps eliminate these errors over time. Derivative Gain (D): This anticipates future errors by considering the rate of change in the error. It's used to dampen the system and prevent overshooting. this is the same as tuning acceleration and things in mach 4 you are just making sure that it speeds up and slows down at the right point and that the motors will not over or under shoot. just because they don't have software dosent mean they can't be tuned. this is a budget build. I didn't have the money to spend on over priced servos that came with a tuning software. that I can set up myself. and I got 3 motors and drives for the price of one

thank you most appreciated

thank you, it's firmed out pretty well. o awesome, that is a really cool project. how did you control the dc motor. you will love cnc.

thank you, o you have a love for tools aswell then lol

that's a good looking machine you have built

I had to undo the whole motor

thanks mate appreciated

hey there that's awesome you want to build a machine it's super fun. check out this video ruclips.net/video/2G0mxf7S8Z0/видео.html. This is the full video deep dive into the machine hopefully it will help. and if you look at the cnc4pc c82 control board I'm using and checkout use coupon code (Gingerninja) and you will get a discount off the board

thank you most appreciated

Thanks, mate, most appreciated.

yes, you are correct with the right skills it's easy to build. the alignment and getting surfaces parallel and perpendicular when the machine you are building is too big to fit on another machine well for a price that isn't more than the cost of the entire machine, lol. thank you most appreciated.

lol, most definitely I will be, but after I build the enclosure, it makes enough mess dry, lol. but will most definitely be on the cards. cheers for the comment.

Thanks mate its been a bit of work, lol. yes, I was very lucky to find the boiler plate and for free to makes it very stiff. I have been thinking about re making the z axis from epoxy resin. what did you use to make yours. that's cool I would like to get a broken cnc to do, but in New zealand, there isn't really a market for broken ones. cheers for your comment most appreciated

thank you most appreciated