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After looking at some teardown videos and pictures, I'm inclined to believe it will fit perfectly fine. I don't have one available so I can't confirm. The top shield looks to have an identical footprint which significantly helps keep it in place in such a small space.

Unfortunately the OEM Switch's power adapter isn't PD compliant nor does it supply the current needed for the GC; so it's not compatible with the USB C mods I produce. If only Nintendo supplied it with a nice PD adapter right out the gate - that'd have been nice.

Thank you - I appreciate it! Whenever you would decide to get and do the mod, I'm sure you'll love it ^ -^

Yup! in the Kunai loader menu, set the boot default to Swiss, and it should do just that. If you want Cubeboot SD-Card is the option to use if you have Cubeboot in the KUNAIGC folder. I believe you can change buttons or other behaviors by editing the boot.dol file in that same folder; haven't tried as of yet.

@ thanks for everything man. Your video helped me update my GC easily. It was a bit of a pain to find the .DOL files due to having to click through folders after unzipping. But overall, your video gave me confidence to update due to the unclear official Kunai GC’s manual. Is there a hot key to go back to Swiss menu after selecting a game? Thanks again.

You're welcome! I can absolutely relate to instructions not being as clear as they could or should be. I don't believe it currently supports in game reset to swiss at this time as is, but it can be set in swiss after activating it in global settings. I haven't tried it, but if the default boot is swiss then I would believe that in game reset from swiss to reboot the system would work the way you'd like it to 🤔

The flippy drive is a super cool looking mod! I would hope that they'll come with a spare flex cable or have decently affordable replacements. I'm a little concerned about the folding aspect to insert it where the disk drive goes, but won't know 'till I'd get one to try out lol

@@RenewedGamingRelics yea seems simple. ik they have have a sd extension that goes into where the led lights up for easy access. keep up with the videos i will keep watching.

Thanks!! :D

For the DC gem probably around 60 as a quick estimate - depends on total time actually worked on, whether there's anything else you might want done, and whether if modifications have already been done (last part is general for terms of service in case a prior mod may have damaged something and is in need of repair); this excludes return shipping. For a full estimate you can fill out the form at www.renewedgamingrelics.com/mod-repair-services, and check out our terms of conditions as well. I try to be as transparent as possible in estimates provided, and converse over if you'd have any questions or concerns. edit: corrected the site address with the w's

I actually released that exact mod earlier this month! I'm currently developing a USB C and TRRS AV mod for the NES with demo boards coming in a week or so to test out :3 ruclips.net/video/tciLgxuF968/видео.html

Thank you very much! Nice on the GC with the GBA adapter. I bet it'll be awesome once ya have everything set with PICO boot and have some good times gaming ahead 👌

@@RenewedGamingRelics Got it working, Wikid awesome! The Top shell is Ugly, I need to Sand it down and come up with a Cool Paint Job. Those TINY Pads on the MoBo have always scared me that I was going to burn thru, Anxiety be damned: I'm Too Old for that $4i7 Keep Kickin' aR$e

Heck yeah!!

Yup, it'll do the job just fine provided your USB PD adapter supports supplying 12V 3A. I run my N64 with the Retro Gem, and has worked very well with the Everdrive cart.

Good question! The point is to have another viable power option for people who want to power their N64s via USB C whether it's because they simply want to or want to ditch the large brick sticking out the back. There's also the possible event where someone gets an N64 and the power connector on the board is damaged. Some people may gravitate towards it because they don't want to use 3rd party power supply made just for the N64 where they may rather prefer to get a PD wall adapter that could power the console with this mod as well as charge their phone, tablet, or power some other thing. Whatever someones' reason may be, there's now another option available to them to choose from.

Good question! The WiiU's OEM power supply is rated for 15V 5A which totals to 75W. The USB C PD wall adapter would need to be able to supply that combination to meet OEM specs while the PD trigger will need to be able to do that power request. It's on the list of power mods to work on haha

Any plans to make a USB-C mod for the Wii U gamepad as well? It'd be nice to just grab my phone charger when I want to use it instead of the specific charge cable for it.

Yes, but not immediately. I'm currently working on one for the Famicom then the Sega Genesis M3. A few people have asked about it so I'll most likely do it after the last genesis one; at the least one for its large controller. I'd need to research suitable bricks and take measurements for the console itself to see its feasibility with what's available on the market. 5A is quite the hurdle.

@@RenewedGamingRelics No worries. Honestly I'd be fine using the stock PSU for the console itself if it ends up not being feasible to USB-C-ify, it's mainly the controller's charger I find inconvenient and would like to swap out if possible. If it's not feasible to mod the controller either for whatever reason, then perhaps the charging dock could be modded instead? If nothing else, I imagine that has a lot more room to work with lol

I've been doing a little research in between making new mods, and it looks like it would be feasible to power the WiiU via USB C; but the wall adapter needs to be PPS compliant - I'm looking more into this to best understand everything before having a unit to sacrifice. The controller itself should be much easier to tackle first. Maybe do two flavors, one for the docking station and one for the unit itself - maybe more for the unit itself so people won't need to worry about losing the docking station. There definitely is a nice amount of room to play around with in this space lol

Thanks and good question! Yes, you can. A little hard to get to the switches inside of a toy lol Must look pretty cool inside it though! You'd need a single pull double throw (SPDT) switch, you could easily reuse the switch on the board if you wanted to relocate it for sure. I'm not aware of push buttons that do multiple throws, but you could do that for the reset button. The single switch on the board breaks both the 12v and 3v lines at the same time hence SPDT. So whether you decide to reuse the switch or not, you can def run cables from the board to the new spot where you'd like the switch to be; likewise for the reset button.

@@RenewedGamingRelics Thanks for replying. Do you have instagram or somewhere I can send you pics if you'd like to see what I've done so far? I'll look into one of those switches and have a go. I've just started to do some soldering.

also, do you ship that n64 usb-c to australia?

You're welcome! While I don't have an Instagram as of yet, I do have a discord where you can post pics - links in the description. Unfortunately at this time, I do not sell or ship outside the US and Canada. I'm looking into tax compliance internationally; something that I wish was made easier to navigate so everyone can grasp it lol

How do you mean much higher? do you mean more voltage, current, or both? The mod is a simple PD trigger and requires the wall adapter to utilize the PD protocol to negotiate the voltage to be supplied - it's not a step up or down buck converter. The trigger for this mod requests 12V and is rated for 5A, but the PD wall adapter must be able to supply 12V; 3A is okay to use though I do list and recommend at least 3.25A per the OEM manufacturer and have previously measured consumption under 3 in a previous response to a power related question. The GC dol-001 and dol-101 do have a separate power distribution board, with the exception of a few later revisions, that breaks down the incoming 12V into lower voltage rails which would handle the protection aspect using fuses in case of spikes. Was the USB C wall adapter your friend was using utilized the PD protocol, and if so what were the power specs? From the system turn off after running for a few minutes, it leads me to think that the wall adapter doesn't support at least 3A and lead to a brown out.

I haven't seen any form of communications from anyone that have had issues with the mod via the shop, email, nor discord previously and do not see anything right now.

​@@RenewedGamingRelics Yeah honestly I'm not quite sure what happened with it. I think she used a power supply that was a usb-c laptop charger that had a range of outputs, most of them being higher in both V and amps. Specifically, the charger lists (on the label that's on the side of it): OUTPUT: 20.0V 3.25A 65.0W/15V 3A/9V 2A/5.0V 2.0A 10.0W She thought it would work as the amazon listing for the same charger said this in the description: OUTPUT: DC 5V/3A, 9V/3A, 12V/3A, 15V/3A, 20V/2.25A, 20V/3.25A She just assumed the listing description would be accurate to what the charger was and plugged it in before checking what the charger would actually say on it. As mentioned before it did work initially too which is why she figured there'd be nothing wrong with it. I can check it today since she's visiting this weekend with her Gamecube in hand to see what happens. Thanks for the info though. I'm more of a software modding kinda guy but I have installed some hardware mods in the past as per instructions online, so I wouldn't have known exactly what was going on with this particular mod, especially since it's power related - something I'm very new to when it comes to hardware. Are brownouts something that damages components on the hardware? Will I have to replace anything on her gamecube potentially? I'll reach out with more questions if I get any - thanks for the quick response!

You're welcome! Interesting. It may be that the charger itself doesn't utilize PD despite the ranges listed, or something to do with how it's set up internally with CC1 and CC2 pulldown resisters - similar to the the Nintendo switch charger; it has a range, but it isn't PD and has some internal set up to do what it does. Brown outs are worse than spikes because electronic components live in a limbo between on and off during that time, surges between states will damage them. After more thinking, it may very well be that the unit is receiving 5V 1A if the charger doesn't support PD; it's the default in the standard when triggers and the supply can't communicate accordingly. Can't tell without a multi-meter to measure voltage coming from the mod. If there would be anything to replace on the GC from brownout damage, it would probably be best seen initially when trying to use it to see what's failed one bit at a time - can't definitively say. Here's what I would do to troubleshoot as a start. Reinstall the OEM power connector and test the unit for about an hour or so with the OEM power supply to make sure the GC is working well. Next, Use a multimeter to check the voltage coming from the leads of the mod with the charger she got. If it's not 12V, then it's a PD issue. Otherwise if you get 12V, the trigger itself may be damaged in some way after testing and shipping - I back them with a 1yr warranty so if she needs a replacement, it's covered no problem. Hardware modding is pretty cool. Wish I had better coding skills to do software mods. Can't say I'm a little jealous of what ya do lol Soft mods are very interesting! Definitely feel free to reach out!

Good question! Yes, but not after the regulator. The PD module used prompts the PD wall adapter for 9v and that wouldn't be good for the board; less you use a non-PD adapter, but that's leave ya open to damage risk. Instead, you can solder it in parallel with the barrel jack and you're good to go.

Sadly not at this time. I'm looking into tax compliance regulations across different countries outside the US and Canada before selling and shipping. It's the biggest ask since the color selection.

@@RenewedGamingRelics all good

As long as the wall adapter supports PD as well as supply 12V 3A at a minimum, it will be fine. Higher voltage is fine because the PD protocol negotiates to be supplied 12V; higher aperage also good as the triggers I use are rated for 5A. Unfortunately wall adapters that don't support PD will result in a default 5V to be supplied per the standard DC voltage for USB devices regardless how much voltage or current it's rated for. In the case of the switch power brick, it itself does not support PD. Nintendo worked some magic for the adapter to know when it's connected to either the switch or the docking station for the voltages it supplies. When used against a PD trigger, it will only supply 5V max so you cannot use the switched brick. The switch adapter also isn't rated for the needed amperage so it's definitely not recommended. Edit: Great question btw!

You're right about the tip I'm using. The desoldering gun I have is the Hakko FR301-03/P. In addition to the tip it comes with, I have the 1.3mm N61-06 S-Type for long leads like those on the N64, 1.6mm N61-10 for thick leads, and the, and 3mm the N61-15 wide tip for wide flat leads. The one I used for this was the N61-15. I waited on getting it since I didn't think I'd need it since other ones did fine, but then some things got annoying lol Haven't had any issues with it or other tips in the months I've had it and found it to be a worthwhile investment for desoldering since I use it fairly often.

Excellent question! The .25A difference is within acceptable tolerance though slightly over 5%; I wouldn't tempt 10% or more in general. Normally, power supplies are designed with some headroom in mind so be able to handle the loads consumption safely so they're not overloaded by them. Going back to my personal modded GC, I attached one of my cables that measures power draw. My GC has KunaiGC as well as the Pluto2 mods on it as a frame of reference for others who haven't seen the other vid. On average, I measured an average of 20W total draw and peaked at 21W for a consumption of 1.75A at peak with mods during the measurements. Measurements were taken comparing having no controllers and no game loaded, loaded with 4 OEM controllers no game, and loaded with 4 controllers and a game. While I could stipulate that a 2A supply should suffice from my measurements, I wouldn't recommend it because it's far from listed factory specs and wouldn't want to risk anyone's stuff.

​@RenewedGamingRelics thank you so much for not only a quick response, but a pretty detailed one. This makes me feel a LOT better.

You're welcome! Glad I was able to help 👍

While I don't have any PAL units, it should be perfectly fine for them because you would need the USB C PD wall adapter to work in PAL regions; and from there it's simple DC voltage which the PD trigger in the mod handles with the adapter.

A second Question, where would it be delivered from if I were to order one because I'm interested P.S. Translated from Google because my English is not so Good.

No worries, all good. Right now I only ship within the US and Canada. However, I'm looking into what tax requirements I'd need to fulfill to sell and ship to other countries. I don't have an ETA when I'll have that done yet sorry :C

@@RenewedGamingRelics Ok, thanks for the Answer, i asked that because i am from Germany and i plan to Modify my GameCube.

You're welcome. It's been asked quite a bit for different places haha. Makes me happy people from different places want to give my stuff a try! I'll be sure to make an announcement when I ship to more places for sure.

Not at this time, but I do have one to be able to do design one and will be planning on making it happen. My initial idea is to have female power out connector from the main console to have it in parallel so people won't need to have 2 wall adapters nor use 2 cables from the same USB C adapter to keep things cleaner cable management wise.

Is there a way to do this without having to cut the shielding

​@@sayonara5699For w/e reason, the mobile apps didn't show this so I made a post, but the answer is No and Yes. I'll just put a shorter version here if that's alright. The current version requires the shield trimming because of the space it needs. To not require shield trimming, I would need to redesign the mod to reposition the 3.3v step down converter for the internal installation. I initially made an external version, but requires the port from the power supply which isn't ideal - maybe if I locate a vendor who sells the port alone, then I could consider making those as well. If people want a no-trim version, then I can definitely invest the time to do a redesign to give people different options! I just won't have an ETA when that'd happen at this point in time as I'm wrapping up the USB C mod for the Wii

@@RenewedGamingRelics sounds good bought some off Etsy to test out looks super cool man

Thank you so much - I hope you like them!

​@@RenewedGamingRelics just got them in the mail today, I dont have a desoldering gun so I just soldered them to the same points without removing the PSU connecter. Is that going to lead to any issues? If not feels like maybe having a dual power supply could be the way to go where you can route the USB C to take the wire through the outer shell fins while also retaining the ability to use the original power supply. Works perfectly my only complaint might be that there's no haptic feedback like a click or something when you connect the cable but I don't really care that much about it, other than that this is a really good mod!

If so, I'd love to get the name of the connector. I haven't been able to find it oddly enough. Wouldn't absolutely love to offer a simpler installation solution!

Yup, the trigger is PD for 12v and a buck rated for up to 3A converter set for 3.3v.

Thank you very much! That would be very nice for sure! With all the power mods I've made so far, it would improve the quality of life.