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thank you! i've come across many that are not oiled and they looked ok, that being said, these knives usually don't see much work. On their website it says they use maple, i'd suggest using some wood oil on it, the same ones you use for chopping boards. Whatever you do though, avoid oils that can go rancid

thank you! What I usually do is locate the existing factory angle and drop it a little for that extra slice. Though, I do prefer a lower angle, but based on the condition of the knife, i reckon the customer might not be too careful with it, and hence kept it at what i'd assume to be a good middle ground between cutting capability and durability. I used naniwa/chosera and diamond bonded stones (finer grit). The lower naniwa grits have no problem cutting through the 66hrc, and being a Cr carbide steel, it'd have no issue with the carbides either, diamonds are much more crucial for high vanadium steels as V carbides tend to be harder than ceramic stones. Ultimately, all stones should have no issue cutting the steel matrix.

@@The_Polished_Edge got ya, bc you felt like the customer weren't maybe familiar with Japanese knives and how fragile they can be, you went with an angle that might hold up better. In my experience people will still struggle with edges like that, but maybe it will help your customer, you get in to 62 63 with an angle that fine, 9-12, even the cutting board can cause minute chips if not used properly with turning the blade while in the board

@@docsspot hahaha yeah, at the time of that video, it might not have been a concious decision, but today, when i do knives for the customer, i would ask if they were planning on being harsh, and if not, inform them to be careful with it.

@@kianleechan5230 hi! It was so long ago I really can't remember, but they've also discontinued this model, not sure it can be acquired anymoee

@@felixa9705 man that was a long time ago, I'd guess either 80 or 120 grit, it's what I'd start with now if faced with the same knife 😁

Thank you! Cheers!

Can't blame you, it's sometimes pretty miserable 😂 I just got the T6, but in k490, it was the earlier batch. Haven't had a chance to head out and test it though

Thank you! I find the knives in this steel are really prone to chipping, and the blades already pretty thin, 16 DPS still slices really well without compromising too much on edge strength

@@The_Polished_Edge, if it's good enough for you, it's good enough for me. Got my first Miyabi three days ago, and have been worried that I wouldn't be able to hold a 9° angle when I needed to sharpen. Can definitely hold the 15 or 16.

@@danajoseph6705 my customer had no complaints and they do come back for the same treatment, so it must be working well for them. I did have another case on a different knife where, even at 15 DPS it wasn't cutting so we'll. It was an old blade that lost quite a bit of width, so I thinned the blade and the customer saw significant improvement in use.

Yeah and no more need for paper cutting tests 😂

I think i've seen some old swords with that kind of feature, i've also know people use fullers/blood grooves in blades to mimic the I beam effect and to reduce some weight, perhaps more essential for a longer blade that might have a bit too much flex and weight in it. though Parang's don't usually come with a flared flat top, at least not from the makers, a fuller in one might be pretty cool though.

Yessir 😊

Surprised you did not need something harder than SiC, say CBN or Diamond.@@The_Polished_Edge

​@@billmanning8806yeah I'm pretty grateful really. SiC's might cost more than AlO, but it's a lot cheaper than CBN or diamonds.

@@The_Polished_Edgewonder how ceramic would work on ceramic?

@@100BearPaw sic is harder than the alo the knife is made in which allows it to be shaped. If you used alo belts, it wouldnt work, and I've tried 😭

Thanks! It was the accudrive, the assembly of gears that lets you do micro adjustments. While it didn't affect sharpening, Jende sent me a replacement for it and it's rattle free now

Thank you! I'm glad your knives are back into service again ☺️☺️☺️

Thanks! I generally like to know what my knives can hold up to in the event I need to push them to the limit. I've been trying to find time to test the new T6, which I'm 99.99% sure will hold up to even more abuse, but alas, spare time is a rare commodity these days

Aesthetically I do agree, and for chopping implements, a more refined edge has been known to provide better performance and edge longevity

@@The_Polished_Edge really thats the first time i heard that

@@Tursilyano-ds2hg yep, with push cuts and chopping especially. Some experiments by myself and other knife sharpeners around the world have come to the same conclusion. With slicing and draw cut motions a slightly toothier edge would be better. Ultimately, the edge finishing type can be selected based on the task at hand.

@@Tursilyano-ds2hg ruclips.net/video/YerlYlMpm4I/видео.html&ab_channel=MichaelChristy

@@Tursilyano-ds2hg ruclips.net/video/GYgCVCXInSs/видео.html&ab_channel=Cedric%26AdaGearandOutdoors

Thank you 😊

It's a massive improvement over how much the Edge Pro Apex moved, I used to slide from one end of the table to the other end 🤣 That being said this was many years back and there are newer systems that are rock solid, the Jende Jigs being my go to

Hi! Thank you. Probably referring to sharpening and refining the edge to a mirror

thank you! It was certainly fun to work on, and I was grinning ear to ear after it was done 😄

pleasures mine bro! can't wait to see how it performs!

That's interesting. Most knives will have sticking, even those with granton edges. The only ones designed for no sticking are thicker single bevel blades like the deba or yanagiba. Polishing the sides of the blade should have little to no effect on how the cutting edge performs, unless whatever you're cutting touches the polished section, then perhaps there will be an effect. I'm keen to see the work you've done and the problems you've faced. Would you have a RUclips video about it?

@@The_Polished_Edge I uploaded a photo collage to the RUclips channel. Here the problem is in the thickness of the blade at the cutting edge. On miyabi 0.5mm on Yaxell 0.3mm When cutting, it does not cut, but colitises the product.

@@vladz377 you could try thinning the blade or just decreasing edge angle or both. I've sharpened both types of blades you mentioned and they both take on a good edge, miyabi's main difference is the steel they use. Colitising? I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. Wedging? I saw your video, perhaps a cutting demonstration of the issue would help

@@The_Polished_Edge Yes, you need to thin the blade on the miyabi. The sharpening angle is good there, 14 degrees per side. "Colitises" I mean splits like an ax

@@vladz377 ah yes, wedges, we're on the same page then. well, I hope you manage to make your miyabi a reliable user eventually. it's not a cheap knife, and it'd be a shame tostay dissatisfied with it.