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Home Depot Husky would’ve been better Actually that crack heads adjustable wrench would’ve been better

Easy work. Why video this? Sheep!

Cuz it's a 25mm wrench harbor freight and snap on only goes to 24😂

Why do you have a bedalized steering wheel cover

Thanks. It looks like I need a special bit not a regular Phillips.

Good stuff gotta do mine its broke dwn

Thanks! 🙏

This is too funny my name is also Jesse and I’m somewhat a mechanic 😅

The last two that I have replaced batteries in would never turn back on. :(

ZZZZZZZZZZ....its a socket ....

What size axle puller adapter do you have for your slide hammer? I have a slide hammer but need to buy that fork adapter for the cv but amazon has them listed by size and I'm unsure what size to buy.

Thanks for that... I was hoping I wasn't going to have to find a screwdriver to take those screws out!

Turns out it was the starter brand new starter the main hot wire stud was bent, causing it to ark off

Use copper terminals please

Thanks man

My rotors on my truck are worst then that right now 😂, gotta get around to it

When it goes faster need more brakes sooner. They think its like a kia driven normally.

Check your caliper and hardware

Some have a binder tape, around the flaslight body, that cannot be easily removed.

Just don’t send them your battery. They’ll say they can’t warranty it because of water damage. 🤦‍♂️

You have the ABS or brake line pulled tight as hell.

thanks for recording everything except the most difficult parts

Thanks so much. Whoddathunkitt?

What a pain waiting on bolts. I like that rack. I used that rack type for years doing alignments. Good job.

I can't take the axel nut off

What's kind of drill was that

Your video recording skills suck .can't even see what's going on...leave it to the pros lol this is not your lane

Lol my guy recorced everything but the removal of it 😂

This is the third or fourth video I've had to skip because of the poor procedures potentially damaging brake lines and sensor wires, or using the wrong tools.

Yikes! Look at your job again. You did not unbolt the ABS Sensor and by the middle of the video, when you pried the knuckle from the strut, you are stretching the ABS Sensor wire to it maximum potential. Every manual tells you to remove the ABS and Caliper first. This guy's car will have a failed ABS soon.

I'm in the middle of removing this, but it's because I need room to pull the alternator off. I've seen about three or four RUclips videos on both removing the outside by removing the strut bolts, or the bottom bracket bolts. Also, there are tools for this and for removing the CV axle from the transmission. Without the tools, I've seen the CV axle removed by prying, striking it out with a pry bar from the drivers side and even just by tying a strap around it and pulling it hard to pull it loose. I'm going to give it a try now, but I can get the tools under the loaner program up the street. Probably better to do it with the tools, instead of prying, hammering and striking it.

Hilarious!

Do u have to take the strut off the assembly or disconnect tie rod

Nice view

Is it the same way for the driver side?

how many teeth tripod bearing inner ford escape 2006 front cv

Liked to match subscribers

Now you need an alignment after lol

I replaced mine last June, passenger side outerboot already cracking. Gotta love aftermarket axles

this video isnt showing a thing dude

Appreciate this tutorial. Now the lights are not garbage. Good work!!

LITTLE ADVICE WHEN INSTALING THE STUD APPLY A LITTLE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE PART BEING PRESSED IN AXLE FLANGE. AND INSTALLED A STAINLESS STEEL WASHER WITH A LITTLE ANTI-SEIZE ON BOTH SIDE AND A LITTLE ON THE THREADS AND IT WILL SLIDE RIGHT IN WITH EASE. JUST A THOUGHT GOD BLESS AMERICA AND FOR ALL YOU GRUNTS (MARIN) SEMPER FI MAGA GOD BLESS.

YOU SHOULD UPLOAD MORE, LIKE ME.

Thanks I was wondering on how to do this

Lol nice edit