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Thanks Mark. I'm excited to get started on it. I appreciate your continued support my brother.

Right on! Glad you found the video helpful. Enjoy your project. I appreciate you watching and commenting

Awesome,I appreciate your enthusiasm. I'm sure excited about it. Thanks for following along.

If I had a Toyota 5.7 (or could find/ afford one) I'd use it in a minute. I've owned an 07 and a 15 Tundra and it's a great engine. Please donate one to the channel, if you have a spare. Thank you for watching and commenting it's much appreciated.

Thank you. Prayer is the most you can do for a brother. Now are you praying for the LS swap? Or my brain surgery recovery? Either way I much appreciate you.

@ Mainly your recovery from surgery, however I’ll be praying for a open door for a engine 😀

@breazy5567 , hahahaha thank you so much! Dr. said it should have killed me, and I only have minor damage. So grateful indeed. This swap should go easy, but I appreciate all the help I can get. Really appreciate you brother.

@ 😀❤️

@ I believe His purpose in you has not been complete yet because you would have been called home. I love watching your channel and I’ve been following along for a few years now. I used to have a 2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 and I loved to see your ideas and builds. Mine was green and I think you had a green one too I can’t remember.

Thanks Curtis. All back to normal. Who are you, again?? My sister in law?? Hahahahahahaha Love you brother!!

Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't claim it to be an engine knock diagnoses video. Simply a PSA to not ignore the oil light. Hope you figure out your problem, best of luck to you.

Did you have a question about an engine knock? I'd like to help if I can. Valve train knock/ tick is 2x faster than lower end knock. A slower knock is lower end. Use a long screw driver to listen, or a stethoscope. Put it on valve cover above each cylinder and listen for noises. On oil pan for crank noise. A whirl noise is normal, volume will be obviously louder in problem area. I know my video was disappointing to you but I still may be able to help.

Awesome! Thank you very much. I have some 1st gen Tacoma stuff, lots of 3rd gen 4runner stuff applies to tacos. I appreciate your support!

I agree with your choice. Dexron II, III, is what's required . Dexron IV is just the updated version. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support of my channel.

Thanks for watching

Yes that is correct

Yes I do. Firestone ride rite

When the engine is off the fluid will appear overfull because the fluid drains back out of the converter and pump and into the pan. Cold level is still checked with engine running and cold transmission. Hot level is checked with engine running and hot transmission. When shut off hot the fluid is expanded and will read way overfull . Let it cool off and it will still read overfull when cold and engine off, just not as high because it isn't expanded. All that to say. The most important level check is engine running, transmission hot and in park on level ground. Engine off levels mean nothing because the pump isn't running. Hope I'm understanding your issue correctly and this helps.

@@funjunkiegarage thanks for the reply, i may do this again, its just odd because when i fill it that high it runs weird, loud whine in 1st, and shifts bad, when i fill it to the 1.7 Drain and Refill capacity specification in all the manuals for the A340E it seems to run better, and thats also the spec thats in the book, but people refute this and say that you need 4 quarts, thats what it would seem like, my question to you is, after you clarified some things. Should i be worried that when the engine is cold first thing in the morning, the fluid is litterally 10 inches up the stick, but warmed up engine running its at hot?

@carsonp.7009 I would not be concerned with any readings while the engine is off. An automatic transmission has to have the pump running for any level measurements. It cannot be measured with engine off/pump off because drain back from the pump and converter may not be the same every time . I cannot explain the poor performance issue when more fluid is added. You said it's a new transmission, does it have the correct dipstick?

@@funjunkiegarage it does, i have the one from my 2002 unit, the new unit is a 2001, they have electronic kick down, instead of a cable. Speaking of the dipstick, it is very slightly bent, in the way that if you were thinking of it, its as if you pushed it toward the rear wheels. Thank you again for replying, i will probably check it more carefully tomorrow.

You're welcome. Hope you get it all figured out.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Much appreciate the compliment and your support of my channel. Much to come in 2025.

Thanks for watching and commenting

Yeah, when you work on rusty vehicles you get rewarded with stuck bolts and frustration. You have to still get the job done. Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate your support of my channel.

I cannot post photos here. 2 botls in the front. Or unclip it.

Thank you very much for your compliment. I really enjoy making the videos. And we share the same style for sure, simple and inexpensive. Much appreciate your support of my channel. Cheers.

Thank you brother. I absolutely appreciate your continued support. Keep at that D C, and enjoy it.

Thank you for sharing, that's good info. Much appreciated

@@funjunkiegarage Incase anyone is unfamiliar with BAP-Geon. They only deal in forien car parts. Jobber Whosale is the best price they give to their best customers. So ask to speak to the store manager and say who you are and what you do and ask him for jobber whosale on the parts you want. He will be very busy and ask him when you can call him back. We use the BAP on Scott Street in Houston. They ship to your door asap.

@@funjunkiegarage 3403 For anyone new to BAP-Geon... Jobber Whosale is the price they give their best customers. Ask to speak to the manager about opening a new commercial account. Tell him who you are and what parts you want and ask him when you can call him back. He might say I have it right here or he may need you to call back. Parts will ship same day. We buy from the 3403 Gulf Freeway store in Houston because they have the best price for jobber whosale. I have also snabbed up Denso parts off of Amazon wearhouse open box at a decent price.

Thanks Bruce. Hell yes it helps! Love you too brother Let's get together and go wheelin

Thank you. Much appreciated.

If it's a fuel injected vehicle, one sensor is the knock sensor and one is oil psi sending unit, if i recall correctly. If it's carburetor engine should only be one.

​@@funjunkiegarageand its ok to disconnect the chock sensor to put a factory gauge or you have to install a T to connect both?

Don't eliminate the knock sensor. Install a T.

@funjunkiegarage i have to put teflon tape or just like that

@ismaelgarcia986 no tape needed

Yes my Instagram is @funjunkiegarage. Thank you so very much. I'm happy to hear you enjoy my videos and that they are easy to understand even without all my rambling (talking too much). I always enjoy hearing from you and appreciate your support. Cheers from the good ole USA! P.S. growing the beard out longer for 2025!

Thank you. I absolutely appreciate you watching and supporting my channel.

I do too. I'm currently looking for another (my 4th) 3rd gen 4runner. I appreciate you watching and commenting

@funjunkiegarage I've had mine for almost 4 years. Some of your videos have been very helpful when I was on trail with a break.

@cowboyjunky90 , that's awesome to hear. I love wheelin. Thank you so very much for your support. I really appreciate it. Have fun out there on the trail.

Thank you. I certainly appreciate your support!

That's awesome to hear, and my goal for the channel. I appreciate you watching some older videos. I hope to have another 3rd gen 4runner soon. Oswald is a good boy for sure. I'll be sure and scratch his ears for you. I appreciate you watching and commenting and supporting my channel .

Awesome, I definitely enjoy making it. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Indeed, that's an easy job. People pay big for pads and rotors at a shop. Just not necessary Thanks for watching and commenting

This is my first time doing this job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Happy you found it useful. I appreciate you watching and sharing.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I've been moving mine to clean it for years. I'll try it your way next time. Thanks for watching and sharing, I appreciate it

Yes, still oem lbjs Interested in the total chaos but haven't really looked into them. Could well be a future upgrade. Thank you for watching and commenting.

@@funjunkiegarage Nice. You give me confidence in my 1st gen tundras capabilities. Take care.

@RicoAdv3 right on, I appreciate ya.

Hahaha, it can be tough, but I'm sure you'll get it. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it

You're welcome. I'm hip to both e-locker and air locker problems. I definitely prefer the auto lockers, cheap and easy and always work. I've been using them for years. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate your support of my channel. Cheers!

You're welcome. And thank you, appreciate the compliment. Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Suzuki hoods are pretty great work benches for sure. This customer didn't want the cam seals or half moons done. Thanks for watching and commenting

I'd definitely do it again. Not having any issues with it after several thousand miles, honestly don't know it's there. Only new thing happening is the front driveshaft is constantly spinning . If you want only 1 wheel in front to pull you can pull the 4wd fuse and it will unlock the ADD and release the right front. I have 2 friends that also run auto lockers in the fronts of their 3rd gens with no problem. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.

@funjunkiegarage Awesome! Thank you for the feedback. I think I'll give it a go. If I have any issues, I'll address it later when I have more of a budget for the regear.

@thepeppercornheart8380 you're welcome. I plan to add a front locker and regear my Tundra soon.

It certainly can cause a noise on deceleration, changes the load on the bearing.

@funjunkiegarage thank you i believe mine is original. It's a odd rumbling sound from the middle of the truck inside the cab kind of resonates but only on deceleration It goes away when I accelerate. I know everything in the front is new I just have never touched the drive shafts. If there's anything else I should look at please let me know. Again it's a rumble / grumble road noise almost coming from under the truck on deceleration it goes away while accelerating at the moment I start to decelerate the noise is back. 07 tundra crewmax 289,000 goin strong.

@rowdyroberts5769 you'rewelcome, only other thing I'd check is the u joints. Just make sure they aren't loose and give them a shot of grease. Make sure all the grease zerks are in line, that will assure the driveshaft is put together properly and is in phase.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting

Thank you. Glad you found the video helpful. I appreciate the sub and the support of my channel. Have a great day

Thank you. I appreciate you watching

Indeed, I think that'll do it

Right on. Good to know. Thank you for sharing that information. I appreciate you watching and supporting my channel

Mine was making noise at slow speeds also.

I had a noise at slow speeds also. Mine had a slight vibration too.

Thank you.

Thank you. If I didn't talk to myself about it I'd go crazy, or maybe I've already gone crazy and that's why I talk to myself ?!?!? I wondered where my tools disappeared too. What happens in Vegas allegedly stays there, so we may never know what those lost tools are up to. Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it.

Thank you.

All stock in this video. Has a rear locker and 32s now. Thanks for watching and commenting

You're welcome. Glad you found the answer you needed. Thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated.