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Yes,well… my confession after 54 years… was all me

Oh! Thank you. I was never really happy with the outcome of that little experiment.

Hi. Concerning your programming question. I guess you can use the available wav file to do the initial programming and to perform the DAC offset measurements. But I cannot tell you how to create another wav file with the adjusted code containing the new DAC data points from your calibration measurements. I only know how to create a hex file, as described in my GitHub repository (link in the video description). Concerning how to connect the module to a multimeter: you have to put in a patch cable to the x or y output of the channel to be measured. Then connect the red multimeter probe to the patch cable tip and the black probe to the patch cable sleeve (ground). Easiest way is to use crocodile clips at the multimeter.

Yes, that’s correct. As far as I understand, each DAC is slightly different. The 1st programming with the original code is used as a basis to get data about the DAC setting. The measurements then determine the required offset for each channel. So the code can be adjusted. The 2nd programming with the adjustments then takes into account those specifics for the used DAC. I hope, that helps you to get some better understanding of the process and the purpose behind it.

@@TOILmodular thank you so much, it is clear now 🙏🏻

Great that you want start with your own designs. In general, you are right. If the solder pads fit to the component, that is the most important point. I suggest you check the footprint against the component datasheet, where you will find exact measures. Just make sure that the positions and distances are correct. The rest of the footprint is what is printed on the silkscreen layer of the PCB. I often take quite some time to search the library for what I need. I usually save most important components footprints in my favorites. BTW, I am using EasyEDA. Worst case would be to create your own footprint. I think, you can easily find tutorials how to do that.

I don't think that this is an issue with the PCBs, because I got feedback from others, who built the module successfully with the Thonk version. So I would assume an issue with a component. My first guess would be some problem with the WM8731 audio codec chip. Did you use the SSOP28 version or the QFN version? In case of the SSOP28 version, might it be that the chip is not ok? As I mentioned in the video, that chip is not available anymore from official suppliers. Maybe you got a broken or fake one? If you use the QFN version, there might be a failing connection with some of the pads. It is very important for that chip to be placed exactly on the pads. You might want to reflow the solder points by putting some solder on your iron pin and run once more along the chip edges. Another idea would be to replace the other ICs and see if that works.

Thank you! Good that the video is helpful.

Thanks!

So far not. I just create background track on the fly for my videos. Maybe later I will start creating and publishing actual tracks.

Yeah, there is potential forward improvement. I just designed the controls as I need them. But you can enhance the design to your needs if you like. All open source at GitHub.

Sorry, but I do not sell. This is all DIY only, available at GitHub.

@@TOILmodulari understand. Not a DIY person, so won’t ever have this. Was just giving some feedback in case you ever do decide to make some money off of assembled modules. Looks really cool!

Thank you. Happy to help.

Yes, go ahead. It’s great fun.

Thanks. Glad you like it.

How dare I take away your pleasure of patching!

@@TOILmodular Pleasure? - Watch me looking for a filterbank while realizing that I already used the one in question for "swooooshhh". - In other words, great module you designed!

You‘re very welcome.

Glad you like it. Thanks.

Thanks.I hope, it’s what you need.

Thank you very much. The build is actually not that difficult, if you are ok with soldering a few 0603 SMD capacitors. The rest is THT. Take a look at GitHub.

Interesting. I did not really intend to sooth listeners. But I guess it can do that, too.

A eurorack module to relax, study to.

Happy to help. Actually, the noise generator part is based on the MFOS Cornucopia design. You should check that out.

Yes,I am quite happy with the outcome.

Thank you!

Thank you. Yes, controlling the noise switch via a CV pulse should not be difficult to realize. I did not have any need for that for my purposes of the module. But feel free to improve the design.

Give it a try! It opens up a lot of more possibilities. And it is a great feeling to have self-made modules running in your case.

Looks like we are both movie fans.

My stuff is just DIY, I do not sell it.

I think, my Intension was not to have percussion module. I only got the idea to feed the VCA CV with an EG when I started playing around with it.

Yeah, Rings is just lovely!

Thanks! Happy to help you with your case overflow 😁

Sorry, but I do not want to share my design for the ATV. It is available as a commercial module from Befaco -the Attenuverter. But Befaco are so kind to share the schematics for their modules.

Great, thanks!

Oh! You’re very welcome. Thank you.

Sure. You can either create an issue in the GitHub repository. Or send me an email. The address is in the channel info.

Yess, Clouds is not really an easy-access module. You can start by checking the buttons and the correct reactions by the LEDs, e.g. the freeze button. Then send an audio signal into the module and check for any output. Check the attenuator (most left side knob). It should reduce the signal level, but not totally to zero. Send some melody into it, e.g. from a sequencer and push the freeze button to capture a sample. Play around with the knobs and check if you get weird sounds. Then things should work. To understand all this, you have to dive into the manual from MI

@@TOILmodular HI thanks a lot for this, take it easy.

The design is not from me. It is based on the Bindubba sequencer from NonlinearCircuits. Andrew from NLC asked me, not to share my PCBs on GitHub, like I did for other modules, since he is still selling them himself. I respect that. But you can buy his PCBs at the NLC homepage.

Pardon, tout mes modules sont seulement DIY. Je ne les vend pas. Excuse moi, mon francais est terrible.

That's interesting. As I mentioned in the video, I had difficulties with that module. It just does not work properly. Now that you mentioned those Ceradiodes, I checked the MI documentation once more. For my module build, I just followed the schematic, I did not check the BOM at all. And I actually cannot find those diodes D9-D14 anywhere in the schematic. Maybe that is the reason why my module is not working properly. Can it be that the schematic is incomplete? Can you find those diodes in the schematic?

@@TOILmodular i must admit, i'm a total noob with this still, i barely know the basics of schematics. i was just gathering all components used to a) decide what to build first and b) get an understanding of general components being used for most builds, so i can order components properly. that being said, after you pointed it out, i played "where's waldo" with the schematic and i also could not find the ceradiodes. guess i'll also stay away from it for now

Actually, I did not use any original Polivoks schematics for that module. I found all the details at the DIY GitHub from Erica Synths. The link is in the video description. No idea, which version that was, sorry. But the Erica Synths version does not require those rare old components. Might be not as good as the original, but I have no way to compare. Anyhow, that filter did not turn out to be one of my favorites.

@@TOILmodular thats the link i followed. the polivoks BOM (from the github) has the part K140UD12. which is pretty much only available from ES directly, and 3-U shop. so did you buy this part from them? or what did you use instead?

You are right. Too long ago, since I built that module. Forgot it. I checked by stuff once more. Looks like I used an NJM4250 IC instead. Don't ask me why. I do not remember anymore. But I think, if you want to build it with the original IC, you can get it at Erica Synths directly.

Too bad the issue with your power supply. I do not know how big your case is. From my own experience I would have two recommendations for a power supply. For my bigger cases (up to 168HP and 6U) I am using the Mean Well RT65B, just like many other DIYers. Some say, that unit is quite noisy. But I never really had an issue with them, and I already have four cases, each with that unit. For smaller cases (e.g. 104HP, 3U) I am using a Mean Well DKA30B-12. Quite handy for portable cases, as it can be powered by a standard PC power brick and a strong enough power bank. Maybe one of those fits to your needs.

@TOILmodular I have seen that kind of setup. I will have another look at it. The one I built is a board with 6 3300uf and three regulators. One 12v positive and one negative and a 5v one. It had a 12v AC plug like power supply. It was the issue that caused it to fail. The plug got hot and failed. So I bought a Transformer 12vAC going to fuse it and put it inside the case. I don't have a case at the moment. I have not gotten my head around the measurements yet. I thought of buying two of the aluminium strips of that extruded type with the nuts in a track and putting them into a case made of MDF or something.

Can‘t tell you if you have it or not. Your cases filling up with DIY stuff is a good sign 😁

@@TOILmodular lol it was a joke, just implying i don't see a problem at all with what you described

Yeah, one of the very few pleasant problems of this world. Happy GBS!

@@TOILmodular for you as well!!! your channel is extremely helpful btw, thanks! :)

Sure, no problem. For the programming you only need the main board, forget about the control PCB for that. You will find several caps around the STM chip to be soldered, THT and SMD. Solder the two 22uF, the one 1uF (both THT), and the five 0,1uF (SMD) caps. On the right side, solder the 8MHz crystal oscillator and the two 18pF THT cpas next to it. Below the STM chip, solder the two BOOT pins and the 10K resistor below them. On the lower left side of the PCB, you find the programming interface pins. If you use UART, just solder those pins. If you use JTAG, you also have to solder the 10K resistor. But I did not try out that interface. I only followed the schematics from MI for that. I used UART. Then we have to take care of the power supply. For that, you need to solder the two SMD 1117 regulators, the two SMD 0.1uF caps and the three 47uF caps next to them. For the power connection, solder the pins at the PCB bottom center together with the two 1N5819 protection diodes and the two 47uF caps. That's it for being able to program the thing. Let me know, if you have questions or problems.

@TOILmodular Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my request. I know you're a busy guy, and it is well appreciated. This is my first MI board. I have started with the main chip, with it being the hardest, in my opinion. I thought if I could do this one, the others are going to be easy to do it with a cheap and nasty soldering iron. The resistors are well tiny. I love your videos and sound, some real talent you have.

Thanks a lot! I also do not use a very fancy expensive iron. The important thing is to use flux. Then you can solder really tiny stuff with some patience and a calm hand. Good luck with the build and have fun with the module.

Yes, an addictive machine.

@@TOILmodular Do you ever sell your creations?

Sorry, I do not sell stuff. Would be too much to manage. This is all just about sharing my own 2 cents of DIY with the world, paying back a bit for all that I found from all these incredible DIY sources.

@@TOILmodular I can appreciate that.

Thank you very much, MeeBilt.

Yeah, maybe. Like a blind or masked Benjolin

@@TOILmodular I dig it! I have no HP left. lol

The curse of Eurorack - lack of HP. No cure available. I am thinking about building my next case.

Thanks a lot!

Yeah, you can get lost in outer sound space with it

Right, that’s actually how I got some of the ideas for this thing

Thanks, mate