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Well, as far as I can tell, the CV output is the same. But I can only judge from the manual. I never owned an original MI module. The only difference is that mine has no option to switch via jumper between 10V and 5V max CV. Mine is set to 10V max.

There is a method described in the MI documentation. But I thought there is not much detail about how to use those tools mentioned there. I somehow found another method without using those tools. Take a look at my video about my Marbles clone and also at my GitHub repository github.com/TOILmodular/MI_FIRMWARE_COMPILING.

I gave you a few details in the reply to your email.

@TOILmodular thanks for reaching out to me and all the info, I am very grateful 🙏

Spot on. Yes the distorted signal is inverted. You can sometimes see a decrease in the amplitude of the mixed signal in the demo. I was thinking to do some change for that. But just like you I liked the sound just as it is. So I left it.

Glad you like it

Thanks for the shoutout! Yes, the 5 PCBs min feeds our DIY addiction. Go for it!

The MI GitHub only contains the source code, not the hex files. MI provides a procedure for compiling the code by using some additional software. Somehow I found a way to just execute the makefile from MI directly without those extra tools. I just added the hex files in the repository to make things easier for others. Check out my other GitHub repository MI_FIRMWARE_COMPILING for how I did that.

Yes, I think I saw that version. It is one of those slimmer clones sold by Pusherman, right? Good luck with the build.

You mean the stabilizing pins without circuit connection? That would be strange. I used the same footprint for all module designs. I know from other modules with the same pot dimensions which have been built without issues by other people. If there are different pot versions, then I would not know of their dimensions. You might just clip off those legs. The soldered circuit connections and the nut to fix the pots to the front panel should provide sufficient stability.

@@TOILmodular yes, those. indeed i will have to clip the side legs. was just a heads-up.

Thanks

Thanks!

Sorry, I realized now from your screenshot that version 2.0 does not have that diode issue. I think that was in a previous version. The diode you pointed out needs to be put in. No need to take care of any other incorrect diode. I referred to the 3 resistors above that diode. In a previous version there was another diode next to them. But it is not in version 2.0. Hope that clarifies your point. Otherwise leave another comment.

Thanks! Will try

Thank you very much

Actually, the labels of the resistor values near the pot have a typo. They should be 30K and 470 K. There is a 499K resistor in the dataset schematic. I did not have such a resistor, so I just put those two ones in series to roughly get that value. Then there is another 499R resistor in the schematics. So I did the same there. The 30R on the left is part of that.

@ thank you! That makes perfect sense

Sorry, I only have this version for the 3.2. I heard those two versions are very different. Would be great to have 3.2 or 3.1 still available. I would like to build a Music Thing Modular Radio Music.

The resistor "LED" was meant to be a simple solution for a pull-down resistor for all LEDs. But it is quite likely that just one value would either make one of the 2 colors to bright or the other one too dim. You can try with just this one resistor. But I suggest soldering single resistors for each of the LEDs on both legs for the different colors. With that you can select different values depending on the color. If you do that, then just bridge the connections of the resistor "LED" with a wire.

@TOILmodular Thanks for the reply, I guess I messed this up. I have just soldered the leds in with no resistors in line. They are red and green like the original and not blue like yours. So, I guess I will have to add the resistors in and bridge the led box. I am looking forward to using it.

@TOILmodular Hello again, I managed to burn the firmware and get it working apart from the LEDS, the module works great. Changes the sounds and sounds great. Amy ideas why the leds are not working. About 4 volts on the led leg at the top. Could it be the ic that drives the LEDS.

Do you use the „Thonk“ version of the control PCB? If so, did you check about the labeling error on the PCB for the ferrite bead and one of the 0.1uF caps next to the TLC59281, which I mentioned in the GitHub readme file? If that is not your issue, then I would suggest checking all solder points of the TLC59281 once more. The legs are quite tiny with very narrow distances.

@TOILmodular Yes, I checked that. The ferrite bead is at the top. It's labelled correctly on the board.

Good question. I tried to find an answer to that when I started designing PCBs. Since I had no idea, I thought I better make them not too thin. But with more complex designs finding space for the tracks got more difficult. So I thought scrap it and just use the default track width of the PCB design software (EasyEDA), which is 0.254mm. So far I did not have any issue with that setting. Also when I started with SMD, and especially with microchips, thicker tracks would not work for connecting all chip legs. So in a nutshell, I suggest going with 0.254mm.

Sorry, pal. No mentoring offer. If you have any specific question I can tell you what I know. General advice would be to check as many tutorials for soldering, PCB design tools (e.g. EasyEDA), other DIYers‘ videos and blogs, and give it a try.

@TOILmodular For sure, I understand. Will hit you with questions soon. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

Great that you like it. Enjoy

My panels are all made out of PCB material. You can find the Gerber file in my GitHub. The link is in the video description.

I found infos somewhere that people did use the OP07N instead of the 308. Since I could get an OP07 easier than a 308, I went with that one. Did not try other diodes.

Yes, I also like Rings-Rat a lot. Will not reach the fame of Rings-Clouds, but still nice. I thought about CV, but I wanted to keep it simple. I guess it would only work with a vactrol.

@@TOILmodular I totally understand, it adds another level of complexity (and can end up spiraling to more and more features). Just a suggestion if you end up making more euro-pedal conversions. Keep up the awesome work though. You have made some pretty cool hardware designs

Thank you. Maybe someone you know is into DIY and soldering. Details are in GitHub, and this is not a very difficult build.

You‘re welcome. Glad to know that both versions are useful for others.

Sorry, I do not work in the sales department. All DIY. If you find anyone who wants to build and sell it to you, no objection from me.

I buy those resistors from a local store. Here is a link to the dataseheet: akizukidenshi.com/goodsaffix/mf_FAITHFUL%20LINK.pdf The resistor type I use is the one staring with MFS25 in the datasheet, I.e. 1/4W and 1% tolerance. But usually 5% should also do. I think if you are searching for resistors on Mouser or Digikey with a body length of about 3 -3.5mm, you should find suitable ones.

@@TOILmodular Thank you very much! I really appreciate the info.

Thanks a lot

🐀💚🐀

Don‘t know if it works with 15V. Actually, the circuit was designed for only 9V - guitar pedal.

@@TOILmodular I'm not serious. The panels have a strong visual resemblance to PAIA, and to look at they seem over wide compared to what I'm familiar with, but I'm just taking the Pezz.

Thank you

Sounds interesting. Did you share your design somewhere?

Yes, a dirty little beast

Maybe. I have not yet tried using vactrols though

Synthrotek does this on the 308 distortion based on the rat.. could get some inspiration out of that circuit

Thank you. I see it as a compliment

Aaaabsilutely

Absolutely

Yes, the Behringer module might be the easiest solution. I just wanted to have the power supply integrated in the case. I followed Moritz Klein‘s design for his DIY Edu case with Erica Synths. Turned out just fine.

Sorry, I don’t have those values

Interesting idea. The challenge would be to find space on the PCB.

@@TOILmodular If you could, this would be one of my dream modules comes true.

Thank you. A really great movie BTW

@@TOILmodular John Carpenter and Dan O’Obannon. Great stuff.

Absolutely! Dan: from inflated vegetable to chest bursting monsters

Thanks a lot

Glad you like it

Thanks so much, also that you persevered until the demo 😁

Thank you for this comment. I had to think a bit about it. And honestly, I had to check those appreciations that you used, since I am not familiar with them. I think I owe you a bit more detailed reply. I already had some questions/request from others about providing modules either as kits or assembled. Don’t want to disappoint you, but I decided quite early not to do that. But I want to give you my reasons. 1st of all, this is just a hobby of mine, which to my own surprise went on longer and in more detail than I thought. As you can imagine, if I decide to offer modules/kits, it will have to be commercial, otherwise I cannot afford doing that. I also saw/heard several stories shared by known people in the modular synth DIY community talking about their decision to commercially provide their work. All of them were sad about the fact that this shrunk their fun to different degrees compared to when it was still just a hobby to them. It was easily understandable to me why. I see a big problem in the responsibility that you automatically take, when providing something for money. I decided to at least share as much as possible about which I thought might be interesting enough for others. And I am always happy to help as much as I can if there is any issue for anyone with the build of one of those modules. So forgive me, but I will not move any further than that. In the end I am also just a layman, had no idea about all this modular synth stuff 5 years ago, when I started trying out stuff a bit in VCV Rack, wondering why there is no sound at all. I’d like to keep the feeling of fun and excitement with this hobby without feeling any pressure. Well, it is all DIY, right? Hope you do not mind too much and can still enjoy my stuff (as long as I want to continue). But again, let me know if you need any help. Happy to do that as much as I can. Cheers

@@TOILmodular How hard is it to build the CV-controlled Fixed Filter Bank? I can solder the components together but i have no background in electronics. Do i need to calibrate anything?

There is no calibration needed for this module. The most difficult part might be the SMD components, depending on your soldering skills. I suggest starting with the SMD capacitors, then all the SMD op amps, then the rest.

@@TOILmodular Thanks. I might give it a try. It would be great if Thonk or somebudy would sell kits - if you're not interested yourself. I always wanted a not so fixed filter bank that i could modulate. There are not that many options.

Yes, give it a try. I like the module very much. Concerning Thonk, if Steve is interested in distributing any of my modules, no concern from my side. However, I would not contact him and ask for that. I do not want to commercialize them.

Well, yes. There are a few parts in here. Typical FFB

Thanks!

Yes, I think that’s the case for any PCB manufacturer.

Great, keep up the dream. It is achievable. I started that journey 5 years ago without even having heard of modular synths before, let alone DIY. You find a lot of ideas online. Maybe my video series „Finding Modules“ can help you find online sources.

Thanks! I'll check your video and keep looking around online some ideas. I'm going to buy soldering iron and other needed tools when I got next paycheck also some rails and start to build a case. There is just that magic in diy modular and modular synths I want to experience :)