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VelocipedeAcoustics
Добавлен 19 фев 2022
I'm Keith and this is my channel. I do speaker design stuff. Enjoy!
Sony SS cs5 crossover upgrade discussion
Let us talk crossover upgrade for the Sony SS CS5 speaker. Sorry for the half drunken rambling!
Просмотров: 4 797
GR Research, and Neil Blanchard already made mods for these. I'm going with Danny's mods. I have 4 pairs of these and might get 2 more pairs for my heights, which are using much smaller Sonys. I use one for center (one recliner) and rest for the 7 bed layer. 7.2.4, but will probably add a couple more subs eventually. Got most of mine for $50 a pair. I never pay full price.
Nice! Would love to see the final results, I have a pair of these and I'm familiar with building crossovers from diagrams so I would love to see how these could be improved.
How about the SSCS 3 towers? I bought them for rear surrounds, but because I like to mess around with speakers, I like to hook them up for HiFi sometimes. They definitely have a good sound but there is room for improvement. I have rebuilt crossovers but designing them is out of my wheelhouse. I could definitely just do a retrofit with better components but would rather have better designed crossover. I don't mind spending the money if I get a much better speaker.
I'm surprised this got so many views. I've not logged into this account in a while and I was surprised.
I think you should build this speaker and test different options. Provide feedback on each design based on sound and list parts you would recommend. This is a very sought after upgrade and hundreds of thousands of searches for this speaker on RUclips.
Amazing video and I hope to see the build breakdowns very very soon. Love this content.
Great video, you did a great job with the presentation. The information was objective and you you did a good job of avoiding redundant phrases and information.
Thanks!
I don't understand how people are getting this speaker for $88 when it's $235 on Amazon
I got mine for $50 brand new from offerup
@mustelago same. Got mine for 50 this week on offerup
How do you take them apart without destroying the face plate?
The ring around the speaker is both screwed and glued in place. You have to gently pry the ring off. I'm going to try heating it up first.
A more affordable "upgrade" to the crossover would be to use only the one inch dome tweeter and turn it into a two way speaker. A three way adds allot of complexity and extra cost to a budget speaker. Keep doing what you're doing, I love these kind of videos!
I thought so too, but the 1" tweeter has some issues. The speaker is very hard to design with a linear response without the super tweeter.
This is interesting, and you deserve kudos for going to the trouble to do this. I may try to watch it again later, but I just couldn't make it through because of the pace and because I felt like I had to make guesses about what you were doing. One thing that I inferred, although possibly not correctly, is that you did close-miked measurements of the woofer and determined by doing so that the peak at 1.1 kHz is due to the woofer's inherent response. But I'm not sure my inference is correct because I don't think you ever said that this is what you did, i.e., that you did close-miked measurements of the three drivers independently and this was how you obtained the response curve that you started with. Is this correct, or did you obtain those measurements from some other source? If you took those measurements yourself, did you disconnect the other two drivers when taking measurements of one of the drivers independently? My sense is that this would probably have been a much better video if you had done something like an outline of what you needed to explain, before putting together the video.
The drivers were measured close range to get close range data. Then measured each with no crossover at 1 meter to get the rest of the data for the crossover design.
@@velocipedeacoustics5790 Thanks, but I'm still not clear on exactly how you obtained the graph that you show in the video at 6:05. This is a graph for the woofer's response. Was this obtained (a.) close-mic'd with the two other drivers disconnected, or (b.) close-mic'd with the other two drivers connected, or (c.) at 1 meter with the other two drivers disconnected, or (d.) at 1 meter with the other two drivers connected? I'm just trying to understand whether this is the woofer's inherent response in the enclosure but without the influence of edge diffraction, or if not, what exactly it is.
@@tombarber8013 It's the woofer, at 0.5m, no crossover.
@@velocipedeacoustics5790 Thanks. I think you did something very useful here. I would be interested in knowing how you opened up the speaker to access the crossover. I've looked at this speaker before and it seems to me that if you want to remove the woofer you have to destroy the trim piece and you have to do this very carefully or you will do greater damage. Perhaps you were able to pull out the crossover by removing the upper baffle (the one shared by the two tweeters) and leaving the woofer alone. I would like to know if this is what you did, and if so whether it was easy or difficult to access the crossover. Just glancing at the response curve of your result it looks like it would maybe have been a smidgen flatter if the resistor in series with the larger tweeter were a smidgen more conductive and the high-pass applied to it were slightly steeper to compensate and the low-pass applied to it were slightly less steep (or the rolloff point placed a little higher). The is a modest dip between 3 kHz and 7 kHz. If you had been able to knock the woofer down a touch starting at 1 kHz this would probably have fixed the slight dip between 3 and 7 kHz, leaving only a slight rising shelf in the small tweeter which could be fixed with slightly more aggressive padding. But you weren't able to roll the woofer off any steeper. Another possibility, though, would have been to roll the woofer off slightly lower in frequency but not more steeply, which would like have had the desired effect without creating that response peak in the crossover. Maybe. There is a genuine advantage in keeping the smaller tweeter, but it needed to be done the way you did it, making it into a true 3-way. What matters isn't how much to add to the cost of a speaker that was cheap to start with, but rather how much you have invested in the end result and whether the end result is worth that amount of cost. The way I would look at the cost of the new crossover is that the low initial cost of the speaker accommodates significant improvement to the crossover in that the total cost at the end will still be comparatively low thanks to the low initial cost. Another approach that could be taken with this small 3-way would be use the passive high-pass on the small tweeter and the passive low-pass on the larger tweeter so that you can treat those two drivers as a single driver in effect using active, DSP-based 2-way crossover with PEQ correction. I.e., using the MiniDSP 2x4 for the rest of it, along with a 2-channel amp per speaker. This would provide an excellent way to deal with, for example, that woofer peak, in the signal processing chain that follows the crossover stage and where the PEQ band that you apply is in the signal path for only the woofer. This would make for an interesting speaker, and I think that MiniDSP makes (or used to anyway) a suitable solution with both the DSP with crossover and the two-channel amplifier in a single plate. Because of the low initial cost, this could actually end up being a very nice speaker at very low cost, and while a modest amount of construction would obviously be needed, it wouldn't be like building a cabinet from scratch or even like buying a "knock down" cabinet and separate drivers from scratch. All in all it would be a easier, less ambitious effort compared to that start-from-scratch approach, completed in substantially less time and at much lower cost vs. what would typically occur when building from scratch and using the MiniDSP solution.
@@tombarber8013 Thanks for the replies. I addressed the dip in the video with an option to adjust he said resistor. I wanted to keep it at or above 4ohms for the masses. I mentioned it can be improved with a lower value resistor. As for taking it apart, I don't recall, but I didn't have trouble removing the woofer and it's ring. The crossover, I just snips to destroy the standoffs to get it out. I did break the crossover board in the process. As for using DSP, yeah, we could option that in and just get generic slopes in and EQ it to be flat. Directive would still be the same, probably.