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I think you should build this speaker and test different options. Provide feedback on each design based on sound and list parts you would recommend. This is a very sought after upgrade and hundreds of thousands of searches for this speaker on RUclips.

Amazing video and I hope to see the build breakdowns very very soon. Love this content.

Thanks!

I got mine for $50 brand new from offerup

@mustelago same. Got mine for 50 this week on offerup

The ring around the speaker is both screwed and glued in place. You have to gently pry the ring off. I'm going to try heating it up first.

I thought so too, but the 1" tweeter has some issues. The speaker is very hard to design with a linear response without the super tweeter.

The drivers were measured close range to get close range data. Then measured each with no crossover at 1 meter to get the rest of the data for the crossover design.

@@velocipedeacoustics5790 Thanks, but I'm still not clear on exactly how you obtained the graph that you show in the video at 6:05. This is a graph for the woofer's response. Was this obtained (a.) close-mic'd with the two other drivers disconnected, or (b.) close-mic'd with the other two drivers connected, or (c.) at 1 meter with the other two drivers disconnected, or (d.) at 1 meter with the other two drivers connected? I'm just trying to understand whether this is the woofer's inherent response in the enclosure but without the influence of edge diffraction, or if not, what exactly it is.

@@tombarber8013 It's the woofer, at 0.5m, no crossover.

@@velocipedeacoustics5790 Thanks. I think you did something very useful here. I would be interested in knowing how you opened up the speaker to access the crossover. I've looked at this speaker before and it seems to me that if you want to remove the woofer you have to destroy the trim piece and you have to do this very carefully or you will do greater damage. Perhaps you were able to pull out the crossover by removing the upper baffle (the one shared by the two tweeters) and leaving the woofer alone. I would like to know if this is what you did, and if so whether it was easy or difficult to access the crossover. Just glancing at the response curve of your result it looks like it would maybe have been a smidgen flatter if the resistor in series with the larger tweeter were a smidgen more conductive and the high-pass applied to it were slightly steeper to compensate and the low-pass applied to it were slightly less steep (or the rolloff point placed a little higher). The is a modest dip between 3 kHz and 7 kHz. If you had been able to knock the woofer down a touch starting at 1 kHz this would probably have fixed the slight dip between 3 and 7 kHz, leaving only a slight rising shelf in the small tweeter which could be fixed with slightly more aggressive padding. But you weren't able to roll the woofer off any steeper. Another possibility, though, would have been to roll the woofer off slightly lower in frequency but not more steeply, which would like have had the desired effect without creating that response peak in the crossover. Maybe. There is a genuine advantage in keeping the smaller tweeter, but it needed to be done the way you did it, making it into a true 3-way. What matters isn't how much to add to the cost of a speaker that was cheap to start with, but rather how much you have invested in the end result and whether the end result is worth that amount of cost. The way I would look at the cost of the new crossover is that the low initial cost of the speaker accommodates significant improvement to the crossover in that the total cost at the end will still be comparatively low thanks to the low initial cost. Another approach that could be taken with this small 3-way would be use the passive high-pass on the small tweeter and the passive low-pass on the larger tweeter so that you can treat those two drivers as a single driver in effect using active, DSP-based 2-way crossover with PEQ correction. I.e., using the MiniDSP 2x4 for the rest of it, along with a 2-channel amp per speaker. This would provide an excellent way to deal with, for example, that woofer peak, in the signal processing chain that follows the crossover stage and where the PEQ band that you apply is in the signal path for only the woofer. This would make for an interesting speaker, and I think that MiniDSP makes (or used to anyway) a suitable solution with both the DSP with crossover and the two-channel amplifier in a single plate. Because of the low initial cost, this could actually end up being a very nice speaker at very low cost, and while a modest amount of construction would obviously be needed, it wouldn't be like building a cabinet from scratch or even like buying a "knock down" cabinet and separate drivers from scratch. All in all it would be a easier, less ambitious effort compared to that start-from-scratch approach, completed in substantially less time and at much lower cost vs. what would typically occur when building from scratch and using the MiniDSP solution.

@@tombarber8013 Thanks for the replies. I addressed the dip in the video with an option to adjust he said resistor. I wanted to keep it at or above 4ohms for the masses. I mentioned it can be improved with a lower value resistor. As for taking it apart, I don't recall, but I didn't have trouble removing the woofer and it's ring. The crossover, I just snips to destroy the standoffs to get it out. I did break the crossover board in the process. As for using DSP, yeah, we could option that in and just get generic slopes in and EQ it to be flat. Directive would still be the same, probably.