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@@kirksmith347 this happened with regular baseplates on the 21 rounders. I'm sure it would indeed be worse with Legion baseplates.

@@lanep4322 Or just buy a Glock? 🙄🤷‍♂️

Glad I could help!

Hope it helps!

Neither of these were stainless. The older one may have been hot dipped galvanized (though I doubt it...the threads were too clean) while the new one was surely electroplated. They are both supposed to be equivalent steel.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad you enjoyed it. I really didn't intend for it to get that long...but it happens sometimes ;)

Thanks for the feedback. This tractor has been pretty good for us. Most of its problems have been normal wear and tear or, like in this video, from our dirty fuel. :/

Thank you for the feedback. As you can probably tell, I'm not trying to be any kind of "real influencer." Most of my videos are filmed from a phone held in one hand (trying to not block the mic too much). The intent of the channel is primarily for the farm I work on, for other workers who already have some familiarity with the equipment. If anything helps folks out in the rest of the world, well that's just a great bonus! Replacing the switch is a two handed operation. If I had a tripod or a cameraperson, it would still be hard to effectively document as the real action happens mostly by feel, out of sight under the fender. For what it's worth, there is not a lot to the actual replacement of the switch. As mentioned, you have to remove the boot around the lever and the "splash guard" panel underneath the fender (it is pretty obvious if you look under it). The switch is just held in by that round threaded bezel/nut. There probably is an appropriately sized spanner/pin wrench to loosen it...but I just used Channel Locks. You might want to cushion the jaws (with tape or something) to prevent damaging the chrome finish on the bezel. I didn't. The new switch came with a replacement, so it didn't matter if I tore up the old one during removal. I didn't make the new one very tight anyway. Once you have the bezel/nut removed, the switch should drop down under the fender. You'll have to guide it out around the splash guard that you loosened, but it isn't too hard. Once it is out, unplug it from the wiring harness and that's it for removal. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Plug it in to the wire first, while it is easy to get to, then fiddle it in under the fender. You'll notice that there is a flat side on the threaded stem of the switch and a flat side on the hole in the fender that it goes through. Line the flats up (that's so the whole thing doesn't rotate when you turn the key) and hold the switch in the hole from the back with one hand while you thread on the bezel/nut from the outside. Make it snug with whatever moderately appropriate wrench you have. If your fingers are strong, you might even just make it hand tight. Make sure the wires are routed safely when you re-secure the splash guard plate, reinstall the boot around the control lever, and you should be done. Hope this helps! --Art

Maybe. I don't figure it is worth the risk. I might just try to bump them out a bit.

@@arts_odd_jobs YEA you are right. i never work with bullets

Because the bullet is pushed too far back in the case, there is less open space inside when the powder ignites. The smaller volume leads to higher pressure...potentially dangerously/damagingly higher pressure. The shorter overall length may also not feed properly, but the real danger is higher than spec pressure.

@@arts_odd_jobsoh yea that makes sense, sounds like it’ll just blow the casing open if that happens, thanks man 🙏

I thought Remington would have had it figured out by now... :/

I have had worse from Winchester. This is the first time (for me) from Rem. I'm just glad I noticed while I was loading my mags at home and not at the match.

nope ;)

Sure. Just don't get me into trouble ;)

@@arts_odd_jobs Sure, Thank you very much!

Glad it helped!

So that's why it's so reliable 😜

I wish the operators would take some responsibility or at least caution about what they hit.🙄

Glad I could help. Be careful...if it's anything like the old Deere's I deal with, that hood has probably gotten pretty weak, particularly at the rear mounting bolts. Also, I'm not sure about the 4230, but I do know that the water pump on the 4040 can be rebuilt if the housing isn't damaged. I was able to buy a new shaft, bearings, and seals for a lot less than the whole assembly. Something to consider. Good luck!

It's been fine ever since. I think she's shot it in three matches, so it probably has at least 400 rounds through it with no more problems.

Thanks!

Glad to help!

Hmmm...that's tricky. Did it run fine before the water pump replacement? What exactly do you mean by, "now it's not wanting to run?" Does it not start at all, or does it start then shut off? Does it even crank?

@@arts_odd_jobs hi it starts and the PTO will not engage and will not go forward or in reverse. When Mike pushes in the clutch he says it makes a horrible noise

@@bevdowdy9483 Yikes. Thats a lot going on, and I'm afraid it's going to be hard to try to diagnose online. Not knowing the model or options is a handicap, but, honestly, probably wouldn't help much. If it is a syncho shift, not going into forward or reverse as a stand alone symptom could be as simple as a linkage (to the shifter or clutch) out of adjustment, or the clutch worn out. The clutch making a noise when pushed it...that's probably really bad, mostly because it is hard to actually get to the clutch (which usually means splitting the tractor in half). I would start by going over every linkage from the clutch, forward/reverse selector, and PTO, hoping to find something loose or disconnected. I'm sorry. This sounds big, and I don't think I can help. :(

@@arts_odd_jobs ❤️ thank you it's the clutch and Kubota said what you did about the split. So currently it's sitting but my older brother Mike went and purchased another tractor and will continue to work on the Kubota. Have a great week

Retrofit drains (with the sleeve that goes into the existing pipe) can be tricky because there is more to them. Make sure all the bolts are tight, but don't over do it! There are different varieties, but the retrofit drains I've seen use pretty small bolts. Some are stainless, which is nice but not as strong. You really don't want to break any of them off! Sometimes drains can't handle the volume of rain and back up. All sorts of minor defects with the flashing inside the bowl can tolerate water flowing down over them. Once the bowl is full and water is pushing sideways, all bets are off. This can more easily affect retrofit drains as their design naturally slightly reduces the diameter (and therefore capacity) of the pipe. You'll also want to make sure the connection down inside the pipe is tight. It's usually a rubber gasket that gets compressed by turning screws down in the pipe with a long screwdriver. Hopefully the drain came with the proper driver and/or the installer left one for you. Obviously, you'll want to check all the seams and target flashing around the outside of the bowl, too. Of course, when diagnosing any leak at a drain, unless there is a blatantly obvious deficiency, it is important to first make sure that the leak is indeed coming from the roof side and not the pipe. No amount of roofing work will fix a leaky pipe ;) Good luck!

Thanks for the feedback. All told, there is probably close to a mile of driveway to protect. Personally, I want less obstacles, not more. I there is a simpler administrative solution: If he can't keep the equipment on the driveway, he shouldn't be operating the equipment. Unfortunately, that's not my call to make. No one else seems to have a problem "staying between the lines"

There is only one person who has this problem while operating equipment (I'm not going to call him an operator). I would rather he not run the equipment than junk up the place more (the equipment would appreciate that, too!).

@@arts_odd_jobs I guess I can see that. But also at that point, you should make it clear to the owner of the equipment, that is an issue. If the operator is the same as the owner, throw some cone up on the corners.

@@HiplessDoesIt Oh, the owner knows... 🙄

I did sternly yet politely ask if he was ok. He assured me that he was. I was doubtful of that, but, fortunately, he took his dog and left without injury (to anyone).

This went on much longer than was filmed. When he decided to leave, he had no trouble collecting the dog. "Evil". Hmm...evil can manifest in many forms, like egocentricity or just not knowing or caring that one's actions could negatively affect others.

There was one already, although they had no business being there. The real concern is the following day, when people are supposed to be there and it is still icy because this person's car left a "shadow" where the salt couldn't be spread to do its job.

Welcome to the internet! ;)

Yes, because it was icy...icy enough that the property was deemed unsafe for public use and closed.

He didn't seem grumpy...a little confused maybe, but not grumpy. 🤷‍♂

@@arts_odd_jobs I am not referring to the old man who is just trying to enjoy life and exercise his dog. I am referring to the callous, unempathetic narrator (you?). This is a sadly sour video.

Well...who's the grumpy poster now? :p Seriously though, I saw a trespasser with limited mobility (a real liability in these icy conditions) and a loose dog hampering snow removal at a school (that was closed but trying to be able to resume normal operations). If you don't see anything not ok with that, you probably won't enjoy my other videos either. That's fine. There is a "dislike" button and probably a way to ensure that you don't see any more of them. Be safe out there...and, if you can't, try to get footage ;)

Maybe if the hose leaks enough...

Left and low is the way to go! ;)

Ok

Thank you@@arts_odd_jobs

Ok