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Oggi procedo per l’acquisto. Spero di trovarlo in Italia. Grazie .

You didn't get to flow? Different rates for different woods? Electric or cordless? Johnny

You can get the PS33 for around 1000 EUR and the Bernardo TH 330 for 650 EUR - same spec for wood sizes. I think the wood extraction is very good on the PS33 - but for a hobby user the price difference high. I got the PS33 - i hurt buying - but i hope i will have fewer problems with the machine compared to cheaper models - but i could be wrong.

The price for the Microjig Fitfinder is ridiculous and shows that patents are not always to the best. I think I will look up what is patented. It would be bad if such an old mechanism like the 45 degree angle to get to half the distance could be patented.

Great video. Just bought one off eBay and watching this video has probably saved me a full day of messing about

I’d take the Chinese version 10/10 times, better made, you can scribe with it and I’m betting 5 times more accurate due to the smaller build clearance. So what! The magnets are stronger on the plastic one.. Unscrew them from the Chinese version and replace with better magnets, problem solved. imho

How does it work with solid hard wood? With maple for example? Do you recommend this product for guitar craftsman? The surface comes smooth without chips?

Great video

your new shirt is fire!🔥

Nice Paul! That is indeed an awesome looking marking knife!

Thank you so much for posting this video. I was having this exact same problem when it came to applying the secondary bevel by turning the dial to the 6 o'clock position. Finding this video and learning that I'm not alone is very reassuring. I called Veritas in Canada and they told me that Lee Valley will call me and fix the problem. Thanks again.

Why not create some dowel templates out of a hardwood like hickory? Slip in the template and then tighten down.

Hi Paul! Nice detailed explanation on how to align the cutters on the tool. It's very helpful. Could you please share the socket head set that you got? Thanks!

I came looking for a video on the dowel cutter because mine was not working. It turned out the the piece that holds the insert was recessed deeper than the front face of the jig, so the unmachined timber was jamming in the hole before it reached the cutter. I got it working by placing a fender washer behind the cutting mechanism. That let me cut about 400mm of dowel, but then jammed again, which I suspect was because the shoulder that cutting mechanism is mounted on, was shallower than the fender washer I was using, so I am going to have to machine a millimeter or more off the front face. That's going to lose the text, but I don't fancy my luck returning it to Bangood, and I have owned it for a good few months before trying to use it. I hope this might help other people who encounter poor tolerances.

Thanks for the tips, I will try. I also bought one of these jigs, and it's not working well at all. Globally it's bullshit and I would not advice to buy it, but rather to build one (what i will also do). There are plenty good videos on the topic.

The bottom pattern looks like ET. very cool 👍

Why didn’t you go for the woodpeckers?

I forgot to add, congratulations on reaching the 1,000 Subscriber milestone!

Nice comparison, and I'm not surprised you picked the KM over the Chinese copy of the Veritas guides. I had the Veritas guides (with saw) from Lee Valley, and had the opportunity to use them, along with the David Barron and KM guides in a dovetail course. The David Barron guides have very fine sandpaper on the surfaces that contact the wood, and it was easy to hold the guide in place. Also, the rare earth magnets in the David Barron guides are larger than the magnets in the Veritas or KM guides. I got rid of my Veritas guides and bought a set of the David Barron guides. The problem you identified with the Chinese copies of the Veritas guides exist with the original Veritas guides if used as you did, and as I did when I tried to use my Lie-Nielsen saws. The saw Veritas includes as an option with the guides does not have a top frame and the magnets in the guides held the saw firmly on the guide. The lack of a frame eliminates the reduced depth of cut.

I guess their thinking was that with guide edges and magnets working for you, a stiffened back becomes less important and a thinner kerf much more useful? PS sorry for 2nd post but I can't edit my initial message 🤪 PPS what's that green thing attached to the top of your sustainer stack??

You are awesome man. I have the KM version and have always been happy with it. Seems like the barrier to break through to a hundred thousand subscribers has gone way up. Your content is excellent and so understated. Please don't give up. Where are you in the UK? Try to make it there once a year. Should be in St. Anne's Lytham in early October.

I have the same hongdui guide. The problem you described is a thing. Although as a hobbyst if I have to use a guide once a month I can live with that. Its still easier than cutting dovetails freehand.

Tbink you just had ine if a bad batch. My Veritas guide is spot on and as good as I can sharpen freehand I like the consistency the guide gives every time. Full marks to Veritas for sorting it out👍

Fajny kubek ;)

Because of your presentation here, I finally accomplished something today--discovering the difference between Fisch's "Wavecutter" and "Black Shark Pro" and simply "Black Shark." Now I understand Black Shark to be essentially a more recent and refined version of the "Wavecutter" line. Please correct this understanding in reply if I am wrong. I spent a good amount of time "surfing" in RUclips to discover this difference which was not even presented at "FISCH®-Tools Product Demo 2020" where the Black Shark line was introduced as "another one of our products is …" Despairing of finding any available small set imperial versions of "Wavecutter," I now feel no apprehension in purchasing a small "Black Shark" set, even if it is not "Black Shark Pro."

You just explained my problem! I couldn't figure it out and thought it was my fault. Now I know I didn't do anything wrong. Thanks!

What would have been useful is an actual accurate measurement of their accuracy and slop factor from the play in the slides.

I use a grinder with a coarse wheel for the primary bevel. I grind as close to the edge as I can without grinding to the edge, so the angle and grit have no impact on the edge. By getting, and keeping, the secondary bevel very close to the edge, honing the edge goes very fast. I use the Veritas guide for honing plane irons because edge geometry, sharpening efficiency, and final sharpness are important to me. But now that I only use a guide for the secondary bevel, any decent guide would do. Chisels I hone by hand by hand because geometry is not critical, the edge is short, it takes less time, and chopping dovetails and tenon shoulders dulls my chisel rather quickly.

I tried ash and had it milled to 7/16(11mm) x 7/16, I had to start with the 12mm opening and work it down to 10mm and 9mm which is what I wanted. They were (71mm) 28 inches in length and would oscillate and break off so it's best to keep them shorter in length.

I'm glad Veritas sorted out the problems you were having with the honing guide. Sharpening tends to be a contentious topic for woodworkers. When I'm asked for the best method, I respond with "whichever method gives you the best results. Pick one and try it." I use the Lie Nielsen honing guide and have never had any problems with it. Unlike the Veritas honing guide, the LN guide clamps chisels and plane irons from the sides, as did the early Eclipse guides. My bench planes get the 25-degree primary bevel using the Tormek, then four passes over the 800 grit water stone to establish a narrow 30-degree secondary bevel, and finally two or three passes over the 10,000 grit water stone for a 35 degree tertiary bevel. I was trained by the late David Charlesworth on this method, and it works well for me.

Good to hear about the good customer service by Veritas. I have two of these as well and have not experienced this problem. One thing I do know is that even with the wide roller, pressure still matters. It's not a 100% guarantee that you will get a square edge. If you put slightly more pressure to one or the other side, you can still skew it a little (not saying that was the case with you, just that even with a 100% perfect model, squareness is not guaranteed, you need to put pressure evenly).

I just got my Laguna F2 and this is going to be one of the first things i want to upgrade, but like many people i don't want to drill into my fence. I appreciate your video!!

Thank you for this video. I'm new to CNC and Fusion 360, planning to buy one machine for guitar building. Seeing the complete process, just like you presented it, gave me a lot of valuable information. Thank you!

The drip out from the gun after using will that eventually stop dripping by itself or is there a way to draw that glue back a bit like you would a caulk gun?

excellent presentation, easy to use. I have one and now I can also use it. Thanks

Stl or didnt happend

The candyman lol nice

👍 "PromoSM"

Hello how long do the blades stay sharp? how often do you need to change?

Nice job. Would have enjoyed your video more without the music though.

8:42 hey Dominik ricker

great video buddy thanks for sharing

Thank you for the video tour, Paul! I missed going this year, so I will have to wait until March 2026 for the next event. At 4:28 you asked about the bars on the RUWI table. These are attachment points for table extensions. The RUWI table on that Optimum drill press is about €850 as you saw it. The extension tables are €200 each, so it is a premium bit of kit.

Laguna has a video showing this exact feature.

Hello. Are you still happy with it a year later ? I would definitely be interested in hearing your thoughts after you used it for a while, I have a small workshop, a small budget and I make small things too so I am wondering if this would be the jointer to go with, I don't want to buy one of the crappy 2-300€ models and I can't really afford a massive one.

Bad to the bone

What is a rooter ? Is it something you use to remove roots from a plant / tree /shrub ?

Maybe I am way off here, but I would have design it to fit into the miter slots so you had less directions to push. You would only have had to push forward. For router table , removable miter tracks.

Nice video and I am just waiting for my Fusion 3 to get through the Suez Canal. Did I notice your fence lift a bit when you pushed the wood through ?