Видео

I dont understand what height the copper should be in the block

Thanks man...Funtastic ...good job!

Just to confirm, when the need is moving from zero to the right, that is for negative pressure?

When replacing the primary is it plug and play or do you have to program it?

Hahahaha! You Ice Machine guys are something else man. My business partner is an ice machine guy and he’s a little wild too.

I use the pinch off tool with someone is banging ok on the bathroom door. 😊

Does the 24 V side of this switch get its power from the W terminal when the heat comes on? I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Someone has wired mine to get 24V from the Y terminal when the AC is on which makes no sense at all. Now 24V is not getting through this fan limit switch and through the thermal switch on the blower and finally making its way all the way back to terminal 1 of the Honywell Intermittent Igniter which turns the gas valve on for full burning operation. The igniter is a 24V system so if your fan limit switch happens to be a system where 110V AC is running through both sides of the fan limit switch, the limit side has to step down to 24V at some point with the 110 V / 24v AC transformer to shut the gas off if things get too hot.

I don't know much about motors but would appreciate your advice... I would like to get a 1/4 hp motor for continuous use. I would be running this motor all day, everyday for long time. I'm making a rock tumbler & using it to tumble rocks. This will be running for weeks at a time 24 hour a day. I don't know if I need a single phase motor. Or if there are motors with built in fans within the motor to keep it cool? I heard Dayton or Marathon motors are good. Any advice Or input on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks 😎

Awesome!

Question. I have a Beckett AFG. It has a .065 70B nozzle. The pump was factory set at 156. I need to drop the pressure down to a hundred so I can lower the BTU. Its 83000 and is to much. I only need 45k btu. Using a .50 nozzle will get me to 53k. The furnace has never ran long enough to really warm and keep it that way. Short cycles. I have the low fire baffle that came with it. Does that sound right?. .50 nozzle and lower pressure to 100. I have to figure out if I need a 80a or 70b. The head is Fo and the burner am AFG

Thank you

How do you actually check the output? My boiler isnt always coming on. Usually if I hit reset it fires up but sometimes it hums. If I hit the transformer it fires up. Weird. How do you check if its going bad?

I am seeing very low voltages (23v) where there should be 124 volts (above blue wire) . I see 124 on orange. The switch appears to work. Does that mean my limit switch is bad or is it something else. I have an older 1978 era furnace/ac. It was working fine earlier in the week, now it's doing this. I am having to run it on fan to heat the house as the Auto setting does not work.Thanks for any help. I'm pulling my hair out.

I'm trying to fix my boiler and think the cad cell may be the issue. If I hit reset the boiler fires and runs fine. After it shuts down it won't come back on unless I hit reset again. I tried checking cad cell like this but I get nothing. With the transformer closed and the cad cell wires disconnected I get no reading at all. With the transformer open I'm getting like 6.9-7 k I believe. Anyone know what this means?

Would have been much neater if you swapped the relay coil and contact positions.... Look at it again... Much neater swapped... Easier to study, even as simple as it is.

For sure a nice and clear instruction video! My question is what type of oil do you use as I can't find any reference on the internet to what oil is suitable for this?

Hi, I am using the same swaging tool as you've got there, and I'm struggling to do the 1/4" tubing. My 3/8" comes out beautiful like in your video here, but I can't seem to get the 1/4" to stick out of the block far enough for it to swage nicely, even with the tool backed all the way up. My swages end up way too shallow to work properly, and it seems to crush the tubing against the block. Any tips?

Line is white load is black?

Hello awesome video. Can you make a video on how to build this setup you have here?

I have some questions if you find a few minutes to spare.

if the incoming low voltage to the contactor was somehow less than 24v….say 20v….could the contactor work. Or is 24v the absolute threshold amount to it functioning?

One of the best videos of flaring that I've watched ! Should have 1000s of views !!!! Really liked the nickel tip..thank you

Straight to the point, no bullshit, nice and short, well explained, and great demonstration.. GREAT VIDEO

U r the greatest instructor. Like your video,what’s your contact email please?

Cool video man. Thinking I have a faulty one. Old 30 year old trane that hasn’t had maintenance. This video helped 😅

Good video. Basic settings adjustment by why do you want to play with the pressure?. Recommended 100psi? Is there math behind that? I'm running 135 on a .75 or .70 nozzle with 140k iBTU input box on a Beckett AFG. My flue measurements are spot on with max efficiency.

No squirrel cage on that motor shaft?

When a furnace kicks on and theirs a fume smell but goes away. Would a barometric damper be affecting that?

You may want to consider doing wiring examples on a working unit. As a student, those wiring trainers are confusing after looking at actual production units.

That motor is definitely shot lmao

My limit switch side is bad(open) on an old ge furnace. I can't find the part. What options do I have?

Most pump’s aren’t 100psi, the larger the nozzle the lower the pressure.

Omg you saved me I have had two different companies look at my furnace and one guy made it back fire !! Now I know the issue and I'm done paying guy to play a guessing game!

Yout much better than my instructor

Sir the 10k reading was your body resistance. You can't have your fingers on the probes.

👍

Can I use these to add and remove refrigerant? Or would I only use that to check pressures?

Is it better to wait until you have a steady stack temp then measure draft or it doesn't matter??

Oldie but goodie

So what would be the point of front seating either valve when the system is running? Or is there ever a time when you would want to?

ty man your channel saved me cash...my furnace blew soot through whole oil system covering the light censer with black film from soot. wiped it off and it stayed on it was shutting down after a min ..but i m covid broke and couldnt pay a guy to come ....thanks again friend

Where can i buy a draft tester, something like yours, also i do adjust my oil furnace by just looking at the fire and inside pipes, and damper unit, what/how do you think doing it without the tester?

So how do you know if the cad cell is working properly? What is the normal reading when it’s running because you never had a flame or explain what the normal reading should be. At what point is it good or bad?

Why do you have the gauge on that end of the jet line? Shouldn’t it be on the other side so it’s connected to the oil pump?

I have the same unit. It's currently set up for 110V but I want to switch eveything on the furnance to 220V (mostly want the blower on 220.). So does that ignitioin transformer need to be changed? How about the pump motor can it get set for 220V like a blower motor can? If not I guess I can run a separate cirucit (or just a neutral) and the burner can stay at 110 with the blower on 220.

I have also seen a trend with a plastic housing capacitor is a start cap only while the metal ones are run caps or start & run. Also, yes the run capacitor gains heat as it is working the entire run time and is filled with an oil or oil paste to help dissipate heat. I have a vent hood over my range cooktop that just quit. It had the wiring diagram on a nice big label. All line voltage off one leg has to run through it to make the motor run even wit a 3 speed switch that pick one of 3 coil windings. The resistance values are given for each wire making judgment of the motor easy. Also allow for +/- 5% roughly as resistance changes with the coil temp. Copper wire has low resistance when cold allowing high current (amps) to flow but quickly drops as it warms up. This is called “In-Rush” current. Nice short video. ASE auto tech retired

I thought the Baro-damper adjusts chimney draft, and the air shutter on the pump area adjusts the over-fire draft. No? If so, would you adjust the pipe damper 1st, and then the air shutter second? Thanks for your video.

there is also a screen in the pump housing.. if you test your pump pressure and if the gauge goes down over 20 percent, you have a leak in the line or the regulator is leaking by. better start looking for a new pump..

- Can the draft be set without the gage?