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Frederick Kosier
Добавлен 27 апр 2020
How to wire the 240 volt line side of an a/c condensing unit
In this video you will see how to wire in the 240 volt line side of an a/c condensing unit
Просмотров: 77
Видео
Three Light Bulbs in a Parallel Circuit Controlled by a Switch
Просмотров 240Год назад
This video will show how to wire three 60 watt light bulbs in a parallel circuit. It covers the four needs in an electrical circuit. A power source, a switch, a load, and a conductor.
Wiring in a 120v relay coil HVAC
Просмотров 4,3 тыс.2 года назад
Intro to how to draw a wiring diagram for a 120v relay coil
Drawing a 24v relay circuit in HVAC
Просмотров 3152 года назад
Intro to drawing a 24v relay to power a 120 v lightbulb
Wiring a 24v coil contactor HVAC
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.2 года назад
Intro to wiring a 24v contactor to power a 120v lightbulb
Using a Pinch Off Tool To Change a Pressure Switch
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.2 года назад
Using a Pinch Off Tool To Change a Pressure Switch
Swaging and Flaring Demonstration HVAC
Просмотров 11 тыс.2 года назад
Swaging and Flaring Demonstration HVAC
Checking the Cad Cell On an Oil Furnace
Просмотров 22 тыс.2 года назад
Checking the Cad Cell On an Oil Furnace
Checking the Ignition Transformer on an Oil Furnace
Просмотров 3,3 тыс.2 года назад
Checking the Ignition Transformer on an Oil Furnace
Checking Low Voltage Output Of The Primary Control
Просмотров 5102 года назад
Checking Low Voltage Output Of The Primary Control
How refrigeration service valves work
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.3 года назад
How refrigeration service valves work
How refrigeration manifold gauges work
Просмотров 663 года назад
How refrigeration manifold gauges work
I dont understand what height the copper should be in the block
In swaging, od (outer diameter) +3mm. In flaring od/3
Thanks man...Funtastic ...good job!
Just to confirm, when the need is moving from zero to the right, that is for negative pressure?
When replacing the primary is it plug and play or do you have to program it?
Hahahaha! You Ice Machine guys are something else man. My business partner is an ice machine guy and he’s a little wild too.
I use the pinch off tool with someone is banging ok on the bathroom door. 😊
Does the 24 V side of this switch get its power from the W terminal when the heat comes on? I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Someone has wired mine to get 24V from the Y terminal when the AC is on which makes no sense at all. Now 24V is not getting through this fan limit switch and through the thermal switch on the blower and finally making its way all the way back to terminal 1 of the Honywell Intermittent Igniter which turns the gas valve on for full burning operation. The igniter is a 24V system so if your fan limit switch happens to be a system where 110V AC is running through both sides of the fan limit switch, the limit side has to step down to 24V at some point with the 110 V / 24v AC transformer to shut the gas off if things get too hot.
I don't know much about motors but would appreciate your advice... I would like to get a 1/4 hp motor for continuous use. I would be running this motor all day, everyday for long time. I'm making a rock tumbler & using it to tumble rocks. This will be running for weeks at a time 24 hour a day. I don't know if I need a single phase motor. Or if there are motors with built in fans within the motor to keep it cool? I heard Dayton or Marathon motors are good. Any advice Or input on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks 😎
I would think you would want something with lower rpm’s I don’t know how fast rocks are supposed to be tumbled. A 220 volt motor would be more energy efficient and hold up longer than a 120 volt motor. Maybe even CSIR ( capacitor start induction run ) this would have more starting torque since I assume it would be kind of a heavy load.
@frederickkosier2508 Thanks for responding. I'll consider your advice. Rocks are heavy! Other people on RUclips are running a split phase 1/4 hp motor 1725 rpms, with 2 or 3 row teers, 36 inches long. Barrels are rolling on 5/8" to 3/4" bars with pulleys & pillow block bearings. I heard split phase motors are good for this, especially running in your home... more efficient. What is your advice on this type of motor?
Awesome!
Question. I have a Beckett AFG. It has a .065 70B nozzle. The pump was factory set at 156. I need to drop the pressure down to a hundred so I can lower the BTU. Its 83000 and is to much. I only need 45k btu. Using a .50 nozzle will get me to 53k. The furnace has never ran long enough to really warm and keep it that way. Short cycles. I have the low fire baffle that came with it. Does that sound right?. .50 nozzle and lower pressure to 100. I have to figure out if I need a 80a or 70b. The head is Fo and the burner am AFG
70b is the spray angle. If your furnace came with a 70b, DO NOT use another angle. You can however drop down to a .5 if you want but air ratio will need adjustment
I knew air would need to be adjusted. Along with pump pressure. I have to have someone come out because I don't have the equipment to adjust. I've adjusted by eye looking in the barometric damper with a flashlight and smoke test, but I need the gear to do it right. I really need to switch to propane. Oil is just too expensive, and I can get a 96 percent efficient propane that's so much smaller. 2 stage
Thank you
How do you actually check the output? My boiler isnt always coming on. Usually if I hit reset it fires up but sometimes it hums. If I hit the transformer it fires up. Weird. How do you check if its going bad?
I am seeing very low voltages (23v) where there should be 124 volts (above blue wire) . I see 124 on orange. The switch appears to work. Does that mean my limit switch is bad or is it something else. I have an older 1978 era furnace/ac. It was working fine earlier in the week, now it's doing this. I am having to run it on fan to heat the house as the Auto setting does not work.Thanks for any help. I'm pulling my hair out.
You would read 0 volts or close to it on the orange wires above due to it being a switch. You would read 120 volts on blue wires until the furnace heats up enough and the switch closes then you would read 0 volts across blue wires and the fan would come on. Sounds like the switch isn’t closing to bring fan on
I'm trying to fix my boiler and think the cad cell may be the issue. If I hit reset the boiler fires and runs fine. After it shuts down it won't come back on unless I hit reset again. I tried checking cad cell like this but I get nothing. With the transformer closed and the cad cell wires disconnected I get no reading at all. With the transformer open I'm getting like 6.9-7 k I believe. Anyone know what this means?
Would have been much neater if you swapped the relay coil and contact positions.... Look at it again... Much neater swapped... Easier to study, even as simple as it is.
For sure a nice and clear instruction video! My question is what type of oil do you use as I can't find any reference on the internet to what oil is suitable for this?
If you have a little refrigerant oil handy that’s probably the best. Otherwise you can use god old zoom spout. It is a very minimal amount so it will not affect the system.
Ok, thanks in dutch that's sewingmachine oil :-) Many thanks agian! @@frederickkosier2508
The oil he using is for rust
Hi, I am using the same swaging tool as you've got there, and I'm struggling to do the 1/4" tubing. My 3/8" comes out beautiful like in your video here, but I can't seem to get the 1/4" to stick out of the block far enough for it to swage nicely, even with the tool backed all the way up. My swages end up way too shallow to work properly, and it seems to crush the tubing against the block. Any tips?
Line is white load is black?
Hello awesome video. Can you make a video on how to build this setup you have here?
I have some questions if you find a few minutes to spare.
if the incoming low voltage to the contactor was somehow less than 24v….say 20v….could the contactor work. Or is 24v the absolute threshold amount to it functioning?
One of the best videos of flaring that I've watched ! Should have 1000s of views !!!! Really liked the nickel tip..thank you
Straight to the point, no bullshit, nice and short, well explained, and great demonstration.. GREAT VIDEO
U r the greatest instructor. Like your video,what’s your contact email please?
Cool video man. Thinking I have a faulty one. Old 30 year old trane that hasn’t had maintenance. This video helped 😅
Good video. Basic settings adjustment by why do you want to play with the pressure?. Recommended 100psi? Is there math behind that? I'm running 135 on a .75 or .70 nozzle with 140k iBTU input box on a Beckett AFG. My flue measurements are spot on with max efficiency.
No squirrel cage on that motor shaft?
When a furnace kicks on and theirs a fume smell but goes away. Would a barometric damper be affecting that?
What if it doesn't and gets so bad that your coughing up a lung in your bed room? What if the the valve has cold air from outside blowing back through it? Kevin Adams the guy who installed it denies that is possible but I can prove he's wrong and he refuses to fix it instead asking me how to fix it.
You may want to consider doing wiring examples on a working unit. As a student, those wiring trainers are confusing after looking at actual production units.
That motor is definitely shot lmao
My limit switch side is bad(open) on an old ge furnace. I can't find the part. What options do I have?
Is there an aftermarket one or maybe look on eBay? Older parts are definitely getting harder to find. Even newer parts are getting hard to get.
@@frederickkosier2508 yes, an aftermarket would be good. Just matching up to one is hard. Could I just get one that extends the same length?
You would want to make sure all specifications match
Most pump’s aren’t 100psi, the larger the nozzle the lower the pressure.
Incorrect. Most oil burner pressures for boilers are currently set at 120 psi not 100psi and never less. Always check the manufacturers recommendations
Omg you saved me I have had two different companies look at my furnace and one guy made it back fire !! Now I know the issue and I'm done paying guy to play a guessing game!
Yout much better than my instructor
Sir the 10k reading was your body resistance. You can't have your fingers on the probes.
@@frederickkosier2508 You stated the high 10k resistance was due to the CAD " seeing darkness". That's incorrect. It's just the opposite. Light increases resistance. The brighter the light the higher the resistance. The dimmer the light the lower the resistance until total darkness causes the CAD to "open" and resistance goes to infinite. Since your burner was not fired up, the resistance reading through the CAD should have been VERY LOW. Probably under 50 ohms if some faint room light got to it. Otherwise in darkness it should show "open". You got a reading of 10k. So the only place such an egregiously false reading could have come from was from a defective CAD or by you introducing your body's resistance into the measurement by holding onto the wire leads of the CAD. 10k body resistance is not "negligible" when you are dealing with a CAD that responds in resistance variations ranging from "thousands or tens of thousands". Check your body resistance by grabbing one of the meter leads in each hand. You will read around 10k. Unless your hands are very dry. Then properly check the resistance reading of the CAD without your hands not touching anything but the insulated part of the meter leads. You will read very low to infinite resistance depending on whether the CAD is in complete darkness or not. If you checked an open 10k resistor the way you checked the CAD, the meter would read 10k and you would say the resistor is good and chase your tail looking elsewhere for the problem when the resistor was the problem all along.
@@TheNYgolfer The cad cell is made from a cadmium sulfide coated ceramic disk with a conductive grid over its surface. Electrodes are attached to this surface, and the cell is sealed in glass to protect it. The cad cell in darkness has a very high resistance to the flow of electrical current. Yet, in the presence of visible light, it has a very low resistance.
👍
Can I use these to add and remove refrigerant? Or would I only use that to check pressures?
Is it better to wait until you have a steady stack temp then measure draft or it doesn't matter??
Oldie but goodie
So what would be the point of front seating either valve when the system is running? Or is there ever a time when you would want to?
ty man your channel saved me cash...my furnace blew soot through whole oil system covering the light censer with black film from soot. wiped it off and it stayed on it was shutting down after a min ..but i m covid broke and couldnt pay a guy to come ....thanks again friend
Where can i buy a draft tester, something like yours, also i do adjust my oil furnace by just looking at the fire and inside pipes, and damper unit, what/how do you think doing it without the tester?
Yes
So how do you know if the cad cell is working properly? What is the normal reading when it’s running because you never had a flame or explain what the normal reading should be. At what point is it good or bad?
Why do you have the gauge on that end of the jet line? Shouldn’t it be on the other side so it’s connected to the oil pump?
The gauge is on the pump. The pressure that it reads is pump pressure. It’s a gravity fed system so you are reading what the pump is doing.
@@frederickkosier2508 it seems like the gauge is on the other end of the nozzle how is there any pressure at all
@@shawnmurphy3693 the pump creates the pressure and pushes the oil through the tube to the nozzle where it is atomized and ignited. If you have pump pressure your nozzle should be spraying unless the filter on the nozzle is clogged or the nozzle tip itself is clogged up
I have the same unit. It's currently set up for 110V but I want to switch eveything on the furnance to 220V (mostly want the blower on 220.). So does that ignitioin transformer need to be changed? How about the pump motor can it get set for 220V like a blower motor can? If not I guess I can run a separate cirucit (or just a neutral) and the burner can stay at 110 with the blower on 220.
The pump motor and transformer are all 120 volts. This also sends power to the blower motor. If you run a separate circuit just for the blower motor to make it 220 then nothing is telling the motor to turn on and off. I don’t think that would work
@@frederickkosier2508 I opened it all up. Thanks to your video and another on the bimetal temp switch I knew exactly what was what. I can add a 120 coil relay for the blower (blue from temp switch goes to 120 coil) and thus keep oil pump and control box on 120 but the blower at 240.
I have also seen a trend with a plastic housing capacitor is a start cap only while the metal ones are run caps or start & run. Also, yes the run capacitor gains heat as it is working the entire run time and is filled with an oil or oil paste to help dissipate heat. I have a vent hood over my range cooktop that just quit. It had the wiring diagram on a nice big label. All line voltage off one leg has to run through it to make the motor run even wit a 3 speed switch that pick one of 3 coil windings. The resistance values are given for each wire making judgment of the motor easy. Also allow for +/- 5% roughly as resistance changes with the coil temp. Copper wire has low resistance when cold allowing high current (amps) to flow but quickly drops as it warms up. This is called “In-Rush” current. Nice short video. ASE auto tech retired
I thought the Baro-damper adjusts chimney draft, and the air shutter on the pump area adjusts the over-fire draft. No? If so, would you adjust the pipe damper 1st, and then the air shutter second? Thanks for your video.
@@joequillun7790 I tell you this ,that i don't even have any tester, i just use my knowledge and eyes to set the adjudgments , i am not exact, but close enough, i service/repair my oil furnace for the last 20 years, the most important things are service/clean the furnace regularly, and right nozzle and check( look) the fire to see burning right, a fire should burn clean, but a little smoke is ok.
@@palangnar3588 OK, thanks for your opinions, and replies. :)
there is also a screen in the pump housing.. if you test your pump pressure and if the gauge goes down over 20 percent, you have a leak in the line or the regulator is leaking by. better start looking for a new pump..
You are correct.
- Can the draft be set without the gage?