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To remove the sanding marks and haze, I normally use something like a Meguire's Mirror Glaze #6 then move to a #2 before using a carnuba wax for the final polish.

@@s7customguitarsCan I use a medium cut rubbing compound?

@fenderjin4900 Yes. In the video if I remember correctly I used a medium cut compound (pretty close to the #6) then a mild cut before using the polish. All you are doing to get the polish finish is cutting the scratch marks out with smaller scratch marks until they are not visible or tangible. So if the medium cut isn't working then go slightly more aggressive. Then go back to the medium.

@bikersoncall did it happen directly after you switched it on? Was it working and it fell out while you were playing?

@@s7customguitars It's difficult to know for sure, I was using it and changing guitars etc, was working great , then probably after switching on again is when I noticed the drastic change.

@cromwellg60 Not a silly question at all. As long as you don't let it set in one place and scorch the wood, you won't have any issues. If you notice, I keep it moving when pointed at the neck. That is to try to keep the scorching at a minimum, and it keeps hot spotting down. If there is a spot that is being cantankerous, leave it for a bit, then come back to it.

@@s7customguitars thanks for getting back to me really appreciate it. Would it worth me using a hair dryer instead? I figured it might heat a bit more evenly. I have a heat gun too but it’s VERY hot.

@aphexltd no, maple is pretty structurally sound and it is already dried to, at most, 7% moisture. Most times, it's even drier than that. As for the truss rod, I don't let the heat penetrate the neck enough to get to it. This method is only about heating the surface enough to make the finish soften and expand on itself. Even with the putty knife I use, I am not gouging into it so as not to gouge the wood. It is only there to "push" the finish off after it pops. I have even used this method on necks with glued on fretboards and not had issues with the glue giving way. It is all about controlling the direction of the heat. Keep it moving and keep it superficial.🙂

@aphexltd yes it will. The strength is in the wood. Not the finish. God luck and be careful. I would suggest getting a cheap used guitar that you could use as a guinea pig too practice on so you get a feel for it if you can.

@bigkahuna100 thank you! I really enjoyed working on this one. Plus the foundation I made it for holds a special place in my heart so it was a very meaningful build for me.

I am in KC. I have done a couple Chiefs themed and a Royals themed guitar so far. I've also done a Kansas City theme. I haven't had the opportunity for the Current yet but I would definitely not rule it out. I would also like to do a Monarchs theme at some point.

@petedazer3381 I did it to a natural camphor body several years back. I wish they would let me post a Pic in the comments but they won't. It turned out great and I used a total of about 6 ounces of thin C/A.

I am working no a Telecaster type build right now. When I get to the wiring, maybe in a week or so, I will try to see if I can get enough camera angle in it to show how I do that work. It is really hard to get those angles but if I can, you'll see that the principles are the same. The work is just a bit more delicate do to the proximity of the work.

My soldering station is an old school Weller WTCPK that was a military surplus piece. This is like mine. www.ebay.com/p/1104087066?iid=225477521266 For working on guitars that you need to heat the pits quickly, I recommend something that is at least 40 watts but 60 is better. Amazon sells several that will do the job well such as this one. YIHUA 939D+ Digital Soldering Station, 75W Equivalent with Precision Heat Control (392°F to 896°F) and Built-in Transformer. ESD Safe, Lead Free with °C/°F display (Black) a.co/d/0hu0f16z

Thank you!! I used a regular mono output jack and a mini SPST switch. I drilled the hole for the output jack in the back and the switch is in the top. I parallelled the hot wire from the speaker to the jack. Next, I moved the ground wire from the speaker to the middle lug of the switch. From the one outside lug of the switch, I ran a wire to the ground on the speaker. From the remaining lug, I ran it to the sleeve lug on the jack. If I had it to do over, I would have used a jack that has a built-in switch that automatically switches when plugging in the extension. I will also say that using the bigger speaker will drain the batteries much faster so keep it plugged in. I have been able to use this little amp with a 2x8 cab run at 4 ohms, which is what the original speaker is.

Thank you for the very detailed, and very thoughtful response. Super helpful.

I will change the frets. The glue finish is done before the frets are installed.

First, thank you! For the minor tear out, I normally will wait until I get the new frets in it. In this case, the new 68118 frets are big enough to completely cover it. If it weren't, then I would use some maple sawdust to fill the space and use a drop of C/A to set it in place. Once it is dried, shave it back down to the surface of the fretboard.

It can be stained when it's stripped. I did stain it afterwards but didn't get it on video since I was having camera issues. I was going for more of a natural wood look so the stain I used was pretty subtle overall. Then I finished it with a CA glue coating before installing the frets.

@@s7customguitars thank you! Is there anyway of removing the lacquer on the fretboard without removing the frets?

@Hello_there_obi if it is lacquer, you can use acetone to strip it. Gender and G&L as well as these no name companies will typically install the frets before spraying the poly. In theory, you could probably strip it without pulling the frets but I have never tried it to be honest. The heat gun could cause some issues with the metal and wood expansion and make the frets lift. In my opinion, I would not try it.

I have them on several of mine. Both OFR and Special models. I have found that on the special models, cleaning the female threads with a tap still makes the brass fine tuner screws turn smoother.

Well... you know, inflation is taking its toll. Lol

Shi-schon: Half Shi-tzu half Bischon. All heart and truly man's best friend. 😀

5mmx0.8

You are correct. I should not have said cast. I should have said forged then stamped. My bad.

@@s7customguitars All good, you had me looking at mine wondering what all the marks were. They do look cast. I was second guessing where I got my information. Thanks for confirming. The 1000 looks similar to the OFR. The OFR has sharper corners.

@qua7771 if I am correct, these are forged plates that are hot stamped into shape. There were some models like the FR2 and the JT-6 that were cast plates. They are very distinct in that they didn't try to clean rough casting surface off of it but left it as the finish. Even some of the other ones that Schaller made back in the early nineties with the replaceable knife edges were cast. Those are a bit of a different animal, though.

@@s7customguitars Thanks for sharing that information. I know from building engines, that I could tell a cast crankshaft from a forged one by tapping on it. The forged ones would ring like a bell. The cast ones sounded dead. That said the FR 1000's are hardened stamped sheet steel. We know that sheet metal resonates, but I'm not sure in what way it's different than forged. The Germans seem to be meticulous about metallurgy.

To be honest, I haven't been inside one or even played one. Everything that i have read about them does say that they are hardwired true bypass. One way to tell for sure is to put it in a signal chain with a BMP or a Fuzz Face. Those pedals don't really like the buffers much.

The one that I used in the video was an Amazon buy and I think it was about $10 or $12 after shipping, IIRC.

I can try. What is the model?

Orner Cyrin Fatboy

Sorry Boss, I did some looking and I can't really find any information on that model. I am not for sure what to look for if I don't have in in my hands or a schematic to look at. Wish I had a better answer for you.

This set should do the trick for you. It's the same basic set that I use but mine is Irwin instead of Kobalt. I also bought my set at Lowe's. www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-12-Piece-Metric-Tap-and-Die-Set/5013371449

@@s7customguitars Looks like the Floyd fine tuners are M5 .8. Thanks so much for your help! This is exactly what I needed.

Just went to the shop to double-check. It's 5mm-0.8 @paulwebendorfer5627

Thank you! I can't say for sure, but I think they do have the same thread pitch and diameter. The issue with the difference in the amount of tuning adjustment has to do with the shape of the saddles. Once the bottom hits the plate, you have maxed it out.

You are right..I didn't even think about the bottoming out. I had seen a listing for the Gotoh fine tuner screws online and they said "these do not fit Floyd Rose tremelo baseplates"..so I just commented here..but I do have the Gotoh 1996T on 2 of my guitars ad they work great. Thanks for commenting.​@@s7customguitars

I have used them before and still do but only on necks that I plan to re-finish. Too much worry about scratching the finish on thos one. I know it's already beat up bit I didn't want to do any more visual damage. All of the minor year out was covered by the 58118 frets I installed.

that's great, my licensed G saddle also caved in a very tiny bit, before it's too late my workaround was to lubricate where the string touches the saddle with a pencil, helped a lot I think. Every now and then I do the same

You are very welcome.

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.

To get actual OFR saddles, go to Floydrose.com. parts page. They are $13-16 each depending on finish and you will need 2 of each size per bridge. You can also buy some aftermarket stainless sales on Amazon but I really cannot talk to how good they are. I have never tried them.

You are very welcome. Again, I am only showing what I found works for me.

I hope so. I have one that I will be ordering the stainless sales for, too. I haven't ever had any string slip on any of mine, though. A few of my older Jacksons with the licensed by Floyd Rose bridges had some problems but none of my OFR's, 1000's, or even my Specials. They have all held well for me and I have almost a decade in one of the Specials.

@@s7customguitars mine got it from 2015, I experience this around year 2022. I think it's worn out. So I need to change it.

I would need to see a clear close up picture of the board to be sure but on mine, the red and black wires to the battery are the two on the left side of the main plug on the circuit board as you are looking at it with the pot pointing up.

I actually figured it out. Upon closer examination I was able to see the post where the spot of solder was left behind. I resoldered and it works! Thanks for getting back. @@s7customguitars

ruclips.net/video/T5AQIp2-B9k/видео.htmlsi=VodKZxeJHmWTf4O3

Thank you! I enjoy doing these, and though I never get them perfect, they're meant to be light-hearted and just fun.

Yes he does. Lol he's quite the character too.

Glad it helped you!

Thank you! Merry Christmas to you too!

Hubba Hubba!

I haven't ever had a problem with them eating strings. I've been using them for almost 10 years on one of my guitars and have never had an issue on that instrument. As long as you pull them snug before you lock them down they work wondefully.

Definitely be sure to wear at least an N95 mask. I normally wear a paint respirator and also don't let the vapors hit your eyes. It burns for sure.

That one was older but the one I play through is a 2004, I think. Rev. F, if my memory serves me correctly. The buffer section hasn't changed since it's inception. I believe the process is a bit different on the mini Wah. I think it is SMD instead of through hole.