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Sorry, not 'gold'...i meant 'hold'

It's a Nikko G Nib :) it has a great balance between flexibility and stiffness. If you want even more flexible, you can try the Zebra G nib

The fine nib on this pen is definitely a bit scratchy, you'd probably need at least a medium to get the smoothness you want. You would probably want to buy a micro-mesh sanding kit to smooth out the nib. You could also get a Pilot Falcon instead, it's somewhat similar and is a much smoother writing experience.

King Huynh the 3776 is a pen known for having feedback. (On purpose). It would feel more scratchy than a TWSBI Eco. I have a couple Ecos, which I love. I also have a Pilot Custom 823 that actually feels too smooth to me. I’d rather feel the pen on the paper. The 3776 has that feeling to me.

It has done fine, not even a hint of springing the nib. But I guarantee most people will say I am still pushing too hard so ultimately just stay within your comfort zone.

Thanks for that, makes me way better after watching the vid.

Google "malleability of metals and alloys". I don't know the composition of the nib exactly, but malleability explains why it flexes so well and will explain why a century old pen will work the best, well plus the absence of plastics. Oh and notice both tines are flexed equally, "the nib is held squarely", being "off square" is what bends or "springs" a nib, really.

In my opinion even though the pen has the soft fine nib it doesn't feel springy to me with normal writing, and it takes enough pressure to get more line variation that it doesn't just flex out with normal writing or even on down strokes unless you intentionally flex it a bit. Since that's the case, why would Platinum create a soft version of their nib if it weren't meant to add any line variation at all? I haven't noticed any quality loss at all in my use, and feel that where I'm pushing it in the video is completely okay for the pen. I'm sure my nib may last less time than someone who doesn't flex theirs at all because that force has to affect the nib, but I imagine that time is negligible because I keep it within its limits. This post from Richard Binder about flexing nibs is really good to keep in mind when feeling out where to push a nib: www.richardspens.com/?page=ref/ttp/disaster.htm In the end I think it really comes down to this: if you respect the pen and have confidence in your own ability to handle it, you won't need to worry about ruining it. And I'd say the best way to gain confidence in using an expensive fountain pen would be practicing with a hard to use and super flexible dip nib like the Leonardt Principal. If you can handle using those you can handle any fountain pen.

@@josephrapier354 i needed to hear that. thank you for this. may i wonder is your opinion still the same? is the nib still functioning well after two years?

I fall into the school that believes this is totally not a calligraphy nib and is not designed to flex like it shows here. I have this nib on a 3776 Laurel (gorgeous pen) and if I want flex like this I go to my Pilot pens with the FA nib or maybe my Pilot Falcon for some mild line variations. I think that over the years more and more enthusiasts have moved away from pushing “soft” nibs beyond their design perimeters. Lovely penmanship BTW.

i want to purchase this

@Jude Chandler idfk bro I commented this 3 years ago

"Nice oen and all, but id practise with your handwriting first" His handwriting is fine but your spelling, capitalization and punctuation sucks.

@@mgann8560 got him lol 🤣

Thanks for the tip! I really like the nib too, it is so smooth compared to other nibs. I love that solid feel it has too! I never feel like I need to be careful with it.

Thank you!

Start with an alphabet you like! I used this book to learn Spencerian script: archive.org/details/NewSpencerianCompendium. Iampeth also has a ton of free books for different styles you can check out: www.iampeth.com/rare-books. Once you find an alphabet you like, practice each letter until you feel like it is very close to the original. Study the individual strokes that make up each letter and notice how you use the same strokes over and over to make the entire alphabet. Then learn how to connect the letters properly to make words. The book will have lots of words that show you this. If you need supplies and are on a budget, get these: Pen holder: www.paperinkarts.com/spdobl.html Walnut Ink: www.paperinkarts.com/danwal.html (for practice) Iron Gall Ink: www.paperinkarts.com/oldwor.html (for your projects) Nib: www.paperinkarts.com/nikkog.html (get a few of these) Another nib: www.paperinkarts.com/princi.html (super flexible, but harder to use) Paper: Bristol board from your local crafts shop works great. Some printer papers work well but are hit or miss. The rule of thumb is higher whiteness means better for calligraphy. This paper will always work but is pricier: www.paperinkarts.com/rh1860.html If you have money to spend, this is the pen holder I use: www.paperinkarts.com/hourgl.html Hope that helps!

Thank you so much!!

Yeah they are much nicer after you carve the feeds so they can handle the ink flow. I'm too scared to carry my Noodler's pens on me as is, let alone eyedroppering them! They're not the most well sealed, tight fitting pens. ruclips.net/video/B1kWIUkVXPM/видео.html That video tells you how to carve your feeds.

Thanks for the link. I would never eyedropper a pen when it is known that they can gush ink. Considering how long it takes to hand-write things, nobody wants to have their work ruined because of something like that, and then to have to re-write the work. I'll try the feed adjustment and see how it goes. Thanks again.

Ha I've heard that before ;)

I have the pilot falcon SF too, it is definitely a bit softer with a tiny bit more line variation (but not much more). It's not much of a difference in that respect. The pilot does have a much smoother writing experience than the platinum which has a feedbacky nib. If you prefer smoothness then go for the pilot, the platinum feels a lot different than most pens. And know that neither of these will flex nearly as much as your konrad!

Thanks for the response, I definitely don't do big spencerian stuff in my daily life, I just liked a soft nib that was able to create some character in my normal handwriting, mostly liked the ability to write a bolder font for headers in notes and then back to fine normal writing., something the noodlers nib did well, but did require a little more force than before, and was a tad rougher than I like. Right now my smoothest pen is a restored 1945 schaffer 14k with a semi-soft fine nib, but I want something even softer and newer that I can knock around without guilt. I do like a toothier nib, how toothy would this compare to a steel noodlers flex nib (which is very toothy)?

It will be very hard to beat your Sheaffer! In the price range you're looking at these are definitely your best options. I would describe the platinum as a "smooth toothy." It doesn't catch on the paper like the noodler's does when flexing, but has this slight gritty sort of feel on the paper. It sounds like you would be fine with it. The other option you have is a Karas Kustoms pen with a titanium nib option, which will be $140 usd: www.gouletpens.com/karas-kustoms-ink/c/434/?sortBy=productName+asc&facetValueFilter=Tenant~Overall_weight_range%3A30-39g. Those pens are solid metal so you can really beat those up. Beyond that the prices start getting fairly steep.

Glad you like it :) and haha no I don't know Michael Sull personally, though I hope to meet him one day!

:)

Thanks! The music is Clean Soul by Kevin MacLeod. Here's a link: incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1300033.

Hey! I think the best way is to start at Iampeth's website and choose a book you want to study, and drill on the alphabet from that book. First start with individual letters and practice them until you feel they are pretty similar, and then learn how to connect the letters properly and make words. You could learn this from any of the books at this link: www.iampeth.com/rare-books? so there is no going wrong! Also, read the book too. Usually these books will have a breakdown for every single letter and every single stroke to make that letter so you can really see how the script is formed from the same basic strokes over and over, which will help you be able to picture the correct letters in your head and compare them to what you've written.

How's it coming? Let me know if you need anything!

Joseph Rapier it's coming very fine ...ur videos inspire me a lot following ur instruction for learning individual alphabet first ..it's coming very good

Joseph, I've had trouble getting readable copies from IAMPETH's digital files, even asked for help at the copy shop. They couldn't produce readable copies either. "The Arm Movement Method of Rapid Writing" interests me now, but from experience, i think it won't print out clearly. Are there any secrets to getting readable copies? (Yes, some files are better than others.) Thank you for your video. It's really helpful.

Thanks Andre! And actually my paper is angled around 45 degrees too, I just position the camera so that it is straight for you to watch :) definitely don't try writing with a straight paper, that would get frustrating!

Thanks! I found it on an envelope online Michael Sull wrote to Greg Minuskin. I loved it too and had to learn it! I've been studying for almost 4 years now :) and I'll definitely be posting videos in the future! I know some people are wanting to see more whole arm movement so I plan on making videos to help with that. I haven't figured out what I could make that would be interesting beyond that, definitely open to anything you would like to see!

Thanks!

Hey! It's a #6 B nib :)

ahh thank you :)