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Karl's Projects
Добавлен 15 дек 2014
My interesting electronics projects.
Solder wires from China - Honest Tin Review (Kaina, Kaisa, Jinhu, Mechanics Paste)
In this video, i test KAINA, KAISI, JINHU, Mechanics Paste and some generic solder bought from China. If you find this video useful, please consider hitting the like button :)
More videos coming soon!
Kaina solder -
(100g) (not found on aliexpress)
(450g) (not found on aliexpress)
Seems it is hard to find nowadays! A good alternative is:
Mechanic Solder (100g) - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AKyc85
Mechanic Solder Paste Flux - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AcTmOZ
(Pretty good!)
Jinhu solder - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A5gWxF
(better than most of the bad ones - still useable though)
All links above are affiliate links.
More videos coming soon!
Kaina solder -
(100g) (not found on aliexpress)
(450g) (not found on aliexpress)
Seems it is hard to find nowadays! A good alternative is:
Mechanic Solder (100g) - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AKyc85
Mechanic Solder Paste Flux - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AcTmOZ
(Pretty good!)
Jinhu solder - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A5gWxF
(better than most of the bad ones - still useable though)
All links above are affiliate links.
Просмотров: 10 836
Видео
DIY 35 kmh Electric Skateboard Update | The Sprocket
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.8 лет назад
The next episode will feature new boxes and a non ducktape fixing method :) Here is the first version of the sprocket, that works without major issues. I have drove about 100km with it as of now and it works really well. The new EZRun ESC works too well and im quite happy with this. If you have any questions or requests, comment down below, i will answer them in the next video.
if you think Kaisi is bad try Frizno the motto on the roll is "behold the power of diamonds" Only thing Diamond about it is just like Diamond it does not like to melt, It just turns slushy
Pretty good this brand ..its called (High Quality Solder /Mode A B C/Red label .. I buy it from Temu..Least it flows good an gives very good shine to the joints. I've tried 5 different Chinese brand soldiers that were much like the brands above - without no question the a.b.c brand this one was the best i tried thus far from China.. if anyone needs the \Temu link i can post it.. is a great comparison video Karl...thanks so much!
60/40 solder is only needed in electronics if you're wave or reflow soldering and have heavy components already on the board that you don't want to de-solder. It passes thru a plastic phase while cooling, unlike 63/37, and can be subject to mechanical failure if it is disturbed in this state. I use it for stained glass, not for electronics. Also, solder will fail if you apply a flux that is incompatible with the flux in the solder. Never mix flux types. Solder that is acceptable for electronics will be marked J-STD-006 and/or -001. Flux will be marked J-STD-004 and must be rosin, resin, or organic acid with an activity level of L0 or L1. Any other flux must be completely removed after soldering and shouldn't be used at all on some components, like stranded wire.
u have to try Delixi and jinhu its the best
At least your soldering paste melts, the one i got from China doesnt even melt...
How much are you paying per pound?
People say: almost everything is made in China. Off course, that's no secret. But what is the quality and what does it consist of. That's the question.
I always figured "solder was solder" but I bought a 3 pack of Jinhu 63/37 in different sizes and boy is it junk! The stuff oxidizes immediately upon melting and then wont wick or flow at all into wires or onto traces. It so terrible I don't see how the company isn't being sued for fraud as their product is physically incapable of soldering anything.
Do they sell fake / counterfeit Kaina blue? I noticed on my roll that "Kaina" brand name is actually molded into the white plastic of the spool's bottom, and there was a disposable color Kaina label wrapping the solder, too. Hopefully that means it's authentic.
I tried few versions of Mechanic solders, sx862, hx-100, also 63/37 and 42/58 bismuth pastes. Each solder is very good. Other then the fact that I dont like bismuth, because I often solder leds and they tend to melt bismuth ;D Also, none of those Mechanic pastes grows fungus as easily as other solder pastes (whoever uses lot of paste, knows what I'm talking about). It looks like they are using some anti-fungal additives ;D Anyway, really good quality metal.
I only use Mechanic 63/37 these days. Paste and Wires ranging from 0.3 - 1.0mm. I have only had positive experiences with Mechanic so I see no point in try any other brands anymore. There is alot of junk out there. Some ok also, but when Mechanic is available in so many variant I see no reason to use any other.
I only use bismuth for desoldering because it’s low melt temperature
i have wondering what was up with the chines solder most is jonk been using the solder past the other not shiny and hard to get it to stick my American 60\40 good every time but they wont too much for it like every thing in America they wont a 1000 percent profit!
I have kaisi, it's so fucking bad. Impossible to use, waste of money.
Finally a confirmation of what I experienced. Because leaded solder is hard to get in the EU since around two years, I ordered some cheap 60/40 from ebay and got exactly both that Jinhu and Kaisi rubbish that is impossible to work with. I since then try to use aliexpress instead if possible. Not only because there are reviews and photos, but also because I never received a fake product from there yet.
I have jinhu. I use it in unimportant projects.
2:44 is it a lead free solder?
This is a fucking lead from recycled car battery. Never buy chinese shit from E-bay or Ali. The only products (and only IF they are genuine) are Kaina and Mechanic, but those can be quite expensive and not worth ordering online.
Thank you friend 👍
There's so many grades of Kaina but this blue stuff is my favourite solder also.
Do you have any idea about how long the spool of kaina solder(100g) is?
can you please tell tell me good flux name to remove soldering bridge
kester
Well, I dont see the point in buying solder wire from China, you only saving a coupe of euros. Here in Europe you can get a 500g roll of Multicore 511 for 22 euros from Farnell. Other equally good brands like Felder, Cynel... etc for even less in Reichelt or TME, around 18euros per 500g . That is almost the same price per gram as the Kaina solder, but at least with the brand names I know exactly the type of flux used, and the date of manufacture etc.... Solder paste is another matter though.
thankyou i thought i was going mad my soldiering looks so bad cannot clear bridges solder looks like cement . changed soldiering iron, flux , so i put kaishit in and found your video
As a Chinese, I must admit that the quality of our products is not good. I am a practitioner in the electronics industry and the Jinhu brand is completely rubbish. The garbage that we locals don't use. But it is cheap and so people still buy it.
Yup, the Jinhu stuff i once used when i ran out of the good stuff - it was hard to solder at 400C even...
Karl's Projects Jinhu solder wire is exported to the market at a low price, achieving small profits but quick turnover. It is the so-called one-point price. I use alpha solder wire daily. Jinhu is a garbage
"I must admit that the quality of our products is not good" Well, you guys make good quality stuff too. If you want good quality you have to pay a good price. Cheap stuff sells since cheap people buy them. So can't blame those who make it.
I think you’re not professional. In China, I know few brands are good like White Monkey, strong, youbang, Kaina, mechanic, WTI ETC. for normal maintenance, choose 60/40, 63/37 or 63a {55/45}
I have a small roll of Jinhu 60/40 solder and feel it is ok. I can solder at 320 C. The beads are shiny.
Bought Jinhu and throwed away, I couldn't manage to make a single shine solder with it.
Yup, its a really bad experience... i still use kaina for everything
i had decent results with the jinhu 0.5 2% flux the other day, better than the koocu crap i ordered too.
I have used KOOCU 63/37 0.6mm (0.15in) solder and I don't like it at all It's really foggy and breaks easily So how would that compare to those?
agree, i ordered soome KOOCU aswell as jinhu, the koocu was horrible, very brittle indeed. i personally liked the jinhu way better (particularly the one that says 5mm 63/37 2% flux, model A), i can actually reflow the jinhu stuff if i mess up without it falling apart lol.
It’s fake spec and probably real spec only 20|80
ALPHA TELECORE 63/37 solder is pretty good!
very useful, thx mate
Hello did u ever make the 6s charger im locking to make a 16s15p charcher let me know if you hace done it to see how you did it
Yes, the 6s charger works amazing with the setup i already made a video about. I will try to make a new one as soon as possible. But at the moment im really busy with life - i will try my best though!
cool if u make a new one pleas let me know ty
Just received a roll of Kaina, it seems to work very well, thanks! Too bad the only legit version on ebay is the small 0.5mm spool.
Mechanics Solder wire (aliexpress) is good one as well. but Kaina is tempting after watching your video. Thanks
So many kaina models wonder what they all mean
Low temp mean it contain more lead. Of cource too much lead caused shiny loss.
Nope. Totally incorrect more Sn less temperature more Pb high temperature.
Cool project! How much did you spent on this?
About 350€ and one year of prototyping after school
Thats alot of time and money bro. Im planning on building one too but not sure where to start
start by searching for each part: - Battery (put them in series for more voltage -> more rotations -> more speed) - Motor (use 190kV - 320kV+ (=> rotations/volt)) - Motor and Wheel gear (use a Ratio of ~2.25 - 2.5 (bigger gear (in teeth) / smaller gear (in teeth)) I'm using 36 teeth for wheel and 14 teeth on the motor - Motor belt (calculate the length of it (use -> _Lbelt ~= pi*(R1+R2) + 2*(distance between the focuses of the gear)_ for R1 and R2 use the radius of the gear) => calculate everything in mm with this formula you can also calculate the needed distance between the gears, if you already have a length for the belt. I don't know if the formula exists anywhere, but i figured it out by myself :) , hope this helps) - Board (don't buy a very flexible one, it can have flex, but not like some bamboo boards) - Trucks & Motormount (maybe welding? If so, use full aluminium trucks not casted ones...) - Cables (& Management plans) -> (XT-60 or XT-90 Connectors for the electronics) - ESC (or VESC) (use 120A ones... i'm using a cheap 70A ESC, which causes me some problems and also gets freaking hot) - lots of hot glue - (maybe waterproof) Boxes for electronics - small parts (like Bolts & Washers and never forget the lock tight!!! Vibration is a B****) - radio throttle for speed management (or use a raspberry pi with a WiiRemote (if you want the program just ask me :) , i've calibrated it on my motor, but if you search for PiSkate via RUclips, you'll find one video, where he put down a Github-link in the discription, where you can also find the program for the Pi) Also make plans before you start to build, you have to be very patient, overthink your plans and avoid any upcoming problems and you'll have a ton of fun with that project :) .
Wow man, thanks for that long reply! It really helps me haha :)
Btw, where did you get the sprocket kit?
link of mehanical parts?
Hello, the sprockets are all from ebay, i used 1/4" chain system, on the motor, theres a 10T sprocket and on the wheel there is a bigger sprocket that i dont remember the size of. Everything else is found in local hardware stores.
+Getyormas Projects but please can u give me link
I would give the links, but i ordered them so long ago, i cannot see them on my ebay listings anymore. Sorry.
+Getyormas Projects ok tnx