- Видео 34
- Просмотров 343 614
Jake On Crack
Добавлен 18 янв 2018
Hi I'm Jake - I've moved to Colorado and I'm out here to spray beta, punt the redpoint, and downgrade every route.
Classics of ElDorado: Handcracker Direct
This is the best moderate route in Eldorado Canyon. It takes about 20 minutes to reach it from the parking lot and about 30 minutes to get back to the car. It has at least one pitch that's easy enough for a beginner to get some experience and each pitch has a different crux building up to the 4th pitch namesake handcrack.
0:00 - Yapping Intro
2:00 - Pitch 1 (5.8 Face)
10:00 - Pitch 1 Anchor
15:17 - Pitch 2 (5.9 Corner)
22:00 - Pitch 2 Anchor
24:22 - Pitch 3 (5.7 Offwidth/Exposed)
31:00 - Pitch 3 Anchor
34:00 - Pitch 4 (5.10a Crux)
47:00 - Summit Anchor
53:21 - 4th Class Downclimb
56:30 - The Grove
57:14 - The Descent
0:00 - Yapping Intro
2:00 - Pitch 1 (5.8 Face)
10:00 - Pitch 1 Anchor
15:17 - Pitch 2 (5.9 Corner)
22:00 - Pitch 2 Anchor
24:22 - Pitch 3 (5.7 Offwidth/Exposed)
31:00 - Pitch 3 Anchor
34:00 - Pitch 4 (5.10a Crux)
47:00 - Summit Anchor
53:21 - 4th Class Downclimb
56:30 - The Grove
57:14 - The Descent
Просмотров: 1 444
Видео
Climbing My Anti-Style | Overpass 5.11c
Просмотров 5483 месяца назад
Quick and Nasty double boulder problem. Starts with a V3 rock-over slab and ends with a V3/4 campus and thuggy juggy. Standout 11 route so far in Clear Creek in my opinion! 0:00 - Yapping 0:45 - Climbing Start/Slab Crux 1:55 - Thug Crux 3:15 - 5.9 Slab Exit 5:25 - Anchors
Walking With A Ghost 5.11c | Clear Creek Canyon
Просмотров 5583 месяца назад
This Gneiss slab is probably the best route at Canal Zone. Jeni joins me today to project it as it's great for both of us at our slab limit levels. Ended up going on the 3rd try with a strong reach to the pockets around both 5-6. So hot and sweaty I almost lost it on the slimy jug left of the 5.10 exit bolt. 0:00 - Route Intro 0:30 - Real Climbing Starts 4:00 - Crux Entry 7:00 - Crux Exit 7:45 ...
Classics of Eldorado: Blind Faith 5.10a
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.4 месяца назад
Whew! This took ages to get together with all the trips, training and climbing the past month. Handcracker direct is next but enjoy this quite romp up the West Face of The Bastille. 0:00 - Intro 00:51 - Base of the West Face 2:00 - Pitch 1 Start 11:45 - Pitch 1 Crux 14:20 - Building Pitch 1 Anchor 18:20 - Pitch 2 Start 28:30 - Pitch 2 Top 29:42 - Bastille Descent
Classics of Eldorado: The Yellow Spur 5.9+
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Full run up the Redgarden Wall's Yellow Spur. Sharpen up your feet for a really wicked route featuring the coolest arete runout in Eldorado. FA: Layton Kor, Dave Dornan 1959 FFA: Robbins, P Ament 1962 (ish?) 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Pitch 1 10:40 - Pitch 2 17:00 - Pitch 3 28:15 - Pitch 4 39:22 - Pitch 5 44:00 - Crux 48:00 - Robbin's Traverse 5.7 R 54:00 - Summit Arete 60:00 - See ya!
Spinal Tap 5.11d | Climbing in Clear Creek Canyon
Просмотров 3285 месяцев назад
This 11d is going to feel a lot harder than any of the 12a climbs nearby, especially when its nearly 90 degrees out and completely baked by the sun! 0:00 - Yapping 0:40 - Start 2:20 - Lower Crux 11b/c 3:10 - Upper Crux 11d or 12a 4:00 - Anchors
Clear Creek Canyon Climbing: Badgersaurus 5.12a
Просмотров 5395 месяцев назад
Simple and short, you are in the crux as soon as you pull of the ground and it doesn't step until you pull past the 5th bolt.
Trad Climbing in Eldorado Canyon: The Unsaid 5.9
Просмотров 7345 месяцев назад
Trad Climbing in Eldorado Canyon: The Unsaid 5.9
Red Rocks Trad Climbing: Grandma's House 5.9+
Просмотров 5776 месяцев назад
Red Rocks Trad Climbing: Grandma's House 5.9
Trigger Finger 5.9+ | Trad Climbing in Garden of the Gods
Просмотров 5186 месяцев назад
Trigger Finger 5.9 | Trad Climbing in Garden of the Gods
The Incredible Crux Chimney of 'Epinephrine'
Просмотров 2 тыс.6 месяцев назад
The Incredible Crux Chimney of 'Epinephrine'
Red River Gorge Trad Climbing: Broken Chicken Wing 5.9+
Просмотров 4906 месяцев назад
Red River Gorge Trad Climbing: Broken Chicken Wing 5.9
Spring Fever 5.10+ Trad Climbing On Retrobolted Routes
Просмотров 2696 месяцев назад
Spring Fever 5.10 Trad Climbing On Retrobolted Routes
Shelf Road Trad Climbing: Sick of Tradition 5.8 - Passive Gear Only!
Просмотров 5296 месяцев назад
Shelf Road Trad Climbing: Sick of Tradition 5.8 - Passive Gear Only!
Shelf Road Trad Climbing: Smokin' Crack 5.10b
Просмотров 1856 месяцев назад
Shelf Road Trad Climbing: Smokin' Crack 5.10b
Red River Gorge Trad Climbing: Arachnid 5.8+ Offwidth | OLDSCHOOL
Просмотров 1796 месяцев назад
Red River Gorge Trad Climbing: Arachnid 5.8 Offwidth | OLDSCHOOL
Red River Gorge Trad Climbing: Riptide Ride 5.10c
Просмотров 4347 месяцев назад
Red River Gorge Trad Climbing: Riptide Ride 5.10c
I'd be pissed at my belayer for not taking as soon as it's called
Thanks for sharing
“Do you think a double rack was enough?” Bro, I don’t leave the ground without a double rack. Am I a little bitch?
Climbed this with a long time eldo local. He brought up a small hammer and some water to loosen up a stuck #3 on the crux pitch and get it out. According to him its the 4th #3 hes gotten off that pitch, so your certainly not the only person to get one stuck there
Dude! I’m pretty sure I was next to you when you did this and got Dia right after you lol. Great job! I can hear myself talking about the crux. I’m pretty sure we sent our projects back to back.
Hell yeah! Small world! I'm headed back soon to finish Hellbender, Gravedigger, and City. I want to clean out that whole crag!
@@jakeoncrack yep same hellbender is my project now. I love that crag. I’m trying to avoid going right at the crux since it makes it easier.
People have died on the back half. I witnessed a guy falling off the descent after he rope soloed outer space. Always important to stay vigilant and be safe
Nice job
dang that's sketchy, im lowkey bailing if that happens.
Each little "kick" felt like I was touching a cattle fence. If you haven't had the pleasure it's kinda like somebody punching you in the shoulder out of nowhere. Just fun alpine things!
My favorite routes on the Rincon Wall further up are Over the Hill 5.10, Rincon 5.11, and a couple others...1st pitch of Rincon is a super classic 5.9 + finger crack. Over the Hill has a finger/hand in an awesome steming dihederal, check em out 😉😎
Love these videos- so many eldo climbs are hard to find video beta for
@@langdaly I appreciate that! That's exactly why I do them. Hopefully it opens the door for more and more climbers to get out there.
it would be awesome if you could make some more condensed versions of these climbs, showing the highlights.
@@Ubling7 That would be a great idea, like cruxes, moments and beta breakdown
Joined by Jeni, Skye, and Lincoln - Handcracker Direct rips up Eldorado's West Ridge. The only bother about this route is the hike up but once you're on it it's amazing. Even if you're not quite a 5.10 trad leader you owe it to yourself to get on it. You couldn't ask for a safer climb at this grade.
nice climb
Wait until bro finds out about ladders. Hes gonna be pissed.
Leave it there and others may use it.
Perhaps if it was a fixed nut but anything with soft material degrades quickly in the sun and would not be able to take a fall or safely rappel on. Traditional climbing ethics on multi-pitch is pretty straightforward. If you can remove it, do it, and it's yours.
is that yours ?
It certainly is now! 🏴☠️
It’s tough seeing someone else live out your dream.
Epinephrine?
@@howtowithhank4791 that's right! This is the second pitch which can be done a couple ways but squeezing into the wall is definitely easiest.
Wafer thin fin. Blueys in Australia
First direct pitch of March of Dimes, an Eldo classic but only for the third pitch. I'll have a the full climb uploaded via the more popular Werk Supp in a couple weeks: www.mountainproject.com/route/105750418/march-of-dimes
Just finish the wrong route, you might surprise yourself
almost got a little spicy there...good thing I had a helmet on
hahaha
I think this doesn't get as much traffic because it combines a slab crux and a thug crux right on top of eachother but if one or the other is your style you should really get on it to test yourself in the anti-style!
Great job, looks like a fun route.
No ones gonna see this comment soo I AM GAY
👀
It’s okay to be yourself 🎉
Always making it look harder than it is. This thing is a thuggy tension jug haul...complete opposite of my crimpy balance style. So exciting to put down routes that aren't in my wheelhouse 🎉
hey wat een leuke actie ik ga de zomer beginnen met mijn trad avontuur in de verdon kloof la france dus die zou mijn heel handig uitkomen
Agent Orange, at Hægefjell in Norway.
Zorro in birdsboro quarry
Nice send! 😁
Back to editing - metric ton of footage from the past few weeks to sift through. More from Eldorado Canyon and more 5.12- projecting to come :)
Great climb, enjoyed the commentary as you climbed. Any final verdict if the first or second pitch was more enjoyable?
@@brandalonidoucette6944 First is definitely the best but any chance to just mindlessly stumble up easy 5.5 is great so the second has its charm!
Great Video! Tell Vivian all of her friends in KC say Hello!!! What a surprise seeing her in you tube.
Balcony at subluminal in Swanage, UK - my first trad experience a few weeks ago
you should place it lower so she break a leg... seriously train higher pls
There's bolts as backup - it's plenty high enough.
nutting skills? 🤨
hard to see what was happening in the back of the rock. Looks like she could have placed a bigger wire if it flared in the back and that wasn't just a few crystals in the front she was relying on for the placement to hold.
Big fan of Knob Wall at Cherokee Rock Village Ironically enough I think I only used 1 cam on that whole route.
Wow this made my stomach flip. Glad to hear she wasn't hurt.
some of the starts at eldo make me so nervous man! nice work
Man, I thought this was a 1m view video! Keep it up, brother!
.... yall and cavers just need to get off the planet already.. if you cant entertain yourself without risking some of the worst ways to go.. not to mention when yall mess up and need rescued... risking more lives. for real some of the most entitled and selfish activities to partake in. do something constructive.
I hate when i can't nut 😢
No Jenis were harmed in the making of this video...
There were cracks in the bottom of the rock she placed it in. That why she fell?
@@zorrokitty5666 haha yeah I think so! It stood up to the ole' tug and go test but real weight slipped it right out. She placed much better stuff after!
@@jakeoncrack... yeah the ole tug test isnt a test of anything 😂😂😂 like testing a car jack with a matchbox car😂😂😂😂
Why climb here not in the winter, absolute mad lad haha
Wake to wake at red rock canyon open space
Lost in Space at the Linville Gorge, NC!
Way harder than the 12a's at this wall...I always call this my benchmark for 12a
They’re all 11d
@@charlieizurieta3786 - 11d is harder than 12a. So that would mean these are all 11c.
@@edanner93 I support that!
Man, you've got some of the best climbing content on RUclips right now. Please keep it coming!
I appreciate that a bunch! We're slowly getting better at this thing
Bird of Fire- 10a in J-Tree