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Thank you! And thank you for watching!

Check the battery connections, sometimes you will see some rust, or green corrosion on the spring or metal contacts where the batteries connect. Clean it with Isopropyl alcohol or some very fine sand paper. The other thing to look for is a broken wire, or cracked circuit board if it was dropped. Thanks for watching!

@yoska222 Yeah, okay. Thanks for the clarity. I was thinking handing off broken tools sounds more like being a dumping ground. I had a friend, since passed away, give me a Rigid cordless drill & driver set with case, charger, and 2 5 amp batteries brand new in sealed box. THAT’S what I call a friend. Cheers, and keep on wrenching!

Dudes off his meds

@@TheRegularAlex Which "dude?"

​@@salvadormonella8953we've talked about this Sal. Its not right to go around saying the first thing that pops into your mind because it comes out as incoherent rambling to everybody but yourself. Its not your fault mate, just takes a bit of time and practice. Im always gonna support ya bud, love ya 👍🏼

Could be. Sometimes I ramble. Sometimes I go over people's heads. Frequently sentences will be missing words or constructed poorly. My eyes are pretty bad these days & I can't really read what I type very well. My opinions are generally pretty spot on though, so that's generally good. Cheers!

Ireland is a wonderful country. I visited in the 80's and had great fun. I climbed the Mourne mountains, saw both northern and southern Ireland. The people are EXTREMELY nice! Since it is broken, you have nothing to lose by carefully opening it up and seeing if there is a broken wire, solder connection or some other obvious problem. Good luck with it, they are good tools!

Yes thanks my friend I appreciate it !! I live right at the bottom of the mourne mountains in Northern Ireland near newry !! I’m glad you liked Ireland 🇮🇪 I love America as I lived in New York City in the east village for 20 years I worked in the concrete union 18a that was located in the bronx !! I was working on 23rd street and 10th av , on 911 🙏oh wat a crazy day it was in the city !! Rip everyone 🙏I’m home In Ireland now trying to fix my American tools 😂😂😂take care be well !! Brian ….Newry Northern Ireland 🇮🇪

Thanks for the info KameraShy! X10 is amazing for its time, and like you say, it still works! Very innovative, and likely safer than having wifi IOT things blasting brain sells. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Gracias por mirar, me alegro de que ayudó con su construcción. No estoy seguro de lo que quieres decir con la salida. Creo que es una salida PWM que controla la intensidad del LÁSER.

Glad it helped Carl! Frustrating when you try and find information - and it is not available anymore.

Thanks for watching! I have a stand alone laser I use light burn with. I am not sure if lightburn is compatible with this setup or not. I suspect it will not work with the USBCNC

Hi gfimon, thanks for watching! The video was about the Sculpfun S9 laser module, and there is wiring info in the video. I am using a USB->Stepper/motor control board and the info is in the video. It is pretty straightforward, if you are stuck on a particular issue let me know.

@@stevesfascinations1516 I'm stuck at the wiring it self. Can I contact you by other way than here?

LOL, yes, it is a simple thing, that makes life easier! I have the original SuperHook in my pickup for the items that slide to the cab and are just out of reach. I have two SuperHook Mini's in the shop for things out of reach on the shelves and pegboard, as well as the crap that falls on the floor. Glad you liked it!

Good tip tim hughes! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Hi timcki, I am glad it helped, RUclips is a wonderful way to learn and share!

Thanks Michael, it was a fun build!

Thanks Murray, you will enjoy seeing it in action!

Hi Martin Matjasic, the laser needs 12V, I am not familiar with the CNC Shield, but if it puts out 3.3V, you may want to use that voltage to trigger a FET to switch the 12VDC to the laser.

Hello, Did you find how to wire the S9 laser? What parts do you use to work it? Do you have a wiring diagram? Thank you.

I am glad it helped😁

Sounds like a defective laser or you are changing the pwm over time. I believe the spindle speed can modify the intensity, check to make sure your code does not change the spindle speed in the area that is causing you trouble.

Hi Bill, thanks for watching the video! I was using my machine yesterday and used the auto Z feature several times and it is working perfectly. Let me go out to the shop and see the settings and I will update you. The easy way to test it, is click the auto zero button, and then after it counts down and starts to move, press the button (do not use a bit as you are testing the feature). It should stop and say "Auto Zero Completed" and raise up about .6 of an inch. I will get back to you in an hour or so.

Hi Bill, thanks for the email. In case anyone else is having trouble, here is the mach3 pin setup for the probe: What I have is: Probe <checkmarked green> Port: 3 Pin: 4 Active Low <X> Emulated <X> HotKey: 0

Hi Gary, that is a little vague, what are you having trouble with?

@@stevesfascinations1516 Post processor setup and ports and pins , do u have Messanger we can text from

Do u have a wiring diagram that shows all connections

@@garyparrett8955 Yes! Look at 2:25 there is a diagram in the video.

Hola, no estoy seguro de lo que quieres decir. Hay muchas fotos de la PCB en línea y cómo conectarla.

Hi James, you have to like quality units that are designed for easy repair! Having discrete components with through hole cases makes life so much easier. Don't get me wrong, I love super small compact inexpensive devices, but when they fail they are usually disposable which I hate. I recently had to fix a few Dodge Caravan radios that had a bad solder joint on the radio receiver. It was not hard to fix, but finding the fault was horrible, and not many people I know have a hot air blower to do smd work. Anyways, glad you still have the power suppy and thank you for watching!

@@stevesfascinations1516 Steve, that was near the beginning of my life long journey through electronics, from repair, to telecom, to telecom instrumentation, to RF Spectrum management and interference resolution, to HP Test & Measurement, to Tektronix, to retirement. And now I do it as a hobby.... Never mind through hole, I've got some point to point guitar tube amps, but I've watched surface mount get so fast, the act of probing it, impacts performance. It's been a fun journey, and yet, I still have this great old power supply, I picked up for $3 at a garage sale when out with my dad. It's been a very fun ride!

Ok, I did the calibration and can now adjust intensity. But still not able to use M11 command.

@@nix12m I would think the intensity would be with M3. Wikipedia: The speed of the spindle is determined by the address S, in either revolutions per minute (G97 mode; default) or surface feet per minute or [surface] meters per minute (G96 mode [CSS] under either G20 or G21). The right-hand rule can be used to determine which direction is clockwise and which direction is counter-clockwise. I have a dozen projects on the go so can not help much right now.

@@nix12m This board do not support those commands.

Life got out of control for me, so I have not had time to complete the install. There are wiring diagrams in the video. They are pretty straightforward connections.

Hi Massimiliano Gilli, thanks for watching the video! I am pretty new to lasers. I have experimented with laser diodes with various power levels. I have made PWM controllers and power supplies for them. I was not aware that the freq is supposed to be 1KHz - thanks for letting me know! The PWM allows you to vary the power to the laser by chopping the DC power into pulses. If you increase the voltage you will get more power out of the diode. The diode is rated to 12VDC so that is what I used. I did not think it would be a problem for the control card and I was correct, it works fine.

@@stevesfascinations1516 My point is that Pulses are between 0 and VCC (either 12V or 24V) and not really related to PWM voltage. The PWM can be either TTL (5V) or 12V and what matters is the duty cycle. But i guess we are on the same page. What about the breakout board is it good?

Thank you for watching the video. I am certainly available.

Hi Ramiro Santiago! Thanks for watching the video. If it does not work at all, then you have nothing to lose by taking it apart and seeing if one of the connections is broken off. It may be corrosion on the blades that slide into the battery. I assume you checked with a different fully charged battery? Good luck with the repair, if you find the problem, post it here so others can fix their problems.