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Streptomycin sulfate (mentioned in the video) is an antibiotic.

Kill isn't the right word in managing this pathogen. The cedar apple gall is created by the fungal infection. You can prevent by making the recommended fungicide application spoken about in the video. The main problem is the range at which the fungus can be transported through the air. If one tree has this fungal infections (likely more than just one) the spores can be transported up to 2 miles away to infect other trees. You can only provide control or prevention to the trees that you treat with a fungicide.

It's ded.

Absolutely it could. There is something called "grid soil sampling" that is much more intricate than the simple method we've outlined here.

@@kaycountyosuextension692 The technology from genetics to precision farming is incredible! I appreciate everyone’s efforts…bankers, farmers , industry, and universities. We are truly blessed in the United States with good soil, a good climate, smart people, and cheap transportation.

Yes Definitely! Any disease/damage caused to a plant will reduce yield, and possibly effect the quality of the fruit, but you can still get edible fruit.

@@kaycountyosuextension692 Thank you so much! You are honestly the only people who I have been able to find to answer this question. We planted a Honey Crisp last year before I knew how susceptible it was to disease and we got hit with Rust. Just been worried sick should I just cut it down or should I hang in there to see if I can get edible fruit from the tree. The spraying schedule to try and keep it rust free is untenable for me so to know if I get a bit of rust its okay and I'll still get fruit is a great relief. Thank you again!

Welcome!

It does happen. There is a huge quality difference between the first method and the second method. The thing I don't agree with on the second method is all those wraps at the end. You have three simple bends of the wire and that is plenty. That is the beauty of the second method.

I got so mad when dad had so people build a fence like this. They must have never had to fix a fence. i hate it every time I have to do repairs because I have to cut that end off if I want to stretch from the corner. I guess if cut all the trees down within 50-60ft of the fence it would be better. But the better tasting black cows need shade.

Barbs get in the way, and prevent the knot from cinching down.

I tap mine when I put it on and tap it to take it off. By tap I mean whack. My Golden Rod is the one with the extra hook so I can do continuous pull and is painted blue so Ican find it in the woods. Golden Rod pullers are American made but Atwoods and TSC are now carrying chinese imports. You may have to look hard now for them. Higher profit margin on imports.

I think the answer is it can (key word can not will), but I'd go ahead and cut and treat the sprouted root trees as well.

This was in July. Cut stump treatments are quite effective throughout the year. I have found that using this treatment as the leaves begin to turn in the fall is especially effective. When trees start to go into dormancy the movement of nutrients starts going towards the roots, and that can be a more effective time of year to apply herbicide to a tree that was cut.

Thank you.

I can confirm that this wrap holds tension. Been using it for years. Certainly not as good as brand new unbroken wire, but it will hold sufficient tension.

Very good demonstration Both methods used are very good - have high strength and work on old and new wire. When splicing some will do 5 lazy wraps followed by 3 tight wraps - I find both methods work well. The knot - were I come from is called Donald's Knot

I would speak to someone from Texas A&M Agrilife Extension for Mesquite trees. They do grow in Oklahoma, but are not a critical problem except in far Southwest Oklahoma. Mesquite Ecology and Management - Mentions using Tryclopyr (Remedy) to treat stumps after cutting. agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/landscaping/mesquite-ecology-and-management/ We do have problems with honey locust, but they are not related to Mesquite at least scientifically. I can tell you using glyphosate on the honey locust, and invasive bradford pears I treated are dead, and have been dead for a year. No new buds, or sprouts. There's no magic want to make these unwanted trees go away. It takes a lot of time and work to permanently remove them. It's unfortunately the hand we''ve been dealt.

If you live in rock country, the rocks are the alignment or spacing. We have to skip a post sometimes and use stays. If its for a corner drill and bust.

Thank you for your comment. I didn't record properly on original clip. No sound came through. I'm pretty much a novice on video shooting and editing. Not a waste of time. Just building a fence that will last a long time. You can certainly re stretch the fence if need be, but you shouldn't have to for a long time using a knot like this. If you think you can provide a better video please post a reply teaching others how to do it better. Always capable of learning more on my end.

Thank you for your comment. The worry with running the bottom wire first would be having a barbed wire laying on the ground during construction. That could flatten tires or catch on machinery. I know that I usually can't finish a fence in one day, and don't like to have a possible danger lurking. A string will likely break if something valuable were to get caught in it. You also have a wire to keep an eye on and not trip over for while hammering in posts. The string is very easy to take down. Using the string as a measurement will just make the fence look neater. I guess that is a matter of personal preference. It's a fence that will hopefully be there for a long time, so a few extra steps are worth it over the life of the fence. Though I don't think it's that many extra steps.

So your saying the fence is still standing, but some of the post are leaning one way or the other? If so, the easiest way is to put new posts in and fasten the existing wire to the new post. Keep the old post in the ground. I've done this by putting metal t-post in, while keeping all the existing wood post in the ground.

Wait till the ground gets soaked down deep. You may be able to push them back straight, then drive a rock in the empty space. They were probably not in deep enough though.

@@tsl7881 Thank you, I give it a try.

I certainly know some people who are capable of doing it by eye. This is a cheap way to guarantee you're at (or really close) to a straight line.

What do you mean by Side a and b?

@@kaycountyosuextension692 I’m assuming they mean after stretching without loosing or slacking the wire after tension is applied

@@dakotadickens3747 You will inevitably lose some tension after tying the knot and taking the "tensioner" off. I usually add one more link of tension before I tie the knot, and just know I'm going to lose some. This has definitely made me snap a wire before so be careful.

@@kaycountyosuextension692 oh for sure. I’m a fencing contractor I fully get that I was just saying that’s what his question is I believe. Good educational video for people at home though. I’ve tired in different ways. We use wood post and a lot of staples here so even the first way tends to still hold decent usually

Always make sure helpers are clear of the wire when tightening. Encourage them to wear gloves, human skin is not too thick and there is only so much toughening-up you can do ( I've heard that from helpers. I say but: you are slow). When using wooden posts, place a staple at the barb to stop movement, except on "goucho" wire use an extra an staple since the barbs a simply wrapped around the wire , not woven in it.

I've viewed on multiple devices, and if I turn the volume nearly all the way down I can still hear clearly. I apologize if it's not coming out clear on your end, but I do believe the sound problems are not with the video I have uploaded. Good Luck.

Sound is perfect for me.