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Probably. It's not specifically listed on the page, but I would assume it's the same.

@@Mingodough So the problem with that is that for my method here, we are pulling power from the USB connection. I'm not really sure how it would work for your wireless board since you also have a battery involved. You would need to tap into the power between the battery and the board. It's probably still possible, I think your power connection is still the same voltage and all. I'm no expert so I'm sorry if anything doesn't work, I'm just speculating based on my understanding. To do this method you might try doing the "power tap" on the wire between the battery and the board? If it's a replaceable cable it shouldn't be too scary to do.

@@Modren yeah, thanks for the reply. I mean we’re an advanced civilization, I have to imagine someone has invented a cable that splits into two to power both the board and the lights. Sort of like those headphone cables that lets you plug into 2 headphones with 1 cable that splits off. So I imagine I have to find something like that

@@Mingodough Right?? That was part of my thought process for this project in the first place, I figured it had to be the same power for the USB and the LED and luckily I found a cable ready-made for my model. I think the little alligator style power tap would work for you but i don't have personal experience with it. I hope you come up with a solution for the wireless board :)

@@Modren yeah I’ll have to look into it. I don’t know much about this stuff so you know I’ll probably ask some people for the names of the wires, and stuff I need and maybe my brain will figure out the rest. Thanks for the reply again, maybe I’ll comment here again to update everyone since I’ve seen at least one person here ask for the 8bitdo as well. But it might be a couple months since it’s not a huge priority rn

Did you get the LED controller and the power cable? Despite it being a Qanba stick and Qanba buttons, it's not compatible out of the box, you have to do extra stuff like I did here. Need to have something to control the lights and something to power them.

Hey, awesome! so for me, I've noticed that the lights can be a little finicky depending on which USB port I plug it into on my PC. some of my front panel ports, it'll keep restarting mid-pattern. I think that's a problem with my pc ports, not the stick. never had any issues plugging it into a PS5 though. also you can change the animation speed, try turning the speed up. at the slower speeds you can clearly see the different steps of intensity.

Probably, I just don't know if it might be harder to get the power from the stick to the light controller on something wireless with batteries. We're tapping the USB power here, I don't know if that's still easily accessed on yours.

Yes this should work with essentially any stick. I *suspect* that the "hori power passthrough" I linked may work with other sticks like yours, because the 5-pin connector looks like it's pretty standard. If I Google what your stick looks like, it looks like it would fit. But I don't have one myself so I can't guarantee that. Other than pulling the power via that or a tapping method, everything else should be totally universal.

I think the same Hori wire kit should work for that, actually. I'm looking at a picture of the board and it looks like the same type of connector to me. Might be worth emailing Focus Attack and asking if they know, but I thiiiiink it would work fine.

@@Modren thanks I just sent a email to FA support so hopefully they can give me a definitive answer.

​@@eltoro98xboxlivelet me know what they said !! I want to add led buttons to my obsidian too

@@iHernandez620 they said "Thanks for writing us. The Hori power passthrough is intended for Hori devices only. We unfortunately do not offer a Qanba power passthrough at this time. I would recommend soldering 22AWG wire from both the VCC contact point and ground contact point of the Qanba's main PCB for your power source. These are usually located close (if not on) where the USB cable is soldered."

The next solution since I can't solder, would be to purchase some type of battery to tape inside the stick with the led controller and just turn the leds on and off separate from the stick being plugged in or not. Dumb solution? yes, but at least it would be just for show and can be turned off when not caring about displaying the LEDs. @modern if you have any suggestion to what battery solutions would work best for this idea lmk! thanks again

it's the Solo Cup - Jazz design

@@Modren thx

Correct. There are two separate connections on these buttons, there's the two metal prongs to connect the buttons to your stick's board and then there's a port for the LED cable. I would expect any other LED button to be the same, I don't think it could pull enough power to operate the light from the button connection alone.

@@Modren dam cuz I saw these ‘led buttons ‘ on Amazon and I want to use them for my mayflash f500 and game sir c2 stick sadly u said they won’t light up tho. But is there q universal cable thingy to make it work on all sticks ? If u have a link for it that be nice just asking nicely is all

it would depend on the specific buttons you are looking at, I just searched on Amazon and the ones I'm seeing still have a separate connection for the light versus the button. But these that I'm seeing on amazon, the LED connection is another two metal prongs like the button connection is, so honestly I have no idea what kind of cable you would need to connect power to them. These buttons from Qanba in the video have a *port* instead of prongs so it was quite easy, they're definitely more expensive than what you will see on Amazon though.

I think it would be fine because the whole LED aspect added here is totally separate from anything else on the stick.

It looks like there's not one made for that specifically, but the generic power tap kit should work.

I don't have the gp2040ce myself so I can't be sure, but it's supposed to be plug-and-play. If you bought the LED cable that they sell with the buttons, you should just need to plug that into the "RGB LEDs" port on one corner of the board (it's labeled) and then insert the rest of the plugs on the cable-chain to all the buttons. If you've already done that, maybe you need to do something with the firmware? See if they have a support discord or something similar where you could ask.

The tabs on the Gravity Buttons are very solid, Sanwas are the real culprit for tabs breaking

Now I can mod my may flash arcade stick f500 elite.

Got a Hitbox controller working on a Gouki build and came across this! Exactly what I needed.

The buttons are cheap (inexpensive) anyway & Qanba make sturdy buttons. They even have tools to help take them out easier (Buttercade Snap Out Tool). It’s on Arcade Shock & Focus Attack. It’s like $8.00. They have it for 30mm & 24mm size.

Unfortunately the Blue Megaman is the only one that doesn't have the magic percent

Well it’s still 420

42.0% _even nicer_

No, in general summons stay alive and controllable. The only two I can think of which die with you are Lone Druid's bear and Meepo clones, but that's because all of those are practically a hero by themselves and can equip items and stuff.