Видео

2k 👏👍 Great combination of explenation and examples 🙏

Jalen, you are an excellent teacher. Thanks for your great videos!

Very useful tips. Thanks Jalen.

Awesome video man! Really learnt some stuff! Thanks!

I am not an expert in photography, and I think ISO works with the shutter speed.

Great,, I've been looking for this tips 😁

It doesn't matter how many times I hear the explanation about aperture, ISO, and shutter speed I forget everything when I'm outside trying frustratingly to get the best picture 😢

Very enlightening and well produced video; clear, concise and pithy.

Jalen, thank you for taking the time to share the tone curve information and tips. As you promised, it was concise, clear, and informative. Thank you!

how rare is that to have all that snow on Mt. Shasta? I didn't know the peak was over 14,000! Great video! Keep 'em coming!

Very well composed video. Enjoyed the background music. Well conveyed. Nice picture.

MEH!

Your title is misleading. Why would anyone use iso 100 to take a muddy, wildly under-exposed image? Your title makes it sound like there’s only one scenario when you’d want to raise iso. Your points, however, are well taken and presented .

Or just use your cameras native/ duel native ISO’s if they have one. Most digital cameras do now.

nice job bro :)

Very well done. Your best thus far. I especially like the foggy photos.

Also remember there are some people who use Crop sensor. Meaning all these numbers must be increased

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤍

This was a great explainer! Thanks!

I watched the whole thing because its interesting, but also because I wanted to see if your smile muscle ever gets tired.

Really great job taking a lot of the mystery out of the tone curve functionality. Subscribed!

This is a good basic tutorial on curves. Adjustment is necessary on most digital images because most scenes exceed the dynamic range of the sensor which results in some degree of underexposure, relative to how scene reflectance is perceived by eye with adaptive vision and images must be exposed “to the right” with non-specular white 1/3 under clipping to avoid blowing out the solid white / specular white 3D shape clues on any white objects. Down in the deep shadows though lifting of the curve will result in mostly noise being amplified so one must be judicious there. In photos where the shadow detail is very important the technique I use is bracket and blend with layers and masks. I will take one exposure for the highlights 1/3 stop under clipping on tripod then a second with +3 stops exposure for the shadow detail, copy/pasting it over the first with a black mask when editing then opening the mask on shadow exposure layer “painting in” actual well exposed detail instead of just increasing gain and noise on a single exposure. I prefer his over automatic HDR software because it can be done selectively similar to dodging, but by adding more detail while lifting the tonal values in deep shadows. The opacity slider on the masked shadow layer can be adjusted after opening the mask from 100% to 0% allowing before and after visualization of baseline “expose to the right” exposure and the image with the second shadow exposure blended it. When doing adjustments to individual channels I find it easier to do with RAW files which are in CIE*Lab format rather than RGB JPGs. The A and B channels are blue-yellow and green-magenta the same as the WB and TINT adjustments which makes it simpler to shift cool / warm balance and much simpler to eliminate the greenish cast causing by light filtered / reflected off foliage in outdoor forest scenes, especially when there are people / skin tones in the photo. The greenish bias of the light gives pinkish caucasian skin an odd dull gray look that disappear with a + magenta correction in RAW.

Very nice

Good point! Easy to follow and understand. nothing complicated. thanks for the information.

Thank you so much for this!!! The basic Brightness/Contrast doesn't even come close, the fine control and picture improvement is amazing!

Very helpful! Your walkthrough of using the tone curve gave me a new perspective on using the PS tool I am very familiar with.

Great!

Jalen, very good video explaining the tools in Lightroom. I have also watched your Photoshop videos and learn new things each time. It appears you are located in the Eugene, Oregon area. Is that correct? I live in Pleasant Hill. Do you conduct photo tours or provide onsite training for Lightroom and Photoshop? I am interested in Milky Way photography in the dark sky area in Eastern Oregon. Have you done this and, if so, what are good locations. I always thought a Milky Way at Fort Rock would be interesting. If you are up for a trip let me know.

Well you 100 iso image at 2:42 definitely shows less noise why is that? (RUclips compression answer not allowed)

Jalen, so glad I found your channel. I watch folks like Michael Shainblum, Simon d’Entremont, and Woodland Colours Photography for inspiration. Now I’ve added you to the list. Always great to support a fellow RUclipsr as well.

Literal first demonstration on video at 0:39 is at ISO100

Photoshoped.

Excellent stuff........ thanks

Thank you ❤

Nicely presented… Very informative!

finished the whole video thinking i was watching some youtuber who has a million subs. honestly wow amazing video bro! i defo will experiment more with the tone curve and stop being afraid of it haha

ISO replaced the old ASA of film days !!

you talk too fast

you conflated distortion with noise but the video is informative.

Great shirt. Against that background I never would have spotted you if not for a little head bobble.

Who shoots with the idea of blending noise in water or clouds. Use a tripod, use 100 or 64 or spend the money on medium formate if you shoot commercial and noise is an issue for you. Sports, or nature, yes you need to incrase iso for certain scenarios. Beyond that, 100 always works for me.99% of my work is 100 iso.

2:38 - ISO 100 still less noisy 😅😅

No, nothing is better than full manual mode, 45 years of experience of photography to say this !

As a Pro Wedding Photographer- I always shoot MANUAL, give me the shooter FULL control

Please work on your sound more in your vids. I had to crank the volume up to hear you in the intro, then I promptly got my eardrums blown out by that intro music.

3:15 ✅

In the beginning of the video you say the A stands for automatic. The A stands for aperture. Auto stands for automatic.

Appreciate your video tips! I'm a Nikon guy who shoots in Manual mode and sometimes in Aperture Priority mode...but thanks for taking us back to the basics! :)

Inspiring video 🙏

Great video. That was the location for what was going to be the first video on my channel. The photos were pretty bad and the video wasn't much better since it was my first time trying to do both. Needless to say, I scrapped that video and debuted with something entirely different. I need to make it back down there and try again. I love waterfalls and just don't get to them nearly often enough.