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Do you need to take the intake manifold off to do this?

Are you in or close to Toronto...I can really use your help.

Clear as mud

Thank you!

I can't get the oil pump chain tensioner to engage. I have the chain and sprockets back on, with the dots aligned properly that you refer to. Once I manually rotate chain once it goes out of time because of inadequate tension. How do I get the tensioner to engage once I put it back on?

But never actually shows using the tool removing the passenger side roller follower, wth

I have a 05' F-150 xlt with a 5.4 triton 3 valve, with 70k miles...I have the timing chain click, I know what that is. I've had to replace spark plugs, which was scary, learned how to do them...I've replaced coil packs. Then finally it started running rough, and would go into limp mode. I took it to a friend's shop, and he put it on Snap On diagnostics, and said the VVT sensors are bad...I ordered some cheap ones, it didn't fix anything. I was told that you can only use Ford Motor Parts OEM. My question to you is, do you think it's a 200$ fix, or do you think it's a complete timing job? The timing kit I'm looking at is the JEGS kit, with the upgraded Mellings oil pump...I know the heads are designed bad, on oil return ports, being too small. This was my father's last pickup truck, and as his only son, I'd like to fix it...I don't really have a place to work on vehicles anymore. My father and grandfather were both diesel mechanics by trade...but I grew up in a bus garage working on cars. My grandfather owned a transmission shop, and had a garage metal building next to his home, just to tinker around...my grandfather passed years ago, and my father is in a home with dementia, and all I've got is my driveway...i gotta figure something out..any ideas would be appreciated...

Should there be any wiggle in the rocker when it’s good?

Please keep making more great videos like this also how long has it been. Sense you install the pulley and have you had issues.

Does this apply for automatic trans ?

congrats I hope everything worked out

That timing marks are NOT right !

I just put a used 4l60 in my truck but i verified that the trans was good because i drove it in the truck it came out of. Everything worked fine in that truck. Now that its in my truck it wont ahift into overdrive. I'll be checking rhat plug for sure.

How much did your parts cost? My 2012 has a bad lifter looking at ordering a new cam but don’t want to go back to stock

You might can always spin the push rods if they have oil on them or if someone has stronger grip.lift push rod up and down until it doesn't.0 lash,then 1/2 turn on most sbc. Try not to use spin method, some will stop spinning some will not.With valve closed of course.

All I needed to hear to sub, I will definitely be adding the videos of my build

Are you gonna do a step by step videos?

I drive a aussie 5.4l 3v fairmont. I watch all the RUclips timing chain replacement vids so I'm ready to this job myself when needed. This is a interference motor. If you plan to replace a timing set. Remove all the roller followers. Make sure you don't lose the keepers and drop a valve into the cylinders when doing this. Watch a good video on how to do this right. Cheers.

Did you also have to push the thingy to get that other little piece to move?

Oii

In reguard to the first adjustment you demonstrated, the exhaust valve closes on the overlap phase. You must take your adjustment after the intake closes.

Not easy.Good job.Thanks for sharing.

You forgot the step to get the camshafts into final rest position! After pulling the 6 rollers (cylinder 1 - 1 exhaust, cylinder 4 - 2 intake, cylinder 5 - 2 intake, cylinder 8 - 1 exhaust), you need to turn the crankshaft to the final rest position (key at 6 o'clock not 12). Once the key is at 6 and cams are in final rest position and you can start replacing the timing parts (take the chain tension(ers) off). You will know it is at rest because when the chains are off the you will be able to turn the camshafts with no tension from the rollers/lifters. Good luck

I have question a a head for a 5.4 Triton. How do I get a hold of you on FB?

Soooooooo what was the fuse then???? Anymore info like a name instead of just saying 20 amp fuse

Hey man great video! I have a 95 c1500 and have trans oil leaving from the hole in the middle of the yoke. Do you think it is the output shaft sleeve or just the O-ring? Do you think I could get away with just replacing the o ring without removing tail housing? Thanks for any help you can give

Quick video quick instructions and none of it made any sense. To remove something before pointing to it shows nothing and while you might be able to see it fine from your angle your camera didn’t have the same angle and showed nothing tangible or identifiable to the viewer… on another note manifold and intake are the same thing. Were you referring to intake and exhaust manifolds separately?????? Or were you referring to them together?????? Or were you only referring to the intake manifold??????? Should the motor be a TDC on the intake stroke??????? Or should it be at TDC of the compression stroke??????? Your video was very confusing and leaves more questions to ask than questions answered Keep up the good work!!!!!!

How do I fix it if I took the chains off before neutralizing the cams?

Thanks for the video! There is also a maintenance hole at the bottom of the oil pump directly in line with the sprocket. The hole is meant for the insertion of a 5-6mm punch to hold the balance shaft in place with the engine at cyl.1 TDC. I used a 5mm Allen wrench and it made installing the new balance shaft chain a zero-fuss operation.

Same thing happend to me cooked my clutches

Did you ring and bearing it or do top end and timing chain only

So I just did a full timing job on my 06 f150 5.4 189k miles as it had the classic symptoms. I bought it without really digging into it a lot. Im no mechanic but I have common sense but I was able to follow a step by step guide to replace the timing components. However, since I replaced the timing components, at cold and warm startups, I now get a blue plume of smoke that last a few seconds. I am wondering if I damaged a valve or valve seal when taking out or re-installing the roller followers during the timing job. Im burning oil too. Im now worried that the valves guides or seals need to be replaced. Im frustrated to say the least and not sure what exactly to do. Any advice?

Nice info I have gmc acadia I took it to the dealer Then it looks to me that they not even touch the valve cover still dusty As the way I brought it in

Where are you located?

I’m looking for gasket kit and not sure if the one I’m looking at online is the correct one..

As soon as he said corvette synchro this video was over for me.

Gordon, I’ve seen a few people talking about bending valves when doing the timing, rotating the crank shaft and working on the roller followers. I don’t exactly understand how the bending can happen, can you explain? How would you go about installing new roller followers after timing is complete? Can you just put the new ones in and then install the cam shaft on top and then do the timing chain components?

are you able to wash the oem ones

How well has the rear main seal held up? I am doing this now in my 99 Corvette while changing the clutch. Thanks for the tip on the swivel socket, going to buy one and try that now.

Where are you located?

Fixing to have to do this. Loved the information, just wish I could have seen more of what you were talking about. Good info.

Is it possible to replace the timing chains without using that tool and Taking them out?

Is it possible to do timing chains without removing those?

Hi where you location for Ford head gasket replacement

The :nipple: as you called it in video broke off. How do I get the clamps to hold while cranking off?

Can't believe how many people say this is a great video my God all you do is talk talk talk

Seems to be normal for GTO's mine sounds the same as well.

Thank you from Shenandoah Valley Virginia

Awesome video. Good to know it is possible to replace the seal without pulling the motor. So, did the bell housing stay attached to the block the entire time, but was loose while you changed the rear seal plate? And what kind of swivels did you use? Thanks!!

The ls1 is easy to get hp out of it..why are you worried about a supercharger and all the headaches it will bring? A supercharger is literally in the last third of mods to invest into a gto. Brakes, suspension are the 1st go to items.