Jack
Jack
  • Видео 13
  • Просмотров 15 403
Touch and Go 5.9 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Touch and Go 5.9
Partner: William
Joshua Tree National Park
The route --- www.mountainproject.com/route/105722359/touch-and-go
Definitely deserving of the rating it's given! If you are in the Echo Roc,k give it a go! Especially if your boulderer friends are projecting ingenious ambition.
Просмотров: 823

Видео

Main Attraction 5.8 | Rock Creek Trad Climbing
Просмотров 6845 месяцев назад
Main Attraction 5.8 Partner: William Rock Creek High Sierra The route www.mountainproject.com/route/107591529/main-attraction This was a super fun multi-pitch trad adventure! The second pitch was definitely the crux and was pretty long. I went the wrong way at the end of the second pitch, making it feel 5.10, and even missed the anchor on the third pitch. Don't do what I did, and follow the topo!
Flower of High Rank 5.9 | Suicide Rock Trad Climbing
Просмотров 8656 месяцев назад
Flower of High Rank 5.9 Partner: Lucas Suicide Rock Idyllwild The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105788563/flower-of-high-rank I should have extended it before the top-out. I must have been too pumped to think.
The Vicegrip 5.8 A1 | Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles Trad Climbing
Просмотров 3416 месяцев назад
The Vicegrip 5.8 A1 Partner: Miles Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles The route www.mountainproject.com/route/113652796/the-visegrip This route was an absolute faff. It is definitely choss and totally sketchy if you don't know how to aid climb nor have the proper gear. (aka us) After coming down it totally was a memorable climb but definitely type 2 fun. I don't think we'd ever do it again, but I'm glad ...
Sail Away 5.8- | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Sail Away 5.8- Partner: Miles Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105722179/sail-away We started at the direct start, although the step across beta is valid, in my opinion. This was a great climb with great people. It was definitely a 5/5 climb if you like cracks with good feet and good protection.
Double Cross 5.7+ | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Double Cross 5.7 Partner: Tommy Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721615/double-cross
Upper Right Ski Track 5.3 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Upper Right Ski Track 5.3 Partner: Tommy and William Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721723/upper-right-ski-track Good romp. Next time is worth a free solo, but with a rope to rappel. Do this if you are new to tradding or leading! Super fun and super safe as long as you know how to jam!
Bearded Cabbage 5.10c | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 62311 месяцев назад
Bearded Cabbage 5.10c Partner: Tommy and William Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721711/bearded-cabbage Such a good route to break into the 10c range. It may be a one-move wonder, but it's definitely worth a go. I wish I had kept my foot on for the first go. Also, just bring a BD 4 or 5 and two .75s. I want to go back and get the sequence down since its such...
The Eye 5.4 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.11 месяцев назад
The Eye 5.4 Partners: William and Tommy Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721930/the-eye My brother William's first first-ever trad lead. It's full of first-time mistakes and lots of fear; a fun climb nonetheless. He even made his first trad anchor. A definite classic and one I will be doing each time I go to Joshua Tree, although maybe free solo.
Toe Jam 5.7 | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 688Год назад
Toe Jam 5.7 Partner: Miles Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105721609/toe-jam A classic up The Old Woman. It might get you a few hollers from the boulders.
The Orc 5.10a | Joshua Tree Trad Climbing
Просмотров 474Год назад
The Orc 5.10a Partner: Miles Joshua Tree National Park The route www.mountainproject.com/route/105724039/the-orc A fun route that preserved the spirit of adventure. I would climb it again if I was in the area but instead, go up the left-hand crack after the starting right side bulge.

Комментарии

  • @Nicholas-cm6rx
    @Nicholas-cm6rx 5 дней назад

    I agree, that #2 in the anchor is no beuno

  • @moltenconcepts398
    @moltenconcepts398 8 дней назад

    I was always taught to void using passive protection for your first piece. You want something that can be directional to avoid the reverse zipper effect. Cool you're using cowbells though, so many people skip using nuts or hexes these days. Nothing better than a solid passive piece that you could hang a bus off of!

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 7 дней назад

      Youre right! Reverse zipper is a worry especialy with a far off belayer. Although nature of the route really comes into play to asses that risk. I found it acceptable as this was an easy route with almost a zero chance to fall, also back in the day they only had passive pro, so... cant be that bad right??

  • @madeleinedawes6247
    @madeleinedawes6247 9 дней назад

    What a crack

  • @rf7282
    @rf7282 21 день назад

    I remember doing this climb back in the late 80's....Great route, lots of fun!

  • @oskarlundmark8989
    @oskarlundmark8989 27 дней назад

    How do ypu get it back

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 27 дней назад

      The second climber takes it as they come up.

  • @kevincuddlefish9648
    @kevincuddlefish9648 28 дней назад

    Suprised that hook held you and your ball of steel. Does that hook operate on friction alone?

    • @genesis209_gd
      @genesis209_gd 27 дней назад

      yep friction alone. physics are pretty amazing

  • @madeleinedawes6247
    @madeleinedawes6247 Месяц назад

    yes I would whip

  • @BasicThought
    @BasicThought Месяц назад

    Sorry for the quality. RUclips compression at its finest.

  • @nicholaswright6892
    @nicholaswright6892 Месяц назад

    “Can you do that for me… no” 😅

  • @mileswedemeyer3626
    @mileswedemeyer3626 Месяц назад

    No more throwing cams 🎉🎉🎉

  • @shoe-go7404
    @shoe-go7404 2 месяца назад

    Why would you call off belay when you’re not in direct That is a bad habit just opening the opportunity for a freak accident.

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 2 месяца назад

      I agree but if you've climed the route then you'd know its a safe ledge at the top.

  • @progressivefrog3681
    @progressivefrog3681 4 месяца назад

    Another nice, easy route I've done in Josh a couple of times. Not terribly challenging, but exposed enough to make it interesting. Please keep putting up these easy and moderate routes. I love watching the movement on the 5.12's & harder, but the less difficult climbs have a lot to recommend them too. The first time I did this route was in April, don't recall the year, probably the early 1980's. It was a few days after Josh got a bit of rain, and at the top, when I looked down, the desert floor looked blue almost as far as I could see. When we got down, I realized that I'd missed the forest for the trees. The blue color was many thousands of little 5 pointed star shaped flowers. But the only way you could get a real perspective was up top. Individual flowers were pretty, but...

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 4 месяца назад

      Thanks for the comment again. The flowers you speak of could be phacelia or Eriastrum, give them a google! I wish for a day like that as a climber and botanist.

    • @progressivefrog3681
      @progressivefrog3681 4 месяца назад

      @@BasicThought My oldest friend has a masters in horticulture. I'll ask her, too. She's been a friend for nearly 50 years, was me climbing partner for 20 (til I met my wife who now is) & was with me at the top that day.

  • @ozzylariz
    @ozzylariz 5 месяцев назад

    cheeky climb

  • @cameronyeomans
    @cameronyeomans 5 месяцев назад

    The roof a 11:24 looked very fun!

  • @averagejoegrows
    @averagejoegrows 5 месяцев назад

    mon that was excellent

  • @madeleinedawes6247
    @madeleinedawes6247 6 месяцев назад

    Easy clean bro, love that Tommy came to help in the beginning

  • @GreenGloop
    @GreenGloop 6 месяцев назад

    Dual angle. Such production value!

  • @GreenGloop
    @GreenGloop 6 месяцев назад

    Nice climb! You floated it. This is on my tick list. Do you know if you can rap to the side and setup etude for TR?

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 6 месяцев назад

      yes if you make a gear anchor at the top of this climb

  • @erikhartel456
    @erikhartel456 6 месяцев назад

    Such a classic! Dude you styled it, good work 👍🏻

  • @cameronyeomans
    @cameronyeomans 6 месяцев назад

    lmao the captions were a nice touch

  • @progressivefrog3681
    @progressivefrog3681 6 месяцев назад

    Another comment from an OG climber. One of the best crack climbs I've done anywhere, sustained thin fingers to medium hands, wonderful friction on the granite face and it eats up trad pro. I don't recall using cams at all. Of course, not everybody had a ton of cams in those days lol. But the nut & small hex placements were absolutely bombproof. I even slung that tree in the middle; it was solid even then. Great vid of a great climb.👍 [edit] Glad I found your youtube channel. I've bookmarked it-I'm kinda old school in that I don't subscribe, sorry. But I appreciate that you put up superb moderate to easy climbs, not just the 10's & above. There's a certain snobbery that says if it's not at least 5.10, it can't be a 5 star climb. I've done 'way too many 5 star moderates at 5.8 & under to believe that. Even if they weren't rated that highly in the guidebook.

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 6 месяцев назад

      @@progressivefrog3681 thanks for watching, I may be young but I’m a Trad dad at heart! Moderates are the most fun!

    • @progressivefrog3681
      @progressivefrog3681 6 месяцев назад

      @@BasicThought To give you an idea of how old I am & how long I've been climbing, when I started, some of the guys I climbed with didn't trust any pro you couldn't hammer in. That was "trad" pro lol.

  • @ArtML
    @ArtML 6 месяцев назад

    Wow, you climbed lower section (before the tree) so easy. I started doing lie back since the crack seemed to be too thin and did not have good time there at all.

  • @qNoble007
    @qNoble007 6 месяцев назад

    fucking sick bro

  • @AnalisaAyers
    @AnalisaAyers 6 месяцев назад

    The ladder reveal was so smooth

  • @franciscoarocha150
    @franciscoarocha150 7 месяцев назад

    I like carrots

  • @davidofoakland2363
    @davidofoakland2363 9 месяцев назад

    I remember this climb being pretty tough for a 5.8, but you made it look way easier. Good job, and nice hex catch too!

  • @hikesome
    @hikesome 9 месяцев назад

    You really know how to climb Jack! Fantastic adventure man you are really skilled

  • @JoshuaGaytan-ou8ks
    @JoshuaGaytan-ou8ks 9 месяцев назад

    I gotta learn rope climbing soon, these routes look fun

  • @BasicFlora
    @BasicFlora 9 месяцев назад

    Clean climb, V2 in my gym tho 🤷‍♂

  • @DAWSV
    @DAWSV 9 месяцев назад

    I see you showing off throwing and catching that blue hex

  • @lildump5252
    @lildump5252 9 месяцев назад

  • @progressivefrog3681
    @progressivefrog3681 9 месяцев назад

    Probably one of the best 8's in J-Tree. Great locks, small edges most of the way for your feet except the last few feet, and bomber pro the whole way. I'd be suspicious of the (-) rating. It might be only a couple of moves at the top, but they're pretty interesting. OK, so I'm an ancient climber. When we first did this, you had to reach below the top of the pinnacle to get some pro for an anchor-no bolts. And the descent was roughly a 5.6 downclimb. This is much more civilized...👍

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 9 месяцев назад

      Thanks for the history lesson old man! I kid, but I love the insight from the OG climbers. I had no clue how to build a gear anchor here, or maybe I didnt check. Thanks for the lore none the less!

  • @scetq4c
    @scetq4c 9 месяцев назад

    🧗‍♂️

  • @djdiscopapi
    @djdiscopapi 9 месяцев назад

    1:24 I was watching this!

  • @markconcar7681
    @markconcar7681 9 месяцев назад

    I very much appreciate you sharing this climbing experience. I did this climb 45 years ago in the freezing, cold rain. It was a sudden cloud burst. I couldn't believe how water much came down the track, down my arms and across my chest. By the time I reached the top the rain had stopped. I do recall setting up a belay in the same spot as you. We didn't have camming devices back then. I think ended up using a couple large hex nuts in opposition to each other and a large sling around part of the rock. I think your anchor placement up top is fine, but I would suggest using your slings in a way that better equalizes the static load. Across the way is a climb I believe called Cyclops. You might try that sometime. Good job. Stay safe.

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 9 месяцев назад

      I’ve climbed that rock! I’ve done the eye 5.5, but I’d like to do more difficult routes as well.

  • @progressivefrog3681
    @progressivefrog3681 9 месяцев назад

    As an old trad climber who's done Double Cross a few times, It's still one of the best crack climbs. I especially like that you didn't use all cams. Not so many younger climbers use Hexes for hand & fist cracks anymore, but properly placed, especially when the crack flares going up, they can be more solid than cams. 👍😊 [edit] And you don't have to climb 5.10 or harder to have a great climb.

  • @wildernesshomefilms
    @wildernesshomefilms 9 месяцев назад

    nice dude

  • @vlaaady
    @vlaaady 10 месяцев назад

    Pretty exciting climb. Why do you call it soloing?

  • @samilodi3399
    @samilodi3399 10 месяцев назад

    I LOVE TRAD SOLOINGGGGGG

    • @LGBachMozart
      @LGBachMozart 10 месяцев назад

      What they are doing is NOT soloing. Ditch the rope and gear and then you are soloing!

  • @MolvouX
    @MolvouX 10 месяцев назад

    nice video man! Love the POV climbing

  • @bryantdelafay3900
    @bryantdelafay3900 10 месяцев назад

    This is sick af awesome video fellas

  • @DAWSV
    @DAWSV 10 месяцев назад

    too much yappin 👎

  • @madeleinedawes6247
    @madeleinedawes6247 10 месяцев назад

    Nice van with Wendy holding down the fort! Hi Wendy!!!

  • @madeleinedawes6247
    @madeleinedawes6247 10 месяцев назад

    Nice crack all the way up! Great teamwork with @tommylee3834 on that simul rappel. Be safer next time duh ...

  • @SimonAPLee
    @SimonAPLee 10 месяцев назад

    On your simul rappel it’s best practice to tether both climbers together. In the scenario you are not in sync, simul rappelling without a tether can be catastrophic. Have fun and be safe!

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 10 месяцев назад

      Thanks for the comment, you’re right and I totally agree! In this case since it’s a single pitch and we’ve done it on this climb before, we’re familiar with it so it wasn’t necessary.

    • @ethanquinn3101
      @ethanquinn3101 10 месяцев назад

      @@BasicThoughtfamiliarity breeds complacency… Why risk it?

    • @BasicThought
      @BasicThought 10 месяцев назад

      @@ethanquinn3101 Its about managing fear and risk in a controlled manner. To much of either can be bad, but in the right ratio its why we climb! I will definatly have a back up next time though. lol

    • @tommylee3834
      @tommylee3834 10 месяцев назад

      @@ethanquinn3101ur 100% right but ive soloed this climb multiple times; we're very familiar w this rock (im the other guy in the vid) 🤷 we werent planning on simul rappelling but we decided to do it for fun! we be irresponsible sometimes sorry internet; thank you for ur helpful comment tho!

  • @AnalisaAyers
    @AnalisaAyers 10 месяцев назад

    my favorite part is the one with the cowbells ringing!

  • @tommylee3834
    @tommylee3834 10 месяцев назад

    5.4

  • @princenabby1
    @princenabby1 10 месяцев назад

    Great video! I'll watch moderate trad stuff all day over 5.14d. I miss climbing at JT!

  • @SimonAPLee
    @SimonAPLee 11 месяцев назад

    A strong anchor is considered 23 KN or more. If you believe that those red and yellow cams in your anchor are legit in good quality rock you can just do a two piece anchor with a quad. You’ll get a self equalizing anchor and it’s more efficient. Cheers and happy climbing.

  • @jaliyahbrock2195
    @jaliyahbrock2195 11 месяцев назад

    👀 'Promo SM'