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Yes. I changed the head unit eventually for a carplay compatible one, but it still worked fine.

Yes exactly. The instructions call for mixing raptor and hardener 3:1. I added (but didn't film stupidly) reducer to get a smoother texture and allow it to spray from my hvlp 2.0mm. A Raptor kit comes with the hardener, but no reducer. I just used my standard reducer, but I've heard that acetone would work too, though I have not tried that.

Wooo! I hope it helps. Since this vid, I used this little guy to patch a lot of holes and replace my floorboards in my wagoneer. It's holding up just fine!

Hell no... I've had all sorts of issues right at the 2 yr mark. I had to replace the fan motor on one of the indoor units twice (bad bearing). Then the main control board on the outdoor compressor. And now, there's a leak in the garage air handler... really sucks. Mr.Cool will send the warranty parts, but typically they want a certified technician to tell them what's needed. That coats $250 per service call that they don't cover. So I've taken videos to illustrate the noise on the motors, and bubble test the air handler so they can see the bubbles. So now I have to either call a tech to vacuum and refill the whole system (quote $750), or do it myself. I'm going to try to simplify the lineset by making new, and try myself. But I really want to replace the whole thing altogether with a different brand.

Glad it was of interest. Certainly not my original idea, but I really like the result. When I get to refinishing my dash, I will likely do the same texture before paint.

More than a year in, and I love it. Honestly I haven't changed it at all since the initial setup. Play around with the delay and "magnitude" settings. If I go to 35" tires, I may end up increasing the magnitude. No issue in reverse or otherwise. Just tune it to your style. But don't change it while driving.

@@comfort_in_discomfort thanks for the quick reply!! I was trying to get the thoughts from a manual transmission guy as mine is MT too! I was almost thinking of selling it because of the weird throttle response, now excited to try this on. Yes, the plan is to dial down to one setting and keep it there!

@libis22 I absolutely hated how it drove without the remap. And of course with the manual transmission, throttle becomes much more important. I never bothered with the Bluetooth setup since I never modified after.

Glad it was helpful!

I just watched your raptor videos. At the end, it seems you got a good result. I couldn't tell what orifice your HVLP was. Mine started life as 1.4mm but drilled to 2.0. Even at 2.0, my pressure was 40 or so. Also, a few other settings make a difference. The knob by the air hose is for air/fluid volume. That should be at maximum (out). The large knob by the trigger is to set the pattern. This is your preference, but bigger means "smoother" for Raptor. I think you got a terrific result with a small compressor!

You're right. I didn't record it. But I did add the hardener. Must have been nervous about spraying. Good catch!

Good luck and have fun! I'm going to re-do mine with a different pattern, but thebsame way.

I know on the higher wattage ones, you're not supposed to link more than 2 together. On these, they say up to 10. I dont have more than 5 per plug. Hard to imagine I have 2 bad batches, but not sure what else could be wrong.

Not quite there. But the prospect scares me. I also took apart the triangle window. Putting that back won't be fun either. I wonder if there is a plastic that can be put on to protect. Then, once the trim is on, tear the plastic. Like a seran wrap? Maybe not thick enough. I'm about a month away.

Sweet! I was really happy with how it came out. I'm debating on using it on my dashboard as well vs wrapping it.

Warn 72631. I used some knockoff ones also and they didn't stand up. So I shelled out for the good stuff.

In my case, there was some clear double stock tape. Also there are some flat lips that stay on the body and the trim "snaps" over those. If you don't already, grab some plastic trim removal tools. Similar process to the door trim removal. Let me know if you want to see specifically what the clips look like and I'll post a short vid. ruclips.net/video/sgzuNBNHawo/видео.htmlsi=l2UYl4_cpe9AWb8Y

Sweet! I'm happy that helps. I didn't want to spend $150-200 on pro stands. And, I may might make another where the doors are on the same side to save on footprint (just for storage. Stacking one on top of the other makes it too tall to paint, but for storage it would be good. Besides, wood makes it easy to modify.

It was much quieter than before. I didn't want contact with the roof for fear of vibration and damage. So while I had it it was great. Unfortunately, as you'll see in the follow up video, it warped badly. Could be my construction technique as I laminated two panels. One expanded in the sun, while the other didn't.

Yes I did. They had it from the factory, but I removed cleaned and reapplied.

Out of curiosity why single stage on the roof? Material savings?

@@comfort_in_discomfort The roof is not that important, you showed that by not fixing all the dents. Acrylic enamel with hardener is less expensive and it doesn't peel like clear. I do 1 coat of sealer. then 3 coats of paint. Now I'm doing a color change on a Porsche 914. I couldn't imagine putting 8 coats in the trunks, engine compartment, and door jams.

@sunset1300 Well that makes sense... I'll have to do that next time around. I guess I could have had my supplier make up a single stage equivalent for the roof. Good idea. My first go around, so lots of learning. Thank!

I rescued an old Hobart Handler 135 Mig welder. I tried using gassless Flux core wire, and though it works, it causes more splatter. So I use Co2Argon and Mig wire. Pretty standard, though I'm still learning.

Good luck! I just figured out how to take the passenger glass out as well. Will definitely need to get all seals...

Yeah, it was a bit impromptu. Sometimes it's easier to just get it done. But, when last minute filming comes in... it tends to go a bit sideways.

Nothing wrong with Linex. Besides, that's gonna be a rough removal, if ever. I didn't do a great job on the roof, but it's such a big panel, reaching, walking on a makeshift scaffold, low air pressure.... I'm just glad it's done. There's plenty of clear if I ever decode to sand and polish.

@@comfort_in_discomfort oh, I found plenty wrong with Linex. I had the whole truck done in it. As a material, sure it’s great. It’s resilient. I had major rust issues under it. It was easier to remove because of that. I worry the roof may have the same issues, but that is such a large surface area up high. One of these days I’m sure I’ll have to just dig in and do it.

Yup. It's hard to film while on a scaffold reaching to the center of the roof. I was hoping to be able to hold the phone, it just didn't work out. And I don't have a tripod that high. So, I got the results at least.

Thanks. Too far down the rabbit hole now to back out. Doors, hood, fenders... hope to make some quicker progress. I really want all the paintwork done.

Prep is key with any topcoat for sure! I also tried rolling it, and also spraying it from their 2K cans. Love the stuff.

@@comfort_in_discomfort that 2K rattle can is a racket, you hardly get any material out of that can. I learned my lesson on that one.

Yeah that doesn't sound right. Is there voltage coming out of the rotary switch? Try tracing the voltage to the component where it stops. If you can verify that the speed control has voltage, my guess is the thermistor.

Went to use welder the other day and no wire feed. Found that motor was seized and also little or no power going to motor. Have ordered a new motor that is 21v with same dimensions but believe something else is also a problem. Welder is a liquid arc handimig 170i made by lincoln l believe. Do you think 21v motor will be ok?

Well, here is a link to the Lincoln parts. I'm not sure but I think this is the motor. Pretty spendy. weldingmart.com/lincoln-electric-parts-wire-feed-motor-s24355-4/ Depending on where you are, here is an Australian link. Contacting them may be good www.migwell.com.au/catalog/category/view/s/liquid-arc/id/746/ And thirdly, is you search Amazon or AliExpress for "mig wire feed motor" there are lots of options, I'm just not sure which would work for your welder.

I do. Worked great as far as I'm concerned. Though I may really do once I get my full color selection done as I'm changing the paint color. But if I re do it, I'll use the same material for the base. Part 2 below. ruclips.net/video/FQdOtjrMihs/видео.htmlsi=HnK83Rt_wtSqzWkQ

And I did the rear inner quarters as well.

Yes absolutely! Just masked off and ready to paint the roof. I'll be using my LVLP and spraying sealer, base and clear soon.

Thanks. Since then I've done a few things including trying a pressure washer sand blasting kit. I have coal slag for my little cabinet. And you're right it works great. It's sharp! At this point, I'm hoping I'm done with rust :)

I'll have to check. I just removed the whole assembly. I'll get back to you.

I think cleaning first for sure then checking the contacts. Try applying 13v at the motor to make sure.

Sure. But it needs an aluminum spool and different gas.

Cool! My compressor is a 29gal from Harbor Freight. Essentially the biggest 110V one. It works best if you use LVLP guns, as they consume much less air. This compressor is not for air tools really, not for constant use. I could run an air sander for about a minute and then have to wait for the compressor to recover. If you're planning on air tools, go big. I use mainly electric tools, including a good DA sander. As far as paint, the HF purple gun I use for epoxy works fine for my needs. And LVLP (like the Sprayit 3000) for paint. Good luck! And ask away. I'm no expert, but have made plenty of errors I'm happy to share.

Thanks!

I saw a video of a couple of Australian guys painting their truck with this ratio so I thought I'd try it. Just prep your surfaces really well. Good luck!

Wiring is the issue. In order to get more fluorescent fixtures, additional hard wiring is needed. I like the LED output, and the ability to link them. I just don't like these. Before I do final paint on my Jeep, I'll need to swap these out.