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I added some links in the description as a suggestion

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you, I'm not sure if it matters, but all of the heatbreaks I've seen are either 1-2mm shorter or 0.5-1mm longer - really frustrating that none of the sellers even mention the Neptune! How is your printer working with PLA? I've seen some complaints about "heat creep" causing more issues than before. I just need something reliable that gets used 15+ hours almost every day.

Links have been added to the description.

Thank you!!!

links added to the description

Description Updated ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks for your answer, greetings from Colombia

Hi again! I've copied the configuration values from my dlc_cfg.txt file for the MKS DLC 32 firmware below. Hopefully, these settings can $0=6 $1=25 $2=0 $3=5 $4=0 $5=1 $6=0 $10=1 $11=0.010 $12=0.002 $13=0 $20=0 $21=1 $22=1 $23=5 $24=300.000 $25=1000.000 $26=250.000 $27=1.000 $28=1000.000 $30=1000.000 $31=0.000 $32=1 $50=0 $38=0 $40=1 $100=80.000 $101=80.000 $102=80.000 $103=100.000 $104=100.000 $105=100.000 $110=6000.000 $111=6000.000 $112=6000.000 $113=1000.000 $114=1000.000 $115=1000.000 $120=500.000 $121=500.000 $122=500.000 $123=200.000 $124=200.000 $125=200.000 $130=450.000 $131=450.000 $132=50.000 $133=300.000 $134=300.000 $135=300.000 Regarding your issues with the step motors: Step motors only turn in one direction: This might be due to the direction invert mask setting ($3). In my configuration, it is set to 5. Make sure that matches your hardware setup. Step motors jump steps: This could be related to high speed settings. You might want to try lowering the maximum rate ($110, $111, $112) and acceleration ($120, $121, $122) settings to see if that stabilizes the movement. Feel free to adjust these settings and see if they help with your issues. Let me know if you need any more assistance! Best of luck with your project!

Could you also please note what power supply are you using for board and Nesa 17 motors? Watts and amperes 😊

@@Kerchack Choosing the right power supply depends on the specific components of your setup, particularly the laser diode. The MKS DLC 32 can support up to a 20W laser diode, which at 12V would require around 1.67A (20W / 12V ≈ 1.67A). For the Nema 17 stepper motors, the power usage can vary, but assuming each motor uses around 4.8W, and you have 5 of them, you would need approximately 2A (5 motors * 4.8W / 12V ≈ 2A). In total, for the laser diode and the stepper motors, you would need a power supply that can provide at least 3.67A (1.67A for the laser diode + 2A for the stepper motors). However, to be on the safe side, I would recommend using a power supply with a minimum of 5A to ensure stable operation and to account for any additional power needs. Personally, I am using an overkill 12V 30A power supply. This power supply not only powers my laser engraver but also two 20W LED lamps under my desk. If my calculations are correct, this setup should be more than sufficient for your needs. Please feel free to correct me if I've missed anything or if you have any further questions!

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! I've got another question for you. I'm still having issues with step motors but I think it is related to board micro-step settings. For a TMC2209 driver what is the switch configuration for M0 - M1... Thank you in advance.

If you are using makerbase FIRMWARE you need to have the display but if you install FIRMWARE you dont need to have the display ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I installed Open Builds Control software and it immediately recognized the card and allowed me to control it with my laptop. I never hooked up a dosplay to the board.

if you are asking about "Belt Tensioner" the link it is in the description ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yeah, that's it! Thank you!

Thanks for reaching out, and I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful for your Neptune X upgrade journey! As for the fan wiring harness, while I don't have a separate video or link for it, I did include some explanations starting from around the 3:00-minute mark in the video. Hopefully, that gives you some insight into how to create one. If you need any more assistance or clarification, just let me know-I'm here to help! ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! Ok I can def do this harness, i was skimming to the bl touch setup which is why i missed it. What gauge wire are you using?

I used 22 AWG 2-pin wire, which I happened to have on hand. :)

i'm liking this too for mine!

Links are in the description ;)

In this video, for my testing, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for regular usage, I require a 12V 30A power supply, which is overkill. I need to mention that I am using this power supply to light two 20W lamps. ;)

Your observation makes a lot of sense! When the temperature increases inside the enclosure, it affects the heat sink's performance by reducing its ability to dissipate heat due to the warm airflow. This, in turn, causes heat creep up to the heat break, leading to print failures. In the meantime, I'd suggest adjusting the retraction settings from 5mm to 2mm, especially if you have a direct drive setup. This might help alleviate some of the heat creep issues.😊

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yes, I'll do more experiments now with the retractions settings. I just printed something in vase/spiral mode with 2mm retraction, and for first time I got big filament blobs/bubles at random spots of the print. Maybe it was due to something else. I really messed up my retraction settings, I though I was using 2mm all the time, but it was set on 5mm last time I checked, so now I'll have to experiment. I'm still using bowden setup. Thanks again, I really appreciate your answer.

Hello! The machine's capability to cut through MDF and acrylic depends on the laser head used. Higher power laser heads can cut through thicker materials. For instance, a 10W laser head can cut an 8mm MDF with 2-3 passes, while a 40W laser head can typically cut it in a single pass.

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks bro I like your channel you're the best❤

Most likely, you can use the MKS-DLC32 board for a 90-watt laser module, but it requires an external power supply and a daughter board in between. It's important to note that this board supports up to 20W, so for the 90W laser, you'll need an additional power board. Please be aware that the wattage mentioned refers to the input power, not the actual power output from the laser head.

I made the purchase on Amazon, but you may also check AliExpress for the same item.

For initial tests, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for extended use, I upgraded to a 12V 30A power supply. It might be an overkill, as a 10A supply is sufficient for the 20W consumption of the laser head.

Thank you for your interest! I'm currently working on providing modified files. As for the cost estimation, I'll include that in my upcoming video. I've successfully tested 20W and 40W laser heads on this unit. However, to control a laser head with power exceeding 20W, a daughter board and an external power supply are required. Your suggestion about attaching a CNC head (spindle) is excellent, but it would involve some modifications. The current version lacks the ability to move the head up and down, a crucial feature for CNC. Additionally, the firmware would need adjustment to accommodate the different functionalities.

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting the ultimate machine would have the 3D printer, CNC and 40w laser all in one.. the 40W laser is exciting looking forward to your next video

Hello! It seems like there might be a discrepancy in the Z Offset adjustment. To address this, manually adding up to 0.2mm to the current offset. This should bring the nozzle up to the correct level. Sometimes, issues like this can arise as the Z Offset distance matures or changes over time. Give this adjustment a try, and it should help prevent the printhead from scratching the heatbed during your prints. If the problem persists, consider recalibrating or checking for any other factors that might be affecting the Z Offset. Hope this helps!

Did you find a solution, I have the same problem but in the opposite direction, mine doesn't touch the bed on the first layer and just slightly hovers above the bed. Seems like some sort of bug, I am planning to re flash the firmware I just need an SD card

Unfortunately, the Elegoo Neptune2S does not have the capability to directly connect to a camera. However, you can utilize external sources such as a Raspberry Pi or other cameras specifically designed for this purpose. Stay tuned, as I may create a video tutorial on how to set up this connection!

Absolutely! The bi-metal heatbreak was a game-changer for me-it's a must-have upgrade. As for PETG, no issues at all; I've been consistently getting great results with it.

​@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingthanks, I'm gratefull that you replied. You convinced me, I will order one tommorow. I'm reading reddit and various sources, but couldn't get the answers I was looking for. Do you use something like Slice Engineering or more generic type of bimetal heatbreak? Sorry if I missed that in your video. You think it could work well with a hardened steel nozzle for petg? Thanks again, and sorry for too many questions.

@@ww4102 No problem at all! I personally use a generic bi-metal heatbreak and haven't faced any issues. While Slice Engineering is known for high-quality products, a generic one has worked well for me. And yes, a hardened steel nozzle is a great choice, offering longevity. Although PETG isn't highly abrasive, the hardened steel nozzle adds extra durability to your setup.

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I couldn't find those answers anywhere. I believe most of the negative opinions about bimetal heatbreaks are user error, but you're showing how to do it right. Your videos are reliable source of information, instead of being some entertaining bullshit.

Thank you for your comment! While I don't have direct experience with a spindle as powerful as 1.5 kW, I can offer some general guidance. The MKS DLC32 board should be able to handle a spindle of that size. Typically, machines with such powerful spindles have an external stepper motor driver to control the spindle. You may consider replacing the existing control board with the MKS DLC32, ensuring compatibility with the external stepper motor driver. However, it's crucial to consult the documentation of both the MKS DLC32 board and your spindle to ensure proper integration. If possible, reaching out to the manufacturers or online forums specializing in CNC machines might provide more specific insights from users with similar setups. Best of luck with your project!

finally I find some times to have more adjustments, shortly I am going to release my changes ;)

Thank you for the feedback! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Regarding the small red spacers, they should be the '05 V-Wheel Bushing v1,' and you can locate the file in the MokeyLaser_v1.1 directory

I found it in the end. My brain was working properly. @@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting

You can find the original GitHub link in the description; however, I have made some improvements in certain parts, and I will be sharing them with you very soon.

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Is there a full materials list?

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Hello, how are you? Did you share the improvements anywhere? Thanks!

Cutting through material depends on the laser head we are using and its power

Hi, You can find the module in Amazon or Aliexpress look for "MKS Robin WIFI module V1.1" it has green pin header, if you follow the video and still you have issue please let me know