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You're welcome 😊

Thanks! Yes, it would be great if there was a half stop ND filter. Unfortunately, I have not found any. Regarding the use of a variable ND filter, take a look at my video on this topic: ruclips.net/video/cWUAIzHVAvk/видео.html

Thanks! Polaroid has a new black and white formula so you may want to give it a whirl with your Sonar.

Lucky you! I'm surely they are better than the current offerings from Polaroid.

I think the I-2 is an ideal camera for this approach. I don't have one...yet.

I haven't used my Now+ for a while so I can't say for sure that what you suggest will work. My recollection is that the saved setting were very specific to a particular f-stop/shutter speed combination. Someone needs to test this!

Both these devices are very old and no doubt out of production. These days I transfer my photos to my first gen iPad Pro, which is very fast and allows editing on the go with Lightroom.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

My pleasure!

Thanks! Glad to be of help.

Hi there! I think you will be safe storing photos in a Polaroid-branded album with plastic sleeves. As you mentioned, Polaroid SX-70s are self-contained in their own sealed package. Any potential of-gasses from the album's plastic sleeves (I don't think Polaroid specifies the kind of plastic used) are unlikely to affect your Polaroids. The only slight issue might be the plastic sleeve sticking to the clear Polaroid cover in a high humidity situation. But that's highly unlikely.

@@WalkClickMake Hello, thank you for your reply. The plastic they use is PUL (polyurethane laminated) (Polaroid’s customer service just replied me today). Do you think it's safe? I'll take this opportunity to ask you something else: if I decide instead to keep the shots in a scratchbook with self-adhesive corners, do I have to be careful about the material of the book cover? And last thing: writing with an indelible pen or biro in the white part of the polaroid or in the sheet where it is glued with the self-adhesive corners, is it likely to ruin it in some way? (Always for the talk of smells or strange reactions). Sorry for all these questions but I want to be sure to keep them in the best possible way without making mistakes and from the videos you have made it is deduced that you are very experienced. Thank you a lot

@@nicolarandon Good research! I'm not familiar with PUL but it appears to be a very thin layer of polyurethane laminated between two polyester layers. I can't quickly find any archival information for PUL but polyester is considered photo safe. I believe the clear cover on SX-70s is also polyester. So I would consider the PUL as a safe option. Regarding scrapbooks, I would stick to ones that are minimally labelled "photo safe" but preferably labelled acid-free and even better with a ph of 7 or higher. As this may only apply to the photo pages and not the covers, I would mount photos starting on the second page so the first page acts as a barrier between the cover and your first photos. Make sure you use acid-free photo corners, which are easy to find. Regarding pens, I would stick to archival pigment ink pens such as Pigma Micron pens, available at art supply stores. There's nothing wrong with writing on the SX-70 white border. Just be aware that it is permanent. Hope this is helpful! David

@@WalkClickMake Thank you so much for all your comprehensive advice, you were very helpful to me. Last question just to be sure, i promise! Color i type film and color 600 film are protected by the polyester layer just as sx-70 films right?

@@WalkClickMake hi David, Can you solve this last doubt for me please? I hope you are well, bye

The Zone System process I described does not talk about altering development time, which is impossible with Polaroid materials. What I describe is a means of using shutter speeds-and perhaps a neutral density filter-to pre-visualise where the dark tones (eg Zone 3) and light tones (eg Zone 7) will fall (given the limited dynamic range of Polaroid SX-70) and choose the best shutter speed setting based on that. Which is more or less what you are saying at the end of your comment. Varying contrast by using N+ or N- development (which can also involve varying the developer dilution as well development time) only works with sheet film. I used to do this all the time with 4x5 film sheets. It will also work with roll film but, of course, all frames on the roll must be developed to the same contrast.

@@WalkClickMake In that case, we agree to disagree. You showed us Ansel Adams's book, to start with, hence my initial comment. Ansel Adams himself did in fact say what I wrote about silver halide loading not being found on modern films. I even capitalised the word "significantly". Since my SX-70 is not the Mint modified one, there's no way to tell shutter speed. It's light meter is crude, not TTL even, so no wonder exposure is unpredictable. Despite this, I've taken several 100 pictures with it. Right now I have some of the new 600 film to try. I may get the new £600 iType model, despite its not being an SLR. To me it looks a bit cheap and nasty though.

@@bilonggrisimmeri I don't have the new Polaroid I-2 but the few reviews I have seen suggest it's a good camera. It ups the ante with aperture as well as shutter speed control (although only in full-stop increments it seems). It is much less expensive than any Mint camera so, if you are willing to give up the TTL viewfinder and the original SX-70's form factor, I would consider buying it.

@@WalkClickMake Yes, on YT it looks OK, if very bulky non-folding design. Wex may be stocking it, and I need to hold it in my hand, to see build quality. For now, I will use my 1980s SX-70 autofocus, to see if Polaroid is still useful to me. Since one Polaroid 600 photo costs £2.27, dud shots are now a real issue, whereas in the past the film cost much less, allowing for inflation. There's no 100% reliable way to get perfect exposure with that crude SX-70 magic eye meter.

Glad I can provide!

Hi, As an example, if there is an area of the scene that is in shadow but I would like to capture a little detail (eg. not solid black) then I would want to place it in Zone III. I would take a reading through my spotmeter and, if the reading happened to be 9, I would move the dial on the side of the meter so that the Zone III patch on the meter dial was across from the 9 on the meter dial. Hope that helps!

@@WalkClickMake yup now that makes sense in my head … very helpful thanks

I haven't really checked this out recently but my recollection is that the setting stored on the camera would only work for pictures taken in exactly the same lighting situation. I would stick to using the app for settings and shutter release or rely on the camera for settings and shutter. Avoid using both for one shot. Hope this helps. Polaroid does not make it easy...

Thanks, I appreciate your support.

You are correct. It is best to use the app shutter button if you have set your settings using the app.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Paul.

Thanks!

Agreed. One has to be slightly mad to work with Polaroid in 2023!

Thanks Robin, I’m glad the video was of help!

Thanks, Edward!

So glad that it worked out well! I agree with you about the museum glass. I had framed a few colour polaroids per my Framing the Icon video and displayed then in a room with a big north-facing window. There was no direct sunlight on the photos but, by the time I removed them from the wall several months later, there was some visible fading. So it pays to invest in museum glass.

@@WalkClickMake Im with you on that!!! I will def. keep going to hang polaroids with your methods and museum glass. Its the way to go :) If you ever figure out a new way to portrait them pls make a video im eager to learn more.

Thank you! You are so kind.

I used Canada Post Xpresspost International. Ask if they will reimburse you for the shipping cost. In my case (my camera was brand new), they paid me with an equivalent amount of Polaroid film.

@@WalkClickMake thank you for your response!

I don't think so. The camera meter's 'eye' is set inside the lens bezel and would be covered by the attached filter. You could use the included plastic ND filter and carefully drill a hole in it so the meter eye is not covered. But that would only work if the ND filter correctly compensated for the overexposure problem. It could result in an underexposed image if the ND filter was too 'dark'.

No, that would require the camera have a sensor and a lot more electronics.

Thanks! Have fun with your new camera.

You. Are most welcome!

Happy birthday and have fun with your new Polaroid!

Hi Adrian. I am assuming you are doing emulsion lifts onto a larger paper base. I haven't done this but I think I would cut a window with a larger opening that shows a bit more of the paper base around the image, perhaps ¼ to ½ inch on each side. You would need to experiment to see what looks best. If the paper base was larger than the image (say 7 x 7 inches) then you could use photo corners to mount the photo to the backing and visually centre the image in the mat window . Because the position of the image on its paper base is likely to vary for each image, the position of the photo corners are going to be specific to that photo and you won't be able to exchange images without moving the photo corners. It's more of a custom approach. Hope this helps!

Agreed. It is hard to believe that Polaroid cannot fix this.

That will be an interesting experiment. I have the Lomograflok back but haven’t found the time to repeat my tests with Instax Wide. You should get more accurate response with a full range of apertures and shutter speeds. Have fun!

@@WalkClickMake and 10 shots per pack...