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Made this make sense in 17 minutes thank you!

Hey! I know this is an old video but please respond if you see this, I am interested in starting a swap on my sky and you seem experienced in the area

So with Johnson lifters we want about 1/2 a turn after lash to full seat the rocker right?

Where's day 3!!

Do you do conversions for other sky owners? I’m interested in doing the same.

great video!! why can't you just put a dial indicator on piston #1 and set the wheel to zero when its at TDC?

Where did you get the motor Mount & adapter plate?

👴🏼👴🏼👴🏼👴🏼 still waiting for vid 3!

Hello? Where's the rest of the Sky LS Swap series????

Link to video with Degreeing with the Cylinder heads on?

Who actually makes swap kit for the solstice? Not seen on google searches that have actual value

What’s the part number of the Motor mounts

Did you torque the heads down to final spec and did you do anything to the lifters when installing them before measuring?

Why didn’t we get day 3 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

So from the video I'm looking for about 5 1/2 turns from zero lash to get the correct preload on an LS7 lifter which is .1000?? I keep reading. .0800 preload on an LS7 lifter. I have a BTR cam in an LS2 that came with 7.4 push rods and the valve train is loud. Like a clack loud. Thanks for the video

ruclips.net/video/V4P1ljp-EK8/видео.html

I purchased a wrecked Camaro ZL1 LSA/6060 car as my doner for my Saturn Sky Redline. I am highly interested in what you did with the harness/ECM and if you were able to keep full functionality.

Any chance part 3 will be coming out soon?

I have bootleggers cam. Can I advance 2 more degree. More louder..

Very interested in the install but why would you even think about using a transmission that could barely handle a stock ls motor and you guys are putting out over 500hp. This thing probably won't get down the block without blowing itself apart. Can't wait for the update.

Can't wait to see day 3 . Very interested is seeing the electrical connections and how to make all the gauges operate.

For me it took me about only 1/2 turn and alittle more also it seems the lifters won't ride on the cam the whole time and will then drop onto the cam does that mean my pushrods are too short?

I’ve been thinking about doing an LS swap into a Sky or Solstice. Thanks for posting your build. I’m currently working on a Factory Five Roadster MK4 with an LS swap in it.

Pretty much the way I do it except for the junk timing chain tensioner. Trash it and run the LS2 timing chain dampener.

If ( hypothetically speaking ) you were to do this for a customer how much would you charge for a job like this. You supplying all of the parts and engine? Just curious.

What'sthe part number for the crank turning socket?

Where you guys at on this build?

How much do you guys charge for an LS swap for the same car saturn sky RL?

I'm exactly where you guys left off on my Solstice swap. I need harness help! Please post something soon 🤣

been thinking about LS / LT swap the LNF builders / part suppliers / tuners dont seem to be so great

So Awesome to see the beginning 🙌 that Motor 🙌, hopefully I'll see or hopefully you guys saved some video with it running last I seen was you adapting all the wiring, and DaM thaT is a well tookn care of CaR 🏁

Can we get info on where you got the parts???

I think its time for an update.

Thank you Grand Master do you have a video clamping down a LS Crank, got me a tsp 4 inch stroke Crank wa

After seeing 👀 you do this I got me the Moroso wheel and the dial indicator, this build I'm in control of Everything except for the Machine work

That's not too bad! No major chopping or welding? What's the plan for engine management? Godspeed

Appreciate the video! What about a video with the digital degree wheel kit you mentioned?

The 1.7.1 tsp roller Rockers bumps my lift and duration a tad can you give me a ballpark figure how much ?

Tsp 1.7.1 roller Rockers

O yeah double roller comp cam cover

I have a lq4 that installed a btr stg2 v2 cam in with stock replacement lifters stock heads and stock mls head gaskets. I used my stock pushrods and it some lifter/sewing machine type noise. I have a set of 7.425 push rods would those help quieten down my valve train noise?

I just had a 🤯 moment the second you took the piston stop off and it hit 0 at TDC. I was lost because i seen the other pistons hit TDC besides the one with the piston stop and it confused me so my question is how do you know how far to set the piston stop or is it just one set length? I plan on degreeing my cam with the heads off. Ive seen a couple different piston stop methods and this part confused me alittle.

How much do you charge to put a corvette motor in saturn sky car???

..the stock transmission and rear will survive a v8?..08 redline owner😃

2 much bla bla not enough doing. 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄

Looking forward to seeing the final product. Also, that business logo looks awfully familiar to me. Are you guys in the Houston / Cypress area?

While this is a good video for its intended application of stock rockers; many of its points cannot be used when upgrading to roller tip rocker arms, where MID-LIFT geometry must be used. There are a lot of videos out on roller tip rocker geometry that is completely misleading on the priorities of what should be checked, how to set, and what their effects are. For those who fall into this more high end application of rocker geometry for any of the LS series engines, please find the following comments helpful. > You NEVER want to worry about where the wear pattern is at on the valve to set rocker geometry. The wear pattern has NOTHING to do with "geometry." Because none of the manufacturers have any "accurate" standards for stud and stand mount dimensions from the valve, and because the stud leans into the valve, and because engine builders use varying length valves, and lastly, because every custom engine has a different NET valve lift, no rocker arm is going to be able to have the exact length required (on a mass produced basis) to accommodate all these variables. That is why you shouldn't worry about where the witness mark on the valve tip is at. Just worry about the angles. The BEST way to assure you are measuring ANGLES correctly with HARD measurements, is to use the VALVE SPRING RETAINER, because it is perfectly mounted at a 90 degree angle to the valve, and that is the principle of MID-LIFT precision. > You NEVER want to use "checking springs" to set rocker geometry. You need to check for NET valve lift with ACTUAL springs. Once you know what your NET valve lift is, then EVERYTHING after that is done with a CLOSED valve, no tension on the valve train; not even necessary to have an adjuster in place. Just an adjustable push-rod; dial calipers and KNOWLEDGE. > With all the tools I've made; and all the engines I've built; and all the tricks I've learned (many from other creative engine builders), to this day when I still occasionally help an old friend out on setting up his rocker geometry, I do it in less than 5 minutes with the following technique. It's all done in the CLOSED VALVE position, because you don't need to worry about hydraulic lifter valve compression or flex. You don't even need to have the adjuster on the rocker arm; it is all laying loose. And obviously, unlike this video, you are not rotating the whole thing over under valve spring pressure. Once you know what your NET valve lift is, everything after that is math, and setup; and this can all be done with the rocker laying loose on the stud, and an adjustable push-rod lifting or lower it as needed. > It's not complicated: A. Know your NET valve lift; divide in two; that is your MID-LIFT "motion" (MLM). B. Measure the height of your valve tip above the retainer. C. Measure the diameter of the roller; divide in half (this precisely gets you from the bottom of the roller to the AXIS). D. ADD "B" and "C" together, to get the STACK HEIGHT. An illustration can be found at: www.mid-lift.com/TECH/TECH-Installed-G1.htm E. Now, use a straight edge like the little machinist square shown in this video, and lay it across the valve spring retainer and alongside the trunnion. F. SUBTRACT or ADD (as needed) the STACK HEIGHT to or from your MID-LIFT MOTION, by raising or lowering the rocker arm on the stud. > EXAMPLE: * NET VALVE LIFT IS .700", so MID-LIFT MOTION is .350". That's cut in stone, now forget it for the moment (you've written it down). * Valve tip is .050" above the top of the retainer; and the .500" rocker arm roller diameter tells you its radius is .250", so the STACK HEIGHT is .300". SOLUTION: If the STACK HEIGHT is .300" and the MLM is .350", then you need to place the trunnion .050" BELOW the valve spring retainer. If your math has the inversion of this, then your trunnion centerline would be above the straight edge coming off the retainer. SUMMARY: DO EVERYTHING IN THE CLOSED VALVE POSITION, AFTER YOU KNOW NET LIFT. It's much easier to get an accurate DIAL CALIPER measurement on hard points, to find their true center-lines, than trying to use visuals that only give you approximate values. You can use the outer edges of the trunnion's diameter and divide in two for its center, which is far more accurate than eye-balling. For those who want to know what is important, and how to fix existing systems, you can get the book on this at: www.mid-lift.com/MID-LIFT_ARAT-2016.htm It's this simple: KNOW YOUR MLM; KNOW YOUR STACK HEIGHT; USE THE RETAINER AT CLOSED VALVE; and SET YOUR ROCKER TRUNNION as needed. Good luck to all. --Jim Miller

Where is the rest of the install videos? Looks great so far! Love to see this in a series.

Hopefully I will find the rest of the videos, I know you had to video more🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏very smooth though

Awesomeness plenty of room for the Headers,,I bet your son didn't sleep that night thinking about that caR sooooo bad ass man