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Big job! I like the tar paper flashing detail. Are you doing something like versetta stone on the front?

Nice to see what you are up to. Thanks for the contractor's view of billing.

He talks like a candian

appreciate the video keep going god bless

Looking good! I find the Kwikset deadbolts kind of finicky to install. There for a while Schlage had the "quick set" feature in their locks which I really liked, but they don't anymore. So I guess we're stuck with Kwikset until their patent expires :/

Looking great! I like the Z-flash detail between runs of siding, and using the 5/4 board to hide any imperfections is a nice touch. Those pricey materials really make you think carefully before starting a cut!

That sucks about the truck! Roof is looking good. Looks like good weather to be framing in.

Looking awesome! Moving really fast for a one-man crew! On the open section in particular, do you plan to install collar ties on the rafters? Not sure what code recommends, but wondering if you'll have to brace the rafters to keep the walls from splaying out.

Thanks for the videos man!

Awesome!

Nice :)

Locking the door, so satisfying!

Love the door!

Looking nice❤

Looking great!

Interesting detail on the bottom Tyvek! I didn't quite see the vision until you wrapped up around the rim joists, which is cool because you can integrate your wall Tyvek to drain over the bottom - clever! Only concern I'd have is now you've made a swimming pool to hold water under the floor joists. May only be a problem during construction - you shouldn't be seeing any liquid water leaking into there once it's built (hopefully haha). One thing that could happen though, is if you have air leakage from your floor penetrations (your real floor, not the PT bottom layer), you could have warm moist air from living area flowing into the subfloor structure area. When it hits that cold Tyvek/PT layer, it will condense into liquid water, but it won't have any way to escape, so your 2x6 joists could be sitting in puddles of liquid water for most of the heating season. I think if you're just careful to air seal all of your plumbing penetrations with spray foam to eliminate air movements between space, you should be okay. I'm not a building science guy though, so all of that could be wrong!

Have you ever seen IsoTunes? They're legit earplugs but also Bluetooth earbuds. I use Raycon Everyday earbuds when I'm working and they provide hearing protection for most everything. If I was doing something super loud, I would get a real pair of earplugs or headphones, but they're good for most things. And the microphone on them is great for quickly answering a call to have a conversation while you keep on working.

Heck yeah. It's looking great.

This was the only actual helpful video I could find. You just missed the part where a person may need to turn the bottom nut a quarter turn to put the arm on.

It is great to catch up on the progress - looking great!

Yes, I agree…. anyone that’s not an electrician should buy this tool

Love the lunch over the open fire!

Love how what might be a day for you is like seconds to the viewer. 😂

Looking great❤

love the video! It was a bit hard to hear you while you faced away from the camera while explaining stuff about the shiners and the outside wall, you should consider a lav mic or pulling the non moving camera closer to inbetween what youre working on so we can hear you better. It wasn't indistinguishable or unwatchable by any means. Super interesting video, Hope to see more soon!

Yes, it’s looking cool!

Of coarse excellent again. Love the different pitches. Sweet rolling on the ice and shield paper!

To bad about your truck. Like your cabin style, can you give me the size and dimensions. I going to be starting on my hunting cabin soon . And i been looking for unique style. Thanks Dan

The babies and Hannah were a nice touch! Loved it!! The tiny house is really coming along.

Great job! And such a good size tiny!

Worth watching a second time!

Excellent! Beautiful surroundings!

I have one tip. Go to the hardware store and buy yourself a basket for the exterior vent. It cost me over $600 when birds flew in mine. I told my neighbor I saw them going in and out of her vent. So I guess when she closed up hers, they were looking for another place to live, It’s a very common problem that is relatively inexpensive to prevent.

I still think you should swap the Frig and washer/dryer locations.

Sorry about your vehicle ☹️

Nice work. When will you expect to complete your tiny home?

As to the ridge beam, it looks like you have a double 2x10 spanning 20', but rather than using 20' members, you have joints between spans. So the simplest approximation is that it is only as strong as a single 2x10. [That approximation would be sharp if you happen to have a joint at the point of maximum moment, as then the entire moment would be carried at that section by a single member; if you know that you have two full plys at the point of maximum moment, you could calculate the moment at the joint locations and use it instead of the maximum moment, assuming you can calculate the stitch nailing appropriately.] Your ridge beam tributary width is 7 ft (half the building width) so each beam span is carrying 140 ft^2 of roof, so no live load reduction is permitted. Not sure what your exact dead load is from roof sheathing, metal roof, rafters, insulation, and gypsum board, but 10 psf is a commonly used figure. And the roof live load is 20 psf. So your ridge beam has to carry 210 plf for 20 feet. That means the reactions at each end of each 20' span are 2100 lbs, and your maximum moment at the center of the span is 1/2 * 2100 lbs * 10 ft = 10,500 ft-lbs. [This assumes a simple span; the way you have constructed the beam it looks like you have continuity over the center post, so the maximum moment would be greater than this.] That exceeds the capacity of a single 2x10 of any grade and species. An online calculator I haven't verified suggests a select struct douglas fir larch north 4x12 would suffice, but best to verify that or use some LVLs and the manufacturer's published data. If you added supports to reduce the span to 10', then the reaction would be halved to 1050 lbs, and the maximum moment would be quartered to 2,625 ft-lbs. Now the online calculator says a SS DF-L(N) 2x10 does suffice, although #1 grade would not. Or if you added tension ties between the wall plates, say metal rope every 2' or 4' on center, then your ridge member would no longer have to act as a beam, you'd be back into the conventional rafter situation where the ceiling joists/tension ties keep the wall plates from spreading apart. Although that wouldn't work in the loft area, and even in the unlofted area, it would interfere with the headroom for your stairs. I guess in the lofted area you could also consider that each stud is braced near its top end by the loft floor joists, so they could be modeled as cantilevered beams to resist the outward thrust of the rafters. I've never worked out the details of that approach so I don't know if that is likely to check out or not.

A few framing comments: IRC Table R602.3(1) Framing Schedule lines 15 and 16 specify the nailing pattern between the bottom plate and the floor system; if you are using 3" x 0.131" nails, then it calls for 12" o.c. everywhere, bumped up to 4 @ 16" o.c. at your braced wall panel locations. For larger nail sizes, the required number and frequency is less. IRC R802.7.1.1 limits the notch depth on your birdsmouth cut on your rafters to 1/4 of the depth of the rafter, which it looks like you have exceeded. This is mitigated somewhat as the minimum rafter size for a 7' span (assuming the ground snow load does not exceed the 20 psf roof live load) if you use #2 or better lumber (any of the standard species) is 2x4 rather than 2x6. So if you have a depth of 2-5/8" or more of intact wood remaining a the birdsmouth, perhaps that is arguably OK. I thought perhaps there was a requirement that the heel of the birdsmouth cut has bearing on the wall plate, but I don't actually see that in the IRC, so perhaps I am mistaken. Your ridge beam looks undersized, I will comment on that separately.

You should have an air control layer on the bottom of your house, which could be either the house wrap or the plywood. Whichever one you pick, its joints should be taped.

I wouldn't rely on just nails as supports for the loft floor joist. In today's lumber I don't trust the ends. I would add an additional stud from the bottom of the joist the bottom plate to carry the load.

You should rethink the kitchen layout. It looks very inconvenient. At very least swap the washer dryer and frig locations.

I enjoy your videos, very instructional. This one though I had trouble hearing what you was saying

Just lifting walls over here💪 Super peaceful looking place to build!

Excellent presentation excellently presented!

Sorry to inform you, you will always notice a seam in cove base they are far from invisible

That’s exactly why you wanna keep a wet rag. Do not let it dry people. I’ve been doing this type of work for over 30 yrs. Don’t let it dry get it while it’s wet. You skipped the hardest part if you have outside corner. Which is the hardest part of cove base.

That’s exactly why you wanna keep a wet rag. Do not let it dry people. I’ve been doing this type of work for over 30 yrs. Don’t let it dry get it while it’s wet.

Should also be using a wet clean rag to push that on real good and also if any glue oozes out. And trust me people you definitely want a little of it to ooze out to create that bead.

Should also be using a wet clean rag to push that on real good and also if any glue oozes out. And trust me people you definitely want a little of it to ooze out to create that bead.

You actually do want the glue to ooze out of the top just a little bit. It will create a better bond to the wall. Almost like a bead of caulk. Been doing cove base for years and that’s a fact