![Jeremy Hull](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Jeremy Hull
Добавлен 9 апр 2016
Видео
FRANK (Cummins swapped) F250
Просмотров 5275 месяцев назад
2010 F250 6.4/5r110 swapped to 5.9 24v Cummins/5r110.
Calvary Choir
Просмотров 415 месяцев назад
Praise the Lord!! So proud of our Church Choir…they were on fire this morning!!
FRANK (Cummins swap) is finally on the road!
Просмотров 2007 месяцев назад
FRANK (Cummins swap) is finally on the road!
“The Bass Buggy” a cheaper alternative!
Просмотров 304Год назад
Looking for a cheap way to get on the water …this might be an option. Worked out really good for me so far.
“The Bass Buggy”😂 14’ Jon boat setup
Просмотров 385Год назад
My Jon boat project. Hopefully, getting everything in order aside from paint this fall!
2004-08 F150 dash brake warning light staying on.
Просмотров 4,1 тыс.Год назад
Late 2004-2008 F150 dreaded park/emergency brake light staying on even when the park brake is released? This may be your fix! I do however recommend checking the park brake switch and circuit as well as the brake reservoir switch and circuit before proceeding to the cluster.
Clazzio seat covers 2006 F350 Crew
Просмотров 902 года назад
Nice well built covers for the money! Check them out if your in the market!
Amazon automotive inside/outside temp gauges
Просмотров 122 года назад
Amazon automotive inside/outside temp gauges
Setting up your 12 volt add on accessories to turn off with the key switch.
Просмотров 2592 года назад
Setting up your 12 volt add on accessories to turn off with the key switch.
Offroadtown dot/sae approved fog lights (part 2)
Просмотров 2912 года назад
Offroadtown dot/sae approved fog lights (part 2)
Flatbed refinish using spray-in bedliner (part 3)
Просмотров 1132 года назад
Flatbed refinish using spray-in bedliner (part 3)
Flatbed refinish using spray-bedliner (part 1)
Просмотров 8082 года назад
Flatbed refinish using spray-bedliner (part 1)
Flatbed refinish using spray-in bedliner (part 2)
Просмотров 3512 года назад
Flatbed refinish using spray-in bedliner (part 2)
Don’t loose the VGT on a manual trans 6.0!!
Просмотров 6 тыс.2 года назад
Don’t loose the VGT on a manual trans 6.0!!
Eagle Eye…2006 F350 part 2 (road test!)
Просмотров 182 года назад
Eagle Eye…2006 F350 part 2 (road test!)
that is a plastic rivet puller
This is exactly what my ‘95 F150 with the 302 is doing. I also noticed when it cuts out, the rpm gage drops to zero right away. It’s a stick, when it cuts out it’s usually back on in a second or two. Same no start issue occasionally. Again, during normal cranking, I can see the rpm gage bounce a little while cranking, then it starts. If it does not bounce at all, it won’t start. I’ve chased ground wires, fuses, relays, I will replace the distributor next. I unfortunately don’t have any diagnostic equipment.
Hope that takes care of it for ya!
I am interested in the OBDII port and how it is wired. If you have any information please let me know? Thanks and I enjoyed your video...
Yes Sir…send me your email or cell number to preacherman.hull1@gmail.com and I’ll send you the diagrams!
Do you have any thoughts on an electronic boost fooler?
Honestly, not real familiar with those. Pretty much taken care of in the tune if your running custom tunes I think.
Thank you for answering. I have an 06. Lbcc 4x4. I put a zf6 and a manual t-case in it. I was pleasantly surprised when i discovered that a previous owner had put an 03 turbo in it. The actual conversion was alot more time and money than i was anticipating from watching 7.3 MT swaps. New rear engine plate. ( justb the rear main seal tool is $300). New cross member. Both drive shafts re lengthened. The clutch is $$$. I cant even remember all the surprises. I went all the way, gauge cluster, harness swap, etc. For the life of me ill never understand why ford used a different cab. Anyways, i dont like the clutch master cylinder. It looks like it belongs in a kids toy? Any thoughts on it? And lastly, any thoughts on short shifter?
I have heard the short throat shifters are a very nice addition… Although I’ve never actually owned one. I did drive a truck with one a couple years ago, and it was smooth. On the master/slave, there are upgrades out there, but as well as I know, they are all made in the same basic way. I agree, they do look a bit cheap. However, I’ve had several, and they seem to work, and last really well.
I have a 550 with a homemade flat bed similar to this. Definitely gonna do something similar
There is a much easier fix for this issue. The lack of voltage ( 5 volts ) going to the break fluid level sensor from the instrument cluster because of the circuit board connection. Just add 5 volts to the dark green/ yellow stripe wire using a 12 to 5 volt reducer. Wire is easily accessible at the instrument cluster left side connector.
Now that's a truck
It’s been really good so far…gonna be the first heavy tow next week so hopefully all goes well. 10-11k on some 7-8% grades so we will see.
fummins
Great video, I like how i got see what this actually looks like and while learning the symptoms your customer had. Also you explaining the long term effects or speeded effect! I have a question about a man rebuilt 10k mile ford lima 2.3l sohc 4 spark plug engine that i had for 1989 mustang since high school. Its the third year with this engine though. My symptoms that first appeared were dying at red lights as well 3 seconds before that light. Next symptoms were hard starts for 3 cycle times, then intermittently the car would try to start itself once or twice a week when i had got back in from the store and tried to start it myself on the first try. Then came no acceleration when trying to open the throttle for either cruising, passing, or uphill. Feels like it will go better when pressing 1/4 throttle or less then slightly increase the opening to half way to get somewhat close to that 88 bhp or less back, can you please point me in the right direction!!
Man, i have the same car, same year and now it started to act up like yours..
What brand is the flatbed?
To tell ya the truth…I can’t remember. It might have been a cm or something like that.
@@preachermanj shit man it looks nice I too have flatbed 6.0 but I was looking to get one with skirted sides and boxes
Thank you so much for this video i have a 2005 350 ccsw short bed 4x4 with 190/30s fass 165 regulated return with fuel bowl delete, atlas 80 ficm tune kc jetfire 1, odawg sr3, mishimoto intercooler and radiator, so cal billet cac pipes, no limit cai, mecanical fan clutch bpd waterpump, bulletproofed with fire ringed heads, arp studs, deleted, 4 inch all the way with mbrp y pipe bd manifolds, south bend dusl disc, spd tune gear head full fuel warren hot street tune, innovative race tune and blessed race tune, and it is nothing like automatics with half the mods that i have done because of loosing boost going from 3-6 gears and im like you i hate driving over 2000 rpms while daily driving let alone towing which i do alot of. I was just looking at a non vgt setup thinking it would help but i was afraid of what you are warning me about that it would be even a bigger turd and low end rpms which i dont want to sacrifice the little power i do have down low for power after 2500 rpms which i never do lol i wanted a reliable tow truck that can pass when needed and i am really disappointed with how easy it falls on its face if i dont redline it with any weight behind me. O well tho other than that i love the zf6 had one in my durmax as well just wish it stayed in boost better i just dont want to drive the piss out of it everytime i shift it gets old. I got to say the 190s are lot more fun than my 155s and the ficm tune helped a ton too. I am thinking about going with kcs stage 3 dual ball bearing next its just expensive. Thank you for the video i needed to see it
If your in it for the long haul I’m reading about compound setups people are doing with the factory vgt turbo still in place. Should spool up down low as good or theoretically better than it does now. I’ll say this, if compounds work on a 6.0 like they do on a 5.9…especially keeping the vgt…it would spool quick!!
Yes I don't ever plan on selling my truck I enjoy driving a stick way to much. So how much do you think your gonna be in for one of those kits and how reliable are they for daily towing
@@user-iy3uy3xi4q Now that I don’t no…just was reading about it.
I have been eyeing the socal billet compounds and the no limit compounds both have keep your vgt turbo but both are about 6500 with another turbo that's a lot of change at one time to explain to the misses when I just spent 5700 on 190/30s and a south bend dual disq for the 2nd time lol. I love the 190s tho I just need to get better tunes for them all my good tunes are for my 155s I only have blessed shift on the flys for my 190s. My stage 1 Jetfire just ain't clearing them babys up in any gear lol it smokes like a freight train all the way through lol. Kinda annoying but it definitely moves a lot better just gets dumb hot now on my oil temps
Who's tune do you run most of the time? I love my tsd tunes and my warrens
U done the right thing by Cummins swapping it. The truck isn’t the problem the ford truck is amazing it’s that junk international engine under the hood, now u have ur self a good truck
Glad you got it going and hope it does well. Think it will keep up with Casper 2.0? Asking for a friend 😏
Ah…might not stay to far behind ya!😂
@@preachermanj if I blow enough smoke you will have to slow down cause you can’t see 😂😂
@@southmountainautomotive5919 😂
I have done a few of these swaps and I can confirm that they are a lot of work looking great 👍
How can I tell if the gear is cast gear or a steel gear without a part number?
Roller cam engines use steel gear. Flat tappet cams are cast. I believe Ford Windsor engines started roller cam/steel gear in 94’. Also, cast gear will look like cast…steel will be smooth.
Where did you get that t to the degass bottle from the rad hose??
I welded it up. But a better way to do it is get an inline piece just like that except with a radiator cap. Then just plug that port on the degass bottle.
Thx for the info big help. Gonna save me a lot of time not taking the whole front end off. 👍🏻
Nice work, Jeremy. What website were you referring to -- some other ham's design? Thanks a lot, OM -- 73 de DU3/NN3M
I did a slightly modified version of this. www.wv7u.com/mast/mast.html
The small 821 next to the big one was my problem on my 2008 f150 but I still went in and touched up the soldering on all of the joints on that side of the circuit board and now everything works as it should
Very good info, I wish I would seen this sooner...
The reason it sits so high is due to the fact that it’s flat and does not drop down between the tire humps like a factory truck bed.
I had the same drama with my 5.0 so i took the scroll pins out and pulled the gear and bush off then re drilled the bush 1/2 way around with a new pin hole about 40 thou to take up the gap that was 35000 miles ago never had a problem since , Great vid Rob NSW Australia
Perfect video. Tanks.
The first guy on the internet that i've seen with a brain. You are right about everything stated in this video. It's hard to explain this to people unless they've gone through it...
Great video with valuable information that is easily overlooked.! Thanks again !
How they holding up?
Still doing great…no fading or “yellowing”…no pealing clear coat.
The top left white circle thing is your fuel gage, bottom one is for Volts,, as I'm sure you already know by now.
How high does it sit over the bed when installed? Total inspiration i have a similar bed and this is a great solution 😊
Just measured…it’s at 6 7/8” dead level from the top of the bed to the top of the platform on the hitch. On my setup, even at that…there’s still more clearance than on the other truck with a pickup bed. It has worked out great for me!
@@preachermanj you are so kind. Thank you!
Honestly not happy with my blessed tunes. Definitely aren’t as spicy as the warren tunes.
Peak torque is at 2200, towing through Pacific Northwest pretty common to be at 2500 to maintain power and proper EGTs. Even with VGT if you get into low RPM on grade the truck will not like it, in auto. 190cc generally are a little big for towing, and if you had something like a smelding set up with a smaller exhaust side it probably would spool a lot faster. They are running like a 0.71, and they say they spool at 1600. Try getting a turbo with a smaller exhaust side for better spool up and maybe lowering your injector size if you are getting hot towing.
The non-VGT will certainly be more reliable overall, hands down, and you can use a jake brake/exhaust brake set up with a manual on a non-VGT, it would be mechanical and able to be controlled on shifter.
Just throw a Socal Billet s300/s400 compound on it, your problems will probably disappear power and EGT wise lol
and I have a old Elgin 7.5 hp motor ❤ I love these old school boats and motors
Mines a 1961 but in great condition
👍🙂 Nice boat I found me a 12 foot Montgomery wards boat so I definitely understand everything your talking about and you gave me a lot of pointers I'm thankful 😊
Thanks Jeremy for sharing the troubleshooting tips and methods. I was wanting to get a good NOS distributor as a spare without pulling my existing one to find out which type gear it has the steel or the sintered metal cast type. Where was that label located on the distributor body? I have a 1997 F-250hd obs 5.8L with 188K on her now that is my daily driver. Thank you for your time Jeremy.
To tell you the truth I can’t remember which gear it had. And the old distributor is long gone now, so I’m not much help to you on the label. I’ll try to do some checking tonight and see if I can verify anything for you.
F4TE (casting number) blocks built after late 93’ in the trucks were apparently roller cams and required a steel gear. The casting number should be just above the oil pan bolt rail and near the starter. Maybe that will steer you in the right direction!
@@preachermanj thank you very much
Ive got a 90 f150 with 4.9 i just put a new fuel pump in a month ago. Last week i got in to go to the bank and it acted like it did before the new pump. It cranked fine but didnt try to turn over. I checked the fuel rail pressure (pushed the stem in on the valve) shot gas good. I grabbbed starter fluid and shot some in the throttle bidyband it tried to turn over. Did it a couple times and it fired up. Drove the hell out of it. Did fine for a week. Friend went to take it to work and i found a note it wouldnt start. I checked fuel. Ok checked spark with a harbor freight piece of crap plug in plug wire tester. It sparked 1 time on the first cylinder then nothing for several cranks. Tried the second cylinder. Same thing 1 time. 3rd same 4th same. Put it on coil to dist cap sparked like it should. Moved wires checked cap &rotor all are new. Very little miles on those and wires. Tried starting . Same thing crank no start. Tried today no start. Checked spark got nothing. Finally checked tester no continuity. Threw it down the street. Put a spark plug in the wire and grounded on valve cover bolt got no spark. Pulled dist cap.cranked and rotor spun steadily counter clockwise. I grabbed it to see if it woukd stop under pressure but it just twisted my wrist and kept going. Coil has constant power on one lead with key on off and on when cranking on the other terminal. My ignition system is different than yours but i wonder if that same issue would cause what its doing. I lifted up the rotor cap enough for it to pop off but i didnt feel the shaft lift or have any play in it. Im stumped. If it would spark im tempted to spill 20 gallons of gas all over it
Could be the same issue as mine. Might also be the ignition module. I’d check wiring too…sometimes you can find a bad connection by having someone else spin it over while you move the harnesses around and look for spark. Best of luck to ya…ignition systems and wiring can be nerve racking sometimes!
@@preachermanj not sure if it's good or bad but two of my favorite vehicles are jaguar and dodge. If you own either one long you will have extremely high garage bills or you'll become an auto electrical engineer. I've owned at least 11 jags I can think of ranging from 54 mk VII, to 69 E Type 12 cylinder to 2009 xk8 and as many mopars. I've put in my time wiring. Now I cheat. I built the painless wiring plant 20+ years ago. The owner owes me big time. So if I have wiring issues I get a gm color coded harness from them and get to ripping wires out. You can replace every wire in any car using their harnesses.
@@preachermanj dunno if you've had any experience with high end computer scanners for cars but we got a snap on computer when I was twisting wrenches for TECOM a fleet mgmt co for SWB telephone company. This would been mid 90s I think. This thing was 5k and if you took every mechanic in there put together they couldn't count to 10 without somebody taking their shoes off to use toes as a reference. I was chosen to run the computer on a truck noone could figure out. I went strait to the box to get the instructions. Figd someone smarter than me designed the thing so I'm gonna learn how to use it. Long story short my cuz was the shop manager. He won't read instructions. 1st thing he does is chunk those no matter what they are for. They've been jacking with it for a week before figuring out how to turn it on. I raised hell and called snap on. Dats go by before I get a call back asking what the problem was. Said I need them to over night instructions for the computer. The man laughed and said we thought about that when designing this unit so we included in depth instructions , tips and other help in the system itself for your convenience. I said great. Where's the instructions to find open and use the instructions? This fool had to look up how to look up instructions. Seems they forgot to have a section called instructions. After concuring that part I was shocked to fund the "shake test". I read what to do in diagnosing a particular issue and tried all but one. The shake. I hooked it up started it and started shaking the hell out of every wire I could get hold of. Inside outside under on top then killed it and continued. The whole shop thought I'd lost it. I said I'm following instructions if you idiots could read you'd know. Sure as hell I got to a particular part of the harness it said to shake and move in a particular manner and bingo found the short. I would have never found that even using a wire tracer ,cont testers etc had it not been for that test. Right there that 5k didn't seem like such a rip off. I've never used another system like that but it was amazing and I prob barely scratched the surface of what that computer would do.
@@davidreynolds4684I'm going to go under my hood tomorrow and do this shake test. I think my neighbors will think I'm crazy seeing me all week outside working on it too finally getting to me
@@2.3fox years back I was twisting wrenches for TCOM a fleet MGMT Co for South Western bell. We bought a 6000.00 snap on computer to diagnose issues. I decided to try this thing so I asked where the manual was. I got duhhh I dunno from everyone. I'm weird in that I tend to read instructions on things. I fig someone smarter than me made the thing so I'll learn how by using instructions. Couldn't find any so I hooked the thing up and started pushing buttons.At some point I clicked on shake test. So puzzled as I was i said WTF and stood in the middle of the shop holding the computer hooked up to a truck and I started shaking. They thought I was having a seizure. After admitting I knew that's not what it meant I called snap on. 1st I was told the instruction are in the computer. No hard copy. Also no instructions as to how to find instructions on the computer. 2nd I was told to connect the computer grab a hold of wires and wiring harnesses and shake the shit out of them. I did and it worked great. Before I did the test there was nothing wrong with the truck. No issues or codes. After the shake test I had shorts,open circuits,engine codes you name it. The genius that came up with that function on the tool was brilliant. I realize the purpose of the shake test but it can bite you in the ass about as much as it can help. If you get into a dash gremlin situation on this or any vehicle especially if Edward scissor hands was there before you and cut wires here and there don't freak out. If it's better to cut your losses than pay thousands to have it rigged or many thousands to have it rewired contact Painless Wiring. They make complete harnesses for cars boats race cars etc. All are GM color coded. All have specific detailed instructions as to what goes where and you literally go in and remove every wire in the thing and start from scratch. I demoed their original plant and built their new one a couple decades ago. If you're not colorblind, wearing a helmet and riding the short bus to school you really can rewire a vehicle without needing an engineering degree from MIT. I'm a Dodge and Jag lover. I've rewired a bunch of them before painless and after. They are the way to go if needed. It's in ft worth Texas. Coincidentally in an old Southwestern Bell Att building who's trucks I used to work on. Good luck
So Play no play. Makes sense to me. Got a 96 with an inline 4.9 but I do have spark. We'll keep this in mind
Use Anderson SB 175 connectors for the battery to trolling motor hook up. Also you might want to check in on your outboard motor. The cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the boat for best performance and speed. The lower the foot is in the water the more drag and slower speed. I have the same motor on my john boat and I raised it up and the difference was amazing. I used a TH Marine mini jack plate.
Awesome…thank you so much!
Thanks for the heads up I will keep an eye out for that problem from now on. That's the kind of thing that can drive you crazy trying to find.
What is going on with the lower unit is there 2 find on it ? I also just sold my larger bass boat. What's your opinion on a flat bottom compared to the one you have there ?
There are two extra fins on there. When I bought it, the guy said the previous owner that he got it from had added those. He said he thought it was to help protect the prop from rocks. They may also be there for stability or control. I’m not 100% sure of their purpose. On the flat bottom, I’ve only ridden in one a couple times at low speed… Supposedly they have pros and cons over the semi v hull. Someone else may be able to give you more detailed advice, but I would say a flat bottom would work just fine. I’ve heard they are a little faster than comparable semi V boats. I’ve also heard that they ride a bit rougher in rough water. I would imagine the flat bottom would be easier for standing/walking especially toward the front area. I’ve also read that it’s better to get at least a 42 or 48 inch wide boat. If you’re planning on a flat bottom for space and stability. One of my worries in buying a small boat was potentially flipping it over… I think, for both of these, you would have to work pretty hard to do so as in two people standing on the side rail at once. Whatever you decide, I hope it works out well for you ! Again, I really don’t have enough experience to say a lot. Thanks for your comment!
Looking good brother. If we could fish in a blow up raft, I’m sure we will have a blast on that. At least I don’t have to worry about dropping the catfish now 🤦🏻♂️
Did you do anything to the bed like sanding it before you sprayed it except power washing it?
If I remember right, I think I took a wire brush on a grinder to the worst places but that’s about it. We used to a lot of regular truck beds in this same kit and on those for customers, we always scuffed the bed up before applying the bedliner.
the 03-early 04 vgt exhaust vanes they're 10 blade. can't recall off the top of my head but i think its Titan turbos they make a 9 blade exhaust turbine wheel. 9 and 10 blade turbos will Spool significantly faster than the late style 13 blade wheels in my experience getting rid of the VGT on a manual truck gets rid of the biggest advantage a 6.0L has in a manual exhaust braking. and a direct link to the wheels. on a automatic it doesn't matter unless you have a BD diesel tap shifter. the engine braking is almost as good as if not the same as on a manual truck
Hi there, well I'm not surprised there's vertical play in the distributor shaft. The Hall effect mechanism which generates the PIP signal for cylinder recognition and firing is very sensitive to this type of distributor wear. You could have checked the PIP signal from your distributor by monitoring the PIP signal input at the TFI module. The PIP signal is 10 volt sugared wave input with about a 50% duty cycle. You do need an oscilloscope to monitor this waveform, the problem you mentioned would have created jitter and or weak signal to the TFI ignition module and therefore No spark condition. It is important to know that the PIP signal is a base timing 10 degrees before piston TDC, during cranking the TFI module only uses the PIP input signal for spark control, after engine starts the CPU uses the SPOUT signal which is an advance signal of the PIP FOR ENGINE ADVANCING, up to about 30 degrees advance. The Ford EEC IV Ignition design is not very complicated once you understand it clearly , but there are several different type of malfunctions in this Ignition system which can make it very difficult to diagnose/confirm the defective component. I have an 86 GT Mustang and in its lifetime it has had three TFI Ignition modules, the distributor along with the pickup Hall effect sensor is original. Good luck.
No whistle at idle?
That’s the point of the open vgt
Correct…open vgt tunes sound like a gas v8 at idle with no whistle.
@@preachermanj what about open vgt with pilot injection
@@5.43v I dunno…I kinda like the clatter of a 6.0 at idle but I guess if someone wanted it quieter that would be a possibility. I do know they used to make “whisper” tunes for the 7.3’s to use at a drive thru and what not. Not sure if it was actually considered “pilot” injection though.
Hey buddy I have a 89 f250 with a 5.0 turns over, has spark at coil but not at plugs. New distributor and ICM, good fuel pressure could I have bad new parts? Thanks
I would check the distributor cap/rotor first. Do you have the old ones to test with?
Straight pipe?
No…it has a “truck” style muffler on it. Like a big glass pack really.
Correct me if I’m wrong; But you really don’t want heavy boost below 1,500 rpm’s. Heavy boost at low rpm’s is rough on the valve train and rotating assembly, especially the crank bearings. If your engine is bogging down, of course you should drop a gear. That’s just the nature of driving a manual tranny truck. Now we’ve all got different driving styles and desires, but there’s a point where mechanical limits absolutely become the limfac.
While I understand where your coming from and agree to a large extent…I would point out that valve spring rates don’t change with rpm nor does cam lobe profile so I struggle to see how 15 lbs of boost at 1500 rpm would be more damaging than say 5 lbs of boost. Bout the same argument could be made for the rotating assembly as well, save only the fact that the oil pump isn’t producing as much volume at lower rpm’s. However, if I recall…these engines move a massive amount of oil in the first place (along the lines of 18 gallons per minute at max rpm.) So I can’t imagine extra boost at 1500 rpm being an issue there. Another point to consider…the boost I’m making with the vgt at 1500 rpm isn’t drastically more than the truck’s capabilities when it was stock with a vgt. So, again…these things can easily make 1/2 million miles if the factory issues are dealt with early on and the engine is properly cared for. In short, a non-vgt turbo on the 6.0 is dead in the water below 2000 rpm compared to a vgt charger. It’s just that most people never notice it on auto trans trucks due to stall speeds and trans slip. I have a friend with nearly the same truck except an auto and he’s completely happy with a 364.5 sxe non-vgt…even tows heavy with it. But his truck completely stalled out is still turning 1800 rpm on a stock trans/converter…so he is essentially building the same boost psi under load at 1800 rpm as my truck does at 1200 rpm under load. Now his truck will still be climbing above 3500 rpm where mine is out of air…but then if I wanted to spin my tow truck engine over 3500 I would have bought a 5.4 or v10. It all comes down to this on my manual trans, 9000 lb flatbed 6.0…there’s a long (1/4 mile) steep (9/10 percent grade) gravel hill on my driveway that I encounter every day…with the 363 non-vgt, I had to pull that hill at 16-1800 rpm in 1 st gear…changing back to the vgt charger (with absolutely no other alterations…not even the non-vgt tune I am running) I can climb that hill at the same exact speed in 2nd gear at 1100 rpm…and not sling gravel everywhere in the process😂. Additionally, there’s a long steep hill on the highway I deal with every day…probably 1 mile long at 8-9 percent grade…non-vgt charger would not pull that hill in 6th at 55 mph no matter what I tried. It was 5th or plan on a lot of smoke and loosing a lot of speed. With the vgt…I can start up that hill at 45-50 in 6th and bury the speedo long before I get to the top. I agree, driving styles are vastly different from person to person…my point was to caution anyone who was about to invest a lot of time and money in a turbo swap on a manual truck…to consider carefully what you want that truck to do best and how you want the truck to do it. I wish I would have seen a video like this before I did my non-vgt swap and then re-swap😂
@@preachermanj I've driven my truck around with the VGT solenoid unplugged. It's effectively like not having a turbo at all. I noticed no performance change below 1900 rpms. That's where most conventional turbos are meant to apply heavy boost anyway. So I don't really think I'll have a problem with installing a conventional turbo on my ZF6 truck. If you ask me, a strong running engine and good gearing is really what makes hauling a breeze. But again, it mostly comes down to driving style. I also have to ask; What size turbine did you get on the S363?
@@LimaTangoZulu Agreed…driving style! I’d rather have the low end torque and sacrifice above 3000 rpm…especially when I’m pulling 25000 gross😂 As far as turbine size and air ratio…lot of water under the bridge since then so I better not speculate…I will say when I ordered the kit I got it from one of if not the biggest 6.0 guys around and told him I wanted the fastest possible spooling for that size turbo so I’m sure that’s what I got. Again, about 1900-2000 rpm is where the 363 started coming alive…so I’d say unplugging your vgt would be close to a similar scenario as if you ran a small non vgt. If your happy with the way the truck drives unplugged…you will likely enjoy a small non vgt. I just couldn’t sacrifice that much under 2000.
@@preachermanj it seems like you’d enjoy a CAT 3126/C7 or a DT466 more than a 6.0. The 6.0 has a rather crappy powerband for slow turning applications.
@@LimaTangoZulu I’ve owned several 7.3s …my 6.0 will pull with the 7.3 no problem. I built the truck/engine from the ground up for the purpose of towing. Not exactly sure what your getting at but I work on 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4s all the time. Bought my first 7.3 in a 95’ 5 speed truck and been with psd since.
Glad I found this video. I run a Borg 363 and 175/30’s in my automatic 2005 truck, and was recently thinking about a similar setup for my 2003 ZF6 truck. Glad I seen this first
How’s that setup as a daily? I want to do a 363 with 175/75s
I was thinking about 363 with 175/75s how’s it all around with the 5r?
6.0 was the introduction of the vgt turbo for the ford pickups, the engineers definitely knew what they were doing as far as air flow management, that's looking passed all the other shortcomings the engines had before the head studs and egr deletes were completed.
I have a 95 F250 with a 5.8 I’m having the same symptoms. Truck runs fine when cold, warms up and randomly dies. it will crank, and crank with nothing. Let it sit 5 or 10 minutes, it starts back up and runs fine
I have a 5.0 liter and it's doing the same thing. I've tested everything and everything checks out except for the except for the holographic sensor going to the ignition control module. But if it's just the up-and-down play wouldn't that mean the vehicle would start back up if you just took the cap off and lift it up on the shaft as you were rocking it back and forth. Theoretically it would start back up again. And it does not quite explain why it would start after it cools down a little bit
@@steveh7108 So I bought a new Auto Zone distributor. I swapped them out ( got it within 4 degrees by eye) that solved my problems. Just like this video, there was a tremendous amount of up and down slop on the old distributor.
@@iamgriff I don't have any slop in my distributor shaft left to right or up and down. At least nothing worth mentioning. I'm trying to avoid buying a distributor until I was a way I could test for sure that it is the problem. I had a 95 Mustang 302 and I changed the distributor and ignition control modular and everything everyone told me to but it never solved the problem so this time around with my Bronco I want to actually find a proof positive test.
@@steveh7108 Yeah, I threw my wallet at the problem (work truck pulling a trailer) I started with fuel filter, the control module, then ignition switch under the dash, then a coil and solenoid, fuel pump relay, all in that order. A cap and rotor was half the price of the distributor, the PIP sensor was 25-30 bucks. I figured ala carte parts, plus my labor to take the old distributor apart. It was easier to get the new durolast assembly from the zone. Now old “Thirsty” is back to making me money.