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Thanks for your video. If anyone knows , are there are any side shooter fogs for ditch that sae complent. Thanks in advance & happy holidays.

This is exactly what happens. Non vgt is only good for a racing configuration.

How many bottles did you use to cover the whole bed?

What grit did you use to sand the bed before spraying?

Have you every seen a black distributor modules

Helped out a lot

Thanks for your help, buddy! I went through and soldered on both sides of the fitting that you said about the brake light that comes on. It’s been on for a couple of years and if I beat my fist on the dash it comes off. I even took the dash apart, and if I put something in between the plug-in and the gauge cluster and wedged it between the two of the light would stay off…lol. It finally stopped staying off and stayed on about a year ago so I just kind of gave up. Well, the other thing that’s been happening is my fuel gauge mysteriously started sticking at a quarter of a tank and wouldn’t go any lower and I eventually ran out of gas…of course. I made sure for the last two years when I got close to a quarter tank go to the gas station. Then the gas gauge stopped going to full and would only go to 3/4 full in the last year, which really started riling me up. So I tore into it today to figure out what was going on. I soldered where you said decoder for the brake light. Before doing so I could wiggle the left top connector and it would go on and off. It now stays on and won’t go off. That’s probably because now my wheel bearing on the front right side that are replaced two years ago is not reading so it’s probably just doing its job now. I did notice another little spot right to the left of where you said to solder for The brake light that didn’t look too healthy. I touched the little connector with my solder down that didn’t look great in it completely came off of the mother board. Well, that obviously was my fuel gauge connection because after I soldered it, my fuel gauge went to 3/4’s full. Like a dummy, I tapped it with my hand until it went up past full and it wasn’t full. I headed to the gas station to fill up my tank, so I at least knew it was full and then I had to play with the needle few times to make sure it was just below empty when the truck shut off. It was still being a little finicky a couple of times and went to 3/4 of a tank and then after a few seconds it rolls up past the full mark. Seems to be working now and goes right to the empty mark when I shut the truck off I’ll take the fuel gauge working over a brake light staying on….whoo hooo! Thanks!

that is a plastic rivet puller

This is exactly what my ‘95 F150 with the 302 is doing. I also noticed when it cuts out, the rpm gage drops to zero right away. It’s a stick, when it cuts out it’s usually back on in a second or two. Same no start issue occasionally. Again, during normal cranking, I can see the rpm gage bounce a little while cranking, then it starts. If it does not bounce at all, it won’t start. I’ve chased ground wires, fuses, relays, I will replace the distributor next. I unfortunately don’t have any diagnostic equipment.

I am interested in the OBDII port and how it is wired. If you have any information please let me know? Thanks and I enjoyed your video...

Do you have any thoughts on an electronic boost fooler?

I have a 550 with a homemade flat bed similar to this. Definitely gonna do something similar

There is a much easier fix for this issue. The lack of voltage ( 5 volts ) going to the break fluid level sensor from the instrument cluster because of the circuit board connection. Just add 5 volts to the dark green/ yellow stripe wire using a 12 to 5 volt reducer. Wire is easily accessible at the instrument cluster left side connector.

Now that's a truck

fummins

Great video, I like how i got see what this actually looks like and while learning the symptoms your customer had. Also you explaining the long term effects or speeded effect! I have a question about a man rebuilt 10k mile ford lima 2.3l sohc 4 spark plug engine that i had for 1989 mustang since high school. Its the third year with this engine though. My symptoms that first appeared were dying at red lights as well 3 seconds before that light. Next symptoms were hard starts for 3 cycle times, then intermittently the car would try to start itself once or twice a week when i had got back in from the store and tried to start it myself on the first try. Then came no acceleration when trying to open the throttle for either cruising, passing, or uphill. Feels like it will go better when pressing 1/4 throttle or less then slightly increase the opening to half way to get somewhat close to that 88 bhp or less back, can you please point me in the right direction!!

What brand is the flatbed?

Thank you so much for this video i have a 2005 350 ccsw short bed 4x4 with 190/30s fass 165 regulated return with fuel bowl delete, atlas 80 ficm tune kc jetfire 1, odawg sr3, mishimoto intercooler and radiator, so cal billet cac pipes, no limit cai, mecanical fan clutch bpd waterpump, bulletproofed with fire ringed heads, arp studs, deleted, 4 inch all the way with mbrp y pipe bd manifolds, south bend dusl disc, spd tune gear head full fuel warren hot street tune, innovative race tune and blessed race tune, and it is nothing like automatics with half the mods that i have done because of loosing boost going from 3-6 gears and im like you i hate driving over 2000 rpms while daily driving let alone towing which i do alot of. I was just looking at a non vgt setup thinking it would help but i was afraid of what you are warning me about that it would be even a bigger turd and low end rpms which i dont want to sacrifice the little power i do have down low for power after 2500 rpms which i never do lol i wanted a reliable tow truck that can pass when needed and i am really disappointed with how easy it falls on its face if i dont redline it with any weight behind me. O well tho other than that i love the zf6 had one in my durmax as well just wish it stayed in boost better i just dont want to drive the piss out of it everytime i shift it gets old. I got to say the 190s are lot more fun than my 155s and the ficm tune helped a ton too. I am thinking about going with kcs stage 3 dual ball bearing next its just expensive. Thank you for the video i needed to see it

U done the right thing by Cummins swapping it. The truck isn’t the problem the ford truck is amazing it’s that junk international engine under the hood, now u have ur self a good truck

Glad you got it going and hope it does well. Think it will keep up with Casper 2.0? Asking for a friend 😏

I have done a few of these swaps and I can confirm that they are a lot of work looking great 👍

How can I tell if the gear is cast gear or a steel gear without a part number?

Where did you get that t to the degass bottle from the rad hose??

Thx for the info big help. Gonna save me a lot of time not taking the whole front end off. 👍🏻

Nice work, Jeremy. What website were you referring to -- some other ham's design? Thanks a lot, OM -- 73 de DU3/NN3M

The small 821 next to the big one was my problem on my 2008 f150 but I still went in and touched up the soldering on all of the joints on that side of the circuit board and now everything works as it should

Very good info, I wish I would seen this sooner...

The reason it sits so high is due to the fact that it’s flat and does not drop down between the tire humps like a factory truck bed.

I had the same drama with my 5.0 so i took the scroll pins out and pulled the gear and bush off then re drilled the bush 1/2 way around with a new pin hole about 40 thou to take up the gap that was 35000 miles ago never had a problem since , Great vid Rob NSW Australia

Perfect video. Tanks.

The first guy on the internet that i've seen with a brain. You are right about everything stated in this video. It's hard to explain this to people unless they've gone through it...

Great video with valuable information that is easily overlooked.! Thanks again !

How they holding up?

The top left white circle thing is your fuel gage, bottom one is for Volts,, as I'm sure you already know by now.

How high does it sit over the bed when installed? Total inspiration i have a similar bed and this is a great solution 😊

Honestly not happy with my blessed tunes. Definitely aren’t as spicy as the warren tunes.

Peak torque is at 2200, towing through Pacific Northwest pretty common to be at 2500 to maintain power and proper EGTs. Even with VGT if you get into low RPM on grade the truck will not like it, in auto. 190cc generally are a little big for towing, and if you had something like a smelding set up with a smaller exhaust side it probably would spool a lot faster. They are running like a 0.71, and they say they spool at 1600. Try getting a turbo with a smaller exhaust side for better spool up and maybe lowering your injector size if you are getting hot towing.

and I have a old Elgin 7.5 hp motor ❤ I love these old school boats and motors

Mines a 1961 but in great condition

👍🙂 Nice boat I found me a 12 foot Montgomery wards boat so I definitely understand everything your talking about and you gave me a lot of pointers I'm thankful 😊

Thanks Jeremy for sharing the troubleshooting tips and methods. I was wanting to get a good NOS distributor as a spare without pulling my existing one to find out which type gear it has the steel or the sintered metal cast type. Where was that label located on the distributor body? I have a 1997 F-250hd obs 5.8L with 188K on her now that is my daily driver. Thank you for your time Jeremy.

Ive got a 90 f150 with 4.9 i just put a new fuel pump in a month ago. Last week i got in to go to the bank and it acted like it did before the new pump. It cranked fine but didnt try to turn over. I checked the fuel rail pressure (pushed the stem in on the valve) shot gas good. I grabbbed starter fluid and shot some in the throttle bidyband it tried to turn over. Did it a couple times and it fired up. Drove the hell out of it. Did fine for a week. Friend went to take it to work and i found a note it wouldnt start. I checked fuel. Ok checked spark with a harbor freight piece of crap plug in plug wire tester. It sparked 1 time on the first cylinder then nothing for several cranks. Tried the second cylinder. Same thing 1 time. 3rd same 4th same. Put it on coil to dist cap sparked like it should. Moved wires checked cap &rotor all are new. Very little miles on those and wires. Tried starting . Same thing crank no start. Tried today no start. Checked spark got nothing. Finally checked tester no continuity. Threw it down the street. Put a spark plug in the wire and grounded on valve cover bolt got no spark. Pulled dist cap.cranked and rotor spun steadily counter clockwise. I grabbed it to see if it woukd stop under pressure but it just twisted my wrist and kept going. Coil has constant power on one lead with key on off and on when cranking on the other terminal. My ignition system is different than yours but i wonder if that same issue would cause what its doing. I lifted up the rotor cap enough for it to pop off but i didnt feel the shaft lift or have any play in it. Im stumped. If it would spark im tempted to spill 20 gallons of gas all over it

So Play no play. Makes sense to me. Got a 96 with an inline 4.9 but I do have spark. We'll keep this in mind

Use Anderson SB 175 connectors for the battery to trolling motor hook up. Also you might want to check in on your outboard motor. The cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the boat for best performance and speed. The lower the foot is in the water the more drag and slower speed. I have the same motor on my john boat and I raised it up and the difference was amazing. I used a TH Marine mini jack plate.

Thanks for the heads up I will keep an eye out for that problem from now on. That's the kind of thing that can drive you crazy trying to find.

What is going on with the lower unit is there 2 find on it ? I also just sold my larger bass boat. What's your opinion on a flat bottom compared to the one you have there ?

Looking good brother. If we could fish in a blow up raft, I’m sure we will have a blast on that. At least I don’t have to worry about dropping the catfish now 🤦🏻‍♂️

Did you do anything to the bed like sanding it before you sprayed it except power washing it?

the 03-early 04 vgt exhaust vanes they're 10 blade. can't recall off the top of my head but i think its Titan turbos they make a 9 blade exhaust turbine wheel. 9 and 10 blade turbos will Spool significantly faster than the late style 13 blade wheels in my experience getting rid of the VGT on a manual truck gets rid of the biggest advantage a 6.0L has in a manual exhaust braking. and a direct link to the wheels. on a automatic it doesn't matter unless you have a BD diesel tap shifter. the engine braking is almost as good as if not the same as on a manual truck

Hi there, well I'm not surprised there's vertical play in the distributor shaft. The Hall effect mechanism which generates the PIP signal for cylinder recognition and firing is very sensitive to this type of distributor wear. You could have checked the PIP signal from your distributor by monitoring the PIP signal input at the TFI module. The PIP signal is 10 volt sugared wave input with about a 50% duty cycle. You do need an oscilloscope to monitor this waveform, the problem you mentioned would have created jitter and or weak signal to the TFI ignition module and therefore No spark condition. It is important to know that the PIP signal is a base timing 10 degrees before piston TDC, during cranking the TFI module only uses the PIP input signal for spark control, after engine starts the CPU uses the SPOUT signal which is an advance signal of the PIP FOR ENGINE ADVANCING, up to about 30 degrees advance. The Ford EEC IV Ignition design is not very complicated once you understand it clearly , but there are several different type of malfunctions in this Ignition system which can make it very difficult to diagnose/confirm the defective component. I have an 86 GT Mustang and in its lifetime it has had three TFI Ignition modules, the distributor along with the pickup Hall effect sensor is original. Good luck.