Видео

Hope that takes care of it for ya!

Yes Sir…send me your email or cell number to preacherman.hull1@gmail.com and I’ll send you the diagrams!

Honestly, not real familiar with those. Pretty much taken care of in the tune if your running custom tunes I think.

Thank you for answering. I have an 06. Lbcc 4x4. I put a zf6 and a manual t-case in it. I was pleasantly surprised when i discovered that a previous owner had put an 03 turbo in it. The actual conversion was alot more time and money than i was anticipating from watching 7.3 MT swaps. New rear engine plate. ( justb the rear main seal tool is $300). New cross member. Both drive shafts re lengthened. The clutch is $$$. I cant even remember all the surprises. I went all the way, gauge cluster, harness swap, etc. For the life of me ill never understand why ford used a different cab. Anyways, i dont like the clutch master cylinder. It looks like it belongs in a kids toy? Any thoughts on it? And lastly, any thoughts on short shifter?

I have heard the short throat shifters are a very nice addition… Although I’ve never actually owned one. I did drive a truck with one a couple years ago, and it was smooth. On the master/slave, there are upgrades out there, but as well as I know, they are all made in the same basic way. I agree, they do look a bit cheap. However, I’ve had several, and they seem to work, and last really well.

It’s been really good so far…gonna be the first heavy tow next week so hopefully all goes well. 10-11k on some 7-8% grades so we will see.

Man, i have the same car, same year and now it started to act up like yours..

To tell ya the truth…I can’t remember. It might have been a cm or something like that.

@@preachermanj shit man it looks nice I too have flatbed 6.0 but I was looking to get one with skirted sides and boxes

If your in it for the long haul I’m reading about compound setups people are doing with the factory vgt turbo still in place. Should spool up down low as good or theoretically better than it does now. I’ll say this, if compounds work on a 6.0 like they do on a 5.9…especially keeping the vgt…it would spool quick!!

Yes I don't ever plan on selling my truck I enjoy driving a stick way to much. So how much do you think your gonna be in for one of those kits and how reliable are they for daily towing

@@user-iy3uy3xi4q Now that I don’t no…just was reading about it.

I have been eyeing the socal billet compounds and the no limit compounds both have keep your vgt turbo but both are about 6500 with another turbo that's a lot of change at one time to explain to the misses when I just spent 5700 on 190/30s and a south bend dual disq for the 2nd time lol. I love the 190s tho I just need to get better tunes for them all my good tunes are for my 155s I only have blessed shift on the flys for my 190s. My stage 1 Jetfire just ain't clearing them babys up in any gear lol it smokes like a freight train all the way through lol. Kinda annoying but it definitely moves a lot better just gets dumb hot now on my oil temps

Who's tune do you run most of the time? I love my tsd tunes and my warrens

Ah…might not stay to far behind ya!😂

@@preachermanj if I blow enough smoke you will have to slow down cause you can’t see 😂😂

@@southmountainautomotive5919 😂

Roller cam engines use steel gear. Flat tappet cams are cast. I believe Ford Windsor engines started roller cam/steel gear in 94’. Also, cast gear will look like cast…steel will be smooth.

I welded it up. But a better way to do it is get an inline piece just like that except with a radiator cap. Then just plug that port on the degass bottle.

I did a slightly modified version of this. www.wv7u.com/mast/mast.html

Still doing great…no fading or “yellowing”…no pealing clear coat.

Just measured…it’s at 6 7/8” dead level from the top of the bed to the top of the platform on the hitch. On my setup, even at that…there’s still more clearance than on the other truck with a pickup bed. It has worked out great for me!

@@preachermanj you are so kind. Thank you!

The non-VGT will certainly be more reliable overall, hands down, and you can use a jake brake/exhaust brake set up with a manual on a non-VGT, it would be mechanical and able to be controlled on shifter.

Just throw a Socal Billet s300/s400 compound on it, your problems will probably disappear power and EGT wise lol

To tell you the truth I can’t remember which gear it had. And the old distributor is long gone now, so I’m not much help to you on the label. I’ll try to do some checking tonight and see if I can verify anything for you.

F4TE (casting number) blocks built after late 93’ in the trucks were apparently roller cams and required a steel gear. The casting number should be just above the oil pan bolt rail and near the starter. Maybe that will steer you in the right direction!

@@preachermanj thank you very much

Could be the same issue as mine. Might also be the ignition module. I’d check wiring too…sometimes you can find a bad connection by having someone else spin it over while you move the harnesses around and look for spark. Best of luck to ya…ignition systems and wiring can be nerve racking sometimes!

@@preachermanj not sure if it's good or bad but two of my favorite vehicles are jaguar and dodge. If you own either one long you will have extremely high garage bills or you'll become an auto electrical engineer. I've owned at least 11 jags I can think of ranging from 54 mk VII, to 69 E Type 12 cylinder to 2009 xk8 and as many mopars. I've put in my time wiring. Now I cheat. I built the painless wiring plant 20+ years ago. The owner owes me big time. So if I have wiring issues I get a gm color coded harness from them and get to ripping wires out. You can replace every wire in any car using their harnesses.

@@preachermanj dunno if you've had any experience with high end computer scanners for cars but we got a snap on computer when I was twisting wrenches for TECOM a fleet mgmt co for SWB telephone company. This would been mid 90s I think. This thing was 5k and if you took every mechanic in there put together they couldn't count to 10 without somebody taking their shoes off to use toes as a reference. I was chosen to run the computer on a truck noone could figure out. I went strait to the box to get the instructions. Figd someone smarter than me designed the thing so I'm gonna learn how to use it. Long story short my cuz was the shop manager. He won't read instructions. 1st thing he does is chunk those no matter what they are for. They've been jacking with it for a week before figuring out how to turn it on. I raised hell and called snap on. Dats go by before I get a call back asking what the problem was. Said I need them to over night instructions for the computer. The man laughed and said we thought about that when designing this unit so we included in depth instructions , tips and other help in the system itself for your convenience. I said great. Where's the instructions to find open and use the instructions? This fool had to look up how to look up instructions. Seems they forgot to have a section called instructions. After concuring that part I was shocked to fund the "shake test". I read what to do in diagnosing a particular issue and tried all but one. The shake. I hooked it up started it and started shaking the hell out of every wire I could get hold of. Inside outside under on top then killed it and continued. The whole shop thought I'd lost it. I said I'm following instructions if you idiots could read you'd know. Sure as hell I got to a particular part of the harness it said to shake and move in a particular manner and bingo found the short. I would have never found that even using a wire tracer ,cont testers etc had it not been for that test. Right there that 5k didn't seem like such a rip off. I've never used another system like that but it was amazing and I prob barely scratched the surface of what that computer would do.

​@@davidreynolds4684I'm going to go under my hood tomorrow and do this shake test. I think my neighbors will think I'm crazy seeing me all week outside working on it too finally getting to me

@@2.3fox years back I was twisting wrenches for TCOM a fleet MGMT Co for South Western bell. We bought a 6000.00 snap on computer to diagnose issues. I decided to try this thing so I asked where the manual was. I got duhhh I dunno from everyone. I'm weird in that I tend to read instructions on things. I fig someone smarter than me made the thing so I'll learn how by using instructions. Couldn't find any so I hooked the thing up and started pushing buttons.At some point I clicked on shake test. So puzzled as I was i said WTF and stood in the middle of the shop holding the computer hooked up to a truck and I started shaking. They thought I was having a seizure. After admitting I knew that's not what it meant I called snap on. 1st I was told the instruction are in the computer. No hard copy. Also no instructions as to how to find instructions on the computer. 2nd I was told to connect the computer grab a hold of wires and wiring harnesses and shake the shit out of them. I did and it worked great. Before I did the test there was nothing wrong with the truck. No issues or codes. After the shake test I had shorts,open circuits,engine codes you name it. The genius that came up with that function on the tool was brilliant. I realize the purpose of the shake test but it can bite you in the ass about as much as it can help. If you get into a dash gremlin situation on this or any vehicle especially if Edward scissor hands was there before you and cut wires here and there don't freak out. If it's better to cut your losses than pay thousands to have it rigged or many thousands to have it rewired contact Painless Wiring. They make complete harnesses for cars boats race cars etc. All are GM color coded. All have specific detailed instructions as to what goes where and you literally go in and remove every wire in the thing and start from scratch. I demoed their original plant and built their new one a couple decades ago. If you're not colorblind, wearing a helmet and riding the short bus to school you really can rewire a vehicle without needing an engineering degree from MIT. I'm a Dodge and Jag lover. I've rewired a bunch of them before painless and after. They are the way to go if needed. It's in ft worth Texas. Coincidentally in an old Southwestern Bell Att building who's trucks I used to work on. Good luck

Awesome…thank you so much!

There are two extra fins on there. When I bought it, the guy said the previous owner that he got it from had added those. He said he thought it was to help protect the prop from rocks. They may also be there for stability or control. I’m not 100% sure of their purpose. On the flat bottom, I’ve only ridden in one a couple times at low speed… Supposedly they have pros and cons over the semi v hull. Someone else may be able to give you more detailed advice, but I would say a flat bottom would work just fine. I’ve heard they are a little faster than comparable semi V boats. I’ve also heard that they ride a bit rougher in rough water. I would imagine the flat bottom would be easier for standing/walking especially toward the front area. I’ve also read that it’s better to get at least a 42 or 48 inch wide boat. If you’re planning on a flat bottom for space and stability. One of my worries in buying a small boat was potentially flipping it over… I think, for both of these, you would have to work pretty hard to do so as in two people standing on the side rail at once. Whatever you decide, I hope it works out well for you ! Again, I really don’t have enough experience to say a lot. Thanks for your comment!

If I remember right, I think I took a wire brush on a grinder to the worst places but that’s about it. We used to a lot of regular truck beds in this same kit and on those for customers, we always scuffed the bed up before applying the bedliner.

That’s the point of the open vgt

Correct…open vgt tunes sound like a gas v8 at idle with no whistle.

​@@preachermanj what about open vgt with pilot injection

@@5.43v I dunno…I kinda like the clatter of a 6.0 at idle but I guess if someone wanted it quieter that would be a possibility. I do know they used to make “whisper” tunes for the 7.3’s to use at a drive thru and what not. Not sure if it was actually considered “pilot” injection though.

I would check the distributor cap/rotor first. Do you have the old ones to test with?

No…it has a “truck” style muffler on it. Like a big glass pack really.

While I understand where your coming from and agree to a large extent…I would point out that valve spring rates don’t change with rpm nor does cam lobe profile so I struggle to see how 15 lbs of boost at 1500 rpm would be more damaging than say 5 lbs of boost. Bout the same argument could be made for the rotating assembly as well, save only the fact that the oil pump isn’t producing as much volume at lower rpm’s. However, if I recall…these engines move a massive amount of oil in the first place (along the lines of 18 gallons per minute at max rpm.) So I can’t imagine extra boost at 1500 rpm being an issue there. Another point to consider…the boost I’m making with the vgt at 1500 rpm isn’t drastically more than the truck’s capabilities when it was stock with a vgt. So, again…these things can easily make 1/2 million miles if the factory issues are dealt with early on and the engine is properly cared for. In short, a non-vgt turbo on the 6.0 is dead in the water below 2000 rpm compared to a vgt charger. It’s just that most people never notice it on auto trans trucks due to stall speeds and trans slip. I have a friend with nearly the same truck except an auto and he’s completely happy with a 364.5 sxe non-vgt…even tows heavy with it. But his truck completely stalled out is still turning 1800 rpm on a stock trans/converter…so he is essentially building the same boost psi under load at 1800 rpm as my truck does at 1200 rpm under load. Now his truck will still be climbing above 3500 rpm where mine is out of air…but then if I wanted to spin my tow truck engine over 3500 I would have bought a 5.4 or v10. It all comes down to this on my manual trans, 9000 lb flatbed 6.0…there’s a long (1/4 mile) steep (9/10 percent grade) gravel hill on my driveway that I encounter every day…with the 363 non-vgt, I had to pull that hill at 16-1800 rpm in 1 st gear…changing back to the vgt charger (with absolutely no other alterations…not even the non-vgt tune I am running) I can climb that hill at the same exact speed in 2nd gear at 1100 rpm…and not sling gravel everywhere in the process😂. Additionally, there’s a long steep hill on the highway I deal with every day…probably 1 mile long at 8-9 percent grade…non-vgt charger would not pull that hill in 6th at 55 mph no matter what I tried. It was 5th or plan on a lot of smoke and loosing a lot of speed. With the vgt…I can start up that hill at 45-50 in 6th and bury the speedo long before I get to the top. I agree, driving styles are vastly different from person to person…my point was to caution anyone who was about to invest a lot of time and money in a turbo swap on a manual truck…to consider carefully what you want that truck to do best and how you want the truck to do it. I wish I would have seen a video like this before I did my non-vgt swap and then re-swap😂

@@preachermanj I've driven my truck around with the VGT solenoid unplugged. It's effectively like not having a turbo at all. I noticed no performance change below 1900 rpms. That's where most conventional turbos are meant to apply heavy boost anyway. So I don't really think I'll have a problem with installing a conventional turbo on my ZF6 truck. If you ask me, a strong running engine and good gearing is really what makes hauling a breeze. But again, it mostly comes down to driving style. I also have to ask; What size turbine did you get on the S363?

@@LimaTangoZulu Agreed…driving style! I’d rather have the low end torque and sacrifice above 3000 rpm…especially when I’m pulling 25000 gross😂 As far as turbine size and air ratio…lot of water under the bridge since then so I better not speculate…I will say when I ordered the kit I got it from one of if not the biggest 6.0 guys around and told him I wanted the fastest possible spooling for that size turbo so I’m sure that’s what I got. Again, about 1900-2000 rpm is where the 363 started coming alive…so I’d say unplugging your vgt would be close to a similar scenario as if you ran a small non vgt. If your happy with the way the truck drives unplugged…you will likely enjoy a small non vgt. I just couldn’t sacrifice that much under 2000.

@@preachermanj it seems like you’d enjoy a CAT 3126/C7 or a DT466 more than a 6.0. The 6.0 has a rather crappy powerband for slow turning applications.

@@LimaTangoZulu I’ve owned several 7.3s …my 6.0 will pull with the 7.3 no problem. I built the truck/engine from the ground up for the purpose of towing. Not exactly sure what your getting at but I work on 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4s all the time. Bought my first 7.3 in a 95’ 5 speed truck and been with psd since.

How’s that setup as a daily? I want to do a 363 with 175/75s

I was thinking about 363 with 175/75s how’s it all around with the 5r?

I have a 5.0 liter and it's doing the same thing. I've tested everything and everything checks out except for the except for the holographic sensor going to the ignition control module. But if it's just the up-and-down play wouldn't that mean the vehicle would start back up if you just took the cap off and lift it up on the shaft as you were rocking it back and forth. Theoretically it would start back up again. And it does not quite explain why it would start after it cools down a little bit

@@steveh7108 So I bought a new Auto Zone distributor. I swapped them out ( got it within 4 degrees by eye) that solved my problems. Just like this video, there was a tremendous amount of up and down slop on the old distributor.

@@iamgriff I don't have any slop in my distributor shaft left to right or up and down. At least nothing worth mentioning. I'm trying to avoid buying a distributor until I was a way I could test for sure that it is the problem. I had a 95 Mustang 302 and I changed the distributor and ignition control modular and everything everyone told me to but it never solved the problem so this time around with my Bronco I want to actually find a proof positive test.

@@steveh7108 Yeah, I threw my wallet at the problem (work truck pulling a trailer) I started with fuel filter, the control module, then ignition switch under the dash, then a coil and solenoid, fuel pump relay, all in that order. A cap and rotor was half the price of the distributor, the PIP sensor was 25-30 bucks. I figured ala carte parts, plus my labor to take the old distributor apart. It was easier to get the new durolast assembly from the zone. Now old “Thirsty” is back to making me money.