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april 2023

@DerekNheiley bao lâu sau khi mua thì máy bị vấn đề này?

What has your experience been with the Dynapro?

I might have gotten the idea from another keyboard builder, but i don’t recall off the top of my head if it’s not mentioned in the git change-log or release notes on github.

Great question @kirkellis4329 In terms of thermal bridging, double stud walls still have some weak areas. Where the floor supports the exterior wall, you still have thermal bridging though every single floor joist. That area may be less than the total thermal bridging through larsen truss webs, but not by much, and it’s concentrated where your toes will detect it walking on a floor. For this project, I didn’t want to lose floorspace on renovating an existing house, so a double wall was not a great option. Additionally double walls often still have some intermediate plywood webs to tie them back to interior walls. But this depends on local codes and/or seismic & wind design requirements for your area. I believe the roof trusses have to be designed to have any type of additional system hanging off of them. For my project that wasn’t an option. Also, asking a 20 foot long board to be perfectly straight without webs every few feet is a pretty big ask. Ultimately, for me, a larsen truss system beat out several layers of exterior rigid insulation because of cost and ease of hitting structure. The larsen trusses were easier to install and hit a stud on the load bearing 2x4 wall. They also allowed for much more obvious connection points for vertical strapping. The materials and shorter screws were also significantly cheaper than 8” ~ 9” screws needed to install strapping over top of several layers of rigid insualtion. Finally, based on some rough math[s] I believe there’s less thermal bridging through my larsen truss webs (1/2” x 7.25”plywood) than through 1/4” (7mm) screws used to attach strapping over top of rigid insulation. Steel conducts heat way better than wood.

@@DerekNheiley Those are all good points. I am not a fan of foam board, due to the large and long screws penetrating as you say but also because of the insect tunneling and the noxious smoke in a fire. Using Rockwool board solves the insect and fire issues but is deathly expensive and heavy. In the case of 20' tall walls, I suppose intermediate ties back to rim joists at 2nd floor or attic level would be needed to keep them straight. What I like about Larsen trusses is that you do not lose any floor space like with a double stud wall and you also don't unnecessarily increase the length a rafter or joist needs to span since it is the interior wall that is structural. And, as you say, the Larsen extends the insulation layer outside the existing floor joists instead of leaving them as TB. My only "beef" is that the inside chord of the truss seems redundant because the structural stud wall is already there providing that chord when the truss is inline with it. I should need fewer webs with single 2x4 outer chords than trying to use 2x2 chords and still result in a straight wall. Hanging weight off rafters/trusses not designed for it would be a problem, especially on the gable walls, but that is why I mentioned small triangular trusses/brackets near top and bottom to transfer the weight to the rim joists of floors and attic. Attaching only at rim joists also allows the spacing of the studs in the outer wall to be different and staggered compared to the inner studs. In my case, the inner studs would be 24"oc and the outer studs 15"oc to allow 3x5 outer sheathing panels. My plans only include 8" "trusses" so the moment on the rafters wouldn't be very far from the existing support, either. Before I build, an engineer will need to sign off on it all where I live anyway.

In my case (a reno of 2x4 walls instead of 2x6 new build) I’m very limited on where I can run things without adding bulkheads and chase ways outside of walls. Our makeup air intake will be protected by a porch roof covering that area of the back of the house :). Also the first several feet of the duct slope to the exterior to prevent ingress of wet weather. I’m not aware of a residential erv/hrv or even pre-heater that can keep up with a large 600+ cfm exhaust range hood. I believe it’s accepted best practice to not condition make up air due to it’s short lived and localized passage through a house for a short time frame - only when the range hood is active.

Depends if there is an in-line filter or not. If there is no filter, than yes, it the same as opening a window

Another good question. Yes, this is essentially an automated window opener that never forgets. Especially if your exhaust has a timer built in. We will have a large air filter on all the mechanical air intakes into the house.

@bengt_axle regarding a window being simpler and cheaper, there's one scenario that would be a concern. Let's say for example a guest forgets to open the window and it's -10c outside and it's the middle of the winter. You'll start pulling more air through the fresh air intake of your ERV, unbalacing that system and potentially freezing the core. Depending on the ERV, and what type of auxiliary pre-heater and temp sensors are setup, this might work for a while, but is not ideal as you'll still not meet the air requirements for the range hood exhaust. Also if anyone is taking a shower, the exhaust side of the ERV is severely outgunned in a tug of war against the range hood exhaust. So now your bathrooms aren't venting properly either.

1 year😮

3years actually.

Which way does the blade look like it spins?😅

@edwardlouie Burlington, ON, Canada. We already have a ground source heat pump, but no new ductwork yet.

that’s a good question! We’re changing over to a condensing heat pump dryer that doesn’t vent to the exterior at all. Another benefit of these units is that they run on 120v, and come as combo washer dryer units. The trade off is longer drying times.

@@DerekNheiley Love it! Id like to get one for my new house but I doubt ill spend the money on it yet

If i ever outgrow the Bambulab X1C, i think i’ll either bite the bullet and order a commercial / engineering grade high temp enclosed 3d printer from somewhere like visionminer, or just outsource to services like PCBway for final version of a print in an exotic material. For now TPU and PETG are easier to print than ASA and PC and almost as robust.

i ended up returning mine, it wasn’t the machine i was looking for, both in terms of sound levels and size

@@DerekNheiley thanks. I've returned mine as well. the devic e seemed ok but it was spewing a very small particles of plastic (I guess from the blade gasket) into the container. ugh, talk about buying a device to make healthy food and getting ton of microplastics in your food in return :/

@@gaurlglmistrz yikes, although that bad seal sounds like a one-off defect

there is no gimmick , its a proven fact oxidation destroys the food , and promotes degradation of the cells. a easy way to try to is to blend a watermelon with a regular blender vs vacuum blender , you notice a subtle difference in the color/ pink and the taste is very bland, similar to watermelon powders.

it does taste different, it’s very subtle, but i noticed it almost immediately, even though it wasn’t a reason i got a vacuum blender

check out cyboard.digital or bastardkb.com

I ended up returning mine. My daily smoothie with frozen fruit just has this issue to many times. Never heard from custom support after sending the unit back. I hope they come up with a work around if other people also run into this edge case.

I’ve had mine for a week and no issue with the vacuum seal. There’s multiple places it could leak. I noticed it is important to close the lid all the way or else it doesn’t seat against the seal well. I suspect one of the seals may have become unseated and just needed to be pressed back into place

I would also recommend putting all the frozen fruit at the bottom closest to the blade from the get go it starts breaking those down and reduces the jolting impacts from whole chunks hitting the blade individually. It’s better to use the strong motor to break down the frozen fruit immediately.

@@roblumba five months later, what has your experience been like? Would you recommend it?

they are not interchangeable, you need the matching names because of how the parametric case is designed

It's in desc

i think bastardkeyboards has the PCBs in their Scylla DIY kit, or you could search for someone selling Ameoba per key PCBs.

i did contact then, after some questions back and forth i decided to return it, not the machine for me 😢

i think if you use less frozen ingredients, and liquid, and keep the overall volume low, you might have better luck

i didn’t measure in this video, but i believe later i tested and it was approximately 78db. Other blenders like the blendtech classic are much louder at 95db. For reference i currently use a tribest dynapro 2250 with a 3d printed cover which is approximately 80db.

Yes it does, it was about 1/3 the time for me, before i returned it. Mostly with more frozen ingredients that would cause the jar to rattle when starting out.

i don't get it either

Vacuum blenders suck out air that would otherwise oxidize the smoothie sooner. it also makes the smoothie taste better. it's a whole thing

Upgrades the nutrient value, taste & appearance. Also preserves longer. You get more out of your nutrition

Sadly, not if you used chains and metal zip ties 😢

Actually he probably didn't have his socket set or cordless drill on him to unfasten the gate to be able to lift the gate off of the ground plates.

good question, for the flush beam i got some support boards screwed on, then i was able to lift each end of the beam manually and slide in some boards, and finally an inflatable shim to fine tune it, you can see it at 1:45

Brushes dirty or just worn out?

i would order a holder as a backup so you don’t have to pay for shipping again for such a small part but to answer your question, it was glued in place by hand with a little bit of patience and was very reliable, although not easily serviced if you needed to rewire something later

They don’t even make those anymore. Only the 650 and Pro 800

@@LTNAMS that's a shame.

It’s interesting in how much Blendtec has gone downhill when it comes to their quality control. It got worse after they sold their company to an equity firm couple years back

@@LTNAMS I don't think their quality went down, I just think they don't market well

Honestly, I’ve gone through multiple until they finally send me a decently built unit. I dissembled my now returned pro 800 to see what was causing this and the problem has to do with the insulation foam rubbing on the actual motor cooling fan itself, causing the foam to either burn or shred due to the people at blendtec not assembling these units properly. That’s also with a combination of the restrictive airflow by design, causing the motor to prematurely overheat. Their quality control has definitely taken a big hit since they’re no longer family owned as they sold their company to an equity firm a couple years back. If only Vitamix made a residential version of their quiet one blenders, but even those have a 50/50 chance of not breaking down.

i was tempted to take one apart myself, blendtec didn’t even want the last DOA unit back so it’s still sitting in my basement in a box thanks for the info, it’s crazy this is such a hard thing for any company to do well :/

an open source ergonomic computer keyboard

i solved it by selling the printer and buying a Bambulab X1C 😂

Im 4436 🤪

584 but still waiting 🤣