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@everythingblackpowder 1:23 That’s where I learned to make it. Like you already learned, the longer you mill it the better it will be. +17 IS necessary. I do 24 and I call that good on batches of 100grams. I do 48 hours for 200 grams and that’s all my tumbling mill can handle. You mentioned Dextrin. If you don’t compress into pucks with a 20ton press like the commercial powder is, then you’ll definitely need to use Dextrin or your grains of powder will be fragile and break down just from carrying it in your flask and using your ramrod. I add just enough (3 grams) of Dextrin to the 100 gram mixture and it’s much more durable Too fine of powder doesn’t get enough air around it to properly combust, hence bigger grains in the barrel than the pan. 2F vs.3F. Last quick tip is very important, is the media. Lead balls break down in your mill from crashing into each other leaving your powder contaminated with lead dust. That causes 2 problems. The powder won’t ignite as well as it would without the lead dust in it. The other problem with lead is it burns very dirty. Causes your touch hole to clog and you get less shots between swabbing out your barrel. Makes it tough to load you’ll ball in fewer shots. Brass ball media holds up much better. Way less contamination. I bought my kNO3 and my Sulfur from Amazon. Way Cheaper. I make my own charcoal using Cottonelle toilet paper or grapevines. 4:47 They at @everythingblackpowder are pretty anal in taking other steps too, but just the few tips I just gave you that I learned on their channel will considerably increase the Speed, Durability, and Cleanliness of your powder. Happy Muzzleloading to My Friends in the Field! 🦌 🦃

Your Pete n poke looking good I just got one to build.thanks for sharing

What size screens do you use for 2 and 3F?? And where did you get them??

Great video. Thank you for sharing.

I have a 1926 Oakland Coupe and Ross made the pistons for that six cylinder.

Chevrolet had a overhead valve V8 back in 1915. Too bad they didn't refine and continue with it. They chose to wait until 1955 for their next V8.

Must have been more than 8 horsepower. Even the model T had twenty horsepower and with only four cylinders.

Notice that this engine has a flat plane crank.

I would carefully clean up every single part and then go from there.

Quick historical correction. The Chinese invented GP in or around the 9th century. The 75%, 15%, 10% formula was developed by the English in 1879.

The magneto coil (high tension winding wrapped around low tension winding - all wound on a pole-piece ) go bad on these and short of winding a new coil the magneto is scrap. Do not despair because a 5ah gel-cell 12v battery and a "universal" ignition coil from NAPA will make sparks for hours of running per charge. MY ZZ came on an old US Army Signal Corps belt driven 110V alternator (Lol - "portable" if you got 8 guys and two pieces of pipe) so I just plugged a trickle charger into the 110 and I am good. PS - The flywheel nut on these units are left hand threads. PSS - I have the Repair Instructions for these and all factory bulletins. The cylinder head's spark plug hole has an "anti-fouler" built into it. It is a small chamber that isolates the spark plug from the combustion chamber and it is there in case the engine becomes worn and burns oil. One of the bulletins said to open the hole in the said ani-fouler up to 1/4" diameter.

By looking at the magneto its around early to mid 1920s older ones had a low tension mag like a webster tri polor with no spark plug they had points in them.😊

The carb is running lean without an airbox and filter and the points may need filing. suck, bang, blow

I had a xl 12 my dad git it in 73 it was blue and white 16" bar slow but powerful no chips but chunks

You sprocket has a groove worn in it and the chain keeps falling into the groove and getting loose and climbs out and it's much tighter. 2 choices are a new spur-gear sprocket (comes with clutch-drum made on it) or switch to PowerMate sprocket that has splines on the clutch drum and a separate (very hard steel) rim runs on the splines and the chain can walk left and right but the tension stays the same.

It should not have grease zerts on it it needs larger greas caps on the mains and get rid of the one on the oiler oil goes in there not grease.

I've been collecting these for 40 years they are not that hard to find. Go to a show sometime you'll see all kinds of them . Any way congrats on finding one that is complete.

A delaval is also a lauson. Alot of engine companies back then would sell there engines to other companies who would put their own tags on.

Old cast and pot metal items don't like hammers. They just go to pieces in one of those oops moments.

1920's cars had to survive the great depression and extended service into 1945. On top of that all the scrap drives of WWII. This all took there toll on how many of these cars actually survived to now. Worth saving. ESPECIALLY in original condition. Especially considering you appear to have most or all important original parts. I get sick of seeing perfectly resorable 1920's era cars turned into rods. The thing about "this 93 year old technology" is that it is so simple to understand how it works AND to rebuild it in ORIGINAL condition. A lot the stuff can actually be taken apart too. Like a Model T ammeter is just screwed together with machine screws. Nowadays that kind of thing is crimped, pressed, riveted together never to come apart again.

There's always a need for a portable handheld power plant. 😂 I love it.

Hey y'all

If nobody told you before, you're an amazing storyteller, I especially liked the "allowed farmers to have the power they needed to run whatever they needed to power wherever they needed" part, and I'm not even joking, bless. Good luck with the restoration.

To rich!!!

No plastic!

the WWII drum corps could march to the beat of this little engine.

That “gunk” is water.

You probably meant early 1900's

Cool find, how long will it take you to restore?

I had one of these back in 1979. Mine was 1975. I was 12 years old. It used to belong to one of my cousins. My sister bought it from him. She don’t like it so she gave it to me. When my cousin owned it. I used to stay with him and we would ride it all aroundtown in South Dakota, very fond memories 1981. I got rid of it and got a kx 125 1980 very good memories about those times I miss the 70s early 80s

Noice but I'd go for the 1853 Enfield

There's a guy in Lebanon, Indiana with Oakland parts right now.

It is getting so that ANY V8 car needs to be saved. CAFE has nearly killed the V8 engine.

Hope they save this car. Oaklands are now extremely rare cars. The people who remember them as new cars are no longer with us, so interest in these cars is low.

Huge project. Guess the wheels are not original, as the 1930 model had steel spoked wheels. Woodspoke wheels upto 1929

Are you doing anything more with engine yet? I’m in Australia and about to start building one of these engines as well, for my 1930 Oakland. For instance the Oakland Car register here in Aus actually have brand new cam shafts made for these engines. You can contact them through the website. I’m sure with the US dollar against the Australian dollar it will be pretty cheap. I thinking around $800 USD approx. And also a guy in the register is very knowledgeable about these engines and could answer any questions you have.

A very nice presentation, sir. You should realize many purist, snob collectors cringe when swapping of older parts with newer imported parts occurs. My thoughts on that is "keep them burning". If you use mismatched parts from different models so be it. Later on, over the years, I've obtained "donor" pieces and got a proper globe or fuel cap or a better looking vent to bring a lantern looking more "correct". In the mean time I didn't have 10 lanterns hanging around and not working. You seem to be a hard worker who enjoys what he's doing. Enjoy a great life.

Hi my friend I have a Toyota 1980 same Good job

I'd imagine that you could deck the block and heads, then get or make an oversized headgasket.

Did the same thing not so long ago with a ryzen 5 4600g and rx 7900gre

dextrine is corn startch bake lightly to a more golden color . its effect is very binding and helps keep a granule consistency .it is activated by the use of water . it is a very sticky glue like substance, the amount added is so miniscule . say less that half a gram per 100 g of powder . also glass marbles for ball media works very well . never use steel balls!

My homemade pipe pistol will love this more that the Japanese prime minister

You need to hook up with the Oakland-Pontiac club. Do NOT scrap this rare car.

Oil filters were optional on many cars well into the 60s. Chevy V8 didn't come standard with an oil filter until 1967, for example, 6 cyl in 1962.

youtube is going to go berserk over this 🤣🤣🤣

That engine ...could make easily 4 times the power it did...with modern tech applied....and the ROD that damps out vibration through the body can be thrown in the trash... back in those days harmonic balancers did not exist nor the concept ...these day they can be custom made to any specification at all .

45 years old...wow!!!

Beautiful truck.👍🏼

The weird thing at 5.12 is the carb. It was made by Detroit Lubricator. A version of that carb was used on 1932-33 Fords. Gasket sets are available. Rebuild instructions are in the 32 maintenance book which is also available There are people that rebuild them.. They are tough to rebuild.

Any updates?