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To start I used CRV with the GSR gear set using the FWD2AWD kit. I broke 3rd and upgraded to a gearX dog box. You need some sort of gear set if you want to make any decent power and not have to open the trans up and spend more money soon.

Thanks for the reply bro, but how did you manage to make work as fwd as I have crv trans also but I have no idea on how to make work.

@@stemsalazar8439 message me on IG @ej8build

38:40 , when I put this together I emailed SF and ask conformation that it goes here. They confirmed I had it in the right location.

Lmao yes I did a shit ass job. Adhd did me dirty haha. If you’re still at it lmk and I’ll help if I can.

Ej8build, but I’m going to direct you to a friend who has done it more recently

Still using ek

@@princeraja thanks!

I went to a trans shop and found an old timer there who let me look through a collection of old shims. I had my caliper and a note pad there lol. The OD and ID don’t have to be perfect, obviously OD can’t be too large, and ID not too small. You can even stack them if needed, why not. My end play was in spec, .004”? I think.

@@princeraja what were your shims size that you used?

The FWD ring gear won’t bolt onto the AWD diff, so you have to either use the CRV final drive or buy an aftermarket AWD specific final drive set.

Search up eBay for ek power folding mirrors. You can find them labeled as ek9 often but they also came on none type r cars. I recommend trying to find the relay which has a single row of pins instead of 2.

Glad u enjoyed!

Lmao is that what got you here?

She was my taxi driver haha, I was trying to tell her I hiked to the peak near where she picked me up lol. Also after she picked me up, she asked I minded if she picked a friend to tag along for the ride? Haha

Thank you my friend

It is indeed OEM. Best of luck!

If you’re talking B series, I believe that the rsx shifter does not work, and you will need the CRV parts.

@@princeraja my bad. Didn't realize this was a bseries build.

What solid mounts did u use crv ?

No. I didn’t document well for the turbo part of the build. I have a benson sleeved b18c1 in there. Matching head.

If you get another pair of hands to hold things in place, you could try those a level on the face of the flange of the diff to see how close you are to 0 degrees. Driveline and rear diff/viscous coupler mount and all that has been working perfectly!

@@princeraja awesome. Should be able to hold it up , luckily we’re doing it on a two post lift. Thanks for the advice man !

Shadow_built915 Albert Gonzalez I’m jealous! Haha. Post some videos!

@@princeraja I should’ve started recording since the beginning but I’ll make sure to start now haha.

I haven’t pushed it yet since install. Also I’ve never dynod, butt dyno says 550. I broke a tcase once already.

@@princeraja Ok. I figured the t case would give b4 the bellhousing. I have the same setup for transmission/tc as too so this is good info. Thanks

Minus the ppg gears. Ill most likely get those as well

It was right around 7k not including the core, but also including the PPG transfer case parts.

I used the original power and ground that was supplied to the original style switch.

What do you mean? They are inside each mirror and I had no need to disassemble them.

Heck yeah it’s possible. It may take some extra wiring work possibly. What you’re doing would be fairly cheap because you wouldn’t need all the modifications needed to really get all the performance out of the AWD system.

The two major things are going to be making sure the auto trans wiring is the same for the original set up and the CRV set up. If not then you’ll need to modify the wiring. The second thing is mounting the rear differential. You’ll have to buy or make a trailing arm kit. Message me if you’d like and we can talk more.

All the music is made my Jake R! You should message him and ask where you can find it (to help keep him motivated toooo!)

Ha, thanks! It was a fun struggle. Where/when did you ask me to join ya’ll?