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Thaks for watching the video. I didn't mean to imply that using a valve spring compressor was some sort of a revelation. I just wanted to demonstrate that using a valve spring compressor made the job easier, with less risk of damage than using a screwdriver. BTW I live in a very cosmopolitan area (a suburb 60 miles east of NYC) and no autoparts or tool stores in my area carry a valve spring compressor for a ford modular 2V V8. The only option is to buy one online...... or make one, like I did.

When you pull the pedal all the way up, it releases the pawl from the quadrant. This does not necessarily tighten the cable, in fact under normal use, the wear of the friction plate causes the fingers of the pressure plate to extend further out, increasing the tension of the cable. The quadrant compensates for this when the pedal is pulled all the way up relasing the pawl, at that point the only tension on the cable is the tension imparted from the torsion spring on the quadrant. When you let go of the pedal the pawl re-engages the quadrant and resets the clutch cable tension to factory spec (the tension imparted by the torsion spring. If you want to remove all tension from the clutch cable, you would pull the pedal all the way up, then (working under the dashboard) rotate the quadrant, so it increases the tension of the torsion spring, and introduces slack in the cable. At this point you can easily remove the clutch cable from the quadrant.

I just did it when I moved the reservoir I had to have somebody hold it up because the hose underneath was too short for me to even twist it as far as you did then I realized the cooling fan didn’t even have the two bolts holding it in, and when I got the fan out, it had a crack in the shroud like yours did But I replaced everything like you showed and now it’s fine. Thanks for the video.

Thanks for watching the video, I'm glad you found it helpful

If the clutch is always engaged, it could be due to a defective clutch, or a clutch that is improperly adjusted (no air gap). Another possibility is an electrical issue (if the clutch relay is stuck in the on position, the clutch would remain engaged). A quick way to determine if the problem is electrical or mechanical is to disconnect the plug at the compressor, then start the car. If the AC clutch is engaged, then the problem is mechanical, if the clutch is not engaged then the problem is electrical.

Yes, because 4.6 and 5.4 2V heads are identical.

Thanks for watching the video, I'm glad you found it helpful. I totally hear what you're saying. Sometimes (regardless of how experienced you may be) watching a video of the job before you do it, gives you some insight into how to do it faster, or better.

I'm Fairley sure they exist, they're just not commonly available.

trenching spades on their own are really heavy with terrible ergonomics...get some clay on the end as well and theyre awful...definitely feeling the pain on that one

Thanks for watching the video, I'm glad if you found it helpful. My faucet handle required a 3/32" Allen key, however there is no guarantee that yours would (even if it was the same model) American Standard could always change the supplier of their components at any time. It's always a good idea to have a complete set of standard and metric Allen keys handy whenever working on anything that uses socket head screws.

Thanks for watching the video, glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for watching the video, glad it was helpful to you.

All you would need to do is place a piece of steel over the gap. A # 10 fender washer would probably serve the purpose.

Just go to the 3rd chapter of the video (02:10). Pause the video when the part # for the handle appears. Write down the part number, then type the part # in a search engine. If that does not yield satisfactory results, then run a search for "generic replacement handle for American Standard Cadet series kitchen faucet."

@@robertbabich1154 Thanks.

You bring up a point worth noting. I forgot to mention that, mainly because the OEM ball joint does not have an external circlip, nor does the Moog replacement ball joint have one. However, some aftermarket ball joints do come with external circlips. If I do install an aftermarket ball joint that has an external circlip, when the OEM did not, I do not install the circlip, I simply toss it in the garbage, because it is pointless. If you do install the circlip, after properly seating the ball joint, you will notice there is a gap between the circlip and the control arm (usually about 1/16"). If the body of the ball joint traveled that far in the bore when in service, that would mean the bore of your control arm is worn out and oversized. In fact, if the body of the ball joint shifts any amount at all in the bore of the control arm when in service, it would mean the bore of the control arm is worn out and it would lead to rapid failure of the ball joint, or at the very least a clunky front end. Hence the circlip is pointless. However, you are correct in pointing out the circlip, and before attempting to press out the old ball joint you should check if it has an external circlip and remove it if it does.

Whenever the car is rolling, whether it is in neutral or not, the U joint will rotate, so if you have a bad u-joint, it's quite possible that's what is causing the squeak. However, it is also quite likely that you could have a bad u-joint that isn't squealing, and the squeak you are hearing could be coming from a myriad of different places, such as bearings, brake pads, brake dust shields etc. There are 2 easy and quick ways to determine with 100% certainty if your u-joint is bad: 2-man method: Have an assistant view the drive shaft assembly while you shift from forward to reverse with the engine running and the brake applied. (if you have a standard, obviously don't release the clutch entirely or you will stall the engine) 1-man method: Put the tranny in neutral and apply the E-brake, crawl under the car (unless you're quite thin or have a long reach you will need to jack it up) then grasp the drive shaft and try and rotate it in both directions. If you are able to rotate the drive shaft more than a degree or two, one or both of your u-joints are bad. At this point it will be quite easy to determine which u-joint is bad by observing which yoke the play is coming from, and there you will find the bad u-joint. Note: by having the E-brake applied you prevent the differential from rotating, which makes the diagnostic procedure faster, since if there is any play in the drive shaft at all, it can only be due to the u-joints.

I would say yes, mine was making the squeaking sign I thought it had something to do with the tire / front end. My mechanic said it was the U joints. He replaced them and the sound is gone.. also no more clunking. I bought the parts from Ford because he said they were discontinued and he would have to replace the whole driveshaft. I elected to get the U joints as it was much less expensive.

After market U-joints for a Mustang discontinued? I know for a fact that is not true. For example, Spicer/Dana and Moog which are companies that make high quality after-market U joints that meet, and often exceed OEM specs and quality make the u-joints for any year Mustang from '64-1/2 to 2022, although I do not believe either company makes them yet for 2023 or newer. However, you can get the 2023 version from GMB. Basically, all years are widely available, and no years are discontinued by either Dana/Spicer or Moog. The only year(s) that might be hard to come by is the 2023 or later version since it is only available from GMB (probably the OEM).

BTW I didn't want to say anything until I verified it, since you have a Cobra. But your '98 Cobra takes the very same U-joint as my '02 GT. And that particular u-joint is used in a wide variety of applications spanning many years and makes of cars. Because of its wide application all major U-joint manufactures make it. So, it is quite nearly definite that you can find it in stock at almost any Autoparts store. As a matter of Fact, Moog makes 3 versions for the '98 Cobra: Moog-354 (premium), Moog-270 (super strength greaseable) and Moog-254 (super strength non-greaseable) What's more not only are all 3 of these Moog u joints an exact fit for your '98 Cobra and my '02 GT, but they are also even an exact fit for my '04 Chevy Siverado 2500HD. So, I just have to say, if your mechanic told you that you can only get replacement U-joints from a Ford dealer, that he had to be joking. Or maybe he just wanted to sell you a driveshaft.

@robertbabich1154 I appreciate all the information you gave me. I'm gonna have it looked at this week. If it's in fact a bad u joint I'll probably take advantage of the situation and upgrade my factory steel driveshaft to an aluminum one that already comes fully assembled with new u joints. Two birds one stone.

Hmm, if you are referring to the specific Valve spring compressor I used in this video, you will not be able to find it anywhere online or anywhere else for that matter, except for in this video since I fabricated it myself (as I stated in this video). However, if you are looking for a Valve spring compressor that is specifically designed to work with a Ford 4.6 L 2V modular engine here is a link from Amazon: www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24434-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B015NIQOXK?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

Note you can find valve spring compressors for less than 1/2 the price of this one on Amazon and elsewhere and they should be adequate to do the job, Just be sure that it is designed for a Ford 4-6L 2V modular Engine and is made of steel (not just metal) the reason I selected the OEM Tools brand is because it meets all that criteria and OEM tool is a somewhat reputable manufacturer of specialty automotive tools.

@@robertbabich1154 thanks ..I did find one very similar ..appreciate ..cheers.!

@@thebearsden1701 hey do u mind sharing the link for the tool u found can’t find a good one atm

It looks like the opening width on the foot is too wide compared to yours. Don’t want the keys, etc and possibly valve to drop. Any thoughts? Thank you for a great video.

I made another video of this very same job, except in the newer version I perform each step of the job as I am talking. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/5Ixpu3UcTEc/видео.html

Even if you meant to offend, I wouldn't be offended. I realize I can't please everyone. What you deem to be B.S others may view as helpful details. Fortunately for you, I am sure I am not the only guy who has a made a video on this topic, so there is a good chance you can find another video that is more to your liking.

Dorman is not the best driveshaft you can buy, however it is at least equivelent to OEM. As such it should be balanced out of the box. If you are sure the driveshaft is out of balance return it.

It's unlikely to be the pinion angle cause even if you lowered your car are the springs are sagging your mufflers would scrape the pavement before the pinion angle became an issue. And if you installed a lift kit in a stang, I don't even wanna talk to you. Actually a really easy way to verify if the drive shaft is out of balance is to unbolt it from the pinion flange and index it 90 degrees then test drive it. If you have the same vibrations in all 4 possible clock positikns the problem is not in the drive shaft. If the vibrations increase or decrease when indexed the drive shaft is out of balance or one or both of your u joints are bad.

​@@robertbabich1154thank you.

@@robertbabich1154 i wrote to Dorman with the same question. They answered right away, to turn driveshaft 180 degrees and bolt it there. It worked !!! Thankyou for your videos

Cool, make sure you watch my U-joint replacement video: ruclips.net/video/F4BAfyTQMhE/видео.html And even if you don't get a chance to, be sure to add additional high temp wheel bearing grease to the needle bearings before assembly, cause they have a nasty habit of falling out as nothing holds them in place besides the grease when they are clear of the journal of the spider.