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This is specifically a double shoe box rocket stove. Which is ideal for making into a cooktop as we did here. The ceramic glass is for the workshop so participants can actually see the fire doing its thing inside. You are correct that we didn't want to over heat the bench since this was continually fired when it was finished for our pizza party that happens at the end of our meeting.

The discernment between rocket stove cores and masonry fireboxes involves a lot of grey area due to all the hybridization over recent decades. This is a double shoe batch box rocket, but what makes it unique and kind of 'cutting edge' is that it has a stub riser above the firebox with a vertically oriented exit port (facing the viewing glass). This helps to achieve much of the pull you get from a normal rocket heat-riser, but also, due to buoyancy of the hot gasses, causes an optimal restriction and turbulence of gasses thru the port. In my experience, this design is less twitchy (more stable during less-than-ideal firing conditions) than a triple shoe box. In fact, I have gone back to most of my triple shoe box builds and converted them to this stub riser. All clients are saying it burns way better.

This was one of our workshops at our annual meeting at Wildacres.

Straight clay for the stove, clay and sand for the bench. We use clay because it works and is easy to take apart and clean the bricks. For a permanent build you would use refractory mortar for the stove and you could still use clay and sand for the bench.

They needed to break it down and clean it up so there is no binder. For a permanent stove in the home I would add 1 part lime to the standard 1 part fireclay to 3 parts sand. A splash of Type S cement, like, 1/4 part, doesn't hurt either.... but this is for the bench and all the other masonry, not for the firebox.

Yes, this has been done many times.

Masonry heaters burn hot enough to cause the wood to gasify, and then burns those gasses. When the gasses are not burned and then travel downstream to the cooler chimney, they condense on the chimney walls as tar and creosote.

As long as the wood is properly dried it won't leave creosote buildup, no matter the type of burner. If the wood has too much moisture then it smolders too much and the creosote in the wood won't burn, just evaporates. It then solidifies again leaving buildup.

A properly constructed masonry heater has clean out ports to access all of the important areas where the heater will need the accumulated soot/fly ash removed from.

@@MasonryHeaterAssoc ah mostly it was areas like around the ones designed like a heatilator (a metal insert to a fireplace) so a sort of double wall behind the burn chamber or is it so hot there that any soot gets incinerated? But then what about ash that could accumulate there?

Where ever there is a place that ash can accumulate there should be a clean out access port.

You could have the design with the firebox to the outside, but you would be losing a lot of heat to the outside. I wouldn't advise a design like this. The firebox is sized relative to the mass, a very large heater would have a large firebox. In a space with a small heating requirement would possibly need only one fire a day.

Masonry heaters burn hot enough to cause the wood to gasify, and then burns those gasses. When the gasses are not burned and then travel downstream to the cooler chimney, they condense on the chimney walls as tar and creosote.

In theroy anyway..​@@MasonryHeaterAssoc

It needs to be supported on a masonry or concrete base with a solid footing. It could also be on a type of engineered steel structure, just not a combustible floor structure.

There heaters burn very hot / use very dry wood no creosote created !

Look for refectory bricks (used for kilns)

Yeah they are called firebricks, sold at any local brickyard typically

That’s what rocket mass heaters do.

Your combustion chamber wants to expand in all directions. And the heavy "cold" air pushes the hot air up.

@@hadnick1 No, can't be done because of pressior differences. Also a "rocket" is a small J-tube design burn chamber. And a "mass heater" is what you see here. Just a big heat exchanger with mass. Has nothing to do with each other.

Just a normal chimney connection. Thus you have a European chimney integrated inside your house that supports the roof. Or just a well insulated pipe that goes above your house into clean vortex free air. (no wind gusses from the building that effects the draft/flame)

Sorry if this is late, but you could try finding or making a stove that fits into in the fireplace and then line the firebox with brick or ceramic fiber board to insulate the fire and stop the room's air from cooling the metal firebox. By insulating the fire from the room, the firebox no longer radiates heat directly but the insulation allows the fire to burn hotter than it otherwise would. Systems like this often don't have dampers since dampening makes a cooler fire and the objective is to burn hot and efficiently. If the stove has some sort of grate for the fuel to burn atop, that will also make the fire hotter as the underside of the fire is receiving more air. A coal grate will also allow you to burn coal and charcoal as well as wood if you so desire. A hot fire will combust much of the smoke that a cooler-burning fire would normally produce and so the system can have a cooler exhaust without as much creosote build up. You also get extra energy from combusting the smoke that would normally go up the flue. You'd want a cooler exhaust because that means that more of the heat was extracted from the fire and put into the home. Some stoves like a franklin stove have a built-in baffle after the firebox that extracts more heat from the exhaust but you might need to add more length of piping or channel to extract the amount of heat you need. Adding some sort of mass (brick, sand, cob, maybe even water but it can leak) to the piping/channel will store heat so that the fire can give heat throughout the night. The amount of mass you add depends on if you want a small, faster-heating mass that also cools fast or a large, slower-heating mass that also cools slowly. By the time the exhaust has run the length of the course it will have transferred most of its heat to the mass but it should still be warm enough if you want it to rise up the chimney and create draw. One last thing that you can try if possible is to have a stove that has an air intake from outside, as this will stop the fire from pulling the ambient air from inside the house that you are trying to warm and sending it up the chimney. If there is no intake then cold air will attempt to rush in through cracks in the house in order to replace the air going up the chimney.

Rocket mass heaters are by far the best and most efficient option! They also take all the good ideas from this design and expand to use more of the hot flue gasses and burn out the creosote which means less cleaning. They’re also far easier to clean when needed where as if these need to be cleaned it’s almost impossible to clean the inner heat chamber. You can also grow the fuel for a rocket mass heater in a smaller are, using coppicing techniques, because rocket mass heaters operate on stick fuel, which also dries faster than logs.

would one of the chimney sweep logs that you buy and burn do any good?

@@bikiniluvnguy1 it might work if you used a couple of them, but there are much better products out there to use. CRE-AWAY or Anti-Creo-Soot spray. The problem is you have to clean all the chambers first as good as you can, use the products for a 2-3 weeks and then clean it again. It’s always good to continue using the products even after it been cleaned to help with future creosote build up. These types of heaters work amazing, but they create a lot of soot in the chambers, so they need to be cleaned often.

it is the opposite. they burn really really hot because they have constant strong draft inside and no metal surface to release the heat to outside of burning chamber, thats why they are the most efficient wood heaters and thus create least amount of soot. actually also for this reason in finland government gives tax discount to homes using masonry heater. theyre the cleanest heating solution. if yours is creating more soot than normal stoves there should be something wrong. @@akaredcrossbow

@@HaraldSjellose the problem is nobody here is educated on how to properly use them. Even after they have been educated about it they still don’t do the correct thing. One of the major issues with these heaters is they get too hot for the owners and that’s when they run them on very low temperatures creating massive amounts of creosote. The other problem is wood that is not properly dried before burning. So the combination of low heat and wet wood make a nightmare mess to clean in all the ports. Another problem is people almost closing the damper all the way down at the chimney. When doing this it will cause a slower draft and that builds up large amounts of soot in the heater. Everywhere else in the world can operate them perfectly, but here they should be against the law.

i see. but i dont understand why it should be against the law.@@akaredcrossbow

I watched someone else talking about these & they said there is a soot cleanout and you should periodically have a chimney sweep come clean it all out

Just building one in my workshop, in Poland: you are placing tiny doors in low spots to clean the residue periodically. Quite easily done.

No from Sweden! Norway!

You want to have trap doors built into it I think, I hear that they do need to be clean often

They're much more complicated to build and very heavy, adds up to being initially more expensive to build. If you're using it for a primary source of heat, it's hard to beat the efficiency, safety, and cleanliness of the burn and just living with 1 or 2 arm loads of wood a day.

Thank your government!

You elected them !

You never started. Only a couple of setlers build them. You need to be settled first 🙂 Germany calls them _Grondofens_ You also have Finnish and Russian designs.

it's a pretty common thing in "the old world". we all have our regional flavors but it's essentially the same concept, use a long pathway through stone or masonry to store heat from a fire. if the system is perfectly tuned the exhaust from the chimney should be room temp theoretically. there's stories of Roman concerors in England doing something similar, but they mostly just heated the floors by running hot gasses in channels in the floor masonry, they'd have slaves fire up the system from outside the house

How is it better? Before or after vodka?

Is it Siberian who stole it from someone else maybe Chinese who stole it from the montain tribes in East, who saw it somewhere else

A good idea is recognized and copied

@JS Oh, so chinese . The highest level of heat retention of masonry heaters are made of soapstone .,Finland is possibly the leader in this regard .

RIP to your father. He must have been an industrious man.