Видео

I ordered it on Amazon the bearing was a tapered roller number 33014 and the seal was 80mm x 100mm x 10mm size double lip with spring

@@rodneytangeman4803 I put grease at first but I don’t believe it ever packed down to the lower bearing because is the one the seized the upper one closest to the grease zero was and still is fine. That’s why I went to the oil instead of grease, however I believe if the grease did fully pack the lower bearing it would have been fine

When it was broken I was able to make the compressor run but jumping a wire from the compressor,directly to the battery , I’m not sure if the lights inside came on or not, I don’t remember. all that did was bypass all the interior switches and deliver the power from the battery to the compressor directly, when doing that none of the switches inside the truck will make a difference because it’s getting its input straight from battery to compressor.I ran it like this for awhile by routing a wire from the compressor to inside my truck with an simple on/off toggle switch then from switch to battery , this enabled me to manually turn the compressor on and off ,totally bypassing the trucks relays and switches , it worked but was inconvenient because doing that you will have to periodically turn the switch on and off to manually kick the compressor on and off , it’s not supposed to run 100%of the time, the relays job is to open and close the circuit as needed but since all that was bypassed I had to do it manually , if left on it would freeze up and possibly drain the battery or burn the jumper wire, but it did work in a pinch until I found that broken wire as noted in the video

@@JB-cw5uu thank you

sorry I don’t I had my mechanic friend pick them up at a local speed shop in Tyler Texas , I had a hard time finding them too because i needed the added clearance and the tall center bolt covers were tricky to find

thanks. I’ve had it since. 98 I was 19 when I got it. finally got where I was able to make it like I wanted 25 yrs later. been a great truck stock engine was still running when we rebuilt it at 330k

if your referring to fuel yes. I had to put a high flow pump in it. without it it would hit a wall at 4500 rpm and quit making power. after we changed the pump over it solved that and pulls strong

quick response I’ll make a vid later . 383 stroker kit new injectors stock size with high flow fuel pump comp cam extreme energy high torque remember for sure but I wanna say it’s a round 280 intake and 290 exhaust. 1.6 roller rockers with guide plates , bored .040 , 10:1compression I wanted to run pump gas long tube headers, reprogrammed computer, I built it to pull really strong and it does. when I had at dyno test it pulled really hard and measured 320 hp at the wheels but kept stalling at 4500 rpm, that’s when we discovered it was starving for fuel I didnt wanna spend another $500 to have it tested again but we estimate it’s pulling around 400 hp at the wheels if I didn’t have the lift and big tires on it I’d like to see what it tops out at but I’m afraid I’m gonna kill myself in it if I try that now , when it gets up in the 90s and 100 mph range I have a gear left and more pedal and it’s hard to keep on the road when I had 32” tires on it it would not hookup from a hard start very good just smoke the tires , went to 37” tires and it grabs hard now running 4:56 gears mpg is terrible 8-10

Yes if Freon is really low it would do that , I’m sure there’s probably other reason it would as well but mine did that one time when from had leaked out and it was critically low

@@JB-cw5uu right, I’ve done Freon, leaks, condenser, compressor and clutch, control panel, relay and still won’t stop engaging on and off. Even if control panel off or heater on.

@@josuesalazar3603hmm In not sure I’m not a mechanic but may possibly be the low pressure switch ?? Just guessing I’m really not sure

@@JB-cw5uu yeah i thought too unfortunately didn’t do it. Thanks for your help

@@josuesalazar3603did you ever figure it out. I have the same issue

I’m wondering the same thing

You have to take the plate that holds the blades off bottom , I rested mine on blocks then unbolted them all and used the skid steer to lift the body up and backed up from the blade and plate and sat it back on the ground , then unbolt everything from top down , pump , then bearing housing , then work your way down, when you break the bearing housing into halves you will have to pull the top bearing out and then they will seperate , the bottom bearing is pressed on also and the hardest part is getting the large circlip off the bottom of it. It’s hard to get into

I’ll be first to admit they are not even close in quality or craftsmanship to American made products but for 1/10th on the price at auction I don’t have a complaint. After I fixed my bearing that I screwed up by my own ignorance I have had no trouble with it . I’ve cut some serious brush and small trees and grass with it and had no problems since . I know if you don’t wanna cut it you better not hit it , it will take a 8 inch tree down quick and the small stuff 4” and under it takes out instantly

Ya pull the line of the front of the unit. I assume it’s so it doesn’t have a dry start . So far I love my Wacker unit. First CTL I’ve had so I can’t compare it to anything else but I like it

After posting, I went out and looked at the cutter. I found a tag on the center port that instructs you to put hydraulic oil in the motor in the center port. For the bearings, I didn't take a video, but I took the breather port cap off (side opposite the grease zerk) and filled the oil from there with a 60cc syringe with about an eight inch piece of clear tubing on it. . Mine took 180CC to get oil running out of the port. I've operated about every brand out there. I bought the ST31 to use as my personal machine with the thought that if I like it, I might try to become a dealer. We'll see how it all goes!

@@nickg7323 I line mine. It’s perfect for what i do that heavy brush cutter works great and I also have a disc mulcher, bucket, grapple, pallet forks , and auger for it. Makes work much more enjoyable especially in the a/c cab when it’s hot out

I ordered it on Amazon EAI Oil Seal 80mm X 100mm X 10mm... www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVDVFN2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share for the seal and 1x 33014 Tapered Roller Bearing... www.amazon.com/dp/B01N40WRXC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share for the bearing

Their customer service is horrible. Don’t buy from their site. Get it in auction and save some money obviously their sites a joke

Thanks .. wanna buy it ? Make me an offer. It sits under my carport 90% of the time

I’ll have to look it up. It’s the part number off the bearing . I ordered it on Amazon . Top cats customer service is worthless. They claimed to be sending me a part I needed 3 months again and I still haven’t got it. Glad I didn’t wait on it. Seriously this cutter is decent if you grease it good but the warranty and customer service is totally worthless so I would not but one from the webpage I would buy in auction again and refuse to spend more than 1500 -2000 for it There is no sense is buying from their web page because they won’t honor warranty’s parts or anything else … they are just a money taker on that end in my opinion

The paperclip is used to touch the two terminals together. Connecting the circuit. Basically taking the place of the switch to see if it’s a switch problem

Compressors is fine. It’s the wiring

Mine would run but the compressor would not kick in. Till I fixed that wire

The the bearings sandwich from bottom and top you will have to drop the mower plate then pull the unit from the top then pull the top bearing then the shaft will come out from bottom side. And then you will have to pull the bottom bearing and seals . Mine was fine on top but bottom was fried s race and all was toasted. I replaced the race bearing and seals then pre lubed it all it all and put top side back together. If I was doing it again I would just hand pack the bottom bearing with grease the. Install it and fill the cavity with more grease and then hand Pack the upper bearing and install it

Was there a special way to get the bearing assembly apart or did you just use a puller on it

@@joshmelchior6897 I was able to get the top bearing off by flipping it upside down and dropping it on a board repeatedly the weight of that housing little by little seperated them the lower bearing I had to cut off with a dremel tool and a cutting wheel because it was heat stuck to the shaft But I’m sure a puller would have worked a lot easier for it

Yes the one in the center of front of pump

I would try the grease if it was me before I tore it down . If you can get enough in to pack that bottom bearing I think it would be fine

Before I do it the same way and fail, how did you do it? Pump until it came out the back screen? If that’s how you did it I’ll put plug in back to build more pressure to force grease hopefully down. Then pull plug, and put screen vent back in before I run it.

I pulled the vent out and pumped it till it came out that hole but I don’t think it really got enough pressure in it to force it down to the bottom

Any updates on the seal issue and using grease rather than 80/90? I was drilling larger holes in my blade carrier yesterday and noticed the seal was leaking on my cutter. I'm thinking I might go with JD Corn head grease or using the grease BD uses. I like the idea of the corn head grease since it will liquify as it gets warmer and solidify once it cools.

No I sure don’t. I haven’t had time to do one yet . I have used it for about 4 hours so far. Works good to me but I don’t have any previous use with these to compare to . Only thing I have noticed is that there is a bit of vibration in it. May be normal but I have a feeling it’s a bit out of balance as long as I let it keep good speed up and not try bog it down it seems fine to me. I need some more seat time in it to really get better at it but I like it

Lol, bacon grease is also lard. 👌

I removed the grease fitting and used a tube pump to fill it like for an outboard boat motor gear case , took the brass plug out of the back made sure it was sitting level and filled it till it came out that hole where the brass plug goes then put the grease fitting back in

Yes sir. I believe it. This one here ran over 340k before I rebuilt it and it was still running daily. That was after working it for 20 years hard in my roofing business. Pulling trailers and all over town doing estimates daily. Very good trucks

Ya I’ve had it since I was 19 I bought it with about 17k on it. Drive it for almost 340k before I finally rebuilt the motor . When i did we built it up to about 400 hp at the wheels lots of goodies in it. Put a 6” lift on it and 20” wheels and 37” tires 4:56 gears new paint,pretty well done everything except the interior . It could use a facelift inside. Needs a new dash board, front seats and carpet. I’ll sell it if the price is right. It sits under my shed most of the time

It’s a little on the loud side lol has short packs on it with headers and true duals

Good deal. Sounds like it has plenty HP. Headers make it sound pure and not generic. I wish mine had them. I have a 98 also and everything is original. I’ve had it since 2001 from my Dad and it only had 22,000. Now has 180.000. Lots of people want to buy it but I’ll never sell it because of sentimental reasons .

Your welcome. I know I searched all over with no luck. So I was hoping others would benefit from the post. Glad it helped

Ok Ty for the tip

I have since sold my food trailer . I have used the lard before on other deep fryers at home that have an open flame and it works well also . Another option I have used is pre melting it in smaller batches and filling it with the liquid and that works also .

@@JB-cw5uu may I know why you sold it? I’ve read that some people preheat it in sous vide and then use liquid. Thanks for the reply!

@@mhaerkself9045 we sold it because we just had too many things going on, with prep work before events and clean up after along with my full time job I was literally only sleeping 2-4 hours a 24 hr period for multiple days a week. It just honestly was too much on me. I had no idea how much time and preps work went into each event we would de before doing it. Very strenuous if your doing it and working full time in another job. I enjoyed it and liked cooking and meeting people just had to choose something to stop.

Awesome glad to be a help

I found lard from Sysco foods to be real good. I can’t remember the brand they sold but it was a large block of it. It worked good for our fryers I have also used the morel brand and it worked equally as well but the large block was quite a bit cheaper

Ya this one has been like that for years. I’ve gotten so used to it I bump it and don’t even think about it

@@JB-cw5uumine did the same thing all I did was dump oil on the latch and the coil things for the hood get her all lubricated and now it opens like a dream

Yw.

Ha ha. That was when it was brand new

I sorry I’m not a pro just work on my own stuff now and then.. wish I knew a bit more to help you out

@@JB-cw5uu well I have same issue exactly the same Siri need to change that wire the green one from low pressure switch when I try to jump the connector does turn the clutch on exactly like your vide so u followed the green wire from switch all the way to where u changed that wire out I know that’s my problem just like yours

The back of that intake over years of heat apparently will eventually damage the wires behind it. At least that’s my assumption.