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They used to be available at Bestbuy but I think they stopped selling them. They are 1.5 cubic ft and tuned to 38 hz.

I disconnected the 2 AGMs but that 96 Ah lithium bank is feeding the Big Boss in this one. That blue volt meter on top is connected at the amp input and is about slightly off, about 0.15v lower than my Fluke shows. It only dropped to about 13.6 or 7 while reaching clipping.

Glowe Industries did some tests on this.

I reconnected all the wires and fuses, swapped out the no name brand fuse holder for another Skar branded one and even tested the resistance on all the wiring and saw the same measurements as the leads have by themselves. I'm still clueless.

That's a really good idea. Last night I was thinking about retrying some tests with the head unit sub output level turned up to see if that helps. I have a home made distortion meter connected to the amp output and the bass knob and amp also have clipping indicators but I haven't really thought about the head unit's output until now. I think the Big Boss manual says it wants 0.2-4v so I'm going to see what my stereo is actually doing. Thanks again! Once the snow clears up I'll get a chance to test all this in my car with that lithium bank also. I'm going to figure this out somehow, lol.

Yeah, I have seen others test this amp slightly above 2 ohms and get that 2500-2800 range so I think you are dead on. Well, even at 13.6 and 2.2 ohms I feel like I should do over 2k.

@JasonWW2000 They said that the wiring must have been switched to cause the damage to the meter, and that was the last I heard of it. I do think that the wiring in my car must have gotten switched because I tested the second meter inside first, and it seemed fine. Then I took it out to the car and it was wrong too. I decided to put a piece of electric tape on the end of the clamp wires from on, lol. Pretty expensive mistake. I'm embarrassed but glad it wasn't something more expensive or dangerous, I guess.

Yeah, it's damaged for sure.

@ah4800 Barevids spotted some upgraded components, in the black Big Boss at least, but they are all on the same pcb and basically the same thing. The Smart, Smart Bass and Big Boss amps. Small differences, not sure what effects any of them have though. But yeah, basically the lights and only 220hz or less.

@leegriffin9717 Yeah, but crazy how it turned out anyways. I'm in the process of upgrading the car so there will be more fair tests, and I will swap everything and test with both setups so I have a ton of info afterwards too. I just did the big 3 on that car today. Next is extra agms in the trunk.

@johnr2391 I mean, it seems about the same to me though really.

why not, that power supply is just acting as the alternator and the amp wired to the battery just like in his car, although the car alternator is probably putting out less amperage than that power supply so it should have more voltage drop.

I might grab 2 more AGMs and give it a shot.

I labeled my green plugs with a V and a C.

@@Alexander.Punguino_939 Thanks! That's a Taramps Smart Charger 200/280 amp. Here's a link to the Amazon page amzn.to/3W3m0Ns. I'll put it in the description too. They have smaller ones also.

These 400v ones should be enough for crazy power like 10-20k watts I believe but you should check somewhere for your specific amp's output voltage to be safe though.

@@SnubBarracuda im not really a musician but i just wanted to ask

I had to just buy a new meter. On the bright side, the old clamps and wiring work with the new one just fine, so at least I have those extra.

Oh, I was told it didn't matter if it was the positive or negative, but that it had to have all runs of that polarity going though the clamp.

Clamp can be on either speaker wire. It's AC, so positive and negative are constantly swapping anyway.

I was told that I must have connected with the clamp and speaker wires switched and damaged the meter. I ordered another meter and it works fine, even with the old clamps so the meter must be ruined I guess.

Oh dang, that's weird too. Some people have said that if it gets connected with the voltage and amperage plugs switched it could damage it just enough to make to read wrong but I really tried hard and thought I did not make that mistake but still may have done that with mine I guess, lol.

I was able to make a text cfg file that mods the quality of the RT and that fixes the issue. That was a while back, hopefully it's been added to the vanilla game. That mod also works on Hogwarts Legacy I think.

It could be something along those lines but I'm actually running a car amp and the meter off a 12v power supply. The house stereo is just being used as the head unit. I haven't heard of that ever being a problem but I don't really know.

That's just about perfect. I ended up ordering a dual 2 ohm for my other car. I'll see what it can do.

There is a mod that raises the RT quality level and fixes this issue. I think you just have to make a gfx cfg text file and add a line or two but I was a while ago and I forget.

Yeah, I have an extra AGM and an OFC wire kit for a big 3 and 2nd battery install I'm going to do maybe this weekend.

I have the gray 10s in my hatchback RSX and they sound super good.

Running them on a Taramps Smart 3, it should push right around 3000 watts rms but this car can't put that out. It has a 130 amp alternator and a 70 amp hour AGM battery under the hood. I just stay on that bass knob and skirt just under clip, lol.

Ah, will have to give it a try. I may reinstall it again some time soon.

@@SnubBarracuda it’s simply because DLSS deconstructs RT at a lower internal resolution and it inevitably causes bugs. This issue with DLSS is usually either patched in driver updates OR the developers themselves implement the DLSS team’s very own Ray Reconstruction. Hope that helped Regards

@@peterkilian9100 There is a mod that raises RT quality level and fixes this, I think you just have to make a text cfg file and add a line or two.

@@SnubBarracuda Incorrect. Unless the mod is specifically maintained as a bug fix, it is not the solution to your issue. My suggestion is to check hardware compatibility with raytracing. If it doesn’t work after updating the drivers and updating windows then it could be that there is a systematic issue with the components you actually use in the computer. At this point my only advice is to contact the support team at your manufacturer since it is beyond the scope of this comments section. It would be very important to give them a detailed description of your problem, its driver version and the software in question. Keep in mind that this mod may be solving the issue temporarily for a multitude of reasons like an indirect compatibility conflict of some sort. Again, beyond the scope of this comments section but it should give you an idea of where to go from here… Stay well!

@peterkilian9100 Thanks, but my hardware is fine. According to a Google search, the issue is pretty well known and only comes up with some old titles with early implementations of RT. The workaround was very simple anyways, and Howard's Legacy is the only other title I've seen with similar issues. It also benefits from that simple cfg file alteration. I haven't been back to those 2 games in a while to see if devs or new drivers have fixed the problem but if they were there years later, it seems very possible they were not addressed.

Yeah, heat from the coil is making it get hotter. Could be from high power but clipping also makes a bunch of heat. As long as it stays at 90f or less it's probably okay but I would check on them.

@@SnubBarracuda okay thank you so much I was thinking of that one but didn’t think it was but guess it is then lol. But rn it still haven’t broken in yet is it that why or… something else the problem cause I’m using the amp from a soundbar subwoofer an it packs a lot but it’s just that when it gets hot at around vol 62 cause it gets loud around 25 to 30

@@AZKIDDD Yeah might just be a little too high on the volume. As soon as an amp starts to push a little harder than it can handle it gets distortion and all that distortion becomes pure heat. That's the main reason subs ever blow. Any distortion just becomes heat and it will build up until the voice coil glue melts then it stinks and then bam.

I have a dude wanting to trade me these type of brand 2 12s for my hypntic 15 in subwoofer is it a good trade or no

@DylanHollins-y3l I've never had any of the Hypnotics, but I read they are made by DB Drive who makes decent stuff. Hifonics has been around forever though and used to be pretty high end I was told. Hard to choose without getting a chance to compare.

I do like them. How many watts are you putting to them or what amp are you using? Mine sound great and are very loud until they do bottom out. I didn't check exactly how many watts before they bottom out but it's around 500.

You can run the rca cables just like a normal car setup, but for the power you can use either a car battery or a power supply. I use an old computer power supply for mine but it's only 110 amps. They work just fine but aren't super powerful, they are only 12v compared to a car alternator that is 13.5 to 14.5 usually. But I still get around 1000 watts RMS with my pc power supply. Taramps and other people have some really nice ones that are like 300 amps, plus they can change voltage so they will do 12-15 volts or you can hook up a car battery and they are smart so they can keep the battery charged. With those you don't really need the battery. 300 amps is plenty. Those are like $300 though. But for an easy cheap setup just get a PCs' PSU and take all the yellow wires (or the 12v wires if they aren't color coded) and connect them together, then all the black ones (or ground wires) and do that to them too and hook that straight to the amp and you are good to go. I get cheap power supplies from Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist for $20 all the time. Just try to get one with the most amps for the 12v as possible. They have a sticker on the side that tells how many amps for each voltage rail.

Older punch 8's? That's a dope ass truck box!

@@Blowncaraudio Yeah, I think they are super old. I can't even find info for them online, just one Ebay listing. I bought them off Facebook for the boxes, to put them in my old single cab F150 but they actually sound really good.

I think I have had these since 1994. My parents bought them for me for my birthday + Christmas, haha. Worth it!

@@SnubBarracuda Nice! I have a pair of cs-g303's that have been in the family since around that time!

@@Blowncaraudio Nice! Mine are CS-M551's.

I just have them connected with RCAs like normal. I have the amp connected to it's own power supply that I took out of an old PC I had.

@AZKIDD6A6YYY Thanks, man. I wish my phone mic was better, but I'll keep posting when I get any new subs. I might do another one with these type rs with a better amp too.

Figured from a low end rockvilk

yeah no way these are rated at 500rms. In my experience they are more like 300rms each

Yeah, for sure. Super grindy, not a lot of content and they keep charging more to get the little stuff they have in the game.

Haha! Yes, but they do rattle a lot so I guess I'm lucky.

@awkwardgamervrn4827 I was lucky and after restarting or loading another save it worked the way it should.

@@SnubBarracuda I’ll give this a try but 6 reloads later and still nothing, I was thinking about restarting the game fresh to see if that helps

Those are some ancient Pioneer CS-M551s.