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What solution do you see, that I don't?

I agree with you. Sure wish you would have posted a video of your fix!

probably a freewheel over a freehub but of course you can coast, its a mountian bike.

Measure battery voltage.if under 30 volts, controller won't power up.

Holy shit how did you find that deal?

hey in canada too. what date was that? was it a clearance sale at walmart? its 998 now, maybe i should wait a bit. how is the bike? range, top speed

@soneeeee4440 2 summers ago the bike has held up pretty well no major repairs and the top speed I can hit without trying is 42 kmh but if I pedal hard I've seen 50+kmh

I would think so too, but no dropped chains on these jumps. Maybe the chain guard helps it? I did have 2 dropped chains just riding on regular of road trails.

@@dwangyahoo it has a single front sprocket and a chain guide. so its going to be extremely hard to drop the chain

Can you apply 3 small dabs of silicone caulk (equally spaced approximately)to connect disc to shaft when disc is in desired location. Possibly use a tooth pic to apply dabs?

Yes, the problem turned out to be the front/left brake lever which has a sensor that cuts off the motor when you pull the sensor. Here's a video on the brake lever diagnosis: ruclips.net/video/M_WUbXG1rKk/видео.html

its an air shock. so if its too stiff, its because he put too much pressure in it. user error

@@t_c5266 I have since bought this bike. It only has 38 mm of travel at the shock, and 77 mm at the wheel.

@@MrOscillot that's much more than shown in the video for sure. Thing looks like a hardtail here. How do you like the bike?

@@t_c5266 the motor, geometry, and value are great. And the suspension isn't bad for a $1500 bike.

@@MrOscillot this would be the bike I get if I got a full suspension ebike. Then I think just swap out the front forks for marzzochis, upgrade to hydraulic brakes, upgrade to a 1x11 cassette and it's a done deal

I would say that a hub motor is probably a bit more efficient when going flat at constant speed because power is not lost through the chain but mid drive will work more efficiently in real life conditions with (especially steep) climbs, or city stop/go traffic by avoiding high torque/low rpm situations. Also mid drive and torque sensor are more pedal friendly and won't let you use ghost pedalling or throttle so range won't drop as much as a hub motor ebike

also I would be interested to read feedback from dual mid drive/rear hub powertrain

​@@geemy9675 I think you need to do alittle more reading...... Firstly there is two types of hub motors. Direct Drives. And Geared Hubs. Direct Drives will decrease power during use at full speed. So they reduce the amount of power they have while at max speed. Geared hubs normally don't. Geared hubs are better though because they free-spin more smoother then a direct drive system and have better low end starting torque compared to Direct Drives. A Direct Drive motor has a ton of resistance when not using the power. Which is why most hub DD motors will have a regen braking system to provide power back to the motor because of this higher internal resistance in the hub's magnetic field. Geared Hubs have a smaller motor system that is connected to a gearing, And then it spins the hub by a reduction geared system. These have less internal resistance of magnetic force so they have more free wheel spinning then their bigger brothers. They are better in climbing because of the reduced gearing and better starting torque. But not great in power performance because they don't reduce in power at top speed. Also there are Torqued Bottom Brackets designed to work for Hub motor systems. But normally you won't find them on cheaper end bikes because it's more pricey to put a sensored bottom bracket with a torque system inside it. So they just use the classic magnetic wheel to spin to 'Turn ON/OFF' the motor system and have a set amount of power levels. Mid-Drives are the overall best in both power and drive due to the fact you can use the chain as your full function of ether Torque or Speed. Since Mid-Drives are built specifically for high end RPM/Torque They are not built for speed. So they have loads of high torque that is pushed into the drive chain system. So that's why they have better hill climbing, Because when it's placed on the highest/largest sprocket. This gives the wheel lots of spin to climb. Or if you want more top end speed. You can change that Torque into speed. But the problem is. Mid-Drives don't have power for top end speed. So just like a motorcycle. If you start in a high gear. You're gonna start at a crawl. You gotta work your way up to get that higher end speed. Also reason why people prefer Hubs over mid-drives. Is because Hubs are basically maintained free. Their completely sealed/Waterproof/etc. You don't really have to screw with anything to them over most of their life. While Mid-Drives will tend to get warn in after a large amount of time. They can get dirt stuck in the pedal area's and seep into the gears and cause problems. + the wiring management. And the ESC is built into the mid-drives hub. Unlike Hub motors that require a ESC outside on the bike. Mid-drives have the ESC built into the motor housing. So if the ESC faults. You basically gotta replace the whole Mid-drive hub. Power is better on a mid-drive over a hub. Due to less power demand since you can switch to a less frictioned speed and how they have higher torque then hubs do instead of focusing on speed. So they have amazing starting power with less power required. This is why a Mid-drive beats a geared hub in distance by 2-3x farther then a geared system. But both systems have their pros and cons. Nether one is gonna be better then the other. It's really a pic on the bikers style of riding. If you want to deal with no fiddling on the motors and maintaining stuff. Hubs work better. But if you want to have more free-spin and less internal resistance of the wheel slowing down the bike while you pedal without power. Geared the best option. If you want farther distance riding. Direct drives are better if you don't wish to truly pedal at all. etc.

@@geemy9675 You mean a dual motor system of a Mid-drive and FRONT hub powertrain. No one would really put a REAR HUB in tie with a Mid-Drive. Wanna know why? Cause they both power the rear wheel. A Mid-Drive powers the chain that spins the rear wheel (DERP). And a Rear HUB motor. Powers the Rear wheel on it's own. So what's the point of having a HUB and Mid-Drive powering the same REAR wheel? There isn't. The Mid-Drive would overpower the rear hub by over 10x. So it'd be pointless to put extra weight for a rear hub motor if you use a Mid-Drive. Now a Front Hub in combo with a Mid-Drive would work better. More so most people who would do a Front hub in combo to a Mid-Drive, Like i'm doing. Is because since the MID-Drive relies on the CHAIN to transfer the power to the REAR wheel. Without the chain, What happens to the mid-drive? Nothing. You can't do anything. So if the chain snaps, etc. You can't drive and you'd have to walk home. A front-hub is for back up and if you tie it with a extra battery. You can have distance travel, If power disables from the mid-drive. And you won't need to switch batteries to the mid-drive, etc. It's used mainly for ease of use and back up performance. + Also if you need that extra Climbing performance. You can use the front hub as a more grippy tire to climb intengu with the mid-drive for a AWD power. Although you'd need to likely have a throttle for the front so you don't just full out power spin it and slip.

@@geemy9675 Apparently I wanna know why you would even think of doing a mid drive with a rear hub motor dual system.

I would think it'd be similar size to the non-mid-drive version. The best way you can counter this. Is get a 400mm seat post rod vs a 350mm. That way you can have some extra height. Along with adding a slightly higher upped stem for the bike to feel more up style. I did that with my 26er because the bars were hitting my knees while i rod. But i ride more in a cruiser style way vs leaning down. So i upped my stem to a 41ish uprise with a 90mm out. So it's basically like 60mm out and a extended up stem. Fits well with speed and turning. Plus i upgrade the handlebars to 700mm length. Feels more like a dirtbike style with less jiggle while at higher speeds compared to the stock 600mm bars. Or my 620mm's i had before.

For anyone else wondering, someone on the E-Ride Facebook group measured the frame at 17 in.

@@MrOscillot Ah That isn't to bad. I think the 26incher has a 16.5inch frame from the seatpost point to the middle of the pedals.

Walmart who is the seller of Hyper's Bicycles. Normally classes their bikes based on Wheel design. So the 26er can fit around 5.2 and up. While the 29er is more like i think 5.11 and up. That's at it's lowest seat levels. But if you take into the fact of the wheel size 29inch + about a inch more due to the tread. that's 30inches in height from the ground. From the pictures the lowest seat point on the frame would be about 32/33inches. So do a size check while standing straight with pair of shoes. All the way up to your private point/butt. And whatever size that is would be what would fit you. So if you're atleast standing higher then 33inches you should be good. Normally it's recommended for people to atleast have a foot on the ground while sitting on the saddle of the bike for better safety. So if you can't have a level foot on the ground while sitting on the bike. Might be to big. This is why you'll do the measuring from your legs to the middle of you.

@@KillerRaptorr yea because I dont know why they dont put the rider height on the description thank you

@@ramosjosea1000 I think they did for the non-mid-drive version and the 26er. So you could double check that. Pretty sure whatever the non-mid-drive version is. Is likely to be exactly same height ratio as the mid-drive version. Since the only thing different is mainly the rear suspension and frame now holds internal mid-drive motor system built for it.

17" frames typically fit mens 5'9" to 6'.

@@MrOscillot 17 frames = 17inches. Wheels and frame don't always = to eachother. You could put 29inches on a 15inch frame and it'd still be pretty tall. Depending on how the frame is height from the center of the wheels. So take into fact of 29wheels = 29inch from the rim. + another inch to 2inches for the tread height increase on the wheel. That's 31inches. No matter what size the frame is. The frame arms could lower down the bike's sitting point. So it could be a 19inch frame at a lower level to sit people in smaller height. Or it could be a smaller 14inch frame raised up on the wheel arms. Most time also full suspension bikes Can be lowered due to reducing the suspension mm size. Or reducing air to allow a lower ride (Like cars.). So topic. Walmart does have a exact point on framing size specifics. Because they add the point of interest more due to the wheels Size rather then the frame tallness. Because the frames normally tend to have a more straighter arm system from the axle points of the wheel to the bottombracket attachment. So 29-31inch wheels is gonna make that 17inch frame Pretty fricken high. Compared to a smaller 26inch wheel base at 16.5inch frame. Even though the 16.5frame on the hyper E-ride 26mount is just about a half inch or so smaller. The wheel size also makes up a huge amount for the smaller ride height compared to it's bigger 29inch brothers. Instead of just the frame. It's the wheels that make the hugest difference to the size characteristics and not the frame height from the seatpost attachment point down to the center of the bottom bracket point.

I won't swear to it but, I believe they made their own motor for it. still researching myself lol

I'll probably do a review of the bike after I have it dialed in and ridden it enough on mountain bike trails to get a better impression of how it performs on the type of trails it's designed for. This is just a simple range test and quick to do because there's no editing.

Hi John. Yes stock tires, inflated to 50 psi (tire markings say 30-50psi). Not the stock saddle because the stock seat post is way too long so I just took a saddle/seat post from another bike. I feel there's something wrong with the wheel/hub because a 50lb bike shouldn't feel so heavy to pedal without assist on level ground. I did notice both the front and rear wheel don't spin as freely as I expected it to...and I adjusted the front calipers to ensure they are centered. I'll investigate more when I get time and make a video on it also. Good luck on your Hyper mid-drive and hope to hear about your experience!

@@hypere-rideadventures8503 That's interesting, the guy in Vegas on RUclips that one of these thought his caliper was dragging. Wonder if there's something with the drive train on this model dragging...

yes it's one of a kind mid drive full suspension ebike at this price. there are more powerful/bigger batteries ebikes but any full suspension mid drive 8s basically 3k+. this leaves room for upgrades (hydraulic brakes/dropper) and small motor/battery isn't necessarily a bad thing for MTB. torque is a bit on the lower side but if you want to pedal actively and just get electric boost, 8ts a good compromise. I've been hesitant to. by an ebike for years but this might be the one. I just hope quality is not bad. especially frame, motor battery. and hopefully it's serviceable and possible to find parts. I guess for any serious MTB you would probably consider upgrading suspensions, brakes, wheels, tires...I'd love to have MTB wheels and road tires on the stock wheels to be able to commute and ride trails on the WE with the same bike

I've seen speed limit unestriction kits, although a bit pricey. seems like the ananda M80 can deliver 350W on 48V but it's always hard to find compatible batteries with the same form factor that can integrate in the frame. I havent seen controller upgrades for this motor but most probably fully programmable controllers like grintech controllers should be able to extract more performance ?