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Thanks!

Yeah, the only time i find myself relicing stuff is to blend in a repair. Not necessarily to fool anyone about a repair, but to blend in the repair to not be an eyesore... If that makes sense 😬

@@neatguitars1664 Absolutely. That's what I was saying. I have no problem with seeing the repair. It's part of the history, the "life" of the instrument. But it doesn't have to jump out like a neon sign. Blending the repair to match similar wear already present is great.

Thank you! I used linseed oil. I tend to use it before i heat off the frets only on boards that are really dry. In my experience, it helps reduce chip out when removing the frets.

Thank you!

Yeah, there was a lot wrong with this guitar when i got it.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks! You too! 🎄

True, but those are two different beasts.

Thanks a lot!

Thank you!

Thank you

Thanks and welcome!

Thanks!

Different strokes for different folks

Super gooey

Thanks for the sub!

No problem!

All you gotta do is practice!

Thank you!

Thanks! Be careful, someone might say the "T" word (tone) then we would all be in trouble. 😂

Thanks!

My brother recorded these tracks for me. He is a very talented player

It is soothing

Thank you! 😊

My brother recorded it for me. Not sure what guitar he was using that day

Helluva brother lol.. I'm just getting started with guitar repair. I've seen just exactly the proper number of videos here on RUclips to give me the confidence to get into a guitar..

It had two neck reset attempts before me. The first attempt was with screws. The second took the neck off, but glued it back in poorly leaving the heel looking chewed up and the fretboard had a massive hump in it that was choking out notes on the extension.

I understand where you are coming from and I get it. I just try to use period correct materials as much as I can. This LP is from 1980 putting it in the PVA era. Sorry to disappoint, but thanks for the comment!

First of all, a new budget guitar is gonna be way better than any vintage guitar from the 50's and 60's, second of all titebond is stronger and doesn't flex like hot hide glue, also hot hide glue doesn't age well unlike titebond 😊

​@@BleedingDirt-j8n You seem a bit confused, Hot hide glue does not flex when cured, in fact when it cures it becomes crystalline (like glass). Titebond on the other hand remains soft and flexible forever and has a nasty habit of creeping (moving) over time when stressed. Hot hide glue has been used for hundreds of years and was used on Stradivarius violins. Do yourself a favor and do research before you comment on something you don't understand.

Fish glue? guitars should remain vegan.

Really? Telling this luthier what he is doing wrong, after watching him achieve this result?

Thanks!

Thank you!

I typically use a less aggressive cut 3 corner file with safety edges to soften the fretboard edges.

@@neatguitars1664 Like a small hobby file, triangular profile? Not sure if mine has safety edges.

Stewmac sells a fret dress file (item #1601) for around $30. The "safety" name refers to the corners of the files not having a cutting edge. This makes it safer when you roll the edges it won't mark up your fret ends if you get a little close. Or vice versa, it won't dig into your fretboard when you are crowning your frets. Hope that makes sense!

@@neatguitars1664 My Les Paul has its fret nubs intact. I was thinking of maybe a strip of 1000-grit glued to one side of a Popsicle stick. Would that work? This is an older guitar, but Gibson left the fretboard edge of the binding not very well finished.

Stew-Mac won’t accept any phone calls so I don’t use them anymore. There are other companies that are glad to answer your calls so I use them. Sweetwater has quite a bit of useful luthier stuff and their customer service is excellent. Excellent video!

Thanks!

Thank you! I appreciate it!

Appreciate the kind words!

Thanks a lot!

Thanks!

Yeah, they didn't think that through at all.

I was equally surprised.

Yes it did. It's kinda crazy how yellow it had become over the years.

I had an old j-50 that someone spraypainted black. I used naptha on small paper towel squares, and a lot of gentle rubbing i was able to get the black paint off without damaging the nitro underneath. Start in an inconspicuous spot on the back and see if it does anything for you. Send me pics at neatguitars@gmail.com. i'd love to see it!

Give me some credit 😂 low tack tape is down first. Layered duct tape on top for protection while refreting. No duct tape touches the lacquer.

@neatguitars1664 alright, I was worried you would damage the finish

Appreciate that! I tried to make it a little slick!

Thank you for the kind words!

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you!

That's awesome! I've never seen another guitar designed like these with the vinyl on the back.

@ this guitar was bought at my local music store in 1969 along with a Kay Parlor acoustic! I play the Kay quite a bit until I can get a good amp for the Hag!