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Greetings! Well, 2 problems: 1--I can't legally send seeds to another country and 2--even if that was not true my osage won't grow well for you in the tropics. So, I have an alternative suggestion--try and find the related species Maclura brasiliensis, which is from south america and should be a lot easier for you to get and grow. Unless you want it for the wood you could also think about switching to the related and similar looking breadfruit, which as an edible fruit and bark that can be pounded into a form of cloth called tapa or kapa. Just some thoughts, good luck in your search!

Thanks so much for the kind words! First I need to say that while dry scraping is a technique I want to experiment with in the future, it is not one I have tried at this point--SO, please take my thoughts about it with an appropriately large grain of salt. Now, if you look at the material culture associated with the practice the scrapers are of a completely different type than what I am using here, being more like an adze having an actually sharp blade of hard material lashed to a 90-degree naturally bent branch. (There is information related to this in the historic texts available on our Patreon!) Pre-contact these were typically stone but could be copper, post-contact a lot of cast iron pans were broken up to make scraper blades. Dry scrape has to be done under tension, so you have to stretch the hide on a frame before it dries down. As I understand it the big challenge is knowing how deep to go; and making sure that you don't accidentally cut the hide. I have heard that there is a color change between the grain and dermis, but I don't know how marked it actually is. Where I want to try this is on thicker hides that don't wet scrape well, and to curry down thick hides like cattle, buffalo or beaver for making robes--but like I said, I have not tried yet. Related but different, in European cultures hides were thinned with sharp knives similar looking to the fleshing knife I use (but VERY different in edge characteristics) in a process called currying; so this is also a set of techniques you could look up. There is a book series I like called "Primitive Technology: A Book of Earth Skills" that has some descriptions of all the scraping methods, and the already mentioned info on tool archaeology in our Patreon (All the digital resources in the store are free to all patrons). Good luck in your journey!

@@framusburns-hagstromiii808 I hear you. These small things are difficult to show on film. If i zoom too much then all you see is my hand blocking things, so we try and hit a compromise. Come to an in-person demo some time, mine or somebody near you!

Glad to hear it, and glad I could help! There is a lot more info on the subject on the patreon side as well!

Lol, yes, yes it should!

Glad you liked it! I was hoping you would spot it!

Glad it helped!

Glad to help!

Good info, and thank you!

A test cross line is a seperate line specifically bread to be homozygous for the recessive trait you are testing for! Once you are finished test crossing, the line is food, it is not a long lasting part of the breeding program, because once you have eliminated the recessive trait with test crossing it won't come back on its own.

Well, I need to know more before saying anything specific about those cases. First, some folks use the word "line" more loosely than others...for example many game fowl and long tail fowl "lines" are identified by one person's breeding program, "Joe Blo's line of Phoenix" for example. But, in actuality these are never just one line, but a person that maintained many literal lines held in the "cocker's system", but after that person dies the birds just get called "Joe's line of...insert bird" and the details are lost. This can preserve some of genetic integrity for a human lifespan pluss, but will loose vigor over the long term--refer to the soay sheep and white park cattle story mentioned elsewhere in this genetics series. If this is not the case, I still have other questions, because there are many programs that look good from a distance but have problems under the surface. For example, low hatch rate, problems mating, rye neck, high death rate from ovarian cancer in young hens, ect. can all lurk behinds the scenes--even if the 1 year old birds win shows. A breeding program that wins every show it attends but tolerates vigor-reducing traits like these would still be a failure in my opinion.

I will answer all of these in turn: 1) Not really, basically animals with a spinal cord all play by the same general rules. Birds are in the reptilian lineage rather than the mammalian lineage, but that only affects sex linked traits, and also they are more sensitive to hormonal changes than mammals. The only thing that birds really have going for them (at least along the lines we are talking) over dogs is that when breeding birds people are more willing to eat the culls. 2) Yes, outbreeding depression is a thing that can happen, it is discussed in the other videos in the series. You have to be just as careful when outcrossing as in any other kind of cross. I would encourage you to start with video 1 in the series and watch it through to vid. 4, it will help you process some of the things you are asking here as they all tie together! Good luck and have a blessed day!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm I actually did start at video one in the series I just didn't comment until now.

They would grow, this method only works because it is harsh and only wood rot fungi can grow. It is intended to to start a culture that goes directly to wood where those random dormant bacteria will never have a chance to take off. To get true sterile cultures you need a lab and lab skills.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm I see, so if my substrate where to be something like hardwood pellets and wheat bran, a wood based substrate, would the cardboard mycelium culture successfully fruit? Thanks

@@bapple-7735 The only sure way to know is to try!

Yep...and next week's video is actually how to properly sharpen and axe!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm Truly great minds... :D

Future video, this batch needs restoration and sharpening first, which will also be a future video! I do use the one of that has been sharpened in the duck carving video series :-)

@@oldwaysrisingfarm There are a few saw filing videos on YT, some better than others. Warren Miller has the master class. BTW, consider filming outdoors as your inside videos are a bit dark.

@@navinhookoom3584 It's not a great method for buttons, porteballas or other soil growers. Those need full lab methods, this is for wood rot fungi only.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm Thanks a lot for your quick response!

@@NightsideOfParadise glad it helped, good luck on your project!

@@liesecarey9494 Well, for simple mendelian traits a test cross is a cross between an individual with unknown genotype and one with a known homozygous recessive condition. If the offspring are approximately 50/50 dominant VS. Recessive phenotypes then the unknown parent is recessive, if the unknown parent is homozygous then all offspring will be as well. Then, you use thus information to decide weather or not to cull the parent being tested; all test cross offspring are typically considered culls.

@@liesecarey9494 Now, knowing of a trait is simple mendelian. The best case senerio is to consult the literature and get an answer. If the trait of interest is not in the literature think it through a little...traits that fall on a sliding scale like size and growth rate are usually pollygenetic, truth that are "either or" are typically mendelian. But these are guidelines with exceptions and you may just have to experiment.

Yes, do it, and use the birch! Paper birch has a published 12% moisture content specific gravity of 0.61, which is only slightly lighter than the ash (which is 0.67) I used to make the red stick in this series, it will work well and should easily make a 60-80 yard stick with the proper tuning and fluting shown in the last 2 vids. of the series! Just don't compare yourself to somebody using polycarbonate or heavier-than-water acacia to make 120yd sticks. But, real talk, would you actually try to hit a little bitty grouse at that range any how? Make your best stick for your best hunt, respect the lives of the animals sacrificed for your food, ask your permissions, give thanks, and give something back in the process. Best wishes, and let me know how it goes! PS--I did not mention it in the series, but I recall reading accounts (a long time ago) of Hudson Bay Company agents observing crooked sticks being thrown at long range into flocks of waterfowl--so there precedent for this technology in your forest type...somewhere...but nothing better than paper birch exists in the Taiga forest so it has to work. I did not mention it because I don't remember and can't re-find the source of that tidbit...but I wish I could. The historic info I have been able to collect is collated in the "Scholars Notebooks" series of resources on our patreon. Here is the wood database entry on paper birch: www.wood-database.com/paper-birch/

Depends--for rendering neatsfoot from the bone ends yes, but I never boil any bone piece I intend to carve, it weakens them. Those I scrape clean and render the fats separately.

Thank you sir for your prompt reply. ​@@oldwaysrisingfarm

Glad I could help!

Glad to help, and good luck!

Glad to help, and thank you for sharing that prayer, blessings to you as well!

@@CaseyBliss-fn2wl both!

@@oldwaysrisingfarm thank you! I posted that question before I finished the video lol

Glad to be of assistance, friend from across the pond!

Thanks! Glad to help!

The sun won't hurt it, but keeping bugs out with some kind of cover is a good idea in summer months. As to chemistry, the warmer the weather the faster the lime works on the hair and the faster the hide will spoil if you leave it in to long (but, even mid summer I have kept hides in lime for a month...but longer than that I have had them spoil in hot weather). Temperature won't have a significant impact on how long it takes soap to degrees a hide. Does that answer your question?

@@oldwaysrisingfarm yep! For the most part. I want the hair to stay on. I used a gallon of vinegar as you did. I may however have to do the lime treatment on a different hide as I think I have a bacterial attack on it and the hair is pulling out of the hide . I have not treated the hide in anything yet.

@@CaseyBliss-fn2wl Could be bacteria or the grease itself. If you are using alum to set the hair, temperature and time of year will have little impact.

So after the degreasing soak. I will membrane as you suggest in the video. I was planning on tanning in alum,washing soda and salt solution according to a book I'm following (tan your hide, author: Phyllis Hobson) Do you recommend any other step after the final membrane step?

Yes, as close relatives to animals the mushrooms use oxygen and produce carbon dioxide just like we do. The bags are very, very short term, and I won't leave them in there without opening long enough to go completely anaerobic and for a full grow-out, they need air circulation. If you want to see how I use canning jars in a way that allows air circulation but prevents dust getting in for a large grow-out, watch the vid on producing plug spawn. Thanks for watching and asking!

Its true! Failing at things is how we really learn, and we need out failures.

Sure, the "about" tab went away in a recent RUclips "style update" now you look just under the header on the channel homepage and click the bolded "...more" to get the about info. It is "improved" because it is now more confusing...sarcasm intended, lol. If that does not work the channel gmail address is the channel name with no caps or spaces; if I type it here as an email address it will attract spam bots which is why it hides behind a captcha in the about info.

That's really creative! Did it work to promote internal growth?

Variable, you can take the fully colonised cardboard and add it directly to a growing medium; you can also use it to make dowel spawn (did this on the channel in another video) or sawdust spawn for inoculating logs later on.

Not really, bucking is the mechanical removal of the grain layer before tanning. Nubuck is a chemical tan followed by sanding off the grain layer after the fact. True traditional buckskin is brain tanned, which requires removal of the grain layer before tanning and is quite different from chemical tannage in many important ways, you can't just sub in the imitation tans and use them in the same way.

@@oldwaysrisingfarm thanks so much for in-depth reply and video:)

Generic grocery store vegetable oil, corn, canola, or a mix of the two. It all works!

Lol, yes. Or, is the rooster the real "host" and I'm just along for the ride! lol.

Well, eventually (key word) you can cut it back that far, it steps, and with time. You can't cut lower than the lowest significant (i.e. not just a single bud or weak little branchlet) green branch; but you can coax the plant to make more branches lower down. Start by pruning out the dead material, which will give you a clear view of what you are doing. Then, thin a third to half of that shield of green so light can get through to the interior. You won't be cutting it back at this stage, just thinning it out to allow light in. Now, you wait a year!!!! the plant will throw out a bunch of green growth, and next year you can thin it out more. In the third year some of those new shoots will be strong enough to stand on their own and you can cut it back. Distance from foundation...that's more of a construction question than a plant health question and I am not a contractor. You can use this technique to prune it according to your contractor's recommendations.

Better to prune in mid June when the new growth start. And boxing them is ugly. And leave the bottom half fatter. Than the top.