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Nice suggestion "cboy"... I also found that the hard way. While I design in SketchUp I usually scale up and make my circles in 96 segments and arcs in 48.... then downscale to normal size... that way I minimise segmentation issues. I back end my processing with CorelDraw, and for critical items (circles) I will use the vector capabilites of Coreldraw to draw what seem to be perfect cicles (within limitations). Unfortunately in this case I bought Matthias Wandells gear generator woodgears.ca/gear/ which when passed through SketchUp dropped the segment count down and I was too lazy to manually adjust.... However, in my case just upscaling to 2x would have minimised some of the friction issues. Nevertheless thank you for your contribution... I'm sure others may get some benefit from those wise words (no, I'm not pissing in your pocket... thanks)....

@@alexkara9696 Hi, Well even if you would draw a circle out of sketchup with another program (autocad, illustrator, coreldraw...) to avoid the segmentation in sketchup, the laser cutter can not produce a perfectly round circle. To do a simple test you can cut 2 simple circles (not in skp) with center holes and line them up exactly against each other and then spin them. Then you can see how much your lasercutter or the one you cut it on is 'off'. For my gears I used the same and some other plug in also in Sketchup. True that skp isn't handling circles well and the fragmentation issue still isn't solved in it (shame). Just the two issues together make it even more bad 😊. I ended up by sanding my gears to 'round' by using a drill to spin them since I don't have a lathe. But good work. It seems there is not much to find on automaton/automata movements in a overview. The weirdly shaped wheels were mostly used to make 'complicated' moves often in combination of 2 with a double arm connection. Good example is '' lanky doodler '' Keep up the good work!

You are more than welcome... thank YOU!

When I bought the offset base it was on a whim... since I've discovered their advantage and use it nore times than I ever thought.

Thanks AH... MY intention is not to expect viewers to do the stupid things I do, but often they can get ideas they may adapt somewhere else and see tools/gadgets they are not familiar with.... and it keeps me out of the house doing SWMBO's chores.

@@alexkara9696 😃😃😃

Glad I could help and "entertain".

Thanks lizm'... thank my script writer "De Bortoli Wines"...

Thx... However, there are 12 girls... only 1 like... not fair trade!

"galling"??? Is that a CFMEU conspiracy?

Thx for the Thx.

Hi Andy... certainly not spraying fodder. Even a much bigger compressor struggles with spraying. This is definitely a low volume job (as opposed to air flow) item that is ideal for small dispenses of fair pressure air and portability.

Thanks t.e. Unfortunately it has suffered an untimely demise, craftisian.com/projects/12622-changing-of-the-guard-or-end-of-an-era

Thanks 0'7... that's what SWMBO always says... funny peculiar!

Thank you...

Thanks for the heads up. I'm just a hack woodie with bugger all metalurgy knowledge. I never dreamt that cast could be so "easily" distorted. I think it was due to not having the shaft parallel with the spindle and not securing it properly... letting it "vibrate" in an oval path. I've since replaced the lifting handle (crank) with a wheel u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZX43R0ZzC6cmFW1Mo0xPpI1VvbzPkQhFs8V and that should be sufficient for me.

@@alexkara9696 Excellent job. I think that looks great. I’m not a metal worker either. I hope to implement something to make it easier to raise and lock my drill press. This gives me another idea. Cheers.

Hi Ftd. Not sure what scale it is in but it certainly not HO. The full length of the Reading in the forefront, including all the rolling stock, minus the tracks, is about 1.9m. The engine-tender is 88.3cm. If you are familiar with Sketchup, the model can be viewed/downloaded from the 3D Warehouse, 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/ef232dd9-9cfa-4da9-a1ee-0bb0ed5827be/Trains Just click on the picture, and you can navigate the model through the scenes (Views), rotate the model, zoom in. There is a free version of Sketchup which could permit you to globally resize it to HO scale.

Ok thanks

You don't tell the numbers... You just have to... "figure"... it out.

Thanks Tony, but weed need to share a gallon... otherwise you'd go thirsty.

That dear M is my home sewn "Workshop_RUclips_video recording" uniform. Unfortunately after 13 years of dedicated service it has bee RIP(ed), and replaced by a more up to date ensemble, craftisian.com/projects/12622-changing-of-the-guard-or-end-of-an-era You just need to shop around for an appropriate material and a pattern befitting your personal midriff.

👍👍👍

Glad is is/was useful.

Glad it may have helped...

Hi gp. Most of my work (puzzles) are done by laser, not so much that they cannot be done using traditional tools, but I find that the laser is quick, 100% accurate and totally repeatable. I don't sell any of my stuff, so spending hours/days on a puzzle would be unproductive as a give away (especially to strangers). A lot of my puzzles have been plagiarised from standard timber versions and often reverse engineered. This one, ruclips.net/video/LoJkBeztYC8/видео.html I bought the plans off Woodsmith, www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/clever-puzzle-boxes/ which was design to be made out of solids and I reverse engineered it, imported it into SketchUp and laser cut it... so it's not beyond anyone without a laser/CNC to do. If you really want to go down the path of puzzle boxes, a chap called Kel Snake on the Craftisian forum specialises in them, craftisian.com/KelSnake craftisian.com/KelSnake/projects I haven't seen him on the site for a few months, however, he might be able to give more info... though I believe he sells his products, so trade secrets may be an issue. You might need to join the site and PM him through internally. I do 99% of my work through Sketchup and CorelDraw (before laser/workshop duties), however, if you need any further info, you can contact me at, alexpuzzles@karapens.com and hope you make it through my spam filters. Good luck and enjoy your retirement... life is just starting.

Unfortunately you are one garbage cycle collection too late... I have thrown away all the packaging last week and I chose my items by sight and not by part number. However, giving part numbers may be an issue as different stores supply different brands and the combination is limitless. Basically the buzz word is 'Nitto 1/4" BSP' fittings if you choose Nitto and 1/4". There are many different types of connectors depending on your global location. I use Nitto on my compressor and air supply in the workshop so it's Nitto for me. I chose 1/4" as the tubing I use is 1/4" (or 6mm and a heat gun to fit the 6mm over 1/4" bayonet fittings). Choosing what piggy backss what is just careful planning as the part you may need to perform a particular function may need to be combined by two different parts... either because of your requirement or unavailability of that specific part. Good luck... I'm just a noob so if I could make it work anyone can... just plan and chose your parts carefully to avoid unnecessary expenditure and left overs. Just shop around... prices can vary dramatically between suppliers. In Australia I found "Enzed" had better prices for most parts... but then again I said most parts.

Thanks for the suggestion @orb' haven't even thought of that, however, jst thinking (before actual trying), resting "on the table" might interfere with the fence and/or the various attachments I have for it... still will consider before customising.

Sorry SW, This was done for a friend from plans he supplied. I'm no expert and unfortunately have no desire to become one... unfortunately for inspiration in 3D you'll need to seek elsewhere.

Thanks D_W, appreciated. I just hope it can give others ideas... not necessarily conviction that they must buy a Micro-Mark.

Thanks SJ... I'm not into automata and only did this as a favour for a friend... however, if you and anyone can get some use/ideas from this, it makes my day.it,

Sanding my face gets rid of a few (many) wrinkles. With my sillyarse face... Buffing is a great way of cleaning up wood and metal, however, few think about acrylics... hopefully I can impart that knowledge to some and the speed at which it can be achieved. After all that, how the fuck are you and a happy New Year!

I've been sublimated to believe they're made by the same multi-national... but I agree... I believe the path up the line is Ozito, Ryobi, AEG and Milwaukee... though that may change day by day. Ryobi is my goto for seldom use... Milwaukee is the choice for often use... but that is only if Fe$tool version is NOT available.

Thanks for the comment 5280... Another one of my warbles is for my Fe$tool VACSY that I always call SYSVAC. There a few chamfers on the market nowadays, however, the hand operated ones is a pain and I do recommend the UJK with the reamer... that reamer is great for clean up of the full depth of the 19mm deep dog holes when the wood has inevitable expanded or got tattered/furry.

Thanks 5280. What I haven't included in this video is the inclusion of some inline filters to protect the pump/Grabo from sawdust/imputities. Further details of them can be found as an addition/amendment at the bottom of my post as a project at Craftisian, craftisian.com/projects/12946-mft-mounted-vacuum-clamp-pods

Thanks for "watching" JG... now go and put some new batteries into your hearing aid.

Thanks JM... all I want is to, 1. Make people aware of them in case that miss all the Rockler spams. 2. Give ideas that with some thought could be greatly improved on.

Thanks Phil... I've been making hack videos for 3+years and I often try to say "in view or in viewfinder", but notice during editting, I keep saying "focus"... cant teach old dog new tricks and if I was a dog I would be 11 years old.

Unfortunately the shop apron is dead... has been laid to rest and replaced, craftisian.com/projects/12622-changing-of-the-guard-or-end-of-an-era the safety footwear is being modified by not trimming toenails. The Dremel has some good uses.... The UJK PARD fas a fair investment, however, I use it extensively to mount other machines using the TSO Lock Dogs, tsoproducts.com/bench-dogs/tso-dogs/power-loc-bench-connector-dogs/ They're not cheap either, but to me time is my most precious commodity and anything that can save me time is worth every shekel.

Sorry Max, I'm not into automata and haven't really studied it. A friend approached me about the subject and asked if I could cut and build something something using my laser. He teaches woodworking and wanted some sort of example to show his student.... that is the limit of my knowledge about automata. Good luck in your venture.

Pleasure!