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Nice plant under the sunflowers! ; )

I eliminated a paid helper (with the help of my pallet forks on my skid steer) and my new MudMixer, to pour sidewalks and pads for AC Heat pumps/generators, etc. Purchased the extension and can now fill 3 - 60lb bags at one time, plus it breaks open the bags easier. Start with a 5 gal bucket under the spout to get the mix right. Back off the water if the mix is too wet, and shut it off before the hopper empties. Keep the machine very clean and it will never fail you. Overall you did a good job here and your next job will be even better!

Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Read this first before you buying a miter saw! It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Conclusion: Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner... P.S. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.

What a fun surprise

You have built a great channel and I enjoy your enthusiasm. I just bought one of those kits but with the regulator from “V power” and had success. The regulator they supply is apparently a higher volume, fixed pressure type and seems to work great from starting to load.

What kind of baseball faux leather?

What an easy fix when you know how. I have the same saw so now I know how to set mine thanks to you. Thanks

I’ll take the old blue all day every day!!

You know how to do so many things! If you don't know how, you figure it out 😊

If you square the blade in will not work right, if at all. They are made to be round. lol

I did this about three years ago with my 2001 Chevy Astro that had a broken outer door handle. Drilling that hole is the only way to get that bolt off, so I highly recommend this method. I did take the whole door panel off first before watching videos and realizing that top bolt is almost impossible to get to without the extra hole. I ordered a round plastic piece to cover it up, plugged it in the hole, and it looks great ❤.

Thank you Sir

Fuel pump failure is a very common problem on the GM vans, especially the ones with the spider fuel injection and most often caused by running the vehicle with less than a half a tank and the pump starts to overheat and fails and contamination in the fuel and the only thing you can do is replace it

GlAd it worked well

bought that harbor freight sprayer few years back for 50 bucks, used it to paint kitchen cabinet faces and all the doors in my house as well as my 16 foot garage door. the thing worked great, the key thing is correct paint viscosity an keeping it clean between use which is a piece of cake at least with water based. probably a slight overthinning is called for, the included viscosity cup is handy to be consisten.

Thank you for posting this. I love listening to audiobooks on my long drives. I'm going to give this a try

Here in my area, the price of concrete is through the roof. This machine is a game changer.

Another video said "adjust sparkplug gap to 0.025 inches for propane or natural gas."

Lets get to work.

Please enjoy this happy positive comment to help tickle your algorithm. I recently found your channel and I enjoy your episodes keep them coming.

I have the same table saw and I had problems with the motor also. The motor would buzz and pop the circuit breaker. I checked the switch and the wiring and it all pointed towards the motor. So I took the motor off the mount to take it somewhere to get checked out. But before I disconnected the wiring with the motor laying on top of the saw I plugged it in one more time and it worked fine. I remounted the motor and it's been fine ever since. I guess I scarred it that it was going to be operated on.

Such a simple fix! That's awesome.

I HATE THAT TYPE OF ECHO VOICE

You are on the right track. I didn't read a lot of the comments but here are my 2 cents worth. It is a trial and error learning curve. I've poured a lot of mud out of a truck. The auger system of mixing is way different than a conventional mixer. The consistency of the mud changes very quickly to the point that if you don't work the mud it gets very stiff. I was going to say the mud gets hard, however stiff works better. If the mud gets stiff, and it will, you can manipulate it back to workable. (Work it with a tool or move it around with your feet.) With this said I have to add I have never had good luck with Sakrete. So I don't use it. Now and again I have had mix issues with Quikrete where there is not enough cement or too much. Not enough gives a rocky mix that is hard to work. For the most part Quikrete works the best for me. Nail on the head regarding the angle of the auger. This is a case for quickly adjusting the water when you know the angle changes. If I remember right, if the auger is tilted up the mud gets stiff, if it is pointed down it gets wetter. Short story is you have to monitor the water all the time. Just a tip, I have used the nozzle to inject water at the auger if the mud is too dry. The pressure is a factor also. Part of the adjusting issue till you get it just right. Oh and another tip. I understand the not wanting to put fill in and just using concrete. The only time "some" concrete contractors will not grade with fill is when the customer is paying for the concrete.

Nice!

Way to figure it out! Hopefully this will save people time and money when they go to replace theirs.

It works great!

These work so well!

My JD is the same.

Ya skipped a whole lot there, just screwing the carborator on, then staring it, then saying so easy. That's like me saying here is V8 engine. I just got loom at this mustang body I have here how hard could it be then me starting it

I grew up on and have owned properties w wells, I get it about the pressure tank and varying pressure. Check the range on your well. If it's 45-65 PSI, get a pressure regulator for 40 PSI. Or a variable pressure regulator if such a device is made. Install it on the hose as close to or on the MM. W the PSI regulated below the cut-in pressure on the well, the MM shouldn't ever see any fluctuation in water pressure. If your well pressure switch is set to 45-65 PSI (fairly common in my experience), that MM will see the 45 PSI up to the 50 PSI. Not much fluctuation, but maybe it's that sensitive. A pressure regulator will be far easier than a reservoir and special purpose pump.

very helpful. i could not find any other video of how to remove carburetor.Thank you!!

I am not a concrete specialist but to me, wouldn't have been easier to test the mixture into a bucket ? instead of directly into your slab ? cause if your mixture is to strong or to wet, you can always re work it with a hand drill mixer and then pour it in...

I need to get this done but just going to have a exhaust shop do it for me

It’s just so damn slow.

Thanks for the information on the case😂

Oh my god do not do this.WD40 turns into a sticky goo after a few years. It's also corrosive to plastics and circuits. Which is what your buttons are. Here's the correct way - Disconnect the battery, and use CRC Electronic Contact Cleaner, FaderLube, or rubbing alcohol. I have never found a proper use for WD40. It isn't an oil, it isn't a cleaner, it isn't safe on synthetic materials. There are better alternatives for every scenario. Don't even buy the stuff.

I'm almost a 1/3 of the way thru the video. So far nothing about the unboxing of the Delta 46-460. I'm out.

Took a little time, but looked easy.

Great job!

I did the same thing with a Stihl fs45 weed trimmer and it ran great for a year and now it's dead and you can't tune it at all.

I just replaced the carb on my Stihl 85c leaf blower with a $23 CAD amazon carburetor and it fired right up. Of course it needed some tweaks and adjustments, but overall runs great! I've bought about 10 amazon carburetors for several Stihl machines, MTD lawn mowers, Ryobi trimmers, etc. over the summer and haven't had an issue yet. Maybe it's something you're doing wrong?

What is the white spay you are using?

Video essentially is correct--BUT, on a 2013 Laramie 2500 Diesel with the wheelwell trim, there is more to removing the inner fender liner. I encountered at least two, maybe three push-pin fasteners holding the inner fender liner in place. I ended up just prying the liner out of place enough to sort of fold it back toward the wheel enough to access the pump. Then, getting all that crap lined back up to replace the screws was a whole other story.

How does the chicks like it.

✨👽✨ 👶❤️

I wanted to see you pull it

Hey Jeff, good to see your face again. Useful vid. Thanks for sharing. Take care. -Mike

These carb kits leak propane and run like crap! Buy a better kit that don't waste propane

I bought this carbeurator and regulator but it don't run correctly on the propane