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Hey Tim, different account but the same guy here, I would suggest in this case lubricating the shaft with WD-40 then getting it to spin, the lubricating again and spining it etc. It sounds like there is rust or corrosion internally that is causing the shaft to stick. Especially if it is an older pump and you can see corrosion and rust in the back.

Try to turn on power to the motor so that it hums and then immediately twisting the shaft counter-clockwise in a quick motion. That may be enough to throw it into motion. Did anything proceed the motor stopping?

Glad to hear it worked out! If there is debris in the impeller (especially pine needles), you can also take out the pump basket and using your finger or a long thin metal object like a coat hanger, you can pull out bits of debris until the impeller is clear.

Glad to hear you saw it in time!

Dang! I'm surprised it worked even with all those pine needles clogging the impeller, but that's good to hear!

And how is it different? Do you have the model number? I can take a look.

@@willowtreepoolservice764 figure it out, my capacitor was the issue.

@erickrhernandez1451, I mostly just eyeball it: it isn't an exact science. If you end up with a 4:1 or 6:1 it doesn't necessarily mater. II assume you're referring to cleaning a salt chlorine generator. If after pouring in the mixture the generator begins to bubble, it's acidic enough. You can use a pyrex if you'd like but you don't have to. Is that what you're asking?

Hey that's great to hear Mark; you always want to troubleshoot the least expensive stuff first before replacing the expensive stuff like the capacitor. I've only had a few occasions where a dead capacitor was the problem, but many times when the shaft was to blame.

Glad to hear! :)

The only white metal stain is calcium, it could be calcium carbonate or calcium silicate which is its evil cousin. You can try carefully pouring some type of acid on top of it and see if it dissolves (like muriatic acid).

Thank you! Since making this video, Ive switched over to dumping the solution in a patch of dirt instead, not sure it matters either way but it makes me feel better at night.

Glad to know it worked out for you! Yeah rotating the impeller from the front can also work, it's usually more labor intensive though.

Yes, some do! Makes it super easy to turn 👍

By the way I’m the author, different account

💪💪💪

Thank you!

My pleasure!

It sounds like there is a problem with the motor you bought; was it a resale?

@@willowtreepoolservice764 it actually fired up 10 minutes after I posted this and never did it since. It’s brand new. See how she does in the summer

That is correct, there needs to be power to the circuit breaker for there to be power to the motor.

I’m not sure what you mean by powerclean, the salt cell can only be cleaned with an acid bath as demonstrated in the video.

Lanthanum Chloride

On many motors these days, the shaft is covered by the governor (which is a metal tab looking part with two springs attached) and the V-switch over that. To jump start this variety, you need to grab the governor with a pair of pliers and fling it like you would the shaft right after turning the power on to the motor.

Thank you!

That would be fine as long as you don’t scratch the electrodes, it’s better to use a paint stick!

Should be 1 part acid in 10 parts of water... so for example if you add 1 litre of water into a bucket then fill it up with 100ml of acid

I usually just eyeball it. Take a bucket and fill it with water, then judge how much 1/4 acid would be relative to it.

Did I say that in the video?

If your pump is running on 220 and one side trips only allowing 110 to flow through, it would definitely have enough power to hum but not run.

@christiedixon1446 very true. Sorry I didn't consider this. I should have mentioned my pump is only 110. So I was able to get it to spin. Shaft was rusting. It ran for 30 minutes and ceased up again. I ended up buying another pump.

You can buy them on Amazon, they usually have the best prices honestly. If you buy them from the manufacturer directly, or from a retailer like Leslie's, you're going to pay a markup. Professionals in the industry buy theirs wholesale, but the price in my experience is about comparable, maybe a little less, than Amazon.

@@willowtreepoolservice764 Thank you!

@@tylergregory4595 you're welcome! Hopefully you found one.

Infelizmente, não posso traduzir o vídeo inteiro, mas posso escrever algumas instruções para você aqui. Válvula Multiporta: - Filtro: Filtra a Água Através da Areia. Configuração normal - Resíduos: drena a água da piscina - Inverno: abre os canos para evitar que o gelo os quebre - Fechado: Bloqueia a água da piscina para que você possa limpar a cesta - Backwash: Limpa a areia invertendo o fluxo de água - Recircular: Redireciona a água ao redor do filtro - Enxágue: Garante que a sujeira residual não permaneça nas linhas após a retrolavagem Pontas: - Sempre desligue a bomba antes de girar a alça - Às vezes, girar a alça para retrolavagem e depois filtrar várias vezes ajuda a fornecer uma limpeza mais profunda da areia. Espero que ajude!

@@willowtreepoolservice764 obrigada gratidão ❤

@Alicia Krick, if you can scrape off the calcium deposits with a paint stick for instance try that first, but they are chemically bonded on to the electrodes so you may not be able to. Personally, I wouldn't have an issue using a diluted solution of acid, but that's just me. If you are afraid of ruining the plates somehow, use a weaker acid such as citric acid, ascorbic acid, or acetic acid (vinegar).

Open up the back cover and place your pliers on the shaft with one hand and turn on the pump with the other. When you hear it humming, immediately fling the shaft to the right (clockwise) with the pliers and see if it starts running. Are you sure you replaced it with the correct model of capacitor?

@@willowtreepoolservice764 that was part of the problem. My capacitor was 40.0uf. The only one I found to fit was a 60.0uf, but still 370vac. My motor has a fan on the back so it is easy to spin, but it doesn't seem to spin fast enough to start pulling water. I filled all I could with a hose before starting. Still not pumping. I appreciate your help.

@@rcracechamp I would consider either finding the correct capacitor or just getting a new pump entirely. Not necessarily cheap I know but at least that way you're guaranteed to solve your problem. If you can afford it, I recommend the new generation variable speed pumps, I almost never have an issue with them.

What is the pump brand? Is it used or refurbished?

@@willowtreepoolservice764 hayward. I kept turning the shaft and it never got better. I had to use pliers to move the shaft. It moved a little then stopped. Something inside was preventing it from spinning freely.

Johanna, I am not sure of the correct answer there. Although the calcium composition is changed during the chemical reaction between the scale and the muriatic acid, it is possible that reintroducing it into the pool isn't the best idea. Perhaps a better way would be to just dump the solution in a patch of dirt away from plants and animals.

Have to say, I disagree with Johanna’s pool guy’s blanket statement. A certain amount of dissolved calcium is necessary in pool water. Unless my calcium hardness was borderline high, I would not hesitate to do this, and in fact, I always do exactly this. If PH is already low, doing this will be counterproductive, but it’s such a small amount of acid that it’s easily corrected in any case.

Yes, I’m not convinced the amount of calcium in the salt cell is relevant to matter in the scheme of things. I and countless other Pool service providers use calcium Hypochlorite shock to keep algae under control each week. Only a tiny fraction of the total calcium in the water might end up as scale on the grids and as you referred to, a lot of it has to do with high ph.