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You are correct about it being dangerous and not trusting vice grips. I've never seen anyone drill into the mechanism and use a nut and bolt, but that doesn't mean it won't work. Let us know if you find a better way. Thanks for watching and reaching out.

Happy to help! Thanks for watching.

If you look closely next to the transmission hump, the carpet has big holes in it. I actually found the correct carpet and installed it, it looks fantastic. Thanks for watching and reaching out.

The inverter is still available. Go to www.fpmarine.com and type “inverter” into the search bar.

Thanks for watching and reaching out. Those jack-screws come apart pretty easily. Clean the old grease out of them and use new grease to get them to operate. If for some reason, you have a stripped gear or missing bearings, you'll need to go to a junk yard and salvage some jacks from a donor car. I use a little thicker grease than lithium white grease, it's too thin and won't last. A little of the grease you use on the steering linkage (anything from a standard grease gun) will work just fine.

Thanks for watching. The 71 is a great car. I don't have a specific video, but if you watch a bunch of our other ones, you'll get some tips. the 76 Eldorado and 75-76 Sedan deVille are very similar. Of course, if you get stuck on something, please reach out and we can give you some answers.

Glad to hear it, that’s why we make these videos. Thanks for watching!

merci d'avoir regardé et pour votre aimable commentaire.

If the lights are still working, you can try tightening the box to the mounting bar in the trunk, but if it still buzzes, it’s probably going to go out soon. It’s just a tiny transformer, it will blow the fuse before it hurts anything. Thanks for watching.

True story!

@@westofthelakecadillacclub well I guess next time I wash my 76 convertible I am going to see how well mine works, I believe they are the original ones since the car has just over 10k miles on it. The only way it will see rain is if I get caught out cruising, at a parade or a car show. But then, who knows how long these will be available, I should buy some and store away. Thanks for sharing.

I don’t know of a more effective way, sometimes brute force is the only thing that works. Remember seeing those signs in the service department at a car dealer that say “customers not allowed in shop area”? That’s why. It’s got nothing to do with insurance, they just don’t want you to see them beating on your car.🤣 Thanks for watching.

Good luck, let us know how it worked out.

@@westofthelakecadillacclub Thank you for your kind remarks.. I am hoping to replace the plastic drive coupler without actually removing the seat or the rails. I just have to get a 7mm wrench in there. I got the motor out, ok. You have done a tremendous amount of work on your project, HUGE,

I am just thinking that because the seats ride and fall on some type of cable driven screw jack mechanism, it might be a good idea to keep the screw jack mechanism lubricated with a shot of WD-40 or some such, because if the mechanism lacks lubrication, the resistance might cause that plastic drive train coupler to crack.

@@edwardnugent4681 You are 100% correct, but I wouldn't use WD-40; I'd use some for of Lithium White Grease. You can use the stuff in a can with the same spray tube as WD-40, but it's a heavier grease for the jack screws.

Thanks for watching and letting us know how much this helped you. This is one of our first videos and we hadn’t gotten a tripod. Our newer videos are better quality, but the information is just as good. Let us know if we can help with anything else.

Hi Edgar: Hopefully you will find that gear housing and stop the leak. I am remembering something about the photocell and amplifier needing to be replaced together as a matched set. Check the shop manual. It might just be for the twilight sentinel.

@westofthelakecadillacclub Hi there, that only applies for the Twilight Sentinel. Although, that's not really true. Many years ago, with my 80 Cadillac Coupe, I replaced just the Twilight Sentinel box alone and it still worked with the photo cell. The Twilight Sentinel on my 78 Coupe, works as it should. And regarding the trans leak, it's a very minimal leak, but it'll be fixed soon. And my replacement photo amplifier and headlight switch comes in today rather than tomorrow. So we'll know later if it works correctly. 🤞

Awesome! It’s great to see a new generation getting into these cars!

Oooh, no. That sounds like it’s the electroluminescent strips. Unfortunately, only a known working set from a junkyard car will fix that. Sorry to hear that.

Now it’s Working again looks pretty bright. Maybe it just had to settle. Thank you for your time. And your videos. You are truly a saint🙌🏽

@@santomcdonough1348 That’s awesome! If it happens again you might want to double check all your wiring connections. Thanks for the update.

Sounds like you either have a power seat transmission issue or the motor is only turning one way. I’d start with a test light and make sure the motor is getting power in both directions. If there is power in both directions but the motor only turns one way, the motor is bad. Only power to one direction and you’ve got a wiring issue, check the relay outputs. If the motor turns both ways but the seat doesn’t move, remove the transmission and clean and re-grease it. If I had to bet, I’d put my money on the relay wiring. Thanks for watching and reaching out.

Thank you for watching and supporting our videos

Thanks for watching. I still have lots of Cadillac print ads from magazines of the 60s, 70s and 80s. The only way to travel is Cadillac style!

Remove the radio knobs and hex nuts between the knobs and the radio. Remove the two center A/C outlet vents to access the screw in each outlet. Remove the lower left and lower right screws on the center trim plate, and shazam, the whole center panel comes out. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and for reaching out.

Thank you, it's very helpful

Thanks for watching and reaching out. If you mean removing the mirror and the cable as a single unit, yes, that is pretty easy. If you mean removing the cable from the mirror itself, I've never been able to do that. I tried to reverse engineer how they built it new, and haven't been able to figure it out. I have a half dozen mirrors with cables that no longer control the glass, so if anyone knows how to rebuild those, I'm intereseted.

Yeah, the problem I’m having is I want to get my mirror re-chromed but the chroming business said that I have to remove the cable before they chrome the housing of the mirror. I had one extra mirror that I tried to reverse engineer it to remove the cable, but I ended up ruining the cable trying to get the cable out of the housing mechanism.

@@andremitchell4966 Yeah, that's exactly the same thing I found. According to the Fisher Body Manual, those mirror cables were form fitted at the factory and excepting for the glass, they are not serviceable. If anyone out there knows of someone who has figured out how to re-cable those mirrors, let us know.

Hi, thanks for watching and reaching out. On this car, the blue and white wires are the 110 volt wires (2 sets, one for each opera lamp), the blue is the “hot” and the white is the “neutral”. The brown wire is the 12 volt ground and the black wire is the 12 volt “hot”.

Ha! Remember, it’s not the volts, it’s the amps that will kill you. This whole set up is barely a couple of amps, but it will sting like putting your tongue on a 9 volt battery (don’t do THAT either!). I replied to your earlier question above. Getting your opera lights to work seems like a small thing, but it sure makes the car look complete when it’s done. Thanks for watching.

@@westofthelakecadillacclub GREATLY APPRECIATE both responses!! I’m going to get it going next week & order that part you post!! Thanks for making this video 🙏🏾

Reach out to us at westofthelakeclc@gmail.com

Hi, thanks for watching and reaching out. First thing to check is if the interior lights work with the doors closed. You do that by turning the headlight knob counterclockwise until it clicks. That activates the interior lights. If they work, your issue is with the light switch in the door frame. If they don’t work, you need to start checking at the fuse box and work your way out. Electrical issues are tricky, it can be anything from a blown fuse to a bad lamp. I’ve even seen all the lamps go out. A little patience and a 12 volt test light will help you solve the issue. Please let us know how it turns out!

I’ve never used them, I like www.rubbertherightway.com

Hi Duane, thanks for watching and getting in touch. I’ve never worked on a Seville of any type, although I think they are all beautiful classics. The power seats are all relatively the same. Spraying the mounting bolts and seeing a change in operation is leading me to a possible grounding issue. It’s possible the ground wire was hanging by a thread and is now separated completely. Easiest test is using a jumper ground screwed to the nearest mounting bolt for the motor and securing the other end to a body ground. If the seat moves, it a ground issue. If not, check all the connectors on the motor, relay and transmission. If those are tight, you’ve got to start at square one and pull the seat out of the car to test all the components. Let us know how it goes.

Yeah, the video could be a little clearer. Get a bolt that has the same thread as the locking ring that screws into the center of the hub (the big disc with the slots and the threaded bolt on the end). Tighten that so it acts like the telescoping lock is in place (but without the big disc getting in the way) and it will keep the column from pulling out. Good luck.

@@westofthelakecadillacclub ill try that ,so do you screw in the new bolt all the way down to the pin and that lock the upper part fromt coming out thanls

🤣🤣

Yes, that can be done. You will need to measure the size of the belt that you will need because it will not be listed as a part number AC was standard on all of those cars.

@@westofthelakecadillacclub thank you! I appreciate your content. Keep going, man.

It should be very similar. Thanks for watching.

Westofthelakeclc@gmail.com.

The horn trouble is likely a broken contact retainer. Check out my ignition cylinder replacement video, then search for a Corvette retainer for tilt wheel, it is the same as the Cadillac.