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should have learnt from this one ruclips.net/video/t8t8L2-ByP8/видео.html Damage not as bad this time!

Ouch, a proper good rattle! Enjoy the videos, thanks for sharing.

Used to run at about 80-psi but this new engine runs much higher, figuring it can't do any harm I've trashed big end bearings before through lack of oil

@@ianbeningfield Yes, the Triumph 1500 is renowned for that! Talking to a seasoned engine builder, he suggested very judiciously enlarging the centre main bearing feed. That main bearing feeds Nos 2 & 3 big ends and the main feed is the same diameter as the front and rear main feeds. They only have to deal with one big end each. I've not done it yet but apparently if done correctly it solves the problem.

@@innerpeace5913 I’ve read the same, when I had this engine built we talked about it but he didn’t go ahead. I’ve got this engine limited at 6400 so far no problems, a couple more events to go this season then I’ll pull the bottom end and see how things look

not enough grip!

1500 running on a 1300 cam with twin webbers

@@ianbeningfield nice. Have you had it on a dyno?

@@MegaBuckfast about 85 at the wheels/110 at the flywheel @ 6500, lots of torque all the way through the range,

@@ianbeningfield sweet. I’ve got a 1500 to rebuild once the bodywork is finished. If you’ve got any tips, I’d be really interested. Mine will be road use only though. Reliability and a bit more pep would be nice. 👍🏻

@@MegaBuckfast reliability wise oil cooler, additional oil feed to the head definitely worth doing, other than that the usual check the thrust washers for wear and that the end float on the crank is within limits. For a bit more guts a good 4-2-1 manifold to replace the original system and a fast road cam like the kent TH5 should give you a decent uplift in power without stressing the engine too much

new engine for 24 hopefully it'll sound even better this year

Thanks, engine is putting out about 90bhp at the flywheel,+60 overbore, fastroad cam, big valve ported head, skimmed to raise the compression ratio a little. Then to get the acceleration on the hills I run a ford type 9 gearbox with a long 1st & 2nd and 4.5 diff

Generally yes although the extreme's I'm running this year do need a bit of temperature before they really switch on and give grip & feel, not easy on a day like this

That was 42.32 on that run my new best

Thanks - I've developed the car over the last 10 years, its still road legal and used on the road, there's no single magic bullet but a few of the mods I'm running 1. Save weight - I've replaced all the wings, bonnet with fibreglass (also cut away the slam panel), bumpers, heater removed 2. Engine - ported head, fast road cam, balanced & lightened internals to up the rev limit, cold air feed, head skimmed to up CR, +60 overbore, electronic ignition 3. Diff has been changed to give better acceleration, currently running a 4.5, along with a ford type 9 gearbox which gives a longer 2nd & 3rd than the standard box 4. uprated suspension - lever arms replaced with adjustable shocks, stiffer springs, uprated anti roll bar, panhard rod and anti tramp bars

its the 1500 triumph fitted to the later rubber bumper models. Modified with a new cam, gas flowed head and taken out to +60

Typical luck every time the track begun to dry it rained again. Lots of offs, just about kept in on the black stuff, would be an amazing track to really push on in the dry. Need to persuade Bob to add to the calendar for next year

Made a custom bracket fitted to the roll hoop, that then had the standard gopro attachment for the camera. My new TF doesn't have the roll hoops so I;ve made something similar that attaches to the headrest

I'll sort the video of the engine letting go tomorrow, you can hear the screech of the tyres but he stopped just behind me so its not on camera unfortunately

+60 overbore, Fast road cam and a bit of work to the head

Cheers its actually a bit easier than it looks, you get a map beforehand and chance to walk the course, then as you go round you'll notice there are yellow cones lying down they tell you which side of the cones you need to be. Well worth a go lots of fun and you learn how far you can push on power oversteer before it goes wrong (with nothing to hit!)

MR2 has more aftermarket support, but mg is cheaper, engine is a bit flawed, so it evens out because of costs of maintenance/engine swap

@@szymontrojanowski7565 a biorac pod uwage samo zachowanie na zakretach?

@@jareknowak8712 MR2 dość neutralna, przyjemna, tfa jeszcze osobiście nie prowadziłem, ale z tego co ludzie mówią to lekko podsterowny, przewidywalny, podsterowność do skorygowania geometrią, sam szukam mg tf, ale mało popularne w kraju

@@szymontrojanowski7565 Dzieki! Wiosna w ogloszeniach byl ciemno szary TF z konca produkcji w bardzo ladnym stanie. Niestety 1.6L. Mysle ze jesli auto pod modyfikacje to nie musi byc perelka. Wystarczy prosta buda. TF jest okolo 100 kilo ciezsze niz MR2.

@@jareknowak8712 teraz wisi jeden Anglik w rozsądnej cenie i szary 1.6 w pieniądzach kompletnie oderwanych od rzeczywistości. A silnik część wymienna, na wyspach jest dobrze rozpracowane zamienianie brytyjskiej pomyłki na jedyną słuszną k serię z kraju kwitnącej wiśni. Ogólnie w Polsce najlepszą chyba opcją jest import z Niemiec, bo są tam w miarę popularne. Mgf też jest ciekawy, ale zawieszenie straszy. A różnicy w wadze defacto nigdy nie sprawdzałem, można przeżyć w momencie kiedy na aucie da się przyciąć nawet dwadzieścia tysięcy, ubezpieczenie jest za 300 złotych i są fabryczne hamulce ap racing.

full cage fitted, had mounting points for the harness welded to the floor and rear bulkhead, adding a harness bar this winter behind the seat to get a better angle for the belts for the HANS device

Thank you, Looks a great car.