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Well, if I put together my Dark Elves and Chaos on the same side, I can just about get there. I need to arrange something with the HKSW guys for a big game. There are several armies floating about, and they do like big games (but they usually do them in DBMM).

I'll do that, thanks for the suggestion. This particular video used photos done with a flash and they weren't honestly the best photos in some cases. I keep learning!

I've been looking at it, but I have a couple of things to do first. The main one is to get a better gaming table for home :) My current one is small, as you can see in this video. Having an 8x4 table in Hong Kong is tricky as space is at a premium. But I have a plan for that; give me a bit of time...

@@OnTheGamingTable then just place your gaming table on the wall and have magnetic units and terrain... woalaaaa problem with space solved :))

@@ondrejstepanek6597 Haha! There's a idea :)

Indeed - Livius seems to be completely outmatched by Chares and his Pontics. Perhaps Livius is a minor contender and Sulla is waiting until the crisis is ripe before riding in to the rescue. Roman politics at its finest ;-) In terms of game numbers, when your army is largely CR 3 (and not Warbands, who are able to get rear support, and +1 on the charge) going against an army that is largely CR 4, it's always going to be a tough day on the battlefield. The Romans have also been unable to really flank the Pontics at any point, so their opportunities have been quite limited. But again, it's warfare, not war-fair...

Thanks! Yes, they are good rules (thanks Mark for making them!), I like them a lot. And 2mm / 3mm is quick to put together and paint, even if you are just using craft materials (as some do) or basic 3D printing (as the forces I have made).

There are a lot out there, if you know where to look. Start with Iain's playlists: www.youtube.com/@iainmstanding/playlists And also, here's a recent one that came up on the Warmaster FB group: ruclips.net/video/pvp-Ip_nHp4/видео.htmlsi=1PsqO0qa7BnIyPCb Enjoy!

Thanks, you're welcome! More coming... I've just started painting another army. :)

@@OnTheGamingTable great.. i will be waiting :)

Nice! How do you make your 2mm figs?

​@@OnTheGamingTable Hi, it involves the use of DAS air dry modelling clay. 1. I roll a piece of clay to about 5mm thick and bigger than the size of the unit footprint (say 40mm by 15mm). 2. I use a tool to make indentations in the clay in ranks if Close order or spread out if skirmishes. 3. I then trim any excess to have a rectangle of clay measuring the footprint of the unit base. 4. Once it is completely dry I glue it to some mdf or card to give it strength and rigidity. 5. I take a piece of soft clay role it into a a sausage shape and press it into the mold I made earlier. 6. Once done the soft clay is peeled away carefully. 7. You then has a positive version of the mold with what look like soldiers in ranks. 8. Make a few indentations for when you make flags out of paper to press into those holes. 9. Once this is dry, glue it to mdf base or similar. 10. Once that is dry trim off any excess. 11. Spray the base matt black. 12. Paint the ground with greens browns etc, it does not matter if paint gets on the troops. 13. Get a broad brush and carefully hit the troops with the basic colours. 14. Finer work can be done with acrylic pens. 15. Tidy any bits up. 16. Matt varnish followed by some small amounts of gloss varnish in puddles and on the very tops of the troops. 17. Paint the front, left and right of the base in black. The rear of the base is painted a strong colour such as the classic red or blue, or anything else like red or white for troops in the middle ages. I am developing a marking system on the back edges of the base to donate the quality period and armament of the base. All the above is done with mass production methods and numbers to complete armies. Well you did ask how I do it. Perhaps I could send some pictures of finished results if you tell me how. Regards Lexi

Nice! I've read of similar methods before, but not with a mould. Feel free to send some pictures to onthegamingtable@gmail.com - thanks!

Thanks, good fun all round. I realized after we played there were a couple of rules I stated wrong. Biggest one was that stands (not units) are defended, so we should have been doing that stand-by-stand. But no change in the result ;)

@@OnTheGamingTable I think that in the rules it is stated you can play it either way. it is easier and quicker to play it on UNIT basis. And more realistic but more complex to play it on STAND basis.

Based on asking the WMR community (Discord / FB group), rules as written, it should be done on a STAND basis. I'm actually planning some little rules clarification videos soon...

The Chaos Warriors were odds on to beat the Crossbows in that first engagement of the infantry, but the Crossbows with only 9 attacks got I think 7 hits, and then 5 failed 4+ armour saves... Had that engagement taken normal course, the Warriors would have wiped most of that brigade and the Dark Elves would have been toast. Small points games like this, it often seems to come down to one significant engagement and then the outcome of the battle is clear.

@@OnTheGamingTable very true, good point!

CD is my top choice too. I've played CD ver2 and CD ver3 as well, and loved them both. Great games in any version, but I know everyone has their favourite :)

Nice idea for making units. Originally, before getting a 3D printer, I also thought about using clay to make units (as in Mark Backhouse's examples). I had a plan to use the tip of a ball point pen (closed, so it's a 'hole' at the end) to make the impressions for heads/helmets. There's lots of ways you can do it. I even found someone who uses spent teabags! revengeoftheiceni.wordpress.com/2017/09/14/2mm-ancient-madness/

Thanks, Iain, and will do. I'm alternating battles with the Strength & Honour campaign, so another WM campaign battle will come up next.

Hehe :)

The figures are 3D-printed at 10mm (scaled down from 15mm STL files). I chose that scale becuase I also do Warmaster (10mm) and can share the terrain (like the little houses and walls) between the two games. The figures/STLs are originally from here: www.thingiverse.com/waynemc65/designs (page 8 onwards has the WWII STL files) They are not highly detailed, but they look fine when painted.

Yep, there are other ways to do it. I'm lazy - want to find a way to do without angles and supports :)

Haha :) I like to have a lot of terrain on the table... quite a few different things you can have. I know Warmaster has a bit of a 'cavalry bias' but I feel that's 'managed' by having more terrain. As the Romans historically found in places like Numidia and Parthia (as an example) putting infantry up against cavalry on open ground is a receipe for heavy casualties, at best.

Thanks :)

The rules are good (IMO). They are also quite ammenable to solo play (IMO). I'd suggest you just have a go - make some cardboard units* and have a go! You'll find out what you like more by playing :) * Cut some card into unit bases and draw/color on some legions, warbands, etc. That's basically what I did after I first got the rules. Easy way to start!

Thanks - any tips you have from doing the campaigns, let us all know!

@@OnTheGamingTable The campaigns I did were map based, with a whole process of raising forces, giving orders and move armies on a map, then resolve battles using a wargame set of rules when two armies met. How I did that was greatly inspired by the book "The Solo Wargaming Guide". Now, I'm currently designing my own campaign rules, which I haven't tried yet, but hopefully before the end of the year I will.

Sweet! If you want a playtester, just let me know.

@@OnTheGamingTable Why not, I will let you know :)

@@OnTheGamingTable Hello sir! If you are still interested, I have finished the first draft of my campaign rules. I have not playtested it yet, but if you want to take a look... I'm not sure I can post a link here, and on top of that I would rather provide you a link allowing you to add comments. Is there a public address I can use to send you that?

Thank you! I like making the videos, although they usually take longer to do than playing the game :)

Well spotted, thanks! You are right, and I often forget that stands can only envelop if they aren't touching when in a battle line (and corner to corner counts as touching). No change to the result there, though - the Dark Riders still died easily enough without needing to have a blocked retreat.

Yep, I can do one of them. The rules in the book look like fun. I'll tee it up for some stage soon.

Glad you enjoyed it

They are from my head, and I haven't put them in a document online yet. Just trying to keep it simple and playtest it out a bit, and I will write it up a little later.

Yep, that would work too. I used white glue/PVA from a dropper because I didn't have a decent place at the time to do spraying. Also, I don't like the sprays much because of the spray pollutants (BMHCA, VOCs, and so on) and over-spray. White glue/PVA glue isn't perfect, but for me it's preferrable :)

​@@OnTheGamingTableyou make a valid point regarding pollutants.

Thank you :)

Happy to know I’m helping 😊

It's still going :) It's an older game but a good one (IMO). And personally, I prefer this level (about a battalion-plus, with platoons as the smallest unit) to games that are 1:1. Mainly, this is because 1:1 games remove the 'reach' of units to keep the game on a 'reasonably-sized table'. With CD TOB, even on this small table, you can still have a game where things are more 'authentic'.

@@OnTheGamingTable A buddy of mine and I did Hafid Ridge over 12yrs ago on a 6x6 in 15mm...that was awesome. We tackles some 1941 Eastern Front before he moved out of the area. Before he moved, we were looking at 6mm for ToB. I had the rules which he asked for, so I gave them to him.

Yeah, I've played Command Decision since CD 2 (but not since 2003, until now). Just a matter of not having the gaming space and figures while living in different places in Asia. But now, having a 3D printer means I can do what I like again :) even if my table is currently small... will change that soon, though!

Thanks for the tips about cleaning. I put it in the wash machine for 4 mins and take it out straight after to air dry on paper towel. For the bases, I was a little early in my comment…. They did curl a little, but not as much as before. I might experiment with the layer exposures for that. I wonder if the first few layers having longer exposure is part of the cause. If changed for all layers the same (just printing a plate of bases) maybe that can help.

@@OnTheGamingTable Hmm, interesting. I think the base curling occurs because the resin shrinks slightly when being cured, and either because of the longer exposure time or due to contact with the steel surface the bottom-most layers shrink a different amount (and/or hold a different amount of pre-stress) than subsequent layers. It might also be a temperature thing if the bottom layers were colder when they were cured (as the heat of the UV lamp warms up the screen and resin as the print progresses). Not really sure, I figure it's something like that.

Yes, I figure it's something along those lines too. I'll play around with it when I am back home (middle of the week) and see what I can work out.

I did an exposure test and from that the results were about the same as my prior settings. BUT as you can see from my “channel update” video, on closer inspection there are more layer issues in the prints. I believe (a little research) that I need to increase the exposure time a bit to head off that issue. I will test when I’m back home again next week and see how I go with some new settings.

Agree! :)

Hi - thanks for the comment, and you are correct! I forgot about the 'only if in physical contact' part of the rule. Thanks for pointing it out!

You're welcome! As mentioned, there are other resources like this online, but they tend to be longer. Hence why I tried to make these more bite-sized offerings.

You're welcome! Trying to get another small game up on here soon.

Yep, it essentially turned into who could take advantage of the flank collapse the fastest. The Pontics got unlucky with the early rout of the cavalry on their left flank, but the Pontics then played their own right flank advantage pretty well. It was interesting just watching/helping the two players and seeing them look at their choices and make their decisions.

Thanks, will do!

Thanks :)

Thanks for the comment. I've not seen "Triumph!" but I have played a couple of games of Art de la Guerre, which again is some kind of DBA/DBM descendent. More S&H coming soon! I'm running the Battle of Chaeronea (First Mithridatic War) at the local club this Saturday. I'll put up an after-action video report over the weekend.

Great! Looking forward to it!

Haha - I would prefer that too, but I am still building up my armies at the moment. And I need a bigger table... I've done one 4,000 point battle before (many years ago) and it was a blast!

Yes, they are 3D printed. This is where I got the STL. cults3d.com/en/users/PorbleGames/3d-models

Thanks, appreciated! More soon (diverting into the First Mithridatic War today).

You're welcome! More coming soon.

Actually, I haven't yet made a document but was planning to. I'll try to get onto it in the next couple of days and perhaps ask to put on the WMR FB group?

Would like to try the rules with aome of my DBA/HoTT armies

yep, they will work (generally speaking). FYI, the rules doc (v1.00) is on the Warmaster Revolution FB group. facebook.com/groups/185937199904/files/files

Sorry you do mention prep fire later in the presentation

Thanks Stephen - you are right about Prep Fire. I was working off the GRC document from the CD TOB resources (I didn't have my rule book with me while making the video) and as you say Prep Fire in that doc is part of the Movement Phase. Good note about the "no +1 ROF as this is not Opp Fire". I think I forgot about that. Anyway, play and learn!

I found prep fire in some of your later videos. By the way the videos are great. I've just started introducing CDToB to a new gaming group. They (and a lot of players) find it really intimidating at first. I think CD is essentially a very simple game. I've pointed them to your set of videos to help them. Keep it up!

Thanks, will do! Hosting a game for a different system next weekend, so prepping for that. But more CD TOB games coming soon!

You're welcome! More coming... working on some terrain today.