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Im moving to Colorado and will need to block heat my 2019 2500 duramax the unfortunate thing is im moving into an apartment complex so im trying to figure out where to park and plug in

Update?

Stop lying no one cares

Damn son

Man lots of good info here.

Photos of the swap: ruclips.net/video/_PBUbcdfBlc/видео.htmlsi=vfzEPFxvfPapxtaR

GS -> GS-T: To turbo an NA 4G63, the least you need is the exhaust, manifold, turbo, intercooler and piping, BOV, and an SAFC, but you can and probably should go as far as adding a turbo ecu (with extra wires), knock sensor, turbo MAF, injectors, fuel pump, turbo oil pan, turbo intake cam, FPR, and turbo pistons. This all depends on your future intentions for the car, if you do a very basic install with NA pistons, NA ECU, and an SAFC, you can handle roughly 8psi without breaking things and should set the BOV accordingly. If you plan on modifying the car to be similar to a more heavily modified DSM you'll definitely need the stronger turbo pistons, knock sensor, and other components listed above including fuel and you'll have to remember that the NA blocks do not have oil squirters so you should really only go to around 14psi max. If you install a turbo ecu you will have to manually wire both the knock sensor (the NA block is already tapped for the sensor) and the MAF up using the diagram to adhere the wires to the correct pin locations on the connector (use turbo maf connector and manually run extra wire to correct spot on ecu). You can drill into your NA oil pan and fabricate a connection for the oil return or simply source a turbo oil pan for this. For anyone just wanting low boost on their DSM, it is actually very easy to do a GS-T conversion all things considered. GS-T -> GSX: Firstly the only piece of sheet metal that needs to be modified is the floor pan in the trunk which is not all that bad you can just cut out the well for the spare tire and put in a new flat piece in its place. You can get a rear end from an AWD and cut the mounts off of the AWD car and put them on your swap or make your own mounts which would give you the option of using a straight axle out of a ford or something if you so desired. You can make a crossmember that welds into the rear frame rails and floor pan since the rear subframe mounts are already there. Now, you can cut the AWD fuel tank mounts out and install them on your Swap or fabricate your own. The rear driveshaft mount can be cut out of an AWD but it is not difficult to fabricate one of your own. After you cut the front driveshaft mounts out of an AWD, including the very front crossmember mounts, all that's left is putting in the AWD front cross member, spindles, and steering half shaft. In other words, most everything can be sourced directly from an AWD donor, including the x-member mounts, rear driveshaft mounts, and trunk floor, or you can fabricate your own. Most of this job is literally directly transplanting the center diff/carrier bearing mounts and then fabricating simple mounts for the rear. There's no need to cut a tunnel for the driveshaft and you can make a one piece driveshaft work. Didn't even have to relocate shock mounts. Ford straight 8.8" and 9" axles with 3.55 gears are close enough to the 3.545 ratio DSMs have and they have been used in several awd swaps handling over 800hp unlike the stock rear suspension. The '95+ explorer 8.8s are equipped with a 3.55 gear ratio, 31spline axles, lsd, disc breaks, and it's 1.75" wider than the track width on a DSM, whereas the 8.8s from a ranger and fox are closer to the same width as a stock DSM. I'd like to extend a formal F-U to everyone that said it's not possible. I'll be doing the same conversion on a 2G more in depth, subscribe to follow!

I really want to go to a db2 pump I just not sure how to do the whole transmission controller thing

I reccomend adding a lift pump because the quality of diesel nowadays, especially depending on where you're located, varies a lot. Yes, adding an air dog could be considered a way of making a 12V more "complicated", but it beats blindly trusting the diesel coming out of the pumps these days. That's just my opinion after having seen trucks with the same religious maintenance as mine lose injectors/pumps long before mine have; the only conclusion I can come to is the diesel in the states in which those trucks reside just isn't what it used to be.

Do you need 2 or 4 exhaust clamps?

Where do you buy the connectors for the lights? I can’t find them anywhere

Can blown head gaskets cause it to run rough

What is the best form for these trucks?

I'm just here for those 8 lug heavy wheels and those Interco Trxxus tires.... how are those tires in the snow, I've heard they're pretty damn good. I've got a 6" lifted 97 GMC RCSB K1500, currently on 15x10 polished Pro Comp 69's and 35x12.5 Patagonias, but have always digged the look of those wheels and tires

A family relative had a bulletproof tahoe, the early 2000s model, and i was alway uncomfortable riding in cause i cant get the thought of getting trapped in it out of.my head, if something goes wrong.

what do you do if you have a electric injection pump and you put the manual injection pump. Do you have to do any upgrades to the 4160e transmission to work?

What about installing a Fluidamper balancer and a solid crank pulley?

This is the best one on RUclips

How did you do the temporary muffler pipe since the inlet and outlet are not straight through?

Ever notice these guys with diesel engines can' t shut the fuck up on their dude brah bullshit for 5 minutes. Yeah I don't care about all that "OMG brahs what I'am gonna do"

So Im fixin a 2000 Outback Impreza. She needed it done, like rite away. 200K mi car. Rusty. The bearing went... Months ago? and she drove on the races for miles. She shoulda towed it in. Man what a loud racket that must have been.

Hell yeah bro thanks life saver for working on my 1g talon tsi! Mine just went out with my battery too

Does the kit come with instructions

Do you not have vacuum boost brakes

Starting with a 454 gives you the advantage of not having to swap or modify the ac/heater hoses and windshield washer reservoir like you would if your truck had the 6.5l. However, already having a diesel cluster arguably makes it easier to get your tach to work since you don't have to utilize a Dakota digital tachometer conversion box to convert the signal from your alternator to be readable by the gas cluster. You can also add a W terminal to the stock denso dodge alternator and hook it up directly to a diesel version cluster that also already has the wait to start light, but the reading won't be entirely accurate. To hook up the speedometer and US-Shift trans controller, find the two pairs of braided wires (purple/white and green/black) coming from the transfer case output shaft (on 4wds, on 2wd it's on left rear of trans), splice them into the US Shift without disconnecting them from the vehicle speed sensor buffer so as to not interfere with ABS, and then take the speedometer output from the US Shift and connect that to the dark green wire (#14) going to the speedo on your cluster, making sure to disconnect it from the VSSB. After removing the 454 and its motor mounts, cut the bottom lip portion of the motor mount area off on each side and drill the 1/2-9/16 holes in the exact spots for the conversion motor mounts (1.1" right from center of existing top left mount hole, 2.73" down). You will also need to cut off two small "support" bars near the core support (they make a v shape directly in front of the motor mounts) as well as replace the top bolts in your front diff with recessed ones that will allow for more room (not required with 6 inch lift or if 2wd). The lip between the trans tunnel/bottom of the firewall will need to be beat back with a hammer if you are not using a significantly sized body lift. Save both the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor from the old motor (if 454, there are two coolant temp sensors, the one you need is the one for the gauge cluster which has only one wire going to it) to install on the 12V with adapters that allow them to screw into existing tapped holes on the block. The coolant temp sensor can be installed on the front of the block where the vent tube for the p-pump used to go with a 1/2" MPT male thread to 3/8" MPT female thread bushing if you're using a high mount ac kit and smaller thermostat that doesn't require the vent tube (vertical water outlet). The oil pressure sensor can be installed on the Cummins block with a 1/8" male MPT to 1/4" MPT female adapter between the p-pump and motor mount where there is an existing tap into oil passage or on top of the oil filter housing. If using the old 4l80e, the transmission crossmember needs to be moved backwards roughly 1.5-2 inches due to the additional length of the motor and you will need to use the correct flex plate/adapter as well as a US-Shift trans controller. Obviously, since the transmission moves back the rear driveshaft needs to be shortened and if you have 4wd the front needs to be lengthened. The old throttle pedal cable and cruise control can be modified to connect directly to the cummins throttle linkage. Some people throw on the work truck grill with thinner lights beneath the upper headlights that allow for the intercooler piping to snake through, but it is not all that difficult to modify the stock turn/marker lights by cutting them down to a thinner depth and reinstalling the bulbs. A stock dodge radiator hose can be bent and adapted to the upper radiator with rubber 90° elbows. The old ac condenser can be utilized directly behind the FMIC if you build some mounting brackets and clear the core support a bit for the lines. The bottom of the hood latch support needs to be cut off and reinforced differently while the radiator mounts on top are slightly relocated from the original position in order to move the radiator and allow more room up front. The intercooler piping should come out of the turbo into the passenger fender well, through the front core support (hole must be cut), into the FMIC, back through the same area on the drivers side of the core support, using nothing but 45 and 90 mandrel bends and one 180 u bend 3" exhaust tubing. Coming from the turbo on the passenger side, the piping can be ran by staring with a 90, going into two 45's, then another 90 directly into the intercooler. From the intercooler, it starts with a 180 u bend, then goes to a 90 mandrel bend, straight up to the stock cummins intercooler pipe just before the intake. The top half of the dodge fan shroud can be utilized behind the radiator, but the bottom half will not fit. Hook up your fuel, ac/heater lines, 12v in, run, fuel shutoff, and start to your ignition/batteries/relays accordingly and enjoy your new truck!

Starting with a 454 gives you the advantage of not having to swap or modify the ac/heater hoses and windshield washer reservoir like you would if your truck had the 6.5l. However, already having a diesel cluster arguably makes it easier to get your tach to work since you don't have to utilize a Dakota digital tachometer conversion box to convert the signal from your alternator to be readable by the gas cluster. You can also add a W terminal to the stock denso dodge alternator and hook it up directly to a diesel version cluster that also already has the wait to start light, but the reading won't be entirely accurate. To hook up the speedometer and US-Shift trans controller, find the two pairs of braided wires (purple/white and green/black) coming from the transfer case output shaft (on 4wds, on 2wd it's on left rear of trans), splice them into the US Shift without disconnecting them from the vehicle speed sensor buffer so as to not interfere with ABS, and then take the speedometer output from the US Shift and connect that to the dark green wire (#14) going to the speedo on your cluster, making sure to disconnect it from the VSSB. After removing the 454 and its motor mounts, cut the bottom lip portion of the motor mount area off on each side and drill the 1/2-9/16 holes in the exact spots for the conversion motor mounts (1.1" right from center of existing top left mount hole, 2.73" down). You will also need to cut off two small "support" bars near the core support (they make a v shape directly in front of the motor mounts) as well as replace the top bolts in your front diff with recessed ones that will allow for more room (not required with 6 inch lift or if 2wd). The lip between the trans tunnel/bottom of the firewall will need to be beat back with a hammer if you are not using a significantly sized body lift. Save both the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor from the old motor (if 454, there are two coolant temp sensors, the one you need is the one for the gauge cluster which has only one wire going to it) to install on the 12V with adapters that allow them to screw into existing tapped holes on the block. The coolant temp sensor can be installed on the front of the block where the vent tube for the p-pump used to go with a 1/2" MPT male thread to 3/8" MPT female thread bushing if you're using a high mount ac kit and smaller thermostat that doesn't require the vent tube (vertical water outlet). The oil pressure sensor can be installed on the Cummins block with a 1/8" male MPT to 1/4" MPT female adapter between the p-pump and motor mount where there is an existing tap into oil passage or on top of the oil filter housing. If using the old 4l80e, the transmission crossmember needs to be moved backwards roughly 1.5-2 inches due to the additional length of the motor and you will need to use the correct flex plate/adapter as well as a US-Shift trans controller. Obviously, since the transmission moves back the rear driveshaft needs to be shortened and if you have 4wd the front needs to be lengthened. The old throttle pedal cable and cruise control can be modified to connect directly to the cummins throttle linkage. Some people throw on the work truck grill with thinner lights beneath the upper headlights that allow for the intercooler piping to snake through, but it is not all that difficult to modify the stock turn/marker lights by cutting them down to a thinner depth and reinstalling the bulbs. A stock dodge radiator hose can be bent and adapted to the upper radiator with rubber 90° elbows. The old ac condenser can be utilized directly behind the FMIC if you build some mounting brackets and clear the core support a bit for the lines. The bottom of the hood latch support needs to be cut off and reinforced differently while the radiator mounts on top are slightly relocated from the original position in order to move the radiator and allow more room up front. The intercooler piping should come out of the turbo into the passenger fender well, through the front core support (hole must be cut), into the FMIC, back through the same area on the drivers side of the core support, using nothing but 45 and 90 mandrel bends and one 180 u bend 3" exhaust tubing. Coming from the turbo on the passenger side, the piping can be ran by staring with a 90, going into two 45's, then another 90 directly into the intercooler. From the intercooler, it starts with a 180 u bend, then goes to a 90 mandrel bend, straight up to the stock cummins intercooler pipe just before the intake. The top half of the dodge fan shroud can be utilized behind the radiator, but the bottom half will not fit. Hook up your fuel, ac/heater lines, 12v in, run, fuel shutoff, and start to your ignition/batteries/relays accordingly and enjoy your new truck!

Good write up in the description! 👍

Not as "bolt on" as the 2G swap (which is still not technically entirely bolt on at all), but not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Measure meticulously and you don't have alignment issues.

yeaah buddy!😎🤘🤘

Would this bolt up to the GM NV4500? I would love to swap or buy a truck with a 6.5 as it will be my first diesel ever. But i dont know much about them and giving how you explained and showed parts that makes it less reliant on electronics and smog stuff it makes me more confident to get one.

I'm a big 6.2 and 6.5 fan. They are great platforms. Awesome video, thanks for sharing.

To turbo an NA 4G63, the least you need is the exhaust, manifold, turbo, intercooler and piping, BOV, and an SAFC, but you can and probably should go as far as adding a turbo ecu (with extra wires), knock sensor, turbo MAF, injectors, fuel pump, turbo oil pan, turbo intake cam, FPR, and turbo pistons. This all depends on your future intentions for the car, if you do a very basic install with NA pistons, NA ECU, and an SAFC, you can handle roughly 8psi without breaking things and should set the BOV accordingly. If you plan on modifying the car to be similar to a more heavily modified DSM you'll definitely need the stronger turbo pistons, knock sensor, and other components listed above including fuel and you'll have to remember that the NA blocks do not have oil squirters so you should really only go to around 14psi max. If you install a turbo ecu you will have to manually wire both the knock sensor (the block is already tapped for the sensor) and the MAF up using the diagram to adhere the wires to the correct pin locations on the connector. You can drill into your NA oil pan and fabricate a connection for the oil return or simply source a turbo oil pan for this. For anyone just wanting low boost on their DSM, it is actually very easy to do a GS-T conversion all things considered. After you have gone from GS to GS-T, all that's left is to go from GS-T to GSX and then you've got yourself a real gem!

I had recently done the rear wheel bearing. Watched several videos I wished that I had seen this one first. You explained the process and the seal orientation with the number's better than anyone else's video that had watched. Great job.

I had a fts lift kit in my truck was forced to take it out after buying it like that i was charged alot for it it wasnt done right dont what to dp

I personally know of 3 cars that have had this swap done, one by RRE, and two by random individuals. Firstly the only piece of sheet metal that needs to be modified is the floor pan in the trunk which is not all that bad you can just cut out the well for the spare tire and put in a new flat piece in its place. You can get a rear end from an AWD and cut the mounts off of the AWD car and put them on your swap or make your own mounts which would give you the option of using a straight axle out of a ford or something if you so desired. You can make a crossmember that welds into the rear frame rails and floor pan since the rear subframe mounts are already there. Now, you can cut the AWD fuel tank mounts out and install them on your Swap or fabricate your own. The rear driveshaft mount can be cut out of an AWD but it is not difficult to fabricate one of your own. After you cut the front driveshaft mounts out of an AWD, including the very front crossmember mounts, all that's left is putting in the AWD front cross member, spindles, and steering half shaft. In other words, most everything can be sourced directly from an AWD donor, including the x-member mounts, rear driveshaft mounts, and trunk floor, or you can fabricate your own. THIS HAS BEEN DONE BY 3+ PEOPLE, IT IS POSSIBLE!

Can you show how to do this with the front wheel bearing?

short and to the point. great video, i cant stand a video that is 20 minutes long only needs to be a few minutes. just bought a "low mile"(124k) lbz and i want it to last the rest of my life.

I thinking about doing a g30 van build. Please do more videos on your 6.5 cause i NEED someone to copy. Keep up the good work, man

You didn’t have to unbolt the original one? I thought it was held down by a 10mm bolt.

How many volts do you need to charge it?

2 outer and 1 inner? Im stuck because the diagram on Subaru is kinda confusing.. help!? 😂

Jumped my 96 fuel solenoid wrong, can't find fuse, please help

Are the front and rear wheel bearing/ hub assembly the same? When looking for replacements I tend to only come across fronts

Doing the same to my 1991 eclipse. All the old bulbs are burning out so going to have them match my stereo but im having a hard time finding all the other bulbs to the dash like the twist knobs and such

Do know if this kit will fit on my 3500 lbz classic if I change ubolts to 3500 ublots for 3500 leaf springs?

Oh yeah it sounds better

Nice thing with a non electronic pump? It will work even after EMP & WW-III

I had done all these except for the mechanical pump and battery top posts. After those fixes a huge tree fell on the cab of my much loved 95 Silverado 2500 4x4....😢

How did you drop the axle to install the blocks if the diff was supported by the jack stand or did you jack up the truck after you took off the U bolts from leaf spring? I’m having trouble w mine can’t figure it out bc my jack stands aren’t very much help wish I had a lift

Nice quick video, straight to the point 👍