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Hi can you explain this a little more? I didn't understand what you should pull away to find a bolt that we can use as a ground. Pull away the whole fuse box?

@@KONIXMUSIC there were plastic tabs on the top and bottom of the fuse box which if you pull them away from it getting the lid off is a lot easier (hope that explains it a bit better). As for the bolt, when you remove the air bag panel looking into that space you should see a silver bolt which helps attach the dashboard by the looks out things, used this rather than the screw method suggested (used a similar bolt in a pervious car so know it doesn't cause problems)

@@picpeeker Thanks a bunch! About to get a thinkware and do the wiring job. these are important details 😀

Same here. Opened it up, vacuumed it and put it back together and still no joy. I've had mine for 4 years.

I have two units with same issue (dessicant wheel not rotating) - is there an equivalent replacement part that can be fitted to fix this? Thanks very much! :)

Andy McKenna if it is the CLUTCHED synchronised motor that seem to be the most common fault then I have no idea where to get the parts, eb*y dosent seem to have anyone selling them, not even china!. It is a clockwise clutched (one way) motor. It has a built in clutch which prevents the synchronous motor from randomly spinning on whichever direction (if you have a look at the microwave oven tray, notice how sometimes the plate spin clockwise and sometimes anticlockwise, depending when you switch it on-something to do with mains sine wave etc etc bla bla bla, those are non clutched synchronised motor - these are available to buy everywhere). I am not sure if the dessicant ment to work if it were spinning the wrong way if you use the non clutched motor because the heating element and the cooling element is not symmetrical on the disc. It needs to be heated then cool down to absorb moisture? Not the other way around. Anyone out there who manage to purchase these replacement motor can you spam around these comment to help everyone? Hate the mfg who knows it were designed to die after 1-2 yrs

MK C thank you very much! I have had some success bringing one of my two faulty units back to life (temporarily probably) - by greasing the spindle faces of the dessicant wheel, it’s stopped cutting out (assume the motor still has a bit of life in it!). :)

Hi MK, thank you. I have the red light cutout happening too very quickly at all modes and the funny thing is the only way to stop machine with red light is to turn power off. I can see the internal wheel spinning albet at a slower rate while the hot air blows at normal speed. Any clues ? Do you have any videos how to open unit to at least grease and get a few months out of it ? Thanks in advance.

@@BJAJ2005 Hi, on mine and as same shown in this video, when it cuts out, it do not show any red led. It only show red led when the water tray is removed. The other red led prob means some other more serious error? I have so far not seen the other red led lights up on my unit, only the one when I remove the water collection tray. What do you mean by spinning at slower rate? On mine when its working properly, the dessicant wheel spin at constant speed, if it start stop then prob the mechanism for spinning it is on its way out. !!!DO NOT APPLY GREASE or LUBRICATION!!! The reason is the dessicant disc will get hot during operation and might melt the grease onto the disc and catch fire when it rotate past the heating elemet. Thats why the inside of the unit has no lubrication, just mechanical sliding. There is 6 screws to remove to open the unit, two at bottom of unit, two is visible when you pull the filter out, and two hidden behind the top handle (you need to push the wee tab to drag the handle out). Please be careful with mains power!! Be careful when putting the unit together and make sure no wires are pinched.

cintaman500 same thing has happened to mine. Destroyed floorboards as was leaking for days. Would love to know if you end up fixing yours. I’ve been using it now with drainage hose and not leaking bug would like to be able to use it without a bucket!

@@eimearmorris1120 unplugged mine left it for few days then decided to put a towel under it and continue to use as ceramic floor , no more leaks !! I put it down to being not level ,anyway it works as it should now thank fully

cintaman500 hmmmm. Interesting! As same thing will happen with me. It will leak. I’ll move it.. and it mightn’t leak again for a few days but will always inevitably leak again :(

@@eimearmorris1120 mine still not leaking and working better now than it was , how strange but it sat on a towel still but no leaks

chris tayler are you kidding? :)

@@eimearmorris1120 no worked for me

C Taylor Thanks for this tip. It’s working!

I've just taken mine apart and it's in a million bits, wish I'd tried this first ha

Hi, 90% of the time it is the one way synchorous motor that is worn or dead which cause the overheating protection to kick in and stop it. If you manage to find a replacement, let us all know pls!

@@mymushrooms Thanks, although I replaced mine with a Meaco

Martin Film No, I now have 2 faulty units, with slightly different faults but the fault doesn't appear to be on the circuit board as the fault doesn't move when I swap the boards around. So I bought the simple version of the same unit, which at the moment seems to be holding up. When I do eventually get round to fault finding I will post the answer, just too many other things to do that are more urgent taking up all my time

Mine has now had a full stripdown, another video to post shortly but it still isn't fixed. I have also bought another one so I can compare a working one with this one. Currently I think it is a logic board fault but no time to take it apart at the moment. Case ongoing

Probably too late, have you tried looking into the synchronous motor (the wee motor) that spin the dessicant disc? It has a habit of wearing down the shaft due to incorrect loading on the bushing causing the motor to “mysteriously” stop spinning the dessicant disc causing overheating and hence the unit stop working. And sometimes it keep working after you bang at it because you manage to release the stuck motor...untill it become stuck again...

@@mymushrooms just stopped mine down and this seems to be the issue it should run at 4/5rpm but it's not moving. Next step, try and source a replacement and work out how to wrie it in!

G A It seems to be a one way synchoronous motor (similar to the one use for spinning the microwave dish) but it one way CCW? It dosent matter how it is wired, the gear mechanism inside the sync motor will prevent it from spinning the wrong way, the problem is finding these motor. It is easy to find replacement stnc motor that can spin both direction but ones that only spin one way is a bit tricky (i havent found one yet). Let us know if you manage.

@@mymushrooms yep. My issue is that even the supplier of the original doesn't list an am-05. I have seen similar ones on the likes of banggood but the shaft doesn't have the circlip cut out, only grub screw holes (i may try hacking). I don't think the 2 way option is an issue as I believe this depends on which way it is wired into the power supply.

David Couzens Thanks for your comment, the water tank is empty in the video. It seems to have good days and bad days - this was a particularly bad day. I have since taken it to bits, so another video showing the insides to come shortly.

I haven't got round to looking at it yet. Sometimes it runs ok, and others it randomly stops. It doesn't matter what setting it is on, so I am suspecting a power supply related problem. Next step would be to monitor the power supply output voltages to see if they dip just before it turns off. At some point it will annoy me enough to strip it down, and I will post the fix - assuming I can fix it.

The three bolts were just cut from a long length of threaded bar, but cutting the heads of bolts will work just as well. The clutch plate was centered by the tried and tested "masking tape around a socket extension" method. Good luck with yours.

It does take some finding, but from what I found, the self adjusting clutch maintains constant pressure on the clutch plate and the pedal throughout the serviceable life by automatically adjusting for clutch wear. You need the special tool because generally the self adjusting mechanism is one way only, and if you accidentally "adjust it" whilst fitting it, there may not be a way to un-adjust it.

The clutch plate was centered by the tried and tested "masking tape around a socket extension" method. The clutch assembly can be held with finger-tight bolts allowing the clutch plate to be centered before you finally tighten everything down with the tool.

The tool worked fine, I was intending to video the installation but I was tight for space and time and I didnt manage to get the camera under the car with me to video replacing the clutch. 20,000 miles now covered on that clutch and its absolutely fine. The clutch plate was centered by the tried and tested "masking tape around a socket extension" method. The clutch assembly can be held with finger-tight bolts allowing the clutch plate to be centered before you finally tighten everything down with the tool

The tool worked fine, I was intending to video the installation but I was tight for space and time and I didnt manage to get the camera under the car with me to video replacing the clutch. 20,000 miles now covered on that clutch and its absolutely fine.