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Factory made tower?

why the haloween soundtrack?

Nicely done. I am looking at buying a used Ameritron AL-1200. And thanks to you I can use your video as a reference to see what if anything has been changed. 73,

Wow, I have had the same misfortune happen to me just recently. I have several questions I would like to ask you. Is it possible we can communicate personally ? 73 KG0CA

All talk, would have loved to hear it on the air.

one useless damn video!!! wv8ez

Took me 2 and a half hours but it worked and I can brake like normal. This video was pretty terrible. I did it without removing the steering column and it only cost me around $100. When I was braking, it was hard to push and I could hear a vacuum leak when I pressed the brakes so it was obvious. I tested both the new and old using my lungs and found that my booster was not holding vacuum. There is a snap that holds the pedal to the booster. Look here to easily understand how to remove it. blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/need-some-help-brake-switch-retainer-clip-89538/ Take off all the other booster bolts except the one hiding behind the steering column. Rig the booster to pull out with bungees or have someone lift out a bit as you unbolt the last one. That way you don't unbolt it part way and run out of space bc the nut pushes on the socket. Make sure you reconnect the brake fluid parallel lines before fully tightening the master cylinder to the booster or it is difficult. Some people don't remove it at all but whatever I did. You may want to add some blue locktite to the booster bolts. If you don't already realize, move the driver's seat back. I tried for a couple seconds before I did. Good luck!

Found your video very useful in troubleshooting my brake booster issue in our backup vehicle(96 Blazer).

Your friend seems to have microphone shyness. Good video. 73 KB8AMZ

Good video. Thanks for sharing. Best 73 KB8AMZ

Great info ... but a diagram would be better ,,, de W3LES

Thnx bro I'll try it in my c1500 97 , it's some problem

This video was ridiculous but it gets the point across in full. Anyone who is too impatient to watch a 30 min video to save themselves a few hundred bucks should just line up to bend over at the local dealer. Thanks for taking the time to make the video for us, I'm sure it slowed your work down. The content is free so don't complain that is doesn't have a narrator and fancy editing... lol

Thank you for the video. I have the same antenna and need to take it apart. Did you pull the motor and coil out? Near the center of my mast there are two screws and about 6 rivets. Did you drill out the rivets? Can you tell me how you took yours apart? Thank you, 73 - Rich, K0PIR

I was hoping ther was a trick to easily get those upper bolts out. Oh well, .Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was very helpfull.

was gonna give you a hard time because you were all over the place with the camera, and it was aggravating as hell trying to watch, but thanks for trying man, it was pretty helpful

very useful thank you so much for posting

very insightful,now I know how much work it's going to take to replace mine. thanks....

Que Pasa, Nelson!

AWESOME. great vidio ...thank you sir...very helpfull.

trouble shootreplaced power brake booster 96 tahoe brakes keep tightening up

i have the exact same symptoms of what he said on the video does that mean my brake booster is bad or could it be something else

I have a 99 blazer with anti brake system can I change the booster myself or do I need a calibrated machine

I've got the new booster in my 97 S-10 finally. I had to removed a lot of dash components to get more space to get to the 4 nuts inside the firewall. The upper 2 were really tough. Couple of tips to those who are planning on doing this. First of all I used a slightly larger 5/8 inch spark plug socket & a swivel socket wrench with 3 extensions & had a slight tilt from being able to get a straight shot on the nut. So the larger 5/8" socket allowed just enough give to still work at an angle to remove the nut. The upper left nut I used a 5/8 " open end wrench and kept flipping it around to turn the nut about quarter of a turn per position before flipping the wrench around to get another bite. I also had to use the closed end of the wrench every 3rd position to turn it just enough to get another bite with the open end. 15mm is the size which I had to use in combo with the 5/8 to get the upper left back on because I could not get the bit I needed with the open end of the 5/8 without using the closed end of the 15mm to turn it just a bit more. The bottom 2 are not too bad at all. Reinstalling I placed 2 big nuts acting as spacers over the new booster bolts on the upper left and right so as I didn't have to turn the nut so many times to get it tightened which made reinstalling much faster and easier. I have large hand & could just barely get my fingers up to the upper bolts to get the nuts started but as long as I pulled the brake pedal up far as it would go I could get to the bolts. I had to take a little screw out that held the wiring harness right beside the upper left side of brake pedal in order to get the pedal up far enough for my hand to tip the bolts. Anyways, hope this helps someone else out what has a 97 S-10. I was ready to drop the steering column but it's not necessary if you do what I said. I had old booster out and new one in in around 3 hours. Now I have to put the dash back together & the little clip on the rod & bleed my brakes & hope & pray I did not get a bad booster.

this was just a show and tell for parts removed. neither removal or installation was shown, yet somehow it took a half hour to tell us about clips and such. this video should have been 10min tops WITH removsl/installation

Good video. I just wanted to add that the leak you saw was most likely from your master cylinder not the brake booster. There's a piston in the master cylinder that is operated by the booster. If the seal for that piston goes bad then that causes your leak. Replace the master cylinder or get it rebuilt. Don't forget to bench bleed it before reinstalling.

3 minutes explaining a clip?

Thanks for posting. I have a 97 S-10 4 cyl 5 speed. Lately, I've been noticing the engine idle drops a lot when I let off the brakes. Last weekend I had to put new brake pads (originals had 91,300 miles, yes, I'm easy on brakes) and today when I went out in it I started hearing a hissing noise, very slight at first but audible. After a few miles of driving the noise got much louder. I parked it in the garage and let it idle and when I pressed the brake the engine idle would go up to normal, but when I released brake the truck would almost stall & die. My dad told me it could be a vacuum hose running to the brake booster but since it got that much worse that fast I'm thinking it's a rupture in the disphram inside the booster. How can I know for sure it's not just a vacuum hose? I hate buying and going through the work of replacing it if it's just a vacuum hose. Any help will be appreciated.

Know wonder he never catches the Pink panther.

Thanks

ok I TRY MY BEST SORRY ABOUT MY FAST TALK IN THE VIDEO WAS COLD 30 F AND NOT ABLE TO KEEP MY VIDEO CAMERA ON AND DO THE WORK . I DID MY BEST HOPING IT WILL SOME ONE . TAKER ALL . CHEEERS . WE TRY OK ,

Does this guy double as the Swedish Chef? Informative video.

Lousy camera work

I'm now feeling drunk because of motion sickness.

I was there. I had a great time. Thanks. Looking forward to Field Day 2015. AE7XQ

are we in Ireland

Excellent advice regarding the use of a safety device (e.g. chain) when operating a crank-up tower. As you mentioned, if the cable should fail, the resulting collapse could be not only dangerous to your expensive equipment, but also anyone who happens to be nearby. Great video!

Guys if u wanna save time straighten ur wheels and remove the steering colume . So much more space after that is done .

I must say, this video was entertaining.. 73 WB7ELX

The Tarheel Model 200A HP is what I have. Mine the bottom has bolts like yours but the center section is 8 rivets. I think my problem was air was getting into coil form letting moist air in then condensation got the screw section to rust after a few years of storage. After cleaning up the screw with a wire brush I'm going to try white lithium grease on the screw and make sure I exercise the antenna to it's limits once in a while to hopefully keep it lubed and know if corrosion is creeping in again. Did you reapply a lube on the screw section? Thanks for posting the video.

Great Video, it did help alot, got the same car and the same problem. I just dont undestand why this Blazers have this problemas, i got the same probleam fixed 4 years ago and now again. But this time im doin it my self coz few years it cost me lot of $$ thank for the Video.

glad it help you and save some money . take care,

Thank you, video helped

@29:21 u stoped filming and that is what we needed to see! We needed to see it go back in.

this sorta helped...the lighting was fine.