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What the brand of the winch?

You have no idea how helpful this video was to me. I was back cuttin in no time. Thanks so much.

Nicely done! Thanks for showing the whole process! Most people don’t record how difficult it really is.

Hi Robert. My wife has been inquiring about your scissor lift repair. Thank you for your posts! They have been amazingly helpful. We just bought the same exact lift as you and have been learning things the hard way. Do you have the part number for the new joystick? I bought new batteries and we were finally able to unload it from the trailer. It goes up and down perfect. But when we finally got it off the trailer, you could steer it and it would only go in reverse. Left it set and charge and then went to check and now it will only go forward and only turn left. Any suggestions I would greatly appreciate! Thank you again for posting this video!

Did you have an issue it will go backwards and then it won’t but it goes forward. It would turn left and then stopped going forward and won’t turn right. It keeps changing. Any pointers on where I should start? Joystick?

I know that this is a older video but I have this same lift and was wondering if you knew anything about the onboard charger ? Does it shut off by itself when fully charged? Or do I have to unplug after so many hours ty

Hi Robert I'm in Australia and have just bought the exact same model lift as yours, SPL2660. I've tried everywhere to get a repair manual for it with no success. Do you have a copy you would sell me. Cheers Mal Whittaker

Holy crap how many kids did you breed? Smh

Great video. I just watched a guy before this video and he was drilling and using an air hammer 😂.

Nice save. Most people would have scraped both rims.

Calcium chloride is the devil's work when it comes to rims.

Kind of crazy how long this video took you lol Nice to know it's held up well though!

I need that same kit what’s the part number on that kit or where can I get it

I bought the same on Amazon for a 128.00$ Canadian. Sorry for you

thanks, great video, My D6 is a replica of this one and it abruptly stopped getting fuel. I think after watching you video i now have enough info to fix this.

With better filming and instructions, this could have been a very informative video. Camera angles, lighting and better instructions and you would off had a hit.

9:22 fk it im getting the saws all out 🤣

I don't think you know how to use the word splice properly

Like many, I have this model, which ran well for two years, then began bogging down when I tried to go full throttle. Some aftermarket carbs work, some don't. Would oyou please share what model you bought, and where? Thanks!

No logro concentrarme con el niño cruzándose todo el rato pilucho😡😣🤦🏼‍♀️

What were the symptoms? Mine is flopping around too...i believe i have a bad bearing inside this axle disconnect. I get a vibration/shake felt at highway speeds only...I heard horror stories about taking these out as sometimes they get stuck to the oil pan

I replaced the one on my '04 TB. The CV axle came apart just like yours did. The easiest way to get the disconnect out is remove the bolts holding it to the oil pan, then get underneath the truck. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the plastic skid plate on. You now have a good view of the bottom of the disconnect. Gently tap one side of the disconnect upwards, then the other side. You're breaking the corrosion bond that holds it to the oil pan. It won't move very far in either direction, but it doesn't have to. Now tap the disconnect out towards the fender just a bit, then tap it back in. Tap it out a little farther, then back in. Repeat this process a few times, going farther each time, and it will pop right out. It probably took longer to type this than it did to tap the disconnect out. Trying to pry it out with a pry bar is a good way to break it, as on of your other commenters found out. 🤬

What happened to the fender? Did the wheel fall off?

I just replaced that axle and what a pain. I do get a rumble from time to time that stops when I stop the truck. I am guessing watching your video it may be the actuator. I have an oil leak hitting it. I would retorque the hub but to 103 fps Or it tears up the wheel hub.

Seal part number plis…

Mine was cracked injector o-ring…

Kind of an annoying spot to mount it.. right in the way of the lift pump.

Hi you have diagram electric scissor lift spl 26-60?

Try Clevite

Need to get him a video game of rebuilding a Cummins engine

Hard to find in CO

Ruby Red Pearl

Very cool video. I have a question: i m interested in the problems that could happen with the baler during the baling season with focus on the idler sprocket/with bearings ? How often do you change them? What is the main cause of idler sprocket failure? Thanks

Always make sure you buy parts that come complete....with bolts and gaskets included.😂

Do you know the starter model number? Got one with a pony motor and i would like to change it over to electric starter

going thru this now, getting p030X where X is 1-6. somehow 6 cyl misfire plus p1399. never see evidence of this except on low rough idle, dumped bg44k into my tank to clean that shit. replacing sensors as per BundyGarage video ( the other cause of this is heat soak issue due to dead sensors) hope its not my injectors...great video tho

I'm in Australia and recently purchased an older "Upright" X20N scissor. The up and down toggle switch on the chassis only works for down because someone has disconnected the "up" wire from the toggle switch and taped it off. Not sure why, but with the switch in the rest position, it still has 24v on it. Is that normal ? I don't know much about scissor lifts but mine is old school, no electronic boards etc and is wired like yours with a terminal block. When I toggle the switch upward, I can hear a faint click which is weird. It's like it's trying to engage a relay but how is this possible if the up wire is disconnected ? I cannot find a wiring diagram to enable me to put that wire back to where it should be and I'm not sure where to go with it really. Any idea or do you know if you can find me a wiring diagram ? The owner's manual that I did find for a supposed X20N has a completely different control system with PCBs etc so it's of no use except for most of the mechanical stuff.

Thank you for making this video. I took on a N14 with similar issue and it’s been a long while since I’ve done one and watching you navigate through it helped me remember. I can tell you have not done this before but you got in there and figured it out so a big kudos you sir.

Where did you get the joystick replacement? I have been looking for one for weeks but can't seem to find it. Nor the part number.

Love the content Needs more energy

Just did this with an Eastern Cat on my 2013 Outback. Some things to watch out for.... First replacement the Catalyst Substrate inside was too close to the bung and the AF sensor literally hit it and dented it - WATCH FOR THAT. Second replacement came, the sensors were not hitting the substrate, BUT like this guy.. the manifold mounts were off by a cm or so and would not fit. Frustrating to say the least. But after watching this video I decided to use my spare tire car jack in the trunk to push the 2 flanges back to spec which worked wonderfully. I used a jack stand leg to get extra clearance for the jack to hit both flanges and continue to push it out. Without something the car jack would not have enough clearance to reach each of the flanges to push it out. Hope that helps someone. This job can be a nightmare.

Saw your post on The DIY HVAC Guy and was wondering who you used in Tulsa. We're about to start getting quotes.

I need help where you at?

Where you got the shop ?

Come help me fix mine!

Hello, the tub is most likely not 1964, I believe Kohler had stopped CFT production at WWII. If they resumed, there would have been a simplification of the design. I have seen very few 1940s clawfoots, most of the later ones having very simple foot designs and not seen any footed tubs past the 1950s until remanufacturing in the 1990s.. The 64-5 indicates that it is 5 1/2' long. I'm guessing from the foot mounting and pattern that yours is probably 1930s. Also, foot casting quality is generally fairly coarse, pitted and bumps-only the expensive models at the time came with usually nickel plated feet. Most manufactures cut corners on production to keep costs down (like today). I worked in architectural salvage for 25+ years. Regardless of the age, it looks great and makes your bathroom!

Do you think the removal and installation would be the same for the rear doors ? Thanks

Thanks u saved me $1500 from the shop it took me 4hrs but it was worth it

WD40 on th bolts

Please replay me