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@@sreykimsear I think that is okay - just be careful when you transfer your tree outside and don’t plant it until your area is past the point of sudden freezes. Try to expose it to the cooler temperatures gradually. You will really enjoy this tree!

@NWMapleBonsai thanks so much

Thanks for the suggestion! The quality does seem to make a difference. 👍

I think it is about 50% if you leave it alone over the winter. The one thing I would say is to make sure the moss does not get water logged. You may need to try to squeeze out the excess water in the spring. Good luck!

I’m glad you found that helpful. Remember if you have seedlings that are sensitive to heat to be careful if your plants are in direct sunlight as the wire can heat up quite a bit in the sun!

Thanks! If you mean the tree itself, I suggest a well draining location. Mine has done well in full sunlight in the Pacific Northwest which is why it has grown so large. In partial shade, it may not grow as big. I really love this tree. If you mean the seeds, grow them in shade or partial shade and keep watered in the summer or the seedlings will quickly dry out and die.

Possibly… are you located in the US?

@NWMapleBonsai Yes, located in US. Southwestern states.

Thanks for the nice comment! I appreciate you! 🙏🙏🙏

For the cuttings, I use perlite with or without fine sifted pine bark. For young plants I use a mixture of potting soil, pine barks and perlite. I suggest not reusing old soil.

Sorry to hear that. You are right! The bins need to be kept in full shade.

Thanks for your comment! I have not used scoria but I have tried black and red lava rock. I don’t personally feel that it is helpful in my area, maybe displacing materials that hold moisture in the summer. But I like it for top dressing succulents and cacti pots. 😁

Thanks for the sub! 😀🙏

It’s hard to say because the variety and the weather conditions make this different. I don’t think I have seen the first sign of roots sooner than 8 weeks. By mid-August, you should be seeing a fair amount of roots if it is going to work out. Make sure to squeeze out any excess water if you see any accumulating in the first 2-6 weeks. You want to see condensation droplets on the inside of the plastic, not water logged sphagnum moss.

@@NWMapleBonsai Thank you for the tips.

Thanks for your reply and thoughts! Great comment!

Thanks!😀

The plastic bins provide some insulation. In the Pacific Northwest, the temps go below freezing only a few days. You could move them into your garage or greenhouse if you have one.

Good luck! The method works best on seedlings about 6 to 12 inches tall with the stem about the diameters of a bamboo barbecue skewer. Once the stem gets thicker, you will probably need to wire in the traditional way of wrapping the straight wire around stem. 🤞🍁

Thanks! I appreciate your comment! I’ve had reliable success in with cuttings from Kiyohime and Murasaki Kiyohime. If you take a look at my videos using plastic storage bins, you can see the method I use. This year I had over 80% rooting of a number of different cultivars. I hope your cuttings take! I’m sure vermiculite will work.🤞😀

In a shaded area - zero direct sunlight. Thanks for your question! 😀🍁

@@NWMapleBonsai thank you ☺️, I have a little princess tree and a Katsura I wish to take cuttings from so I will try this method, thanks again

I’m in Seattle, WA. It is now in zone 9a since 2023 - similar to northern Florida, apparently. It used to be 8b in 2012. We get a lot of clouds and rain as you expect and my area has sandy soil on a grade that drains well - all good for Japanese Maples.

Thanks! 🐿️

🐿️🐿️🐿️

For now just for my own collection. But maybe in the future? 😁

😢

Thanks for the question. I don’t open the bin to let it breathe for that purpose but I do take off the lid occasionally to remove any dead leaves and check for pests (sometimes slugs will sneak in). I may experiment next year with a fungicidal spray but have not used it so far. My results have been good this year with 80%-90% of the cuttings rooted. I’m working on an update video. 😁

@@NWMapleBonsai you mentioned taking the cuttings in like June or July… Then leaving them in the tote tell “the leaves fall off” in fall. So is that the point that you’re expecting roots and/or what do you then do with them in the fall?

I just leave the sphagnum moss on so I don’t disturb the roots. When I repot in a year or two, I usually remove some of the moss and recycle it if it is still in reasonable shape. Thanks for the good question!

I think it would- the perlite would absorb any fluid.

Great comment! Thanks!

Covering with moss or substrate is a great idea. But it is amazing how those little white bits are able to sneak their way up to the surface! 😁

This is a super detailed and informative comment! You must have either thought about this before or are an electrician! Thanks much!! 💯💯💯

Thanks for the great feedback! 🙏🙏 Also take a look at one of the other comments about coloring the perlite with clay dissolved in water. I haven’t tried this yet but it seems like a great idea.

Awesome. Tried dyeing my perlite recently with coffee and it turned out pretty well. I left it in pretty concentrated coffee for over 3 days. And the outcome was great! Thank you! Looking forward to more videos!@@NWMapleBonsai

Thanks!👍🍁

This is super good info! I’ll definitely give this a try! Thanks! 💯💯💯

I agree. I’ve also found that if you soak the perlite first before mixing it in with other materials, you get less floating and it keeps the dust down.

I completely agree with you about cuttings. That’s exactly what I do. I don’t believe perlite dissolves since it is a mineral. You can minimize the floating somewhat if you soak the perlite in water first before you mix it in with other materials. That increases the density of the particles. However they will want to float again if the mix is allowed to dry out.

Great comment! Thanks!😀

You’re saying to soak the bark in water for 4 months then use the water to color the perlite? Have you tried it? Does it work? Seems like it wouldn’t be as dark (or fast).

@NWMapleBonsai I haven't tried it on perlite but I have used it as a wood stain before. So with that information you could imagine how it might be very successful as it's an acid stain kinda how spaghetti always stains tupperware.

I also use perlite to root cuttings and it seems to work well. I add 20%-40% pine bark fines to it. Safe T Sorb sounds like a potentially good substrate. Looks like it is 100% fired calcined Montmorillonite clay. And very inexpensive compared to akadama. In the range of $10-$20 for 50 lbs.

Thanks for this comment. It prompted me to look into this. There has been some research done by North Carolina State University showing that although perlite sources commonly used in North America do contain fluoride, the fluoride will quickly leach out via watering. The researchers concluded no adverse effects even on plants known to be susceptible to fluoride toxicity. So not to worry. In the course of looking into this, I found a interesting source with more info on perlite. The most interesting is that it is categorized as "nuisance dust" with less than 1% quartz so is largely harmless to the lungs. Also it has a low CEC (cation exchange capacity) meaning that it does not hold nutrients as well as other potting media like akadama. Sources: fluoridealert.org/wp-content/pesticides/perlite.fluoride.levels.htm www.gardenmyths.com/perlite-myths-gardens/

It is a tenor ukulele 😁🌴

Why not just fill your pot with perlite and put a thin top layer of your chosen soil or a bit of sphagnum moss covered with green moss. No dying or runaway perlite chunks.

I thinks that is true. I guess it depends on how long you want to wait and whatever seems to get the results you want in any specific situation 👍

where i am it rains quite a bit and perlite always turns a REALLY green color due to algae. Doing one bag with coffee isnt too much to ask for in my opinion

@Treebeardbonsai Glad you found the video helpful! Pre-soaking the perlite before sizing it in with other materials can help a little with the floating problem. Where do you get your pumice from? Thanks!

It is possible to create a bonsai out of most Japanese Maples. But the osakazuki may not give you the softer effect that you may see in other varieties. It is a strong grower so the internodes are long and the leaves are large. Some of the seedlings may be better candidates if you can find any with smaller leaves but still retaining the red fall color. 🍁

Will do! Thanks!🙏

Thanks! Glad you like it!👍

LOL 😁

Thanks! Drop baby drop! 😁